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Corrugated metal ceiling questions

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Wallyman

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Oct 18, 2011
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West Michigan
Dakota00 - They are 16"x10' residential aluminum soffit panels that I bought at Home Depot for about $15 each.

Nice.. had to be easier than the 39" x 8' pro-ribs to install... and lighter aluminum too. How did that compare price-wise per square foot?
 

spikedmd

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Baltimore, MD
Different question to all... My garage has joists that are 4 foot on center. I'm thinking of putting a ceiling in soon after I get my pole barn built and everything out of the packed garage. Obviously with 4' OC joists, drywall and plywood are basically out of the question so i was thinking of using some kind of ribbed metal. Anyone know what types/gauges of corrugated metal or even the soffit materials could span without sagging?

I am trying to not have to put strapping(?) across perpendicular across the joists to create fake 2' OC joists for mounting since its a low ceiling as it is (just <8 foot), If i had to do strapping, I suppose it would have to be 2x4 and not 1x4 because of that 4 foot distance too?

Any thoughts on ceiling material (metal or not) would be appreciated.
 

PCO6

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Nice.. had to be easier than the 39" x 8' pro-ribs to install... and lighter aluminum too. How did that compare price-wise per square foot?
Sorry for the late response to this. To be honest I didn't compare costs. The area I did was relatively small (20'x20') and I chose this method for convenience knowing I would be doing it by myself. I think I would have saved a few bucks if I used larger panels but at about $450 for the whole garage I figured that wasn't too bad.
 

G-ManBart

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My joists are 24" OC. I ordered my panels 10'6" so I have some over lap in case a joist was on center exactly. My shop is 60'L x 35' W. Ceiling insulation is R30.

You want to start from the back and work forward so you don't see the joints from the front (like vinyl siding). I put up the metal panels perpendicular to the joist. If you have to install the panels parellel to the joists, you have to add strapping. See the pics of the walls.

The panels were screwed into the joists. I ordered the screws with panels so the screw heads match.

After the ceiling was put up, I did the walls. Since the panels were installed parellel with the studs, I added metal strapping. Where the wall meets the ceiling, there is J channel. At the bottom, there is rat guard (Z channel). Wall insulation is R19. Bottom is 1/2" plywood with 2 coats of oil base Kilz and one coat of Sherwin Williams oil base enamel.


Ceiling height is 12', wish it was 14' but it'll do. The lights are 8' T8s, with 850 bulbs.

Billy T.
[email protected]

First off, that looks great....very nice job! I know this is an older thread, but was wondering if I could bounce two quick questions off you?

I couldn't tell from your pictures, but did you use J-channel at the ends of the ceiling panels, and at the tops of the walls, or just the top of the walls? Second, what did you use/where did you get the strapping you used on the walls? I was going to use normal 2x4s, but think the thinner strapping you used might be better.
 

404

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I would suggest a different material for ceiling cover. Metal is going to reflect 300% of the sound or so it will seem.:D If you have ever been to a Texas Road House you will notice how noisy it is during diner. It's mainly from the corrugated steel they use everywhere.

If you don't want to use dry wall look at 3/16 plywood underlayment. It will also be easier to work with.

Thank you that explains the ambiance at T R. :beer::lol_hitti:thumbup:
 

dfiler2

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NW Minnesota
Different question to all... My garage has joists that are 4 foot on center. I'm thinking of putting a ceiling in soon after I get my pole barn built and everything out of the packed garage. Obviously with 4' OC joists, drywall and plywood are basically out of the question so i was thinking of using some kind of ribbed metal. Anyone know what types/gauges of corrugated metal or even the soffit materials could span without sagging?

I am trying to not have to put strapping(?) across perpendicular across the joists to create fake 2' OC joists for mounting since its a low ceiling as it is (just <8 foot), If i had to do strapping, I suppose it would have to be 2x4 and not 1x4 because of that 4 foot distance too?

Any thoughts on ceiling material (metal or not) would be appreciated.

Metal panel liner, which is the same profile as pole barn steel just a lighter gauge, is rated to be attached every 4' with x lbs of insulation on top without sagging.
 

600SL

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I would like to do this to my garage. But I have a concern about structural issues. When I got my building quote the price for the interior walls was a $2500 option the interior ceiling was a $6500 option which I did not get.

