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Muriatic Acid Trial - Cleaning Old Tools

dxdexter

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Having put the wire wheel aside for the time being, I have decided to try a few tools in a chemical bath of roughly 4:1 water and muriatic acid (20 baume 31.45%). The result were IMO excellent. The tools were soaked for 3 hours and then washed in water, rubbed lightly with fine steel wool and oiled with penetrating oil. Here are the before and after shots. For the sake of uniformity, after the rinsing both the undipped portion and the dipped portion were both lightly rubbed with the steel wool.

MuraticAcidtrial003.jpg

MuraticAcidtrial019.jpg


Here is a deep socket: before during and after. I only soaked half of the socket to have a comparison. Note the bubbling action.

MuraticAcidtrial008.jpg

MuraticAcidtrial009.jpg

MuraticAcidtrial012.jpg


I couldn't believe there was actually chrome on the bottom of this socket prior to the acid dip.

MuraticAcidtrial023.jpg

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MuraticAcidtrial016.jpg

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I left this one partially submerged and you can see the difference. The before picture is actually the other end on the wrench, but the dipped side was the same.

MuraticAcidtrial025.jpg

MuraticAcidtrial011.jpg


Edit: Safety: Always follow the manufacturers directions and wear the proper safety gear. I followed the mixing directions for rust removal, found on the side of the container.
 
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zuspiel

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Thanks for the review. Have to try that! Bunch cheaper than the evaporust (that I still haven't tried...)
 

r6_cannibal

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Nice! looking good! I have some muriatic at home. I'll have to do an evapo-rust, muriatic, and vinegar comparison to see which one performs best on different metals. I'm surprised how well these came out! :thumbup:
 

mkdive

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Nice! looking good! I have some muriatic at home. I'll have to do an evapo-rust, muriatic, and vinegar comparison to see which one performs best on different metals. I'm surprised how well these came out! :thumbup:

<-----looking forward to that review. It is a ton cheaper than the Evapo-rust...with quicker results!
 

fatfillup

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Be careful, muratic will go after chrome if left on long enough and will go after good steel also. By watching your dwell times you can get away with it probably. Also make sure you wipe down with oil because muratic will promote rerusting if metat is left bare.

I have been playing with the evaporust and find it to be amazingly safe and effective. Have not seen it go after chrome at all, has not burnt my skin, no fumes and followed up with a little scrub with a scothbrite pad and the tools look great.

Please bear in mind, I have 5 or 6 acids sitting on my shelf for sale to my pressure washing customers, (both hydrochloric and hydrofloric based) as well as a high alkyline based metal cleaner that cost me half or less than evaporust, have tried them to some degree and still like the evaporust better so far. Evaporust is safe and effective and seems to go a long way. I store what ever is left over in a plastic coffee can and haven't thrown any away yet.

I will keep testing and let you know if I find a better way.
 
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dxdexter

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I just took the latest batch of wrenches out of the bath. I left these in for around an hour. They cleaned up as if they were new.

MuraticAcidtrial027.jpg
 
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dxdexter

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Be careful, muratic will go after chrome if left on long enough and will go after good steel also. By watching your dwell times you can get away with it probably. Also make sure you wipe down with oil because muratic will promote rerusting if metat is left bare.

.

Agreed you must be careful. I always follow the safety directions and mixed the bath according to the rust removal directions on the container label. I wear rubber gloves and a respirator. As mentioned in the first post, I coated them with penetrating oil.

We have a large 50 liter bath of Muriatic acid at work and have forgotten non chrome steel concrete tools in the bath literally for a week with no apparent ill effects such as pitting. The same cannot be said for magnesium. It will readily pit the surface if submerged for any more than a few minutes and we neutralize the dipped part ASAP with a water and lime solution.

This is the first time I have actually used it for mechanics hand tools at home and am impressed at the results. They are better than what I expected.
 

Danglerb

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If your going to use acid, why not skip directly to the big daddy, Navel Jelly (orthophosphoric acid)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

Rust removal

Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools, or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water-soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted, it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer." It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes). After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats.
 
