cordless vs. air impact wrench

[hosz]

Anyone ever use a cordless impact to remove bolts rusted on to the strut assembly or engine cross-member?

Do they have enough torque to spin off a rusted on bolt or will I have to go the air route?

Is there a big difference in torque when comparing air to cordless? And I mean big like the difference in torque between a Smart clown car and a Z06.

I'm looking at the IR 20v when it comes out.

 

[Simplespeed]

Yes, big difference but im sure people will say there is no difference and even say that snap on cordless is stronger than air lol. For the record, i want snap on cordless stuff, but its extra stuff not the main tools.

 

[admranger]

Depends.

I use an old snappy 12v cordless impact that has jury rigged (shaved off 'nub') 14.4v batteries in it to do my lug bolts on my cars. My IR 1/2" gun rips those bolts out without hesitation. The snappy takes a couple of hits to do it, but it's variable speed so nice to use when reinstalling the wheels.

My 1/4" cordless ratchet is worth it's weight in gold when you have a thousand little 8mm headed screws to take out of the under panels of the car. No need for air there.

However, unless you get the bigger battery powered guns, you aren't going to get the big nuts/bolts out or the rusted ones out. I have both air and battery powered tools as they each have their place while working on the cars.

 

[shoturtle]

Right now an air impact has more power. But then new 1/2 brushless is going to have a ton of punch to break rusted bolts without a problem. The current 1/2 will break rusted bolts, just not as fast as air. But like mention, you need a big power pack.

 

[Danglerb]

For a job where the vehicle is going to be up on a lift, which means a shop and air, why not use air tools?

The way guys I know work is that they have a 1/2 air and 3/8 and 1/4 cordless.

 

[wreckerman5357]

For a job where the vehicle is going to be up on a lift, which means a shop and air, why not use air tools?

The way guys I know work is that they have a 1/2 air and 3/8 and 1/4 cordless.

This is the way to do it right here. I would never by a cordless 1/2" gun, but for a 3/8" and 1/4", cordless is the way to go. I don't use air ratchets anymore because the small 1/4" cordless impacts are powerful enough, quieter, and I don't need to lug a hose around to run one.

 

[hosz]

This is for my home. I'm not a tech and don't have access to a shop. I would rather get an air compressor and air tools but have very limited space. If a cordless has the torque to bust off rusted 20-24mm bolts then I get to save space and have a tool I can bring to the Pick n' Pull.

 

[6-Speed]

My Craftsman C3 19.2V 1/2" impact has no problem removing lug nuts torqued to 80 lb-ft. Haven't tried it on the Mustang yet ... those are set to 100 lb-ft, but I suspect it will take them off as well. Worked good removing swaybar end link nuts too. Might be a different story with rusted bolts and large suspension fasteners though. For those, I'll reach for my air tools or breaker bar, but I have to admit it's hard to beat the convenience and speed of cordless tools.

 

[Dust]

If you have easy access to air hook-ups, cordless 1/2 isn't really worth the money. If you do a lot of mobile repair work or no easy access to air, then it's worth it.

A cordless 3/8 is a worthwhile investment, though I'd also back it up with an air 3/8. Cordless 3/8 comes in real handy when doing dash removals.

1/4? I'd rather just have a 1/4 hex electric screwdriver, or maybe an impact driver with a socket adapter. I do a LOT of trim work, and my little Black and Decker 1/4 hex screw gun has saved me hours, if not WEEKS of work over the three years I've owned it.

 

[GSteg]

Yes, big difference but im sure people will say there is no difference and even say that snap on cordless is stronger than air lol.

There is a difference, but the Snap On cordless gun actually has more torque than most think. I have one and it puts my former IR 231C to shame. No, it's not as powerful as my MG725 or older 2135qtimax, but it's one of the strongest 1/2" drive (cordless and air) I have encountered. About the only thing it has trouble with is crank pulley bolts. Unless you get into large vehicles, rarely will you find a bolt that it won't remove on a passenger car or light truck.

 

[aldworth33]

We use a snap on 18v cordless at work for removing all the street sweeper brushes in the yard so we don't need to rig up air lines all the way outside and in my experience they are good but my IR air impact gun pisses allover it in terms of taking of stubborn bolts, get a really good air impact gun for the price of a cordless plus battery ect. Just don't restrict yourself to only looking at snap on

 

[shampoop]

Biggest deciding factors.

Even the super powerful and super expensive new SO and IR electric guns are still much larger and heavier than their cheap air powered counterparts.

Reasons to buy electric - In a location where an air compressor won't work

Reasons to buy air - Air impacts last forever, electric batteries die and are very expensive, max power, minimum size/weight, once you have an air compressor you can have other air powered tools.

