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z28toz06

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I think I would be a better solderer than pipe threader. I will do either copper or garage pak aluminum when I do mine. I dont need that much, so it's not like it will cost me a fortune.
 

Torque1st

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It amazes me that people think they must be able to thread pipe and have a big power threader to use iron pipe! A plumber that carries 10' sticks on his truck may have need of one but the rest of us don't. A person does not have to thread a single piece of pipe to use iron pipe. Just buy an assortment of lengths when you pick up your fittings and return the excess to the store. Simple and no threading needed. I have done several iron pipe projects for gas and air that way.
 

Industrial Concepts

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I sell & install quite a bit of Aluminum (Prevost) airline. I am not trying to sell anything here. I believe that the people here that don't like the aluminum air piping systems, regardless of whose brand of piping, don't know the first thing about these products. I have been in the Finishing Industries for more years than I want to think about.

BLACK IRON Pipe rusts. I personally have seen quite a few clogged black iron pipes. Black pipe has rust in it when you purchase it from the plumbing supply house. When you cut and thread the pipe, what happens to the oil & metal shavings? Copper works fantastic.

Aluminum piping systems, like copper, are easy to expand, that is on of the pluses of the product.

Aluminum piping averages out be less expensive than all the other products, if you are paying to have airline installed. Aluminum is the easiest for the garage guy to install, but you do have to follow the instructions when you are charging the pipe.

Most of the new Body Shops are installing aluminum piping systems for the cleaningness of their air.
 

Torque1st

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Another aluminum system dealer... :spit:

Mr aluminum system dealer can you guarantee your company will be able to supply parts next year or even be in business next year? How about 5 years from now? When you cut the aluminum pipe what happens to all the debris?

Cleaning or flushing the system is a one time deal, not a big problem.

Iron pipe and copper parts will be available from hundreds of manufacturers for many years to come. Iron and copper are incredibly easy to use, -not as easy as cut, file, and slip, but easy enough that even a 14 year old can do it...
 

bgott

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BLACK IRON Pipe rusts. I personally have seen quite a few clogged black iron pipes. Black pipe has rust in it when you purchase it from the plumbing supply house. When you cut and thread the pipe, what happens to the oil & metal shavings? Copper works fantastic.

It's a good idea to "pickle" the piping system before using. Here is a link I Googled, it refers to hydraulic piping but you would use the same proceedure on air. Technically you should also flush out a copper/ soldered system to get rid of loose solder and flux buildup inside the pipe.


http://www.finishing.com/172/79.shtml
 

Industrial Concepts

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Another aluminum system dealer... :spit:

Yes I sell aluminum & copper pipe, along with other products, But as I wrote earlier, I am not trying to sell anything on this forum.
Mr aluminum system dealer can you guarantee your company will be able to supply parts next year or even be in business next year? How about 5 years from now?

The question should be "will Parker, who just purchased Legris, still be in business five years from now?" Legris manufactures Transair and also private labels pipe for Keasier (Smart Pipe) and Garage Pak.

Maybe the question should be "will Ingersol-Rand still be in busines five years from now?". I believe I-R sells two different styles.

Or should the question be will Infinity still be in business five years from now? Infinity makes an piping system & also private labels pipe for Champion Air compressors.

I believe Prevost is going to be around, they just expanded in S.C.

These companies have invested millions of dollars into developing an Engineered System for Compressed Air Line. The products are painted blue the international color code for compressed air. Most of these systems have true manifolds for drops. These products are designed to give a professional finished appearence. They are easy to install. Why would you not look at these products with an open mind? Toyota & many other manufactures have!
When you cut the aluminum pipe what happens to all the debris?

Cleaning or flushing the system is a one time deal, not a big problem.

Iron pipe and copper parts will be available from hundreds of manufacturers for many years to come. Iron and copper are incredibly easy to use, -not as easy as cut, file, and slip, but easy enough that even a 14 year old can do it...

I like copper as much as Aluminum, and I often combine the two products. I'm in the business to sell clean, dry air. I don't believe any other product other than copper or aluminum is a good choice. Copper is probally the easiest product to find. Aluminum may not be the best choice for every project, but it should not be knocked down because a lack of knowledge.


