Hardwood direction for U shaped counter top question

[67carl]

I'm going to use oak hardwood flooring for my workshop counters. I'm in the process of laying the "subfloor" now (see pic), but am unsure of which direction to run the oak on the shorter sections of the U shape. Any suggestions or pics of something like this already done? Thanks!

 

[southalabama]

I'd run it the long direction on each of the counters. I'd mitre a 45 where they join.

 

[chipper]

I'd run it the long direction on each of the counters. I'd mitre a 45 where they join.

+1 that's what I was thinking plus I would put a plank at 45 joining the miters ..hope that makes sense

 

[yeldogt]

Run them long ways and weave them at the corners - like a boarder on a floor.

 

[JR 42]

Run them long ways and weave them at the corners - like a boarder on a floor.

Yes, this! If you use factory pieces (don't cut off the end match) it'll go together a lot easier than trying to miter the corner, and accommodate the inevitable wood movement much better. Plus, it'll look cool.

JR

 

[jake00]

I'd do either, BUT. Use stair nose on the front.

 

[67carl]

I thought about the 45 miter but wasn't sure if they would shrink a little and open a gap where they meet. I do like the idea of weaving them at the 45 and may give that a try.

I understand the suggestion of running a "plank" at the 45 between the opposing boards and if I don't weave may take a look at that.

That cantilevered section on the left is going to be a little desk area. One thought I had after I framed it (with 2x6) and saw all that space was to hinge that section of the top (like a school desk) so I could utilize the space.

Did I mention when I started this I had just planned on removing the dry rotted shelves and now it's snowballed into a major remodel?! I HAVE to stop coming up with new ideas or this will never be done.

Thanks for your help!

 

[67carl]

I'd do either, BUT. Use stair nose on the front.

I'm running the counter 1 1/2" over the edge of the cabinet. I will thicken up that overhang then my thought is to rip down lengths of the oak for the face. Once they are in place I can take my router and knock the edge off, give it a bullnose profile, then finish it. I like the idea of having an overhang so I can clamp things as needed. Thoughts or comments?

 

[southalabama]

Sounding good so far.

Post some pics and do a follow up and tell us how you are liking it.

 

[ptgb]

Used closeout maple flooring on my bench tops.

I simply ran it long across the main bench and then perpendicular on the island. The T&G was on all sides so it was easy. Everything was glued together.

In a heated garage for over a year now with no opening of gaps in the T&G anywhere.

 

[67carl]

Thanks ptgb, appreciate the picture. Did you leave it unfinished or...?

 

[Zeke]

If your counters are unequal depths your corners are going to look funny. ptgb has a solution for that.

 

[ptgb]

Thanks ptgb, appreciate the picture. Did you leave it unfinished or...?

Nope.... 6 coats of polyurethane....

 

[CJCar]

Have you considered running it all at a 45 degree angle? Start in the back right corner and work your way out. No miters, weaves, or but joints to worry about. You will have more waste, and your OCD may not allow...

 

[67carl]

Have you considered running it all at a 45 degree angle? Start in the back right corner and work your way out. No miters, weaves, or but joints to worry about. You will have more waste, and your OCD may not allow...

That's an interesting concept but yes, it would likely drive me batty!

I've got 2 layers of OSB down now and everything is level. Somehow I even got the joints lined up and flush. Decided to hinge the "desk" top so I ordered a pair of swing away hinges. I'll go pick up the unfinished hardwood tomorrow and let it acclimate for a few days. Should be ready to rock-n-roll by the weekend.