Breaker Bars

[wantedabiggergarage]

My 1/4", I believe is an SK. My 3/8" is a Craftsman. I have at least two 1/2" models, one is an Indestro, and one is the 24" Snap-on purchased here. My 3/4" is an Armstrong that I got for around $10. I think I may have a couple more, but those are the ones that come to mind.

At the shop we use an old 18" Craftsman, that probably dates to the mid 60's. It feels a little heaftier then what they sell now.

 

[81Seca]

My 3/8 bars are Proto and Snap-On. The 12" Proto is a nice size for a 3/8 bar, but it almost seems flimsy next to the (shorter) Snap-On. The Snappy it seems would take more abuse. The 1/2 bars are Armstrong and Blackhawk. The Armstrong is a nice bar.

 

[48548]

Here is a picture that sums up my idea, pick up a proto 5849 ratchet for cheap on ebay and it is a 26 inch 1" ratchet, and put adapters on it to use as a breaker bar for 1/2 or 3/4. Next to it on the left is a 5689 3/4 ratchet about 20 inches and then on the right a 16inch 1/2 ratchet, 15 inch 1/2 breaker bar and then a 3/4 inch breaker bar(5668 and really strong looking) next to it a snap on 24 inch breaker bar. The 3/4 or 1" ratchet are much bigger than the snappy and especially the 3/4 breaker bar.

 

[fomocoforrester]

I dont like the lack of feel you get with the flex of a breaker bar used near its limit. The best solution I've found is to use a cheap 3/4 bar with a 3/4-1/2 adapter and an impact socket if there is a risk of overloading a regular socket.

 

[chappys4life]

I bought a harbor freight cheapy 1/2" to use in my car as a lug nut breaker to get rid of the crappy factory one and love it. I ended up buying another one for my toolbox and works so good its hard to replace it.

 

[Crasen]

I have a 3/8 Mac about 12" which is nice, a 15 inch 1/2 Williams which is great, very strong a 24 " 1/2 Bonney, I have not broken it yet but it bends so much it sure feels like it will. In 3/4 I have an Armstrong that feels invincible. I also have a couple HF 3/4 " breaker bars that have worked so far.

 

[Thumper]

I've got a 24 inch Snap-On, 3 or 4 old 18 inch Craftsman and a 18 inch Mustang. Never had a problem with any of them.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

I dont like the lack of feel you get with the flex of a breaker bar used near its limit. The best solution I've found is to use a cheap 3/4 bar with a 3/4-1/2 adapter and an impact socket if there is a risk of overloading a regular socket.

I was told years ago, there is a reason you can buy a x size socket in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" drive sizes. When it starts to flex, you swap sizes.

It does **** though that breaker bars aren't automatically included in everyone's sets nowdays.

 

[fomocoforrester]

I was told years ago, there is a reason you can buy a x size socket in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" drive sizes. When it starts to flex, you swap sizes.

It does **** though that breaker bars aren't automatically included in everyone's sets nowdays.

I agree with you - however, I was thinking of the situation where you are approaching the limit of a 1/2" drive system, and you have no 3/4" drive sockets to move up to, which I think would be the case for most people.

 

[jerk_chicken]

is 3/4" typically usable in cars or trucks? I haven't had the occasion to need one, but I don't have as much experience as some here.

 

[Hawk321]

@Jerk

3/4" is more for trucks...it depends on your fastener...for the most work is 1/2" ok...but if you need socket with more than 36mm...I would use 3/4.

 

[fomocoforrester]

is 3/4" typically usable in cars or trucks? I haven't had the occasion to need one, but I don't have as much experience as some here.

I can think of no requirements for 3/4 drive tools on car applications,but, as you say, maybe the more experienced members here can come up with some.

My original point was about avoiding flex or breakages of 1/2" drive breaker bars by using a cheap 3/4" breaker bar with good 1/2" drive sockets.

 

[Skyline]

Before I had a really high power impact gun, I would frequntly have to use a breaker bar for things like axle bolts. Even a small car can have 36mm or larger bolts, and with a bit of rust, the torque necessary to remove them car be enourmous. I've broken a few Craftsman bars like this. But what has never failed me is a 3/4" breaker bar I have that is basically 1" solid bar with a sliding head. This eliminates the flex joint that is usually the failure point of breaker bars. I have used this many times with a 5' cheater bar, and even jumped on the end of the bar. Sometimes the axle nuts win, but this combination has never broken. If this fails to take the nut off, it is time for the air chisel and a new nut.

 

[Art From De Leon]

The best of the best: 3/4" drive Snap On L8112A Breaker Bar Head, and the L872RM handle, (36 inches). In 1/2" drive: Snap On SN24C.
I would never think about busting my rather large a$$ by using anything but quality, name brand tools.

 

[64merc]

I can think of no requirements for 3/4 drive tools on car applications,but, as you say, maybe the more experienced members here can come up with some.

My original point was about avoiding flex or breakages of 1/2" drive breaker bars by using a cheap 3/4" breaker bar with good 1/2" drive sockets.

This is kind of what I was thinking recently. As a matter of fact I picked up a SO 3/4 breaker bar recently. It is only about 21" long, but that's where a pipe comes in handy. I would also like to pick up some smaller sized 3/4 drive sockets if I can.

 

[a390st]

3/4" drive is quite necessary if you ever do work on anything away from air, or if you are afraid that your impact will cause damage. I have had to use 3/4" many times, especially on suspensions. My work is mostly on 4x4, agricultural, and offroad equipment. 1/2" drive is sort of the minimum for a lot of jobs. I have had to use a 3/4" bar on 1" and larger fasteners very often. I have had to get the 1" impact out very often. Heck, I have seen lug nuts put on by a stupid ape that took a 3/4" bar with a 6' pipe to get off. The next step would have had to be more "invasive", shall we say. My policy is, if the 1/2" bar or impact won't get it loose without too much effort, go to the 3/4" bar or impact rather than break something.

A lot of times you can find older but nearly unused 3/4" sockets very cheap due to the fact that so few people use them. Most are 12 point chrome sockets made by good old US companies, many of which aren't around anymore.