Getting this 60Gal Air Compressor up to par

[dent]

Hey all. Sloppy post for now but i will edit when i have time. Picked up a 60Gal Sanford Compressor from a guy at work. He picked it up from a shop that closed down. Trying to figure out what i'm working with now. He said he used it for a bit a year or two ago once or twice but not much since he got a smaller compressor.

Photos here.

Pump- Appears to not be original. There is no mfg name on it but i think i tracked it down to be an IMC B2800 since its made in Italy. Please make any corrections you see necessary. None of the part numbers match up to anything but that's what it looks most like. definitely overfilled with oil

Motor- Century USA made 5HP 220 motor. Nothing remarkable no note.

Tank- ASME 1987 mfg (or cert?) date. Cracking the drain expelled copious amounts of poo. I'd say about a half gal total. Not entirely sure what it is comprised of but its not confidence inspirining. Initially i would have said rust and water but a lot of it doesn't really appear to dry and is pretty thick so i suspect its a lot of oil as well. Judging by the overfilled pump (above sight glass) I wouldn't be surprised. I got a snake camera in there. the walls have expected rust but not overly extensive and the bottom has a bunch of that muck. Seems too much to be all rust so i suspect a mixture of oil, moisture, rust, and some sort of biological substance? I don't really know. Going to take the inspection plugs off and take a look inside when i get my 3/4 breaker. I'll probably powerwash the bottom so i can get a look at the bottom surface. I'm hoping that a lot of it was oil. I'd like to give this guy some sort of inspection before i put it into use to make sure its safe.

I was going to try to run a hydro test but was looking for a little guidance on the matter. I was going to plug up the holes and leave only the gauge, drain, side connect with ball valve (to release pressure), and a zerk fitting to pressureize it with a grease gun. Having a little trouble locally sourcing an NPT zerk though. the auto stores have SAE.

OK, so my questions....
- i dont see a test pressure on the tag. Working pressure is 140PSI. I've read both 1.5WP and 1.3WP for hydro testing. The goal is also not to go over yield strength of steel which ill look up but i bet age and wear may have altered it a bit. I don't know if that is generally calculated in. Any insight? I'd probably stick with the OEM specs when in air use (90-120)

-Any way to look up info with ASME based on serial number? who would i ask?

-Is it weird that head thickness is less than shell thickness if i am reading that tag right?

-was going to use some gas teflon for all the fittings (yellow) when reattaching unless you've got any reason not to. That work on the inspection plugs as well or is that dope only since its massive? Also are there torques on those?

Hoping i didn't get a raw deal and this pans out.

Thanks for reading. I'll clean post this up when i get some free time.

 

[dent]

Managed to partially strip out the bottom inspection plug with 3/4 breaker and a 4ft cheater bar. I was a dummy head and thought the plug was giving when in fact it was just chewing it up.

Do they make square drives fit a little better than the 3/4 square connector itself?

any advice for getting this sucker out? was going to try my heat gun a bit but i did a number on the plug so i dont want to hack at it all that much more without a better plan. I'll go snap a pic of my boneheadedness....

 

[mark52621]

There are square drive socket sets. Your plug is probably takes 7/8" at least that's what mine needed. I didn't have the proper socket so I made two shims out of 1/8" scrap steel and used a 3/4" breaker bar.

 

[dent]

mark52621- Thanks. I'll go take a look. Added a few pictures to the gallery. Most of the tank looks alright but still dont really know what the bottom looks like because its got a layer of sludge in the bottom. Going to try to find a way to break it up. Hopefully i can get one of these freakin ports open.

what are the square drive sockets called? "square drive socket" seems to pickup every socket because they all have the square back.

 

[mark52621]

Don't do a home hydro test. It will tell you nothing and could damage the tank.

A real hydro test the tank is submerged under water and then ran up to pressure. Pass fail is determined by how much the volume of the tank increases under pressure.

Just clean the tank and look inside. If, after cleaning, you see a trough of metal that's missing then you decide to replace the tank or not. My guess is that with the amount of oil that came out you will be fine.