So I have been concerned that maybe part of that $6500 option was thicker purlins to support the weight. I have priced out all the metal to do it and its about $2000 delivered.

Does anyone know what's up with this. 32 15' sheets on the ceiling is a lot of weight.??
 

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gnxtc2

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New york
First off, that looks great....very nice job! I know this is an older thread, but was wondering if I could bounce two quick questions off you?

I couldn't tell from your pictures, but did you use J-channel at the ends of the ceiling panels, and at the tops of the walls, or just the top of the walls? Second, what did you use/where did you get the strapping you used on the walls? I was going to use normal 2x4s, but think the thinner strapping you used might be better.
Thanks

The top of the walls and around the windows have J channel.

The bottom of the panels have "rat guard" or Z channel. The plywood needs to be installed first.

The corners have a corner piece, I'll take a pic of it. You can do J channel but looks cheesy.

You can get the metal strapping from a building supply, drop ceiling or sheetrock supply place. It's used when installing a dropped sheetrocked ceiling with black iron/pencil rod in commercial places. It's 11ga, 4"-5" wide and 10' long. I know about the flat stock from working in the commercial electrical trade.

Billy T.
[email protected]
 
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gnxtc2

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Pic of the corner

aeb7b539619479ab8c4a450932583761.jpg


Billy T.
[email protected]
 

Jlbc212

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Dec 7, 2013
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Northeast MA
I would like to do this to my garage. But I have a concern about structural issues. When I got my building quote the price for the interior walls was a $2500 option the interior ceiling was a $6500 option which I did not get.

So I have been concerned that maybe part of that $6500 option was thicker purlins to support the weight. I have priced out all the metal to do it and its about $2000 delivered.

Does anyone know what's up with this. 32 15' sheets on the ceiling is a lot of weight.??

Compared to sheet rock, steel ceiling panels are much lighter. My garage inside dimension is 27 ft deep by 35 feet. I used 29 gauge steel roofing panels for my ceiling. I ordered the panels cut at 9 ft 2 inches. If I remember correctly, I had 36 pieces. Together the total weight of the bundle was 630 pounds. Each sheet weighed approximately 17 1/2 pounds or only .65 pounds per square foot. That's not much weight. A wood frame ceiling dead weight load is usually up around 10 pounds per square foot. I rented a drywall lift to install the ceiling. I found a lift that would go up to my 12 ft high ceilings. I was able to install the entire ceiling by myself. I also had no issues in cutting the holes in the sheets for the electrical boxes for light fixtures.
 

kneppb

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Like others have said....I used white ribbed steel.There are no noise issues and the brightness is great.I have scissor trusses and R30 fiberglass insulation.We strapped 2ft OC and screwed the metal to the strapping with painted stitch screws.I used 6500K T8 fixtures and it is very nice to work in.I would not use corrugated galvanized....too dark IMHO.:thumbup:
what is that piece down the middle of your scissor trusses?
 

kneppb

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The piece of steel you see up in the peak is 8" commercial bottom track for steel studs.
thank you. I have been searching for ways to **** up each side. Any chance you have pictures how you mounted it or how the steel looks **** up to the track?
 
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Mr onetwo

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I thought I had some but I don't...sorry.At the peak of the scissor trusses I screwed a 2x6 to provide a flat straight surface.I then ran the white steel ceiling panels up against the 2x6.The track just attaches to the 2x6 (legs up) with GRK RSS lags and washers.Came out pretty nice.
 

kneppb

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I thought I had some but I don't...sorry.At the peak of the scissor trusses I screwed a 2x6 to provide a flat straight surface.I then ran the white steel ceiling panels up against the 2x6.The track just attaches to the 2x6 (legs up) with GRK RSS lags and washers.Came out pretty nice.
Thank you. Last question, where did purchase it from? When I google that piece there are tons of options.
 