Extending any piping system is a pain, but, aluminum and copper are a lot easier than threaded pipe.

When I first started installing aluminum pipe, I had issues with shavings when I would drill the pipe for a drop. I've learned to clean as I go, no oily shavings as with threaded pipe.
 

Identaltech

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I allways use cooper with silver solder.
also use dry nitrogen in the line while soldering.
I work on mostly medical air systems and in no way black pipe would ever pass.
air must be clean and dry!
may be overboard for a shop but I can paint with out any other type of filters or air dryers at any port in my garage.:dunno:
 

Torque1st

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I have seen too many specialized piping and fitting "systems" come and go over the years not to have doubts about anything like these products.

It is comforting to know that Legris and Parker are behind this product. I have used both lines of fittings and air components since back in the mid 70'S. Legris makes fine push-in type fittings. Unfortunately, even for fine companies, product lines come and go.

Copper and iron are still easy to use. Personally I prefer galvanized steel pipe for air lines and I clean as I go. I also paint my lines to color code them.

Some municipalities will only allow black iron pipe for air lines. Some specifically disallow copper for air lines. PVC should be outlawed everywhere, OSHA does, even the manufacturers have dire warnings about it. I have not seen any regulations on aluminum pipe with plastic fittings. In my opinion it would be dangerous in a fire when the fittings gave way and fed high pressure air to a fire accelerating combustion, increasing temperatures, and flame spread. I believe that is one of the reasons copper is outlawed in some areas. The inspectors may have no way to tell what solder or braze material was used on the joints. It will take some time or a bad fire to set the legislative or standards authorities in motion. It is too bad that lives often have to be lost to call attention to a bad product or design.
 

Industrial Concepts

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I have seen too many specialized piping and fitting "systems" come and go over the years not to have doubts about anything like these products.

It is comforting to know that Legris and Parker are behind this product. I have used both lines of fittings and air components since back in the mid 70'S. Legris makes fine push-in type fittings. Unfortunately, even for fine companies, product lines come and go.

Copper and iron are still easy to use. Personally I prefer galvanized steel pipe for air lines and I clean as I go. I also paint my lines to color code them.

Some municipalities will only allow black iron pipe for air lines. Some specifically disallow copper for air lines. PVC should be outlawed everywhere, OSHA does, even the manufacturers have dire warnings about it. I have not seen any regulations on aluminum pipe with plastic fittings. In my opinion it would be dangerous in a fire when the fittings gave way and fed high pressure air to a fire accelerating combustion, increasing temperatures, and flame spread. I believe that is one of the reasons copper is outlawed in some areas. The inspectors may have no way to tell what solder or braze material was used on the joints. It will take some time or a bad fire to set the legislative or standards authorities in motion. It is too bad that lives often have to be lost to call attention to a bad product or design.

Transair uses metal unions & elbowa for their 60mm & larger pipe. They also put a hole in each end & pin the fittings with their larger pipe.

Infinity & some I-R use aluminum unions & elbows through out their product line.

Prevost is starting to use aluminum unions & elbows for their 63mm-80mm pipe. I hope they intergrate it with more of their product line.

As far as fire concerns, I've seen you post your concerns before on this issue. I would hope that people would close the ball valves on their reciever tanks prior to leaving for the day. I've thought about using a check valve to keep the compressor from running in case of a blown air hose.
 

Torque1st

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Transair uses metal unions & elbowa for their 60mm & larger pipe. They also put a hole in each end & pin the fittings with their larger pipe.

Infinity & some I-R use aluminum unions & elbows through out their product line.

Prevost is starting to use aluminum unions & elbows for their 63mm-80mm pipe. I hope they intergrate it with more of their product line.

As far as fire concerns, I've seen you post your concerns before on this issue. I would hope that people would close the ball valves on their reciever tanks prior to leaving for the day. I've thought about using a check valve to keep the compressor from running in case of a blown air hose.
Aluminum is a step up but it still melts too easily in a fire. Engine fires nowadays leave a nice silver puddle under the vehicle.

