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Sump Pump Freeze

Ray Hamel

New member
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Michigan
This winter my sump pump “exit pipe” froze which caused the pump to fail. I use a pedestal pump which lifts the water about 8 feet where it exits through the wall and dumps on the ground. The check valve is located about half way up.
From the conversation on this site I understand that the check valve should be used so I was thinking that I would make sure that the exit tube has no back angle and then install a fitting with a 1/4“ drain tube about 4 inches from the top. This would let the top 4 inches of water drain and still maintain a water column above the check valve.
Also, the new sump pump instruction manual indicated that no hole between the pump and check valve is required but I was thinking of drilling one anyway just to make sure no vacuumed is created there.
Does this thinking seem valid or should I approach the freezing problem in a different manner?
Thank you for any information.
Ray Hamel
 
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gdh33

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
100
Location
Northern Ontario, Canada
I installed the check valve around 2 feet above the floor level then have a drain line just above that that drains all the water between the check valve and outlet to outside. Just like you are thinking and it works great. I tried not drilling a hole just after the pump outlet but as soon as I dropped the pump in and tried it, it was air bound and not pumping. So I pulled it back out and drilled a hole and it has worked great for 2 years now. If you drill this hole, drill it as low as possible and have the hole aiming down. I accidentally drilled the hole somewhat aiming up and the water exiting this hole hits the sump wall and sprays a bit out of the sump hole. I live just north of you in Ontario, Canada.
 

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
There's pretty much no way to completely guarantee you won't freeze. You could come out the wall, 90 straight up at the wall, go up a little, 90 out, 90 down to where you dump. that way the only standing water in the line is from the 90 at the wall back in to the check valve.

Tommy
 

kbs2244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I will not freeze if it can drain dry.
Most likely you have the same size pipe from the pump to the exit point.
This is wrong.
You want the outside pipe to be larger and have an opening to air at the high point.
This will allow the outside water to drain downhill without any suction from the water in the inside pipe.
 
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Ray Hamel

New member
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Michigan
See "SUMP FREEZE 2" where I have posted a picture for "Mr.A" and a thank-you to everyone for helping with my question.
Have fun and be safe.
Ray Hamel
 

jaysberman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2008
Messages
77
Location
Pottstown,Pa
My plummer always drills a small hole just above the check valve that drains the stand pipe back into the pit.
Has worked well.
 

Bondo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
2,551
Location
Greenfield, Maine
Ayuh,.... I went with the KISS system,...

The pump pumps out, over 'bout 12', 'n up 'bout 5', where it goes outa the foundation, into a 4" pvc pipe, heavily pitched to the ditch by the driveway,...

No check-valve,...
Just a fairly Big sump pit,...

The line is either up-hill, or down, with the big air gap at the top,...
 
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