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Best sealant for the pictured project

737mechanic

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Jun 2, 2010
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I replaced the side boards on my garage because the original ones where rotted at the bottom which is a common problem. I used pressure treated boards for the new ones and once they dry out for a couple months I am going to remove them to completely apply a water proof coating for about the first 2 feet from the bottom up. I would like to seal the gap at the bottom with the strongest and longest lasting sealant there is. Other than regular polyurethane caulking what would any of you home experts recommend.

20140509_151550_mod_zps56d5e103.jpg
 
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wnstwolf

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Nov 7, 2007
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New York and PA
You state your going to remove it one they dry so nit sure how good you want to seal it now only to tear it apart?

My certainteed cement board came with matching caulk. It is awesome as stays a bit pliable to work with movement of the boards. Box stores don't carry it but supply houses do. I have it in that exact place you need it. 3 north winters and looks like day one.
 

southalabama

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Brewton AL
You might want to seal the end grain that is in contact with the concrete with ax epoxy. Then caulk any gaps to prevent water getting under it.
 

cdestuck

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Altoona, Pa
Not to sure I would seal that. First of all the original was probably just untreated pine, thus the rot. The bottom of anything is always the place that shouldn't be sealed to allow any moisture to escape. You shouldn't have any rot problem with this being PT. If anything, I might look at no rot/poly wood to use
 

drmarkr

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Tucson
Unless you seal the entire length of that trim, you dang sure don't want to completely seal the bottom?? Water is still going to collect behind it if you do. Seal the board (end grain for certain) with a clear marine epoxy, assuming you want it natural. With pigment if not. That would be my thought....
 

ADSR

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you guys have this one handled.

My work is done!
 

CT2012

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Northeast
Do you want it to look like wood (some sort of stain or clear), or are you eventually going to paint it?

Here's my $0.02: if the latter, just take it out (since you were already going to do that anyway) and put in similarly-sized Azek board (it's easily ripped to fit). Hand sand the edge with 220 to soften it a little, or use a router if you want something more specific. You'll never have to deal with rot again.

I'm doing exactly this to the trim around my garage door this spring. Am fuggin' sick of seeing trim get soft over time. No more.

Check with your paint supplier for the right kind of paint. With one Azek project, I used exterior Moorglo with no primer and it was fine, but I'm not really a fan of Moorglo. I had a gallon of it (in white semigloss) sitting around, so I used it. I think they've tinkered with the formula with that stuff in the past few years, because it seems to go grey in a couple of years. For the price (definitely not cheap!), it's just not worth it. That's been my experience, however.

On another project using Azek, I used the Behr premium stuff (forget the name, but it was semigloss white from Home Depot), 2 coats with no primer, and 3 years later it's still looking fantastic. Go figure. Just make sure the finish is nice & clean. I wiped mine down with acetone before painting.
 
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737mechanic

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Thanks guys. To clear up a couple things I left out. I do plan on sealing the entire length of the board once they dry enough to be removed and painted but I think if I seal the bottom it would be better to use something other then the polyurethane sealant I have for the length or would that be fine. Someone mentioned sikaflex, I used a sikaflex prodect to seal the expansion joint in my driveway and I am sold on that stuff. If they make a sealant that is thicker then that is probably what I will use.

There is also a finishing board that goes against the door over the board in the picture but I am not going to worry about installing that until I remove, paint and reinstall the boards.

s10xtremist
Where does a guy get those finishing boards you posted. I like them but have never seen any.
 

CT2012

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The PVC trim with built-in vinyl or rubber weatherstip?

Any good lumberyard should have 'em, and Home Depot sells 'em, look in the vertical rack where Azek is sold as well as cheaper version in the PVC molding section.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AZEK-3-8...Door-Thermostop-Moulding-ARMGT03192/205191043

And if you're concerned about water getting in at the base, I learned about Tsunamiseal thresholds here on the garage forum. I installed one and it's been terrific.

Where does a guy get those finishing boards you posted. I like them but have never seen any.
 
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737mechanic

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The PVC trim with built-in vinyl or rubber weatherstip?

Any good lumberyard should have 'em, and Home Depot sells 'em, look in the vertical rack where Azek is sold as well as cheaper version in the PVC molding section.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/AZEK-3-8-...3192/205191043

And if you're concerned about water getting in at the base, I learned about Tsunamiseal thresholds here on the garage forum. I installed one and it's been terrific.

I searched all the stores around me and not one store stocks the AZEK stuff.
 

Krodad

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Mar 25, 2006
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Iowa
Not to sure I would seal that. First of all the original was probably just untreated pine, thus the rot. The bottom of anything is always the place that shouldn't be sealed to allow any moisture to escape. You shouldn't have any rot problem with this being PT. If anything, I might look at no rot/poly wood to use

Plus 1!

Keep it at least 1/4" off the ground and don't seal.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 

tcianci

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Walpole, Ma
Plus 1!

Keep it at least 1/4" off the ground and don't seal.

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This! Sealant are a two-edged sword. They will fail to a degree, allow water in and do a pretty good job of not letting it back out. You have a very good detail going on right now, let it drain and breathe.

Whenever PT is installed in an application like that, it's best to either treat the **** end of the board if you cut it or better still, put the factory end down and the cut end up. The chemicals in PT are not as saturated into the core of the wood as they are near the surface so it's best to use the most treated surfaces near the wet. Another thing you may not be aware of is that not all grades of PT are rated for ground contact and have a limited life when used in or on the ground.
 

srmofo

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SW ohio
Keep it off the ground. Cut end up and dont seal it.

Sealing it will only allow water in but not out
 

Dcampbell98xj

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May 8, 2014
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80
Aztec is different then the trim/ weather seal. The Aztec is more a decorative molding for opening. It's a plastic composite and usually comes in lengths like lumber. 3/4"x4"x8', 1"x6"x8' and so on. The weather stripping is more commonly referred to as "stops" by garage door professionals or just weather stripping. If it was me I'd leave it alone and not seal the bottom of the boards. Let them breath and expand/ contract. Being P/T I doubt you will have to worry about rot anytime in the next 15-20 years.
 
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