Miller Dynasty 200 HF arc start

[scratchedup]

I am still a beginner with a capital B. Shortly I will be entering into a practice phase with my welder but an issue has bothered me for a while.

This machine has a HF "auto" arc starter. I do not think it is functioning properly and there is very little guidance on it.



Maybe someone could help me on how it works....how much pedal does it take to strike the arc......

Any way to check proper functioning?

 

[dragginbalz]

If the arc starts without touching the tungsten to the work piece, when you hit the foot control, then it is working. You can hold your finger about 1/4" from the tungsten and hit the foot control too and it should shoot a little lightening bolt between the two. Just don't touch the grounded pc while doing it


Check your ground and any contamination on the surface (mill scale, paint, oxidation, etc) if you are having ac starting problems.

If it is under warranty, you can always bring it in for repair, but if nothing is wrong with it be prepared to fork out an evaluation fee.

Good luck

 

[zkling]

Why do you not think it is working?

Get a clean piece of stock, fresh flap wheel finish, wipe with acetone, good ground contact. Turn the HF start on and hold the tungsten ~1/2"+ off the work piece. It should make a loud crackle noise, blue spark like a spark plug and then initiate the welding arc. You can also check it at night in a dark room, holding the torch up in the air.

I don't remember if that machine has adjustable HF intensity or not, if so you might need to turn it up.

 

[scratchedup]

Why do you not think it is working?

Get a clean piece of stock, fresh flap wheel finish, wipe with acetone, good ground contact. Turn the HF start on and hold the tungsten ~1/2"+ off the work piece. It should make a loud crackle noise, blue spark like a spark plug and then initiate the welding arc. You can also check it at night in a dark room, holding the torch up in the air.

I don't remember if that machine has adjustable HF intensity or not, if so you might need to turn it up.

again I'm a beginner but last time I attempted to use the Miller I had trouble getting an arc....I would mash the pedal [@100] amps momentarily to the floor and nada....

so I tried the touch /press pedal and lift torch technique but then I always got a deformed Tungsten....

I read a review of this machine somewhere and it seems someone had the same problem. When I bought this is was use and about 5ish years old but in good shape...

 

[welder4956]

Should look like this when HF Start is on when the foot control is slightly depressed:

 

[welder4956]

Here's another good video showing touch start vs. lift arc vs. HF start:

 

[Tinner]

I think there was a problem with the HF start in some of those older Dynasty 200s. We have 8 of them at work and the HF start failed in the 3 that are now about 4 years old. The newer ones have had no problems.

I use either a Dynasty 200 or 350 every day. The 200 doesn't light up like the big one does. I will jump a 1/2" gap under ideal conditions, but consistently, 1/4" is more like it. Dirty metal, bad ground or connections in the torch or lead all affect the start.

 

[scratchedup]

I think there was a problem with the HF start in some of those older Dynasty 200s. We have 8 of them at work and the HF start failed in the 3 that are now about 4 years old. The newer ones have had no problems.

I use either a Dynasty 200 or 350 every day. The 200 doesn't light up like the big one does. I will jump a 1/2" gap under ideal conditions, but consistently, 1/4" is more like it. Dirty metal, bad ground or connections in the torch or lead all affect the start.

I have to leave for work shortly and will probable not have time to test today.

Lets assume the HF start is bad. Is is repairable for a reasonable charge? What would be the technique to start the arc with not HF start?

THX

 

[scratchedup]

just hooked everything up...HF arc not working.

set-up-





press pedal-

 

[Tinner]

Lets assume the HF start is bad. Is is repairable for a reasonable charge? What would be the technique to start the arc with not HF start?

THX

Put it in the lift arc position. Touch the tungsten to the metal for 1-2 seconds with the pedal depressed and slowly lift up, the arc should start. In the stick position it should scratch start, but I've never tried that.

As far as the HF start being bad, I don't know. I really don't repair welders. I'll ask our maintenance guy tomorrow, he may have some simple things to check.

 

[zkling]

Start by going through the HF adjustment menu. Then if that doesn't help, I would check, clean and adjust the spark gap. After that you are probably going to have a repair center to look at it.

 

[scratchedup]

Start by going through the HF adjustment menu.

Where do I find this menu?

Then if that doesn't help, I would check, clean and adjust the spark gap.

I need info on how to do this? THX

After that you are probably going to have a repair center to look at it.

Well I just did a Goggle search and this appears to be a very common problem.