I've cleaned a few old compressor tanks and this is how it goes:

1 If it has pin hole air leaks replace.

2 Power wash out gunck. This will be mainly oil and water. The more oil the better for your tank and worse for your compressor.

3 Look inside for flakes of steel. The power washer will break free rusted weak steel. These will be from sized from sand to 2-3 inches across. The easiest/fastest way to remove is with a magnet.

4 Now look inside and see if you feel safe using it or not.

good luck

 

[dent]

Thanks for the heads up.

Would it make sense to at least hydro it up to max rated pressure? If the tank is damaged at that point it would have ruptured with air as well.

Getting in there to wash or look around is tough. The largest port i can get open is 1/2in directly on top.

 

[dent]

So it doesn't look like the plugs are coming out without any drastic measures. Any tips in cleaning out the gunk on the bottom of the tank. The top port is too small to get the pressure washer in there and its a long way down. I'm going to give ti a shot this weekend but was wondering if there was anything else i could use to break it up chemically that wont damage the tank. Brake or oven cleaner?

 

[Grigg]

You can weld a nut on the plug and then remove it. The heat from welding helps break any rust bond that may have formed.

 

[dent]

Grigg- Thanks! Dont have access to that equipment unfortunately. I was also a bit leery of messing with super heating parts of the tank.

 

[mark52621]

Square head drain plug sockets are what your looking for.

Tanks almost always fail by pinhole air leaks at the bottom of the tank. Tanks get dangerous when people try to plug these holes. I wouldn't worry about your tank.

A pressure washer just speeds up the process. Without it use the strong degreaser.

 

[dent]

Square head drain plug sockets are what your looking for.

Finally i know what they are called! No luck finding a 3/4" though. I imagine when i do find it, it'll be quite pricey and i'll use it all of once.

A pressure washer just speeds up the process. Without it use the strong degreaser.

Any recommendations?

 

[sberry]

I got to agree with mark, leave it alone, fire it up, quit fukkin with it.

 

[CompressorPros.com]

The pump looks to be a ABAC T16. Which would fit the time frame on the tag. They sold pumps to Sanborn, which became Coleman. Hopefully, the pump is in good shape. I don't believe that there are many parts available.

 

[dent]

Sberry- Just wanted to put in my due diligence since i already own it and its going in my house. Got a pressure washer in there but shooting down from a 1/2 hole 5ft up it wasnt 100% effective. I cant really get enough light and sight down there to make a great judgement. That's why i was trying to mess with it. On a lighter note tearing it down i was able to clean it up a lot.

Compressorpros.com- Interesting. I was originally thinking it was the B2800 due to the slanted filler neck (B3800 seems to be straight) but the casting looks a little different. I cant find any pics besides a parts diagram of the T16 but the year seems to line up a little bit better (the one parts diagram is labeled 97). There anything i can send you about it to confirm? Would you happen to have the specs? Found this online but dont know the accuracy...

13.35 cfm @ 100psi (w/ 5 HP motor)
5.0 HP
Min RPM 700 Max RPM 1400
Max pressure 140 psi
Flywheel 14.56"
Bore 2.75 LP
Stroke 1.97
Oil 1.16 Qts.
Belt A-1
Weight 38 lbs.
14.56" H x 11.4" W x 14.4" H
Bolt Footprint 8.03" Side to Side 5.98" Front to Back


Drained the oil. clean up top and dirty at the bottom. I think it was overfilled as it was over the sight glass. Its supposed to be in the center correct? Any suggestions on oil? Assuming just non detergent 30 weight. Does it have to be pump specific or is SAE good to go? Thanks.

 

[dent]

Figuring out the electrical at the moment.