Kaizen

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Also, since I am planning to use foam sheathing for a little bit of insulation (I dont need a whole lot). Is it best to just nail it to the bottom of the trusses? or Is there some way to cut the 4x8 sheets and kind of wedge them in between the 2x4 trusses that are on 24" centers? All in all I wouldnt be dreading this or that worried about it but the 14ft ceiling is going to make this 100 times more difficult than normal. I guess my best bet is to borrow some scaffolding from someone.
I got this to do mine. Still havent gotten around to it. Going to put long extensions on it so i can lift say a 16 foot piece and have it held up there.
Dont think i'd mess with that foam. Not enough to do much insulating and will be a pain screwing through. You really want the metal up against wood so it doesnt dimple. Add some blown in after or insulate between the trusses.
 

kneppb

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local lumber yard...make sure to get heavy gauge commercial. Thin track isn't heavy enough...will look like sh*t
Sorry I thought of one more question. Did you insulate the ceiling? If yes, how did you do it? I have been searching for insulating scissor trusses and not seeing a lot.
 

Mr onetwo

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R30 fiberglass batts stapled in between the trusses.If I had it to do over again I would add a 2" layer of blue board under the trusses and then strap it for the metal.
 

kneppb

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R30 fiberglass batts stapled in between the trusses.If I had it to do over again I would add a 2" layer of blue board under the trusses and then strap it for the metal.
Would you do metal ceiling, blue board, then the batts all under the truss then?
 

bluedog225

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Glad this thread got revived. I’ve got a 24’x24’ ceiling to do.

Is it foolish to think I can go the entire 24’ in one piece? I have scaffolding and can get a crew.

I was thinking white ribbed. Strapping at 2’ o.c.

Probably foam board as well as a vapor retarder as I need to keep interior moisture out to the lvl bays.

IMG_9836.jpeg
 

AC-WC

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NE, Indiana
Glad this thread got revived. I’ve got a 24’x24’ ceiling to do.

Is it foolish to think I can go the entire 24’ in one piece? I have scaffolding and can get a crew.

I was thinking white ribbed. Strapping at 2’ o.c.

Probably foam board as well as a vapor retarder as I need to keep interior moisture out to the lvl bays.

IMG_9836.jpeg
Just my opinion but I wouldn't do 24' in one piece. Very awkward and heavy. Even with scaffolding that's either a lot of guys hold it up and screw or 2 drywall lifts in unison and still a lot of guys screwing it in. I would recommend 12'.
If you place the joint right you'll never see it when you walk in. The section at my overhead doors those are 3-8' (each door, it was easier to handle with the door openers) then 3- 12. The center is a mix between 10' and 12'. Same for the last section. I had a crew of 4 Amish do the ceiling and they were done in 1 1/2 days. I think they only used the drywall lift for the center section.
Once you get the panels up it's so bright you have to really look to see the seams.
 

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Mr onetwo

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Glad this thread got revived. I’ve got a 24’x24’ ceiling to do.

Is it foolish to think I can go the entire 24’ in one piece? I have scaffolding and can get a crew.

I was thinking white ribbed. Strapping at 2’ o.c.

Probably foam board as well as a vapor retarder as I need to keep interior moisture out to the lvl bays.

IMG_9836.jpeg
One piece is too hard, especially with penetrations. In your case I would use Rockwool not fiberglass.I would skip the blueboard and put foil face polyiso between the stapping.I would use 14 ft and 5 ft metal so there is no seam down the center. Looks better IMHO. I used a sheetrock lift and a lift...ezy peazy.Plan any lighting upgrades well.SAIT thin wheels work great for cutting.
 

tom86951

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May 14, 2005
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CA
Mine has traditional insulation between the rafters. The metal is screwed into the rafters and the lights are screwed through the metal into the rafters. We used a pre-painted (Powder coated) corrugated metal for a faux-rustic look that will last. IMG_0772.jpeg
 

bluedog225

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Mine has traditional insulation between the rafters. The metal is screwed into the rafters and the lights are screwed through the metal into the rafters. We used a pre-painted (Powder coated) corrugated metal for a faux-rustic look that will last. IMG_0772.jpeg
Dang. Well done.
 

jskicet

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Western NC Mtns
Same here. 14ft 30x36 with ridge vent and soffit vents I would just turn the lights the same direction on the ribs. I mounted my lights directly to the metal ceiling. Blew in R38 in the ceiling and called it a day. Edit...I just noticed this thread is super old!

IMG_5024.jpeg
 
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