And as far as space goes, vertical compressors have a very tiny footprint and don't take up much room at all. For the price of the electric guns that have as much power as air guns do, you can buy a compressor, accessories, and gun, and maybe even save money. I bought my 120v oil lube belt driven compressor that works perfect for $50 on craigslist.

and have a tool I can bring to the Pick n' Pull.

The only thing you really need an impact gun for at a pick n' pull are axle nuts and crank pulleys.

 

[aldworth33]

Snap in go halfs on a new battery if yours eventually dies iirc they are 40pound so probably around 60 dollars at a guess and you only need to pay half so not too bad

 

[Danglerb]

This is for my home. I'm not a tech and don't have access to a shop.

Why are you thinking about a $600+ cordless?

No air compressor at all makes a lot of auto jobs ****.

Cheap pancake compressors will run air tools fine, for brief periods.

Another $100 buys any one of many decent 1/2 air impacts that will out perform cordless up to $350 or so.

Another $100 will buy a 1/2 Craftsman C3 that will manage 90% or better of your impact needs without firing up the compressor.

 

[hosz]

Why are you thinking about a $600+ cordless?

I saw prices in the $450 range for the IR W7150. If the IR actually sells for that price it is doable for me. The SO CT6850 is out of my price range.

I need a cordless since I live in an apartment and keep my car in an unsecured parking garage. Housing is very expensive where I live and housing options around here for middle class people like me who aren't sleeping with the boss are to: (1) rent an apartment; or (2) buy a house and commute 2+ hours/day. I literally have to wheel all my tools out of my apartment whenever I need to work on my car.

Before I spend almost $500 (which is still a lot for me), I want to make sure I'm getting a tool that will be able to break loose rusted bolts, including suspension pieces, on a car that has been through 16+ northeast winters.

 

[karl1672]

I have the Milwaukee M18 cordless 1/2 impact. Paid $299 from HD on-line, plus got an ebate rebate. So far, for me, plenty of power for lugs, exhaust, etc.

Prices are all over the place so it pays to shop around for it.

 

[CountryboyFX4]

I have the Dewalt 18V and got a steal on it new for $180 with the 2 XRP batteries! It takes off my F150's lugs off at 140 ft lbs! I like it a lot and lasts a while on a charge! Also have the entire Dewalt 12V max system with 3/8" impact, screw gun, drill, 1/4" impact, and flash light! I love the 3/8" impact! puts out 96 ft lbs and will remove the wheel studs on a lot of VW's that come into the shop! 1/2" is the way to go though! Look online for a good deal on one! Sears sells them on sale sometimes! Also look on eBay or Craigslist!

 

[BMEdoc]

I'll throw in another vote for the 18V dewalt... I had one before I bought my air compressor, and I never ran across a bolt that it wouldn't break loose. If air is out of the question, or you simply want both options, it is a solid deal.

I'll say that I was amazed at the power that thing has. Cordless products have come a long way in the past 5-10 years...

 

[shoturtle]

The bosch 1/2 18v is another good impact gun with allot of power.

 

[freeskier]

For a job where the vehicle is going to be up on a lift, which means a shop and air, why not use air tools?

The way guys I know work is that they have a 1/2 air and 3/8 and 1/4 cordless.

thats the way to go. a good 1/2 inch air impact is essential. 3/8th and 1/4in are fine in batt

 

[KinzeMech]

There's nothing wrong with a 1/2 battery impact. it will not be as powerful as an average mid-range 1/2 air gun, but power is not always what you need.

1/2 in air, and 3/8 in battery is an alright idea, but a good strong 1/2 in air, and a 1/2 in electric has comparable strength to a 3/8, but you only have to get sockets in one drive size.

 

[GSMotorrad]

a 1/2 in electric has comparable strength to a 3/8, but you only have to get sockets in one drive size.

This. I did not have any sockets in 1/2-inch drive at all, and no impact sockets either. I was able to get two birds stoned at once by just buying all 1/2-inch Impact Sockets, and a compact cordless impact with the 1/2-inch square-anvil, and an (impact rated) adapter to go down to 1/4-inch hex bits. Skipped 3/8-inch drive all together as far as impacting - just 1/2-inch drive impact sockets and 1/4-inch hex insert-bits, and I'm happy with the consequences.

The 1/2-inch impact sockets only go down to 10mm, but I figure if I explode a chrome 8mm socket, the bolt was torqued down way too hard to begin with. If that ever happens I'll hunt down the smallest 1/2-inch drive impact sockets.

The entire 3/8-inch drive is completely redundant, and a cost that can be avoided, but it's also been my most used drive-size in the last 18 years. It's got that nice "hand-tool-size" for anything bigger than the small stuff.