Guess I will find out what kind of a company Milker is.

 

[welder4956]

Do you have a foot pedal or torch switch? I think for the foot pedal the remote should be set to "On".

 

[dr_clyde]

Do you have a foot pedal or torch switch? I think for the foot pedal the remote should be set to "On".

No, turning that to "on" makes the electrode hot to max panel amperage. This is for stick welding or lift arc with no remote. RMT standard is for variable, like for a foot pedal. RMT hold turns the pedal into an on/off switch, with no variablity.

I have had the problem the op is describing, but only on ac, and only if my frequency was set too low. Every once in a blue moon it has difficulty on DC, but I can usually blame the ground or some other sort of user error.

 

[scratchedup]

I have a foot pedal.

When I tried it this morning when I depressed the pedal the sound of the machine changes and I hear the "point" popping but no arc.

From WWW. it looks like the points need to be cleaned. Before I bought this unit used it mostly sat in the back of on open truck bed for a few years...... prob corrosion.

 

[zkling]

Well I just did a Goggle search and this appears to be a very common problem.

Guess I will find out what kind of a company Milker is.

I would have to play with it to find the HF intensity setting, it is in one of the menus. Check the manual it should referenced be in there. I don't own a dynasty, just played with them a good bit, so I'm not back of the hand knowledge about the ins and out of that machine. Most modern tig machines operate fundamentally on the same basis though.

As for the points, you will have to take the cover off. Use caution and a wrist grounding strap wouldn't be a bad idea either. They are ~5/16" diameter cylinders. They should be smooth, not pitted on top, clean and IIRC ~0.008" thousands gap between them. At least that is what it is on my Syncrowave. Your machine should be around the same. Again read through the manual it should cover how to clean and adjust the points. Atleast the syncro manual cover this.

I have a foot pedal.

When I tried it this morning when I depressed the pedal the sound of the machine changes and I hear the "point" popping but no arc.

With the HF start on just holding the torch in mid air and depressing the pedal you should hear a buzzing/crackling sound coming from the points. That would at least indicate your HF circuit is somewhat working.

 

[welder4956]

No, turning that to "on" makes the electrode hot to max panel amperage. This is for stick welding or lift arc with no remote. RMT standard is for variable, like for a foot pedal. RMT hold turns the pedal into an on/off switch, with no variablity.

I have had the problem the op is describing, but only on ac, and only if my frequency was set too low. Every once in a blue moon it has difficulty on DC, but I can usually blame the ground or some other sort of user error.

Thanks Dr. Clyde. I'm thinking back to the Miller Dialarcs we used to use. Hard to keep up with the new stuff without an Owner's Manual. The OP can download the Owners Manual at http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php?model.

As someone else mentioned, it is likely the spark gap or contacts dirty/pitted.

 

[scratchedup]

Geee

The part new is only $350!

 

[3oheight]

We have an older dynasty 200 as well. Ours is doing same stuff. Needs new board. We tried adjusting gap and cleaning it but no go. *****. Newer ones have different hf starting. No way to upgrade either.

We wanted a water cooled setup so just got a 280 dx to replace the 200dx.

 

[scratchedup]

SER# LF099147

I'm willing to spend the money for a new part but I would like to know if it is a true fix.

From Miller4Less

"Good Morning,

Item #209112 has been superceded new item #230191 3 wk lead time from receipt of purchase $535.69

Thanks,

Dawn"

 

[welder4956]

SER# LF099147

I'm willing to spend the money for a new part but I would like to know if it is a true fix.

From Miller4Less

"Good Morning,

Item #209112 has been superceded new item #230191 3 wk lead time from receipt of purchase $535.69

Thanks,

Dawn"

You may be able to get a better price by mail order through a dealer. Try contacting Indiana Oxygen or Bakers Gas & Welding.

http://www.indianaoxygen.com/products/metal-fabrication/welding/
http://www.bakersgas.com/

 

[js289]

HF arc jumps the gap between the tungsten and work with lift arc big you have to contact work to get arc ! miller dealer should be able to look at machine.

 

[js289]

BTW how you like the dynasty? I was thinking of grabbing one

 

[zkling]

BTW how you like the dynasty? I was thinking of grabbing one

They are an awesome machine, once you get past the overall price.

 

[js289]

Yea i hear you on that! i almost fell over when i saw it!

 

[scratchedup]

Pretty sure I got it working...

Just cleaned up all connection, points, put OEM power cord back on.