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dxdexter

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If your going to use acid, why not skip directly to the big daddy, Navel Jelly (orthophosphoric acid)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

.

As`luck would have it, I tried naval jelly directly before the muriatic acid. Here are the results after 2 applications according to the directions. I applied thick coats with a brush and washed between coats. I was not impressed with the results. The first photo shows the first coat applied and the second photo is the results of two applications.

MuraticAcidtrial001.jpg

MuraticAcidtrial002.jpg
 

35mastr

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I use alot safer method.

Apple Cider Vinagar,The Yellow Stuff

Before
PowermaticDrillPress023.jpg


PowermaticDrillPress024.jpg


After 7 days of soaking and shaking it around a bit.I just used the Garlic container so that I could montior the progress.Just wash off with hot water.Oil up and they are done.Alot safer than playing around with acids if you have kids and dogs like I do.

PowermaticDrillPress005.jpg


PowermaticDrillPress004.jpg
 

cnyeco1

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How do you neutralize the muriatic acid on the parts when finished? Do you wash it off or what?

I have a big craftsman vise that I need to clean and paint, but I can't afford to take it to a sandblaster. This seems like a pretty good way.

Thanks, Cam.
 

cnyeco1

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Thanks Krusty.

I was talking to my wife about it and baking soda is what we came up with. I'll post some before and after pics up when I do my vise.

Cam.
 
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dxdexter

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I use alot safer method.

Apple Cider Vinagar,The Yellow Stuff


After 7 days of soaking and shaking it around a bit.I just used the Garlic container so that I could montior the progress.Just wash off with hot water.Oil up and they are done.Alot safer than playing around with acids if you have kids and dogs like I do.

Granted the cider is a weaker form of acid, and safer like the vinegar, but I'm far to impatient to wait seven days. While I hate to admit it, I need instant gratification.
 
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dxdexter

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Here's a set of 1930's or early 40's sockets that got the acid treatment.

Before

VintageGrayTools005-1.jpg


After

Tools20080211016-1.jpg
 

alex71

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fawesome! Picked up a couple of gallons and a 5 gallon pail at homey depot over my lunch break. going to try it tonight.
 

caper

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I just did a bunch of old vise grips in vinegar last week,they're a mess-The chrome peeled like crazy,I'm going to have to wire wheel them to smooth them out enough that they don't tear up my hands.Took all of the rust off but I would have been better off just wire wheeling them from the start,save a step.
 

Uncle Buck

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I just did a bunch of old vise grips in vinegar last week,they're a mess-The chrome peeled like crazy,I'm going to have to wire wheel them to smooth them out enough that they don't tear up my hands.Took all of the rust off but I would have been better off just wire wheeling them from the start,save a step.

Unfortunately that would be a predictable result for something that still has plating remaining on it. :(
 

tpolley

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i have some craftsman adjustible wrenches i want to clean. they're about 10 years old. no chrome or paint their bare metal. and their kinda porus. imagine the surface of a c-man raised panel wrench or ratchet without chrome. that's what they look like. anyhoo they rust real bad. i've sand blasted or wire brushed them a hundred times and soak them in oil. they always come clean. i come back a month later and their rusty. i can store them submerged in oil and they'd still rust. it's a pitty because i like them they're beefier than the crecent adjustible wrenches. these are the ones...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944665000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Adjustable+Wrenches

anyway, question is what do you guys do with the muratic acid once you're done soaking the tools. i'm sure the EPA would have a field day if they found out you were dumping it in a sewer.
 

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35mastr

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i have some craftsman adjustible wrenches i want to clean. they're about 10 years old. no chrome or paint their bare metal. and their kinda porus. imagine the surface of a c-man raised panel wrench or ratchet without chrome. that's what they look like. anyhoo they rust real bad. i've sand blasted or wire brushed them a hundred times and soak them in oil. they always come clean. i come back a month later and their rusty. i can store them submerged in oil and they'd still rust. it's a pitty because i like them they're beefier than the crecent adjustible wrenches. these are the ones...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944665000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Adjustable+Wrenches

anyway, question is what do you guys do with the muratic acid once you're done soaking the tools. i'm sure the EPA would have a field day if they found out you were dumping it in a sewer.