What people should do and what they actually do is a problem. Besides, Murphy says that the one night the ball valve is left open is the night a dirty rag would spontaneously catch fire, welding sparks would smolder and then flare up, or that electrical short would heat up. Fire can break out just as easily (actually more easily) while people are in the shop also. Nobody is going to stick around and close that valve then.

I can not say I do everything right and I have been lucky so far many times that could have ended in disaster but avoiding potential problems is good policy.
 

Rocket

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OK
I'll chime in here.
There is a lot of people against PVC (which is fair enough) but what about Poly ??
I've just read most of this thread and can not find any mention of it (or are you including poly with PVC? It's a totally different product)
There is a 'rated' air line for the pressures we need, in Poly.
Easy to install & I've never heard of a blow out in either air or high pressure water lines made of the same stuff.
If fire is your concern, I'd be a lot more concerned about other things than a bit of air or burning pipe (my last install was in a wall cavity)
My current work shop (rented) & is a pain to modify the steel piping.
If I ever find a new place & have to plumb it out, it will be in Poly.

Just my 2 bob's worth.

CHEERS,
Rod.
 

Rocket

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The issue with PVC is that it is brittle and will send shrapnel flying when it fails. Poly or PEX will just split if ruptured and not be a danger to occupants.

Spose I was happy to have it in a wall anyway, even though it was 'rated' Poly. (I used to install both in the irrigation industry & I'll tell you what, PVC makes a mess when it gives out, especially when the higher classed & pressures are used & almost always, the pipe was exposed. It should at least be out of the sunlight :()
 
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R

rinny_tin_tin

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OK
I'll chime in here.
There is a lot of people against PVC (which is fair enough) but what about Poly ??
I've just read most of this thread and can not find any mention of it (or are you including poly with PVC? It's a totally different product)
There is a 'rated' air line for the pressures we need, in Poly.
Easy to install & I've never heard of a blow out in either air or high pressure water lines made of the same stuff.
If fire is your concern, I'd be a lot more concerned about other things than a bit of air or burning pipe (my last install was in a wall cavity)
My current work shop (rented) & is a pain to modify the steel piping.
If I ever find a new place & have to plumb it out, it will be in Poly.

Just my 2 bob's worth.

CHEERS,
Rod.

Although poly is less brittle than PVC, it still can fragment when subject to overpressure, particularly poly that has nto been cross-linked properly or aged (as in XLPE) and poly that has been exposed to UV. Fillers are used, in particular carbon black to provide UV stability - however, these fillers also make th e material more brittle. From what I have heard here - I think the big thing going against plastics is its poor thermal transfer properties when contrasted to metal - that is, the ability to condense water , etc.
 

Identaltech

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Norwalk Iowa
poly or pex seems like it leaks more.
offices that have poly seem like they bleed down when the compressor is turned off
offices that have copper hold air longer.
no big deal but if you like to have your air instantly it might mater to you.
 

Rocket

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poly or pex seems like it leaks more.
offices that have poly seem like they bleed down when the compressor is turned off
offices that have copper hold air longer.
no big deal but if you like to have your air instantly it might mater to you.

Can't say I've had that problem (maybe it's just the installer :thumbup:)
P.S. To be honest it's a good thing to have the lines empty after hours.
If you buy the new style water traps, they have a self draining system when the pressure drops. They work on their own in my shop (plenty of leaks in the old steel lines) so appart from a couple of standard ones, the traps drain them selves (just one less thing to worry about :bounce:)
 

Rocket

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Although poly is less brittle than PVC, it still can fragment when subject to overpressure, particularly poly that has nto been cross-linked properly or aged (as in XLPE) and poly that has been exposed to UV. Fillers are used, in particular carbon black to provide UV stability - however, these fillers also make th e material more brittle. From what I have heard here - I think the big thing going against plastics is its poor thermal transfer properties when contrasted to metal - that is, the ability to condense water , etc.

