Hammer Tone paint... No clue.

[AndrewV]

No clue on this type. But intrested.
Now. When going for the texture of it.
Just go over rust, for partial of the texture, and little prep. Or is most of the hammer tone style paints, have a texture base in them. I've searched a little, but came up with very very little.

And is a sealer/clear coat needed at all.

This what i want to do to sheet metal, but looking for practical info from my gj members.

 

[pepi]

Two suggestions, read the can or take a piece of scrap and shoot the paint on it. What's so hard ?

 

[drivesitfar]

Andrew: hammered finish spray paints usually have that finish when you spray on something smooth, but i'm usually spraying on cast iron.

as previous poster stated clean it up (or not) and make a test piece and see for yourself. if you buy the $10 ish cans they have a rust inhibitor in them and the $5 and less cans not so much so more prep should be done if using them.

 

[Outlawmws]

I'd do the prep as with any paint as far as rust removal, but you don't have to be fussy about getting all the pits out.

I've found the primary trick to getting a GOOD Hammertone surface is laying it on fairly thick. Thin coats tend to be rough to the touch, almost chalk board like; thick gets you a glossy finish with depth. So where possible, get flat surfaces horizontal so you aren't fighting gravity and runs...

 

[Marvelicious]

Not sure if you're talking rattle can or what, but I just did some through a paint gun. Interesting stuff. I thinned it with about 10% thinner just to get it to move through the 1.8 tip in my primer gun. I started laying it on kinda dry thinking I wanted to go after orange peel, but it wasn't doing the hammered effect at all. After that I started laying it on fairly thick, just short of runs like you would going for a nice glossy clear, and that worked better. Let it rest a bit between coats (more than the 10 minutes I was trying!), or the hammer spots will grow too large and look odd - which I discovered the hard way...

 

[softailgarage]

What kind of "hammered" paint are we talking about. I've used the Rustoleum Hammered spray paint and then the Hammerite brush on which are worlds apart from each other. With the spray paint, Ive found the best results are to use it without a primer otherwise I dont get the full "hammered" appearance. With the Hammerite, that **** is so thick you can lay it down right over the rust and grunge and whatever other nasties are there and never see it again.

 

[Fretters]

With the Hammerite, that **** is so thick....

That's the truth. I hate working with that stuff. Last I used was some copper colour, (it wasn't even close), and swore never again. ;D

 

[AndrewV]

Not sure if you're talking rattle can or what, but I just did some through a paint gun. Interesting stuff. I thinned it with about 10% thinner just to get it to move through the 1.8 tip in my primer gun. I started laying it on kinda dry thinking I wanted to go after orange peel, but it wasn't doing the hammered effect at all. After that I started laying it on fairly thick, just short of runs like you would going for a nice glossy clear, and that worked better. Let it rest a bit between coats (more than the 10 minutes I was trying!), or the hammer spots will grow too large and look odd - which I discovered the hard way...

I was looking at the hammermite gallons, and rustoleum rattle cans.
But it looks like, from what your saying Marvel, the rattel cans worked better. Since i have no access to paint guns anymore.
But i will have to do tust runs.
Ty for your input man.

 

[AndrewV]

What kind of "hammered" paint are we talking about. I've used the Rustoleum Hammered spray paint and then the Hammerite brush on which are worlds apart from each other. With the spray paint, Ive found the best results are to use it without a primer otherwise I dont get the full "hammered" appearance. With the Hammerite, that **** is so thick you can lay it down right over the rust and grunge and whatever other nasties are there and never see it again.

Thanks softail. I figured they were drasticly diffrent, in apperience since a primmer would change the under coating, just wasn't to sure if the hammered look would be right.

 

[Marvelicious]

I was looking at the hammermite gallons, and rustoleum rattle cans.
But it looks like, from what your saying Marvel, the rattel cans worked better. Since i have no access to paint guns anymore.
But i will have to do tust runs.
Ty for your input man.

It was the Hammerite stuff in the quart... Don't get me wrong, there are some oddities to spraying this in a gun, but I don't think I could've gotten a better result from rattle cans. Considering it now, as thick as this stuff is, I'll bet you could get an excellent result with a brush. Also, once it was dry to the touch, I put one of those cheap fan blown ceramic heaters on it and gave it about an hour on all surfaces. Made a big difference in hardness once it cooled. I'm sure you can get there with time, but I've heard people gripe about how long it takes to cure.

 

[Hop2it]

Back in the mid 60's I worked in a small mfg. co. We sprayed some machines with hammertone paint,asI recall we used Sherwin Williams dimenso one coat,we used silver,blue and green if you thinned it the pattern would be small like the old SK socket boxes if sprayed non thinned the pattern would be quite large.when sprayed non thinned it would come out of the spray gun like cobwebs and it needed to be sprayed in one heavy coat.
Doug