Have an old style 20A 3 prong plug (non NEMA)

Cant seem to find much info on them like diagrams or where to buy them. Guessing they are obsoleted? figuring its the regular 2 poles and a ground but the description on this site says "non grounded"


If i'm going to be SOL finding one i'll either rewire to a NEMA 20A (L6-20R and L6-20P) or just directly hardwire. Could I just unscrew the plug and use the existing cable to wire directly into a box potentially with a switch? Dont even know if that is required as its in the same room as the breaker but it would be nice.

Any insight on the matter would be great.

EDIT: Looked at the cutoff switch and the 3rd wire goes directly to the frame and is green. Is this not a ground?
-Whats the difference from the 3 wire NEMA then besides plug shape?
-Can i still get the old receptacles?
-What is the most common plug among compressors and tools? The most common one would make sense if i was going to change it.

 

[PT Doc]

I got to agree with mark, leave it alone, fire it up, quit fukkin with it.

Well stated. If you question a tank, my recommendation is don't buy it. If you buy it, have a plan for a new tank. So many times that plug is not coming out. I think someone on this forum heated up the plug with a torch. I wouldn't recommend messing with a pressure vessel that will be under high pressures likely in the presence of people.

 

[dent]

Thanks PT... We've crossed that bridge though so now it's where to go from here that I'm working on.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[kenfain]

Isn't that three prong plug supposed to be, two hots and a neutral? It can't be that hard to find, looks like standard stuff to me. My concern would be the amp rating. Isn't that why most 220v units are hard wired?

 

[AP514]

Isn't that three prong plug supposed to be, two hots and a neutral? It can't be that hard to find, looks like standard stuff to me. My concern would be the amp rating. Isn't that why most 220v units are hard wired?

I think thats 2 hots and a Ground (green)

I used a cutoff box on my hard wire'n......solid wire from C/B box to cutoff then STRANDED from cutoff box to compressor (solid wire will break from vibration)

 

[dent]

Amperage isn't a big deal.. wires are legit gauge.

Plug isn't standard anymore. All the new ones are NEMA and different configuration. NEMA L6-20 would be the most current. But since id have to rewire the plug and socket it almost makes sense to hard wire.

was thinking either a switch like this.

Although this guy seems the most economical being both a junction box and cutoff and i can pick it up locally.

Otherwise there are guys such as this.

 

[AP514]

why have Fused ?

this is what I got..........http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Indoor-Safety-Switch-TGN3321CP/100674081 ...but I ran 10-3 wire to give a me a nuteral so I could have an intercooler fan run when my compressor runs.

 

[dent]

Update:

Tried to hydro test it up to working pressure but either the zerk or gun i had was not cooperating and i was fed up. 60 gal of water wasted i suppose. Although i was able to get a lot more crud out of the tank and pressure wash the bottom a bit more so it wont gum up the drain valve. got more flakes than the regular muck this time around though. There anything i should do to inhibit further rust? BTW Oxalic Acid is pretty interesting if you puts around the internet a bit. Super mild acid and lots of people use it on gas tanks and even restoring chrome/painted things. I'd assume you'd need to hit it with a base after anyway but interesting non the less. I'm guessing that rinsing it out would just negate whatever you just did so its probably a moot point.

Ended up with 50ft of 12/2 MC cable and this little guy

Its a disconnect with a switch that wasn't too pricey. The ones with the external throw switches were like 50 or needed fuses as well. I figure between the breaker in the load center and thermal on the motor i didn't need more fuses. I went with direct wire because i was going to put a switch in anyway and since i needed to replace the plug and socket it made sense to just nix them.

Fired it up outside and it went up to pressure (well a little shy but i adjusted (120)) with no hassle aside from a fitting or two that needed to be tightened. Let it dwell for a bit and brought her in. I'll check if it maintained pressure when i get home from work.

AP514 - Intercooler fan? What type of setup you have going there?

 

[dent]

My compressor doesn't seem to have an unloader. I dont see any ports on the motor, nothing goes to the pressure switch, no blowoff when it shuts down, and the check valve looks to be just a check valve. Could it be normal to not have an unloader or should i be grabbing a load genie? Its not the OEM motor so i'm not sure whats still stock.