Opps ......... missed this one :lol_hitti
I'd have to agree to a point, but steel does heat up to.
I spose it all depends on the length of your lines.
Something I've learnt is to have a downward run in the first section of line after the compressor, with an auto drain on it. This would normally be out side anyway. As the air cools, it will run to the drain. This is where a lot of water can be taken out. I also run traps at every out let to remove the rest.
Long hoses are a no no & I'm now even considering adding a trap to my mobile air trolley (it already has a self oiler for the tools)
Another little trick (if you don't mind leak down) is to have the valve slightly open on the compressor tank it self. It will help keep the water out for the lines. This makes a difference to the amount of water collecting in all the other traps etc so I feel (depending on the time of year) is worth doing, then all the auto drainers work one the air pressure finally drops off at the end of the day (that is if I actually remember to turn the thing off :()

This is a good thread, as the air quality can make a huge difference to how long your tools last (that includea using self oilers, which people tend not to oil their tools at all :()

C'Ya all :beer:
 
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RAYJAY

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:wtf::wtf::wtf:

Looks like someone knows how to use the Search button and came loaded for bear!!! Too bad you are as wrong as **** bro!!

Black pipe doesn't rust "inside and out" - where the F do you get that? Most every shop in the world has used balck pipe for a hundred years - including the OE's and dealership shops - I've been in them! That also includes HIGH END exoticar shops. Any scale that comes loose in the pipe is easily caught by the filter traps - and the rusty condensate starts right in the compressor - so there' no escaping it.
Now that's off my chest (sorry to call you out - still friends?) that's not to say Copper isn't good too. :bounce:
:beer:



you also forgot that black pipe will cool the air better ,

(the black pipe will stay cold longer than the copper helping pull the water out of the compressed air )
 
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rinny_tin_tin

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Opps ......... missed this one :lol_hitti
I'd have to agree to a point, but steel does heat up to.
I spose it all depends on the length of your lines.
Something I've learnt is to have a downward run in the first section of line after the compressor, with an auto drain on it. This would normally be out side anyway. As the air cools, it will run to the drain. This is where a lot of water can be taken out. I also run traps at every out let to remove the rest.
Long hoses are a no no & I'm now even considering adding a trap to my mobile air trolley (it already has a self oiler for the tools)
Another little trick (if you don't mind leak down) is to have the valve slightly open on the compressor tank it self. It will help keep the water out for the lines. This makes a difference to the amount of water collecting in all the other traps etc so I feel (depending on the time of year) is worth doing, then all the auto drainers work one the air pressure finally drops off at the end of the day (that is if I actually remember to turn the thing off :()

This is a good thread, as the air quality can make a huge difference to how long your tools last (that includea using self oilers, which people tend not to oil their tools at all :()

C'Ya all :beer:

Aye - a good thread it is - I was schooled much on the topic. I think what I'm gonna do is run copper in lieu of black iron - mostly because black iron is much heavier than copper, and I can do the sweating on copper.To a minor degree - iron does rust and I have seen enough rust and other debris in black iron gas pipes to acknowledge rust to be a concern - despite good maintenance practices. Plastic is off the table for me as is aluminum - because I want to stay away from esoteric joint fittings -- why provide the Al manufacturer the opportunity to have me by the short and curlies?

Copper for me is a good fit.
 

Richard Givan

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you also forgot that black pipe will cool the air better ,

(the black pipe will stay cold longer than the copper helping pull the water out of the compressed air )

I must respectfully dissent. As we all know, copper conducts heat better than most any common metal. Look at the fins on the radiator cooling your pc processor (ok, they might be aluminum if it's not the best unit on the market). What about the best quality radiators on our cars? You won't find black iron used for those purposes.

While not presuming to know your thoughts, I suspect you are equating the sheer mass of iron pipes with cooling ability. Possibly the cold sunk into wintertime pipes would last longer with iron than copper, but, by the same token, during the high heat of summer they would keep that air hotter than ever.

However, I honestly feel this is an overblown issue compared to other ones. Namely, cost and difficulty in installing.

I just got back from Lowes where I bought six 10' lengths of 1/2" copper, plus tees, elbows, couplings, strap hangers, etc. I'm going to extend the copper line I ran about 14 years ago in my basement woodshop in another direction to reach my garage. (I finally got a large enough compressor to power pretty much any tool I want). Anyway, all those supplies ran me $46 and change. I looked at 1/2" black iron pipe, and the same lengths were ten bucks apiece. I didn't even bother checking the prices of the fittings, but I'd bet all I own that they would well exceed the copper prices.

