just blew up a Bolens 1600 hydro...

[fasteddie313]

and I love this tractor!!! its a beast!! was...

my blades found an old set of tire chains while I was doing some brush hogging and they stopped the whole thing dead in its tracks..

it rotates freely, and im not realizing a drop in compression but you cant tell with it being shaft drive and a belt pto on it at the same time its very heavy on the starter anyway..

****... it wont start and it seems to be pumping oil out of the intake through the carburetor...

it is a boxer/flat twin 16hp briggs horizontal with a shaft drive out the back and a pto pully at the front..

so im going to tear into her..

things I don't have that im going to need are

piston ring sleve style compressors with there little pliers
maybe plasti gauges

oh snap!!!

I just thought maybe its pumping oil out of the intake because I just flipped it up on its side to detangle the chain off of the blades...

hmm.. idk yet

it has been knocking a little bit for like 2 years and its due for a rebuild anyway..

we shall see

 

[mrpizza]

Im betting you sheared the flywheel key and its out of time now.

 

[PBCampbell]

Must be an Eliminator with the opposed Briggs. Attachments are belt driven on those, so I don't think it's likely you damaged the engine from a mower deck.

 

[G_P]

Im betting you sheared the flywheel key and its out of time now.

This. Key sheared and the magnet in the flywheel passes the coil at the wrong time causing it to spark out of time and not start.
Tipping it on its side will definitely cause oil to come out the carb as well. Pull the cover off the motor and check the flywheel key. replace it with another flywheel key not just any old keystock. Its a soft key designed to shear off and protect the rest of the motor from damage.

 

[fasteddie313]

yes the attatchments are belt drivin, besides the hydraulic pto witch is part of the transaxle..

the key theory is a good one also.. props..

but no..

I even pulled the oily pistons side head just for craps n giggles.. all is well once again..

started up fine, it was choked out with oil.... silly me.. had me scared for a minute..

I did further diagnose the knock though.. it is on both sides but the other side is worse than the side I pulled the head off of, I could feel it and dampen it with the piston vs crank rotation..

it says...

656cc
industrial
commercial
cast iron bore

on the engine, I really do want to rebuild this thing before it eventually blows up..

how much you guys reckon new rod/crank bearings, higher comp pistons w/rings and a slight overbore would run me on an engine like this?

maybe some better pistons and self balance it a bit to get just a bit more balls out of it while im at it?

bigger carb?

what could be done to tighten that engine up a bit n make it perform somewhat?

it does fine now, nothing stops it (but a chain), but I just want to make it cool cause I like it a lot..

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Im betting you sheared the flywheel key and its out of time now.

This. Key sheared and the magnet in the flywheel passes the coil at the wrong time causing it to spark out of time and not start.
Tipping it on its side will definitely cause oil to come out the carb as well. Pull the cover off the motor and check the flywheel key. replace it with another flywheel key not just any old keystock. Its a soft key designed to shear off and protect the rest of the motor from damage.

X3. Pull the flywheel before you go nuts chasing ghosts...

Tommy

 

[PBCampbell]

That engine has been out of production for quite some time, but well worthwhile to rebuild. I'd start by finding the Briggs manual for side valve(L engines) twin cylinders. Possibly found at your local library or Ebay. Those are neat old tractors, I have the next generation GTX which is all shaft drives, but very similar in most respects.
Shearing a key from a belt driven mowing deck is a possibility, but rare I think. It's not like a direct or ridgid drive system.

 

[ZRX61]

Flat twin? Drop a BMW R90 series motorcycle engine in it

 

[outdoorsman310]

I am not sure, but that may have aluminum rods and no bearings. I'm probably wrong though.

 

[fasteddie313]

That engine has been out of production for quite some time, but well worthwhile to rebuild. I'd start by finding the Briggs manual for side valve(L engines) twin cylinders. Possibly found at your local library or Ebay. Those are neat old tractors, I have the next generation GTX which is all shaft drives, but very similar in most respects.
Shearing a key from a belt driven mowing deck is a possibility, but rare I think. It's not like a direct or ridgid drive system.

great advice...

ive never chased parts for a briggs motor before and I don't really know what there different engines are or whatever...

I think I will try to contact briggs and bolens and see what they say...

it could also use some new mower blade bearings, they've survived some crazy **** and still work fine but they've always been loudish and are somewhat sloppy 1 or 2 are..

I think it would be cool to get as much compression as I could muster from the pistons/head, put a bigger carb on it, and a heavier flywheel so sudden loads wouldn't change my rpms as much, store more power kinda..