picked up a craftsman 5" vise today

[mtesh73]

craigslist find for $40. seemed like a good deal, what says the group? i am planning on restoring it. any tips and tricks beyond what is listed in the major restoration threads on GJ? anything i should pay attention to for this model in particular? is there a way to find out the year of manufacture? i am pretty sure the 506 series was made by columbian.

thanks!!

 

[drivesitfar]

it looks like you have all the parts and i hope under that terrible grey paint job there are not any cracks or welds hiding.

here is what it might have looked like when it was closer to new. i'm also including a picture of one of the nicest restorations I've seen. sorry i haven't restored this vise so don't have any tips other than when you are using it always try to cover the open screw with a rag and maybe rag or towel over the vise when not in use if your garage or shop is dusty. those open screws are usually dry to so keep it oiled or greased whichever is your preference.

good luck and if no other issues than a terrible paint job you did fine at $40 for a good light duty vise.

 

[1982fxr]

pretty sure those were made by Fuller. Some are USA, some are Japan. Craftsman name is more popular than Fuller, I have a Fuller 5" identical to yours. Might be a blessing that someone already got the factory red off for you, cuz it is a mother to get off on some of them.

edit: oh yeah, good deal @ $40.

 

[jakemac]

The 506 prefix on the model number is definitely Columbian. Fuller isn't listed as a Sear's vendor. Perhaps Fuller used Columbian as a supplier for their vises and what you actually have is a Columbian that was rebranded ?
http://vintagemachinery.org/craftsman/manufacturers.aspx?sort=1

 

[zkling]

Check the nut retainers, they can crack if someone tries to use it as a press. Otherwise Nice vise for the price.

 

[mtesh73]

great info gents, thank you! i like the polished picture, but would be afraid to use it. LOL. i think i may have a family member sandblast it, if that doesnt pan out i will probably wire brush it. some have mentioned not to use the cup brush but a wire disc brush. any other (efficient) method for getting the thing down to bare metal? i am thinking of painting it a metallic blue, like polar's reed in the "vises of GJ" thread or maybe the green hammertone that people have been using on the wilton restorations. once i get going i will post some pictures.
thanks again.

 

[drivesitfar]

since the grey paint is over the original red that was mentioned that might be a bit difficult to get off would you be willing to try Electrolysis?

here is a thread i was involved in asking a ton of questions because i haven't started a tank yet, but hopefully will soon after getting all the answers to my questions. if you are just a bit handy and a bit careful it will not only take your vise down to bare steel, but will work for other projects in the future.

good luck

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=electrolysis

 

[mtesh73]

wow, i just got through that electolysis thread, i can see myself now with no eyebrows.... LOL. pretty interesting. i may give it a shot. i think i might track down some boric acid first and dunk it for a few days and see how that works. stay tuned.

since the grey paint is over the original red that was mentioned that might be a bit difficult to get off would you be willing to try Electrolysis?

here is a thread i was involved in asking a ton of questions because i haven't started a tank yet, but hopefully will soon after getting all the answers to my questions. if you are just a bit handy and a bit careful it will not only take your vise down to bare steel, but will work for other projects in the future.

good luck

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237752&highlight=electrolysis

 

[zkling]

Use a chemical stripper, it will take the paint right off. The Jasco paint and epoxy remover is dang near equivalent to the old aircraft stripper and much easier to find (IE, at lowes for ~$8). Just use caution when using.

The other methods are more for removing a combo of rust and paint. Since yours looks to be heavy on the paint, I'd start with the chemical stripper. Or if you know anyone with a hot caustic tank, or even have the guts to do it yourself. But for one vise I wouldn't go through the hassle.

 

[mtesh73]

ok, i can pick that up tomorrow. i wasnt sure it would be up to the task.

Use a chemical stripper, it will take the paint right off. The Jasco paint and epoxy remover is dang near equivalent to the old aircraft stripper and much easier to find (IE, at lowes for ~$8). Just use caution when using.