Secondly is the matter of cutting, threading and hanging black iron vs. copper. You can nip off copper with a pipe cutter, hit it with emory cloth on the outside, run a brush on the inside, flux it (hee hee), fire up a propane torch and sweat a copper joint while you would still be cutting and setting up to thread an iron pipe. Yeah, I know you can buy pieces already cut to length and threaded at the store, but at even greater cost and inconvenience, and that's only if your needs run to nice multiples of feet.

Or, you can do a bang-up custom job yourself. Of course, a decent kit of iron pipe cutter, pipe dies and wrench, possibly a vice run big bucks. Or, all those copper tools can be bought for, what, $15-20?

I have the tools to work iron and have done it. And maybe some guys find it more appealing because all the galoots on this forum are experienced in threading pieces together. But if sweating copper pipe intimidates you, you really need to expand your skill set. It is really not hard to do, and to do right. I assembled my current system in a few hours. It runs around three walls with four drops. When I first pressurized it, zero leaks. It's the cheap type "M" pipe, yet has lasted all these years with fairly heavy use and no problems. If it should fail, I would expect a split similar to a frozen water pipe and a loud hissing of air for 15-30 seconds. I would go upstairs, change my pants, and come back down to fix it in short order.

Iron pipe is great, probably the strongest and best system you could install. But, short of complete reversal of the pipe price structure, I will never see how some of you guys claim it's cheaper to buy than copper. Or easier to install.

Have you figured out which side I belong to in this debate?
 

porschedude996TT

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I just finished (Saturday) with a 3/4" copper pipe system in my build. I ran 200’ of type L ¾”. I designed mine so that each outlet is feed from the bottom so that moisture doesn't condensate down to the QD. On each branch I provided for a low point drain to sweep the system in case I get water in the line. I plan to make a condenser on the outside of my shop to cool and dry the air before it enters the water traps and the in-line filter. I currently have a PVC System that is surface mounted and has served me well for 14 years without problems. I choose copper because it was going in the wall and I didn't want it to be a problem in the future. I really don't like black pipe for air systems for several reasons. Nasty to work with, scale, oily, dirty, and then there is the threading. I liked running the copper and cutting it to length as I went and then soldered the whole system in a matter of minutes. Lighter, cheaper, cleaner, and more economical in my opinion.
 

sharage71

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Been watching this thread for a while. Think I'm goin' with copper. I checked the prices and they seem more reasonable. Gonna buy some material and start sweatn'. It doesn't seem to hard. Anyone have a minute to type out a crash course with possible pitfalls. I plan on buying a DIY book anyway but would like to have some "experience" to lean on. Thanks guys
 

KenS

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Been watching this thread for a while. Think I'm goin' with copper. I checked the prices and they seem more reasonable. Gonna buy some material and start sweatn'. It doesn't seem to hard. Anyone have a minute to type out a crash course with possible pitfalls. I plan on buying a DIY book anyway but would like to have some "experience" to lean on. Thanks guys

1. Use wire brushes for female connections, and abrasive cloth for male pipe and fittings, to clean each joint and fitting. The key to good sweated copper joints is they must be shiny bright clean with no oxidation or contamination.

2. Use an acid brush to coat flux onto the cleaned joints and fittings. Be sure the flux is of a type compatible with the solder you are using. Put an even coat of flux on the entire male and female surfaces of the joint to be soldered. The flux is an integral part of the cleaning process so you can afford to be generous, but not overly sloppy, with it.

3. Before applying solder, preheat the joint with your torch. The copper must be hot enough to melt the solder on touch. A good indication that the joint has reached temperature is to watch for the flux to just begin smoking-- not burning. Also the copper around the joint will just begin turning a darker red color. Then touch the solder to the joint. While you don't want a solder-starved joint, it takes surprising little solder to make a good joint. Capillary action will quickly draw melted solder into the heated joint. (Plumbers will often unwind a length of solder about 8 to 12-inches long from the roll. On the open end they form a half hoop or crook about 1 1/2 or 2 inches in diameter. This allows them to easily reach the back side of the joint being soldered.)

