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2 car, short ceiling lighting question

jmlcolorado

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
794
Location
Elbert County, CO
Hey folks! I have a question regarding lighting for a low ceiling 2 car garage.
A few years ago when we were renting, I bought 3 8' T8 fixtures from Home Depot. These have worked really well, and I carried them to the house we bought. They have worked nicely in there for about 4 years, but now that I spend more time in the garage, I find their placement aren't optimal. The other problem I have is ceiling height. It's a hair under 8' near the back of the garage.
What I would like to do is add a 4th row to the back of the garage and space these closer together.
I've attached a photo of the height of the garage door to the ceiling too which is the next problem. I can't install any fixtures flush mounted to the ceiling due to door clearance issues.
What I propose to do is build a recess in between each truss bottom cord, Sheetrock, install lighting, then trim out the ceiling with 1x4 or similar in order to hold a reflector that would be near tight to the ceiling.
I frequently have dark spots now with the three and will be getting a lathe soon, so I'd like as much light as possible. I would likely switch all 8 fixtures with 4 switches. 2 switches for the front lights (no sense in having those on with the garage door open) and another two switches for the back fixtures. This would allow me to control lighting for general walking through lighting, all the way to full production lighting.

The permitter of the garage walls will be lined with equipment (lathe, disk sander, drill press, tool box/work bench, bench grinders, ect) so I want lighting to be close to directly above the walls to light these areas very well.
So rather than having one fixture in the center of the garage, there would be two equal distance from the center. This would also aid in under hood lighting when the truck is in the garage with the hood up.

Garage is heated and doesn't drop below 50* when unoccupied, and up to 70* max during the winter when working.

Here are some pictures to help.
Current setup looking to rear of garage:
photo4-3.jpg


View of above garage door. Wood door sags, new door wouldn't allow as much room:
photo3-4.jpg


Another view of above garage door clearance. My finger blocking the leer half of the photo to allow **** camera to raise brightness to show clearance clearly without sunlight making it too dark.
photo2-5.jpg


And a view of the current dark side of the garage.
photo1-5.jpg



I would like to try out t5 fixtures, but hear they aren't good for short ceilings. My hopes is that adding more fixtures would limit hot spots. I'm also not sure if they could be installed in an "enclosed" area, the recess I build to raise fixtures above ceiling height, and to add reflectors.
 
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CADPoint

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
155
Location
WSW of **** City
There are free down loadable lighting programs that you can try all
the lighting layouts you can think of!

...The permitter of the garage walls will be lined with equipment (lathe, disk sander, drill press, tool box/work bench, bench grinders, ect) so I want lighting to be close to directly above the walls to light these areas very well

This is tricker, usually you have to place the light 6 to 8 inches infront of your work (standing) area. You could move the outer lights in and add another
row for your work area(s).

It'd be expensive to insert all the lights into the ceiling, of course you can see the light difference with the software. I think I'd just cut some 4" (4 maybe 3) LED's or dimable halagons across the garage door opening.
You didn't mention the exact lamps your using now

I wouldn't mix and match exposed fluorscents that will look loopie!

Oh, & your profile picture is sick!!!
 
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J

jmlcolorado

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Messages
794
Location
Elbert County, CO
There are free down loadable lighting programs that you can try all
the lighting layouts you can think of!



This is tricker, usually you have to place the light 6 to 8 inches infront of your work (standing) area. You could move the outer lights in and add another
row for your work area(s).

It'd be expensive to insert all the lights into the ceiling, of course you can see the light difference with the software. I think I'd just cut some 4" (4 maybe 3) LED's or dimable halagons across the garage door opening.
You didn't mention the exact lamps your using now

I wouldn't mix and match exposed fluorscents that will look loopie!

Oh, & your profile picture is sick!!!


I'll track down one of these programs and see what I come up with
The lights used now are t8's, daylight color. Can't remember if they are HO or not, I seem to think they might be.

Recessing the lights wouldn't be hard at all. Simply cut out drywall (attic space above w/ no insulation) frame up the required height, hang and tape drywall. Being in the residential industry, I've got access to all the materials I need for virtually no cost. Easy breezy.


And I'm not sure what your particular definition of "sick" is. Either it made you vomit a little, or it's totally bad ***. I'm going to go with the second option and thank you. My mother always said I had a pretty face :D
 
Last edited:

GlenC

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
93
Location
Downey, CA
T5 troffer above the lathe might be good... even T8 would work. Only if the truss spacing is 24". I would still want to have 4 8' tubes over a lathe ... the more light the better and fewer shadows you should easily be able to recess your fixtures and include a diffuser lense to finish off the install.
 
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