The other methods are more for removing a combo of rust and paint. Since yours looks to be heavy on the paint, I'd start with the chemical stripper. Or if you know anyone with a hot caustic tank, or even have the guts to do it yourself. But for one vise I wouldn't go through the hassle.

 

[Fretters]

Or if you know anyone with a hot caustic tank, or even have the guts to do it yourself. But for one vise I wouldn't go through the hassle.

I've been testing out a mild caustic solution for the last few days, (I've avoided it like the plague upto just, but decided to stop being a *****), and it seems to be working well on paint and grease so far. Not heated, just water in a container with some caustic soda added. The body pieces of that little Baugh & Moss vice got dunked in there to shift the old paint which electrolysis wouldn't shift.

 

[zkling]

ok, i can pick that up tomorrow. i wasnt sure it would be up to the task.

It will take off Remington's goofy epoxy finish from the 70's, it will take off anything. I usually clean the item of grease. Then really glop it on thick, let sit ~10 minutes, but DON'T LET IT DRY, then in a bucket of warm water and a stiff brush scrub the loosened paint off. Let dry and examine. You may have to repeat application in spots. Just make sure to wear gloves and glasses. It is very nasty.

I've been testing out a mild caustic solution for the last few days, (I've avoided it like the plague upto just, but decided to stop being a *****), and it seems to be working well on paint and grease so far. Not heated, just water in a container with some caustic soda added. The body pieces of that little Baugh & Moss vice got dunked in there to shift the old paint which electrolysis wouldn't shift.

Slowly add lye (sodium hydroxide, not sure what they call it over there ) to a steel container of COLD water. Stir to dissolve, then bring to a slow boil and place in parts. If you've got the stones for this, next up is hot bluing.

****Just a note for anyone not familiar with hot caustics. This is extremely dangerous. Will burn holes through your skin. Never add caustic soda to hot water, always mix cold, THEN heat. Also note it will dissolve aluminum and other non ferrous metals, so don't go putting your aluminum xyz in there and wonder where it went.

 

[bigcaddy]

craigslist find for $40. seemed like a good deal, what says the group? i am planning on restoring it. any tips and tricks beyond what is listed in the major restoration threads on GJ? anything i should pay attention to for this model in particular? is there a way to find out the year of manufacture? i am pretty sure the 506 series was made by columbian.

thanks!!

The 506 prefix on the model is USA made, 391 is the Japanese prefix

 

[dumper]

just my opinion, but I had a vise just like that (5") and repainted it with Walmart red spray paint. It was my everday working vise, so no trophy paint job necessary. Held up very well. Notice I did not paint areas of the vise that I think should remain bare metal...as in the original paint job. They are very good vises in this price range. I sold it for $80 to a very happy customer

 

[dumper]

courtesy of GJ member Outlaw, scroll to the 1960 entry. post #5, for a picture of this vise. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149519&highlight=Craftsman+sears+vise

 

[DHS]

Nice score, it will serve you well.

I recently picked up the same vise and I already had its little brother. It seems to be well built and I will probably swap it out with my 3.5" Columbian machinist vise.

 

[marty_p]

Great score for a great price!

 

[zkling]

Here is one that I am working on. Cup brush in angle grinder to knock the rust off. Flap wheel to smooth. Used paint stripper to remove the paint. One application. Had I not had the paint stripper on hand it would have gone in the tank. Still trying to decide what to do for final. Full polish or paint. As you can see there are a few nooks and crannies that need to be cleaned out. But otherwise the stripper did a great job as usual removing the paint.

Out of order, last pic is before. Had to resize as it wouldn't load initially.

 

[dumper]

Zkling, do you mean full polish, like in the photo in post #2, above? How do you that, exactly?

 

[zkling]

Zkling, do you mean full polish, like in the photo in post #2, above? How do you that, exactly?

Yes, I'm trying to decide if I want to polish the bare casting and then do the letters in red. Or paint the vise in red and do the letters in black?

As for the polish, I'm not sure how that person does it, but I'd use just a succession of semi loose buffs and polishing compounds. You can see from the pics of that guys ebay listings that he doesn't take it down till they are smooth, the divots are still present. You just have to use a bit of caution to not get carried away and round over corners.

 

[mtesh73]

just my opinion, but I had a vise just like that (5") and repainted it with Walmart red spray paint. It was my everday working vise, so no trophy paint job necessary. Held up very well. Notice I did not paint areas of the vise that I think should remain bare metal...as in the original paint job. They are very good vises in this price range. I sold it for $80 to a very happy customer

cool, it seems pretty hefty. cant wait to get it cleaned up.

Nice score, it will serve you well.

I recently picked up the same vise and I already had its little brother. It seems to be well built and I will probably swap it out with my 3.5" Columbian machinist vise.

thanks, i wasnt sure if i should have pulled the trigger or kept lurking on CL to find something else. a bird in the hand........etc.

It will take off Remington's goofy epoxy finish from the 70's, it will take off anything. I usually clean the item of grease. Then really glop it on thick, let sit ~10 minutes, but DON'T LET IT DRY, then in a bucket of warm water and a stiff brush scrub the loosened paint off. Let dry and examine. You may have to repeat application in spots. Just make sure to wear gloves and glasses. It is very nasty.

alright i will pick some of that stuff up today and give it a whirl. i have used regular paint removers before with varied results. i guess it depends on the surface and type of paint you are trying to strip.

what is the disassembly process with this particular vise?

thanks to everyone.

 

[mtesh73]

just my opinion, but I had a vise just like that (5") and repainted it with Walmart red spray paint. It was my everday working vise, so no trophy paint job necessary. Held up very well. Notice I did not paint areas of the vise that I think should remain bare metal...as in the original paint job. They are very good vises in this price range. I sold it for $80 to a very happy customer

i agree 100%, looks much nicer and cleaner too.

Here is one that I am working on. Cup brush in angle grinder to knock the rust off. Flap wheel to smooth. Used paint stripper to remove the paint. One application. Had I not had the paint stripper on hand it would have gone in the tank. Still trying to decide what to do for final. Full polish or paint. As you can see there are a few nooks and crannies that need to be cleaned out. But otherwise the stripper did a great job as usual removing the paint.

Out of order, last pic is before. Had to resize as it wouldn't load initially.

i would love it leave it bare. any issues with accelerated rust? or is just wiping it down with WD-40 or another solvent enough

 

[drivesitfar]

WD 40 works ok, but dries out quickly so you'll have to apply it pretty often to keep rust at bay. Johnson paste wax in the yellow can works better. I've also heard kerosene and mineral spirits works and i think i'll try that soon because the wax isn't a permanent fix either.

after reading the thread on the Electrolysis tank i bet you got enough information at least not to hurt yourself and probably not enough power to do much other than fry the power source. it does work because I've seen the results and before joining GJ i wouldn't have considered making one and using that method.

give it a try and PM me or others on that thread if you have any questions if you need help.

 

[mtesh73]

WD 40 works ok, but dries out quickly so you'll have to apply it pretty often to keep rust at bay. Johnson paste wax in the yellow can works better. I've also heard kerosene and mineral spirits works and i think i'll try that soon because the wax isn't a permanent fix either.

after reading the thread on the Electrolysis tank i bet you got enough information at least not to hurt yourself and probably not enough power to do much other than fry the power source. it does work because I've seen the results and before joining GJ i wouldn't have considered making one and using that method.

give it a try and PM me or others on that thread if you have any questions if you need help.

will do. thank you.

 

[jakemac]

The (very) "old school" way of preserving metal tools and equipment was to coat it in a thin coat of boiled linseed oil, let it get slightly tacky, then buff it out by hand and let it dry. Several layers can be built up over time, and will need to be redone periodically as conditions dictate.