To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Vise maintenance

8man

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
630
Location
Bryan, Texas
Ok, Grandad's Vise is looking good, but when I went out last weekend there was a fine layer of rust starting on the handle. Now I hate rust, so I got out the fine grit sand paper and polished it up until the rust was not visible. Then I put a fine layer of oil on it to try and slow down the rust.

Now my question, what do I put on the bare metal parts so I can use it but keep the rust away?

Thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,228
Location
Pacific Northwest
linseed oil and i guess they have two types that i'm going to try and see which one is best.

I've used Johnson paste wax which needs to be applied fairly often so hoping the linseed oil will be less maintenance.

even WD 40 on a rag will work, but that dries up fairly quick so you'll have to apply about every couple weeks or each month.
 

rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,828
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
I keep seeing Linseed oil recommended. As an amateur woodworker too, I know that raw Linseed oil takes weeks to dry on wood and until it does it's gummy. That's why we use boiled Linseed oil, it dries a lot quicker. So how does Linseed oil do on metal? I use wax on both of my vises and don't mind re-applying it when needed.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,228
Location
Pacific Northwest
Rick: hopefully Jake or Fretters or a few others will find this thread to give their expertise to the Linseed oil question you have. there has been several posts on the vise threads and a few other places with this information that i can't put my finger on just now in case you want to do a search until somebody makes a post.

i did hear that the boiled is easier and probably for the same reason on steel as on wood. i'm trying to not only use it on my bare steel on vises, but also on other tools and a few gym steel weights i have in unheated storage.

i have used WD 40 on a rag to remove surface rust fairly quickly on the gym weights in the past and i hear it also works great to clean up tool boxes.
 

Davefr

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2010
Messages
11,945
Location
OR
On unfinished machinery surfaces I use Varathane #66 natural oil. Wipe it on and wipe it off. It leaves a very thin protective surface. (don't build up a surface layer)

I'm not sure if it's still made. If not, just mix 1 part Polyurethane varnish with 1 part Turpentine.

It lasts much longer then wax.
 

Fretters

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
4,217
Location
South Yorkshire, England
I keep seeing Linseed oil recommended. As an amateur woodworker too, I know that raw Linseed oil takes weeks to dry on wood and until it does it's gummy. That's why we use boiled Linseed oil, it dries a lot quicker. So how does Linseed oil do on metal?

As DIF mentioned, it exhibits the exact same behaviour on wood as it does iron. Apply a coat, leave overnight and then either buff or apply another layer. The obvious difference between wood and iron application is that iron won't absorb any oil, (unless there's some rust or similar on the surface), like wood does, so it's a pure surface layer.
 

jakemac

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
It's use is fairly simple, I just spread a thick layer of boiled linseed oil on the metal with my fingers and then let it dry. Depending on how thick you apply it, it can take days or weeks to fully dry.

Back when I was blacksmithing, sometimes we would throw the piece back on top of the fire to "season" the oil black (similar to seasoning a cast iron frying pan).

Another method we used to finish metal was something we called the "Stink Rag" method. This can be dangerous if the metal is too hot. We would heat the metal in the forge (hot, not red or colored hot), then rub it with an old shop rag that was infused with boiled linseed oil. (wear thick gloves) If the metal is too hot the rag will flash into flames in your hand (BTDT). This needs to be done in a well ventilated area, it produces A LOT of smoke and fumes. Thus the stink rag reference. It works best on small pieces, large pieces are difficult to heat properly.

You may be able to duplicate this finish by rubbing the metal with a thick layer of linseed oil, then burning it with a "clean" flame on a torch. Once everything cools down, lightly rub the metal clean with a rag and then apply a thin coat of linseed oil to seal it all. (never tried it myself, just a theory) :dunno:
 
Last edited:

Fretters

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
4,217
Location
South Yorkshire, England
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Carla

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Has any one tried this stuff, I am waiting for my order to come in, I would like to oxide some of my swivel clamps. I think it is almost like gun bluing you buy in a bottle.

http://www.westmarine.com/ospho--ospho-metal-primer--P012222196

Yes, it appears to be a variety of the old 'phosphoric etch'..........it should work well, but do warm the parts and oil or wax them well after using it. (or apply a thin coat of a clear varnish)

If you like an 'oxide black', use Brownells 'Oxpho'....its sold as a 'gun blue', but is actually a copper black, and is a good protective finish for steel, but must also be oiled or otherwise protectively coated.

With the workpiece warmed, and a bit of care, one can get a finish somewhat resembling 'case colours' with Oxpho.....it takes a bit of experimentation, but will do a quite nice aesthetic finish on some steels.....which still must be oiled, waxed, varnished or clear lacquered, tho.

cheers

Carla
 
Last edited:

exmaxima1

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2011
Messages
6,354
Location
Midwest
Ok, Grandad's Vise is looking good, but when I went out last weekend there was a fine layer of rust starting on the handle. Now I hate rust, so I got out the fine grit sand paper and polished it up until the rust was not visible. Then I put a fine layer of oil on it to try and slow down the rust.

Now my question, what do I put on the bare metal parts so I can use it but keep the rust away?

Thanks.

Have you tried any of the "gun oils"? I wiped my vise handles and levers with gun oil and it seems to work fine in preventing rust.
 

rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,828
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
Well BLO sure makes more sense than raw Linseed oil. One note of caution is that rags soaked in any Linseed oil can self-ignite if wadded up and thrown into a container. Soak them in water after use, then wash them.
 

jakemac

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
I never had to worry about spontaneous combustion, all our rags got burned up using the stink rag method I described earlier. Intentional combustion ! :lol_hitti
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,228
Location
Pacific Northwest
interesting stuff and thanks for sharing guys and Carla.

by the way talking about safety. one of our members threw a rag with i think some wood stain just in his open trash can and it set his garage on fire. now he has a thread going on the other side of the forum rebuilding a new one.

i guess a rag bin with a cover on it is a good and necessary thing for a shop because i can't see washing rags after doing a little work all the time.

or Jake's method of cleaning rags works too and hopefully he still has a couple eyebrows. :bounce:
 

Fretters

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
4,217
Location
South Yorkshire, England
Just hanging them to air dry is the other option. The oil doesn't generate enough heat to self combust generally unless it's either tightly enclosed, in a hot place etc., so hanging them is safe too.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,228
Location
Pacific Northwest
Koken: how does it work and how often do you have to apply it? when you say marine environment are you living on a boat or just a waterfront home?
 

Koken

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2011
Messages
360
Location
South Florida
Koken: how does it work and how often do you have to apply it? when you say marine environment are you living on a boat or just a waterfront home?

Waterfront (Fl Keys). Home Depot sells Corrosion Stop. I usually spray it on and forget about it. If it is something you are going to handle, I spray it on and let it sit for as long as possible. If you spray too much, gently wipe off any excess. It will leave a protective film. I used it on the Wilton vise I just bought. Thank you for answering my question about the vise. I will respond on the Vises Thread.
 

EOC_Jason

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
11,388
Location
Bentonville, AR
Seeing as how the OP lives in Bryan, TX... ***** that we live in an area with such high average humidity... Though at least where you live it's a *little* lower than down here in Houston.

I've never tried the linseed method, probably wouldn't hurt to try.

If you use paste wax, let the vise sit out in the sun for a bit to warm it up good, then the paste wax will melt as you apply it and hopefully give a good coating.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom