need advice on what tool to use>>>

[mtesh73]

i have a deck about 600-700 square feet, its the original first generation trex. the prior homeowner painted it

my problem is the boards are nearly painted together so water does not drain properly. on top of that it looks like a thick garage floor paint in gray, so i feel like i am standing on the deck of an aircraft carrier.

its not cost effective right now to replace all the boards, they are in pretty sound shape other than the lack of spacing and color.

i was thinking of using a router with a 1/4" bit to route the spaces in between the boards and allow for the proper drainage. i am also thinking of re-painting with a brown (cedar) color "deckover" type product.

my question, is there a better, quicker, safer or more efficient method of returning the spacing. i realize with a 1/4" router bit i am going to lose the eased edge on all the boards. i think i am ok with that??

 

[Askme42]

Got pics of this deck?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I've never worked with trex but wouldn't a circular saw be easier to keep straight as it would pretty much follow the joints.

 

[Monte]

maybe this works ?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SLqfBfonGxU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Askme42]

maybe this works ?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SLqfBfonGxU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Looks like a great excuse to buy a new tool.

 

[jakemac]

The deck boards should be nailed down, or screwed down with composite screws. There's a "blind" system as well, but I don't think it was available when the original Trex came out.

What about removing each board, scraping the paint from the edges, then turning the board over before reinstalling them. This should give you a new surface to re-finish (although, you may need to live with extra nail holes). Paint each board before putting them back down and then do touch-ups after.

 

[tim.bergfeld]

I don't think you wanna use a router it would cost you a fortune in bits trex is hard on anything saw blades included my advice is check the depth gauge set a circular saw to the depth just before your joist and get a good straight edge and several blades and have fun use a jamb saw to get up close to any walls that may be in the way


The wolf

 

[1950mercury]

Just drill holes in the joints every 12 inches or so

 

[skruft]

I do not like the router idea because even if you use some sort of guide, it seems easy to slip and then you will have an awful mess that is hard to fix.

 

[rsanter]

Use a circular saw and use a edge guide to follow.
To get the relieved edge back you can use a V bit in the router or you can use a block plane

Bob

 

[SASORacing]

Your holes just need to be very small to drain water. I would get a small drill bit and drill holes every 3-4 feet or so. You wont even notice the holes. I would paint it brown too, grey might have that aircraft carrier look you dont like.

Drilling holes is a simple solution to a simple problem, just dont overthink it. If it doesnt turn out right to you. Like said above, take out each/ every other board and sand the new holes down parrallel.

 

[franzdom]

I have holes in my deck from this exact problem, and they aren't that small and they are always getting clogged, big oak tree overhead.

 

[mtesh73]

Got pics of this deck?

i will post some pics tomorrow, dont have any handy.

maybe this works ?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/SLqfBfonGxU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

looks like a good idea, i will look into it further.

The deck boards should be nailed down, or screwed down with composite screws. There's a "blind" system as well, but I don't think it was available when the original Trex came out.

What about removing each board, scraping the paint from the edges, then turning the board over before reinstalling them. This should give you a new surface to re-finish (although, you may need to live with extra nail holes). Paint each board before putting them back down and then do touch-ups after.

i removed an entire lower tier of the deck, including the decking....it was not easy. prior owner used stainless steel, coarse, square drive deck screws. with them being painted over its impossible to unscrew them, we just ripped the trex out from around them and wonder barred them out later, not fun.


thanks for the ideas guys, i will keep you posted.

 

[1cargarage]

Do you like the deck painted? If not, you could just pressure wash the entire deck. That would remove the paint, clear the gaps, and make the stainless fasteners accessible for the future.

 

[nicksnothereman]

i have a deck about 600-700 square feet, its the original first generation trex. the prior homeowner painted it

my problem is the boards are nearly painted together so water does not drain properly. on top of that it looks like a thick garage floor paint in gray, so i feel like i am standing on the deck of an aircraft carrier.

its not cost effective right now to replace all the boards, they are in pretty sound shape other than the lack of spacing and color.

i was thinking of using a router with a 1/4" bit to route the spaces in between the boards and allow for the proper drainage. i am also thinking of re-painting with a brown (cedar) color "deckover" type product.

my question, is there a better, quicker, safer or more efficient method of returning the spacing. i realize with a 1/4" router bit i am going to lose the eased edge on all the boards. i think i am ok with that??

If it's just paint...probably don't even need to use a router. Can you get under the deck? If so you could probably just scrape the paint from the gaps and you'd be good to go. Lot of work though. Maybe an oscillating tool with scraper attachment?

 

[CJM8515]

Circular saw and just cut in between the boards. Probably take 2 hours.

 

[davesnothere]

Go in the kitchen and get your wife's favorite knife. That should work the best.

 

[srmofo]

Power washer

 

[jeremy v]

If drainage is the main concern I would personally spray some water on the deck just to see where any low spots are that puddle water and then I would drill a couple very small drain holes in the decking seams in those areas. A couple very small holes shouldn't be noticeable visually.

If you really want the deck board lines back I would be very careful attempting any option for fixing it, because a small slip with any tool will leave it looking messy and hard to correct. I wouldn't personally use a router or an oscillating tool. They are way too easy to go off course. If you decide to use something like a circular saw I would first try only going 1/4-3/8" deep with the blade. That might be plenty to get the "deck" look back. I would also only attempt something like that myself if there were rigid saw guides clamped to the deck on both sides of the circular saw, so if you hit a small rogue nail etc. with the blade it would be less likely to kick the saw off course while cutting. If you do it that way, you can also complete the job a lot faster with less chance of error. If you decide to cut the seams, drill the drain holes in the seams after cutting the seams so the drain holes end up completely hidden down in the cuts instead of possibly being slightly off and more visually noticeable.

A couple side notes. Think heavily before cutting down the seams, because if the Trex deck is a different color from the paint it might be noticeable when finished even if you try to paint over all of it later. Also, it might be all but impossible to round off the edges or rout out anything without scuffing, discoloring, burning, chipping, etc. the paint. The paint could easily gum up any blade you use within a couple feet of cut if you don't cut fast enough and/or if the paint is not very hard and dry. Also if you cut down into the seams that will create a hard paint edge on both sides of the cut which will become new starting points for the paint to begin peeling from in the future. Last but not least, if you go the circular saw route use the heaviest saw you can find (preferably an older worm drive saw) so you have the best chance possible at getting nice straight cuts.