So, it worked out better to quickly differentiate visually, that all 1/2-inch sockets are for power tools and they're black oxide, and all chrome sockets are for hand-tools - they're only 3/8 and 1/4-inch drive. (The 1/2 drive shallow sockets are GP DUO's, so they go both ways)

 

[Trey T]

Yes! why not?

When you compare either one, you look at these specs:

-RPM
-Torque
-Blow or impact rate (per min)

...

Do they have enough torque to spin off a rusted on bolt or will I have to go the air route?

Is there a big difference in torque when comparing air to cordless? And I mean big like the difference in torque between a Smart clown car and a Z06.

I'm looking at the IR 20v when it comes out.

 

[diggerrick]

I still don't understand why there isn't a high torque corded impact gun available. You'd be dragging a cord around, but wouldn't have the cost and maintenance of a compressor. Ever try to run your air tools in a sub-freezing garage?

 

[bobcatdan]

If you are doing any shop work, a very basic need is an air compressor worth a damn. So with that logic, an air impact is my first choice. Now for full disclosure, I hate cords and use my cordless 98% of the time and it takes most stuff off. I still use my air impact where a lot of hammering is need it, it just works better and I don't care to beat my cordless where air is better suited. Also, I do not trust a cordless to tighten a wheel, I will recheck every but hand. I'm not saying I don't believe in proper torque of lug but nuts with an air impact, but I know it will consistently tighten bolts. Cordless tools are a luxury and for in shop use, a corded tool weather air or electric should be bought first, just my 2 ¢.

 

[scw1991]

what about a corded impact for a home workshop application? I picked up the Milwaukee 9072-20 1/2" impact gun recently and in my opinion it's every bit as good as my IR231C 1/2" air impact. The only downside is it's definitely larger in size.

 

[davesnothere]

My mg325 has noticeably more umph than my ct4410.

 

[alexmaclean]

Our shop wont spring for the cost of making sure we have dry air in the shop, sometimes the mist out of the back of our air tools looks like chainsaw smoke.

The tech next to me and I are both tool guys and each got a IR W7150. 20 volt 1/2 impact.

Neither of us has touched out air impact guns since. They match pound for pound the power of the IR 1/2 titanium guns that pretty much everyone uses.

Charged it fully before using it, done wheel swaps on 8 1/2ton trucks and 9 cars on that one charge and still have 1 of the 4 lights on the "gauge" lit up.

Plus several other jobs of taking 1 wheel off for various reasons. Bought it last Wednesday and still on that one charge. And if it does die, grab the other battery, and it takes about 30 mins to recharge.

Electric tools ain't what they used to be. I have mostly snapon tools, but all my air tools are IR, so I stuck with them for cordless tools. The Snapon gun has 200 ftlb less torque and was almost 200 bucks more expensive. No thanks.


Only thing to note, is the corless gun is half a pound heavier and a couple inches longer, so it is bigger to use, but not dragging the cord around is worth it.

 

[Trey T]

I have mixed feeling of owning either ones because they both work well. However, I try my best to optimize my tool collection and not just hoarding when there's a deal come along.

I use mostly air tools (1/2" impact wrench, 3/8" butterfly, 3/8" wrench, 1/4" wrench). The only cordless mechanic tool I have is the 1/4" hex impact driver for light duty stuff (taking off lug nuts w/ 1/2" attachment). I would love to own 1/2" M18 impact and 1/4" M12 wrench but those two tools overlap what I already have.

Optimization is the key for hobbyist.

 

[sberry]

I am with Bobcatcan on using battery impact on wheels. I do some but am kind of fussy and might check myself. With my air gun I can dial them right in.

 

[rice rocket]

With my air gun I can dial them right in.

Is this why I also lose a lug stud when I get new snow tires mounted at a shop?

Sorry, but torque wrench only for me after one or two impacts on the cordless when rotating or swapping.

 

[sberry]

Is this why I also lose a lug stud when I get new snow tires mounted at a shop?

Sorry, but torque wrench only for me after one or two impacts on the cordless when rotating or swapping.

No it isn't, its from someone with no training and never had how a bolt works explained to them.
In our shop its lightly lubed nuts, ran down slowly with 2 passes on the right setting while watching the socket rotate. I watch my men. Those tire store guys figure they are on a pit crew and zing them hot and dry usually leading to seizure before it clamps the wheel on.

 

[davesnothere]

I have mixed feeling of owning either ones because they both work well. However, I try my best to optimize my tool collection and not just hoarding when there's a deal come along.

