Who's got the oldest Pole Building.

[ctgoodman]

I've been trying to figure out what I want for the longest time. I'm shooting for a max size of 40x60 or just short of that. With that in consideration I have several local builders say a Steel building or Pole Building will give be the most bang for the buck. I'm having some issue finding what I feel is a reputable steel building manufacturer. The few I have contacted where extreme high pressure "you got to jump on this deal today to get it at this price". That's a major turn off for me. I've however have had great experience talking with DIY Pole Barns and Hansen which supply post frame kits. The contractor that built my house has put up several pole buildings in the area and does a great job at it. I just still have this hang up about any type of wood making ground contact.

I guess what I want to get some consensus on the longevity of this type of building. So I have a few questions.

1. How long has your pole building been up?
2. Have you had any issues with rot of the poles or the splash plank/skirt board. Especially if you have concrete poured up to it on the outside as well.
3. Have you any issues with bugs? ie: termites
4. Have you had any regrets about building this type of building?
5. I plan to occasionally knock the chill off with a wood stove. What would you, at minimum, recommend I install to prevent interior condensation?
6. About where are you located? I'm in Central NC.
7. Have you had any issues with your metal siding rusting near the bottom or where it contacts the treated lumber?

If you have a pole building that is 25 or more years old can you post a pic of your skirt board or splash plank? I'm concerned somewhat with it's appearance after many years exposed to the elements.

DIY Pole Barns says they use MCA treated lumber. I always heard the CCA stuff is the best but will I get the lifetime of performance out of the MCA treatment?

 

[zkdiesel]

Have a pair of 60x120's from the mid and later 60's
Took them nth down in 1992 and reinstalled in new location and have been there since
They now show there age and starting to look tired but will last another 15-20 years
A few poles have been replaced as well as a few pieces of yin from wind damage
One building was built with a grain package(poles on 4' centers) and half of it's poles are about junk now

 

[ctgoodman]

Have a pair of 60x120's from the mid and later 60's
Took them nth down in 1992 and reinstalled in new location and have been there since
They now show there age and starting to look tired but will last another 15-20 years
A few poles have been replaced as well as a few pieces of yin from wind damage
One building was built with a grain package(poles on 4' centers) and half of it's poles are about junk now

Wow, pushing 50 years.. That's not bad then. I would like to build something that my children won't have to worry too much about in their lifetime. In NC termites are fairly prevalent so that's what worries me the most is eventually they get into the wood even though it is treated.

 

[Kevin54]

Wow, pushing 50 years.. That's not bad then. I would like to build something that my children won't have to worry too much about in their lifetime. In NC termites are fairly prevalent so that's what worries me the most is eventually they get into the wood even though it is treated.

Use some sonotubes, pour the concrete to the top, then insert pole supports for your post. That way you have nothing in the ground. I'll come back as soon as I get out to the garage and post the link to what I'm talking about. I was thinking about using them for my addition.

 

[gearhead9056]

I'm in South Dakota and we have a 60x80 pole building built in 1979 on the farm. In the last few years the post are starting to rot at ground level, this is where I think either putting them on or in concrete would solve that problem. As for the skirt board, my dad poured a small about 12-18" concrete wall in its place to help keep rodents and water out

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Kevin54]

ctgoodman..... heck out www.permacolumn.com and take a look at these https://www.permacolumn.com/wet-set-models

The wet set type has four long anchors that goes into the wet concrete.

Or they have these that are the drill type

 

[McFarmer]

I have a Morton building from the early sixties. Nothing has ever been done to it other than replace the walk-in door. No issues at all. Iowa.

 

[kbs2244]

On my grandfathers farm there is shed he built with used power poles that sit in hand dug holes that was built during the 1930's
I have no idea how deep they are but he did belive in going below the frost line.
And in DeKalb county IL that is at least 36 inches.
(I have a friend that was a power company pole man who told be he has see 48 inch frost out in north IL the boonies. They dig 60 inch deep holes.)

 

[justin1795]

we are at 42 inch footings in the quad citys.

 

[rieferman]

As discussed many times before on this forum:

- Many will tell you that post protection of any type is a waste of time, they didn't bother and never had a problem etc. etc. etc.

- Experts will tell you that many a building has rotted out prematurely. Preservatives have changed over time, varying quality lumber, different soil conditions etc. Many variables.

- Post sleeves or Perma-Columns are two options to eliminate the rot possibility very inexpensively. Post sleeves will be cheaper and easier. Perma-Columns are as permanent/sturdy as a poured foundation but are heavy to work with if it's a DIY application. Both will work nicely.

- Board covers are another way to eliminate potential skirt board rot. Post sleeve companies sell these.

It's very easy and cheap to take these steps while building. Very much a PITA to do it later. In my opinion, it's a no brainer.