4. A lot of plumbers will carry a rag with them and wipe excess solder from the joint after the flame has been removed, but while the solder is still molten. It takes just a swift swipe being careful not burn yourself. Some prefer a slightly dampened rag, but if you use one you have to be sure the heat of the joint does not turn water on the rag to steam which could burn you.

5. If you accidentally overheat the joint to the point that you have burned off the flux and totally discolored the copper, I suggest pulling the joint apart, allowing the pieces to cool, and repeat the cleaning-fluxing-soldering operation from the beginning.
 

Chuckster815

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I have read that for compressed air the joints should be brazed or a "special" solder should be used. If sweat soldering, what exactly is the correct solder to use?
 

porschedude996TT

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I have read that for compressed air the joints should be brazed or a "special" solder should be used. If sweat soldering, what exactly is the correct solder to use?

I am not sure why, unless you were runing something over 200psig. I think I will run test and see what come apart first, the side wall of the tubing or the solder joint.
 

HOTFR8

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OK
I'll chime in here.
There is a lot of people against PVC (which is fair enough) but what about Poly ??
I've just read most of this thread and can not find any mention of it (or are you including poly with PVC? It's a totally different product)
There is a 'rated' air line for the pressures we need, in Poly.
Easy to install & I've never heard of a blow out in either air or high pressure water lines made of the same stuff.
If fire is your concern, I'd be a lot more concerned about other things than a bit of air or burning pipe (my last install was in a wall cavity)
My current work shop (rented) & is a pain to modify the steel piping.
If I ever find a new place & have to plumb it out, it will be in Poly.

Just my 2 bob's worth.

CHEERS,
Rod.

I've seen a few places do this. Easy to set up and if the landlord does not like it it is also easy to dismantle when you move.

The shop painting my F4 has this setup and has no problems with it at all.
 

Jim Stabe

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I have copper soldered with regular acid core solder and have a 175 psi compressor with the line pressurized all the time. It has been together since copper pipe was cheap and have had a total of zero problems. Go for it!.

Jim
 

35mastr

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I just finished (Saturday) with a 3/4" copper pipe system in my build. I ran 200’ of type L ¾”. I designed mine so that each outlet is feed from the bottom so that moisture doesn't condensate down to the QD. On each branch I provided for a low point drain to sweep the system in case I get water in the line. I plan to make a condenser on the outside of my shop to cool and dry the air before it enters the water traps and the in-line filter. I currently have a PVC System that is surface mounted and has served me well for 14 years without problems. I choose copper because it was going in the wall and I didn't want it to be a problem in the future. I really don't like black pipe for air systems for several reasons. Nasty to work with, scale, oily, dirty, and then there is the threading. I liked running the copper and cutting it to length as I went and then soldered the whole system in a matter of minutes. Lighter, cheaper, cleaner, and more economical in my opinion.

Got pics??
 

Torque1st

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Steel and copper SHOULD heat up! That means it is working. :bounce:

Poly like any flexible product will form little water traps all down the line everywhere it droops a little. Those traps can deliver a slug of water to a tool suddenly. Poly or any plastic will not dissipate the heat as well as metal pipe. Cooling the air and condensing the water so it can be separated out and drained away is one of the functions of the air distribution system.

I have read that for compressed air the joints should be brazed or a "special" solder should be used. If sweat soldering, what exactly is the correct solder to use?

I have copper soldered with regular acid core solder and have a 175 psi compressor with the line pressurized all the time. It has been together since copper pipe was cheap and have had a total of zero problems. Go for it!.

Jim
Copper soldered with regular plumbing solder seems to be one of the reasons copper is not allowed in some municipalities. The joints fail at a very low temperature and feed the flames in a fire. If copper is used it should be soldered with high temp solder like silver solder.

As far as which is cheaper to install iron or copper commodity prices vary over time...:beer:
 
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mmg440

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Running poly is a lot like just running air hoses all around the shop. It will work to get the air there but does not provide any other benefits. I like Iron in that you can put the air fittings right to the drop and anchor the pipe and not have to anchor the coupler because the pipe can support the forces to connect and disconnect the hose.