I use mostly air tools (1/2" impact wrench, 3/8" butterfly, 3/8" wrench, 1/4" wrench). The only cordless mechanic tool I have is the 1/4" hex impact driver for light duty stuff (taking off lug nuts w/ 1/2" attachment). I would love to own 1/2" M18 impact and 1/4" M12 wrench but those two tools overlap what I already have.

Optimization is the key for hobbyist.

Pulling lugnuts off with a 1/4" hex driver? What the hell kinda driver is that?!

 

[92integra]

I vote for either a hf compressor and some used ir air tools.... or m18 fuel 1/2" m18 fuel 3/8ths and a m12 fuel hex and 1/4" m12 ratchet..... I would go with the later as you can go anywhere and do Damn near any job with them although the price tag is way higher

 

[K-Dog]

I have a battery 1/4 inch impact, and I FREAKING LOVE IT.
I am never going back to 1/4 inch air ratchet.

( granted I am not using that on suspension and stuff. )

 

[JD6619A]

I kind of use air and battery impacts equally, depends if im in the shop or on a service call or wrenching at home

im impressed with the CT7850 (recent purchase)
have the CT661 3/8" good for zipping off small fasteners

have an M12 3/8" impact and other M12 tools, had a 5 batts fail wont hold a charge in a years span, I'm thinking about replacing the actual batts in the m12 battery packs. not willing to spend 59.99 or more each for a battery pack at HD or whoever. doesn't sit well with me when the battery is as expensive as the tool and i've had 5 failures.

If I had my choice it would be SO better quality in the microlithium, batts last longer and are 7.2V vs 12 with as much power and endurance with the impacts. also the 14.4V fit in the 7.2s plus you can use the same charger for 7.2 and 14.4

The 7850, havent tried anything to compare it with, but im impressed

 

[rtole]

I bought the milwalkee m18 fuel 1/2. I finally found a bolt to tight for it after a month . It was a brake caliper bolt that needed a swivel. My ir air gun did it. I just did a job today on a 1/2 ton chevy k1500. Lower ball joints, upper control arms, both inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, torsion keys for a slight lift, and rear spring blocks for a little lift. My electric took off and put on everything, North Dakota is rusty and this pickup had 200,000 on it. It did this on friday mornings charge. I still had 2 battery bars left. It does just fine. Not quite as good as my ir 2135 ti............but dang close.
No, you cannot final tighten wheels with an impact and do it right. I have been in the tire business for 20 years. You can get close, you can get lucky, but you cannot get accurate, consistant results. Torque sticks can work........but they wear out quickly and your air supply must be consistant, and your gun in perfect shape. I have tested this to no end. Running them up with a gun, and final torque with a torque wrench is good. The nut must turn BEFORE the wrench clicks........or it could be to tight. I have had countless guys tell me their trigger finger is better than any torque wrench.......I have proved every single one of them wrong.

 

[DodgeMech]

I have the feeling that my two current air guns (an ir 232 cornwell) and a MG31 Snappy are way above anything electric has to offer in either class...more torque, lighter, and smaller than anything electric...

That said, I do have the SO 7.2 volt mini 3/8 impact/screwgun combo, a new 14.4 volt 3/8 electric air ratchet, an old 14.4 volt big 3/8 impact and a new Dewalt 20v Max impact/hammer drill combo...and i'm proud to say that today I finally had a chance to use all but the drill... they each have their own purpose and i'd recommend all but the mini impact to anyone needing electric cordless tools

 

[Barnabas]

I also have the Craftsman C3. I've loosened a lot of lug nuts with no problem. I think the torque maxes out about 100 pounds. Not great on heavily rusted bolts. I use a breaker bar to get rusty bolts started. I use mine more on the road than in the shop, and I don't have an air compressor on the road.

My Craftsman C3 19.2V 1/2" impact has no problem removing lug nuts torqued to 80 lb-ft. Haven't tried it on the Mustang yet ... those are set to 100 lb-ft, but I suspect it will take them off as well. Worked good removing swaybar end link nuts too. Might be a different story with rusted bolts and large suspension fasteners though. For those, I'll reach for my air tools or breaker bar, but I have to admit it's hard to beat the convenience and speed of cordless tools.

 

[6-Speed]

I also have the Craftsman C3. I've loosened a lot of lug nuts with no problem. I think the torque maxes out about 100 pounds. Not great on heavily rusted bolts. I use a breaker bar to get rusty bolts started. I use mine more on the road than in the shop, and I don't have an air compressor on the road.

More recently, I was able to easily remove strut fasteners torqued to 114 lb-ft with the C3 1/2". I'm confident it will do more, but when it came down to having to remove an axle nut, I just reached for the air impact. The C3 cordless works well for about 90% of my DIY projects where I would use an impact wrench.