I would try the Vinagar route on that stuff.Then oil up right after.You got nothing to loose.
 

Bolster

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I think I might start a wire wheeler club here! I get to be on the board though. I don't have to be the prez, I am easy!

Ha ha! Wire Wheeler's Club! Here are some alternate names (and slogans) to consider:

Tool Shredder's Club
"Have Wheel, Will Shred"

Instant Tool Aging Club
"50 years of tool wear in under a minute"

Wire Wheelers Anonymous
"We Like to Watch the Sparks"

Back on topic, very interesting thread, Dex, thanks.
 

wrenchr

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i have some craftsman adjustible wrenches i want to clean. they're about 10 years old. no chrome or paint their bare metal. and their kinda porus. imagine the surface of a c-man raised panel wrench or ratchet without chrome. that's what they look like. anyhoo they rust real bad. i've sand blasted or wire brushed them a hundred times and soak them in oil. they always come clean. i come back a month later and their rusty. i can store them submerged in oil and they'd still rust. it's a pitty because i like them they're beefier than the crecent adjustible wrenches. these are the ones...
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944665000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Adjustable+Wrenches

anyway, question is what do you guys do with the muratic acid once you're done soaking the tools. i'm sure the EPA would have a field day if they found out you were dumping it in a sewer.

Is the chrome peeling?? Return them to sears and get new!!
 
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dxdexter

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i have some craftsman adjustible wrenches i want to clean. they're about 10 years old. no chrome or paint their bare metal. and their kinda porus.

anyway, question is what do you guys do with the muratic acid once you're done soaking the tools. i'm sure the EPA would have a field day if they found out you were dumping it in a sewer.

I would not recommend any type of acid on a porous metal, be it muriatic, vinegar or apple cider. I find it hard to stop the reaction deep within the metal. The metal will also rust extremely fast without neutralizing and oiling.


The amount of acid/water solution I am using is extremely small, only 1" in a small plastic food container. It can be further cut with water and is extremely good for cleaning hard water stains and scale. Lime can also be added to the solution and returned to a base. I can't see that it is anymore harmful to the environment than some of the harsh cleaners such as Drano, but I'm no chemist.

If you use it, then only mix up enough to cover the tool, not 5 gallons of the stuff and wash and oil ASAP.

While the wire wheel is much faster, I am happy with the results I experienced, but others results may vary.
 

Torque1st

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I have used muriatic acid for years with no problems. A person just has to be sensible. Of course I had a little training...

Reminds me of an old saying:
LSD -Better living thru chemistry.
___From a sign on my old college chem lab office wall... The office was shared with three other chem lab assistants. I won't say who put up the sign. ;)

I guess we can just shorten that to:
Better living thru chemistry. :)

Tip:
For chromed parts just dip a wad of aluminum foil in vinegar and rub the parts with it.
 
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Uncle Buck

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Ha ha! Wire Wheeler's Club! Here are some alternate names (and slogans) to consider:

Tool Shredder's Club
"Have Wheel, Will Shred"

Instant Tool Aging Club
"50 years of tool wear in under a minute"

Wire Wheelers Anonymous
"We Like to Watch the Sparks"

.


how about "find'em and grind'em" :bowdown:

You find em we grind em TILL THERES NUTHIN LEFT! :wtf:
 
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dxdexter

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You find em we grind em TILL THERES NUTHIN LEFT! :wtf:

I confess I'm off the wire wheel wagon. I had to go back to the old wire wheel on my long Starrett tap handle. It wouldn't fit in my acid tray and the acid wouldn't free up the frozen chuck so I hit it with the oxy/acet and it was turning in 30 secs and gave her a good scrubbing with the evil spinning fury of the wheel. Looks like a million bucks.:beer:
 

Bolster

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It wouldn't fit in my acid tray and...

Speaking of which. I have had some luck finding organizing trays at Lowe's that are used to organize desk drawers, which are long and skinny, and a nice size for big wrenches & etc. They work pretty well for making maximum usage of chemical solutions.

Maybe not big enough for an entire tap holder, but decent for most hand tools.
 
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