espyking83
Well-known member
Painting my Jeep and don't know the difference between a good sprayer and bad sprayer, can you recommend some that will do a good job and is relatively cheap? Do they even exist?
Decent paint sprayer under $60?
- Thread starter espyking83
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Hpozzuoli
Well-known member
I have this husky hvlp kit. I have used it a handful of times. It worked great. I painted a few car parts with it. The biggest job i did was a set of T tops. i shot the paint and the clear with it. Just make sure you keep it very clean. You can find them near your budget plus its a full kit and the guns feel just as heavy as a sata....obviously not sata quality, but good nonetheless.
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oldtractors
Well-known member
Actually, the Asian capitalists are making very little money. It is the Americans who are importing the product and marking it up 500% (and it is still cheaper than USA made) who are making the real money.
If you have to ask then you probably don't paint much or never have. Even the cheapest guns will outperform a first time painter. Get the cheapest gun you can put hands on and practice. Used guns are on every other table at the local flea market here, I probably saw 2 dozen today, $5 would get most any of them.
If by JEEP you mean wrangler then you don't need anything fancy. First vehicle I ever painted was my CJ-7, I used a $2 yardsale hvlp sprayer and used primer/paint/clear with same gun then tossed it in the scrap pile.
Fill reservoir with acetone and do some practice runs on the jeep till you get the hang of it. Or practice on scrap.
Givl Reggin
Banned
Sounds like you're more interested in just getting paint on it to keep from rusting than a quality high-gloss professional 'showroom' finish? If, so get spray cans instead.
There's several reason I say this; one you get a new 'nozzle' every time you change cans, there's no clean-up, mixing paint is already done for you and if you have no (or very little) spraying experience your much more likely to get good coverage from cans than learning the controls and techniques to use a spray gun.
And most importantly; if that's you're spray gun budget it doesn't sound like you're going to be doing this on a regular basis nor does it give me confidence that you have the proper compressor setup (air filters, water separator, air-dryer, etc.) or spray booth to be able to spray paint successfully.
I've been spraying lacquer finishes for over 40 years and use nothing but DeVilbiss for a reason. Now, I'll tell you that spraying a 'showroom' finish is a good portion technique, but even for someone with a great deal of experience can't make up for poor quality spray guns/nozzles.
I know that some many turn their noses up at the spray can suggestions, but take it from someone who has sprayed 100's and 100's of gallons, the nozzles on spray cans are very good and every can comes with a new one... the paint is consistently the right viscosity... no mess, no fuss... for a one-time painting, cans are the way to go.
There's several reason I say this; one you get a new 'nozzle' every time you change cans, there's no clean-up, mixing paint is already done for you and if you have no (or very little) spraying experience your much more likely to get good coverage from cans than learning the controls and techniques to use a spray gun.
And most importantly; if that's you're spray gun budget it doesn't sound like you're going to be doing this on a regular basis nor does it give me confidence that you have the proper compressor setup (air filters, water separator, air-dryer, etc.) or spray booth to be able to spray paint successfully.
I've been spraying lacquer finishes for over 40 years and use nothing but DeVilbiss for a reason. Now, I'll tell you that spraying a 'showroom' finish is a good portion technique, but even for someone with a great deal of experience can't make up for poor quality spray guns/nozzles.
I know that some many turn their noses up at the spray can suggestions, but take it from someone who has sprayed 100's and 100's of gallons, the nozzles on spray cans are very good and every can comes with a new one... the paint is consistently the right viscosity... no mess, no fuss... for a one-time painting, cans are the way to go.
low_dakota94
Well-known member
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- Jun 26, 2014
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Just keep an eye out for a good used one, sometimes you run into someone that don't realize what they got. I picked up this sata jet nr2000 for 20 bucks lol. It's a couple hundred bucks new.
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low_dakota94
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2014
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Sorry about the big pics lol.
sberry
Banned
I was at a flea and they had a pallet of CH used, they guy said they were ******** samples from the line. I was tempted to get one, you could play with them and some were super smooth and you could see where maybe the line guy fiddled with them. About 15$, half what they sell in Walmart for.
I agree, not really worth cleaning at that cost. I bought one for something with that thought in mind but it worked so good had it 10 yrs and a couple dozen jobs with it.
I usually use old one though.
I agree, not really worth cleaning at that cost. I bought one for something with that thought in mind but it worked so good had it 10 yrs and a couple dozen jobs with it.
I usually use old one though.
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Outlander
Well-known member
Painting an entire vehicle with rattle cans?? That's a new one
The paint in rattle cans is formulated for a narrow range of temp and humidity conditions. There's no way to adjust it for specific conditions. In addition how to you add a catalyst?
I think the OP would be better off buying relatively inexpensive implement enamel from a farm store and using a cheap HF spray gun then rattle cans. Get some scrap panels and practice, practice, practice.
Zeke
Well-known member
I hate these threads. Spray guns are some of the most precision pieces of equipment you will have in your shop. If you have sets of lettered and numbered drill bits you can go through a gun and make it work great. Otherwise you may well be fighting a poor spray pattern and poor atomization.
The dynamics of the orifices are a study in themselves. A cheap gun will have burrs and other imperfections. However, if you 'blueprint' the gun it will work fine. Now ask yourself if the orifices should have a slight bevel or if they should be absolutely crisp at the opening. If you don't know, you don't know your hole.
One size fits all is the best way to describe a HF gun. You won't find that in a paint booth. Different air caps, fluid nozzles and needles all matched for a specific Zahn cup viscosity determined by the material manufacturer. So, you have a primer gun, a base coat gun and a clear coat gun, minimum.
Then there's the BS about COO. Some of the finest weapon guns are made somewhere other than the USA. How many of you have one of those? Talk about some money going offshore. Paint guns are made in many countries. Many of you shout out against chicom merchandise with your vitriol but remain silent when discussing a Swiss watch. I get tired as hell reading all this ****.
As I said, many of you don't know your hole.
The dynamics of the orifices are a study in themselves. A cheap gun will have burrs and other imperfections. However, if you 'blueprint' the gun it will work fine. Now ask yourself if the orifices should have a slight bevel or if they should be absolutely crisp at the opening. If you don't know, you don't know your hole.
One size fits all is the best way to describe a HF gun. You won't find that in a paint booth. Different air caps, fluid nozzles and needles all matched for a specific Zahn cup viscosity determined by the material manufacturer. So, you have a primer gun, a base coat gun and a clear coat gun, minimum.
Then there's the BS about COO. Some of the finest weapon guns are made somewhere other than the USA. How many of you have one of those? Talk about some money going offshore. Paint guns are made in many countries. Many of you shout out against chicom merchandise with your vitriol but remain silent when discussing a Swiss watch. I get tired as hell reading all this ****.
As I said, many of you don't know your hole.