I have thought about making a run of poly or pex for air to the pole barn and throw a 30 gallon air tank out there that I could have fill up from the garage compressor It should be able to run air tools for a short time. then the smaller line maybe 1/2 would have to refill the tank I would think the larger the line the more sensitive it would be to pressure and most likely have a lower psi rating? haven't looked into it to much yet. Like waiting for a small compressor but it would be from the line balancing time. So I could have some air out there. I would pull it threw a pcv conduit in the ground in case I had to ever replace it. Would also have a ball shut off valve in the garage so the line could be shut down when not in use.
 

Torque1st

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mmg440 -Run the largest line you can.

A "T" at the lowest point will help drain off any water that accumulates there.
 
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mmg440

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mmg440 -Run the largest line you can.

A "T" at the lowest point will help drain off any water that accumulates there.

This would be a underground line ran into a conduit and the lowest point would be underground. No T would be happening for drain. But the tank on the far side could be drained and any air system off of it could be with a drip leg or whatever. Anyway I am not sure I would do this I would probably be putting the conduit for the air line in the same trench as power for the building so then I would also have power out there so I could throw a compressor on top of the tank and the line would be a redundant backup. I could use it to run small things out there without having to fire up a second compressor on the property. Maybe just going out there to pull a part off a complete engine or something. I could turn the air valve on in the garage and have the air tank pre charged when I got out there. My goal with the line would be to supply the tank. Not necessarily be able to run off of it. I would guess it's about 150' to 200' feet away. Larger line would bring up the cost quite a bit for something that would have a very limited use and purpose. If or when I trench to the house I was thinking of maybe running a air line there as well. I could put a small 5 or 10 gallon tank in a utility area and a couple connects. I could use some air tools if I chose to or use a air blow gun to inflate something ( I don't know what I just think it would be cool) .
 

Torque1st

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I realized it was an underground line. Just make sure one end is lower than the other. Dig a hole at that end for a dry well and install the "T" at that point. A 1/4" line to drain the water from the "T" is all that is required. Your conduit can connect to a large 6"+ conduit/pipe at the low end. Leaving the large conduit/pipe open on the lower end will help drain condensation that will form in the conduit.
 

mmg440

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I realized it was an underground line. Just make sure one end is lower than the other. Dig a hole at that end for a dry well and install the "T" at that point. A 1/4" line to drain the water from the "T" is all that is required. Your conduit can connect to a large 6"+ conduit/pipe at the low end. Leaving the large conduit/pipe open on the lower end will help drain condensation that will form in the conduit.

I get it put a tee under the ground maybe with a small reservoir and run then run a small bleed line up so it can be drained. Good idea.:thumbup: But i really don't know if it is really a benefit since it will be going in to a tank it could push whatever condensates form right threw the line and drain them from the tank. But I guess it is better to keep a tank dry if it can be. I am thinking if I did make a run like this it would come off the air system in the garage/shop on a dropped leg closer to the end of the piping system in there were almost all the moisture is out and the air temp is already cool before the run.

Note: I changed my avitar to show the two buildings
 

Torque1st

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Water collecting at the low point will re-hydrate the air and the air will have to bubble thru the water effectively reducing the free flow capacity of the line. An underground line can collect a lot of water at times.
 

mmg440

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Dixion, Missouri
Water collecting at the low point will re-hydrate the air and the air will have to bubble thru the water effectively reducing the free flow capacity of the line. An underground line can collect a lot of water at times.


I would think in a high flow rate situation I would be creating. Like a 1/2 line dumping into a 30 gal tank the water would be blasted threw ?:headscrat? I have used compressed air to blast water and oil out of similar small tubes. Moisture is part of the reason I would consider such a small size I probably could go down to 7/16 for the run. When or if I ever get to this little project I keep the water drain and tee in mind. I may consider hand dig the last 2' of the trench under the wall of the poll barn the lower (receiving building and make a small area so I could add the tee and drain if needed at a later date). in a small pit just inside the building.
 
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