Tool for creating fuel line barb fitting

[Jeeper]

Need to replace a fuel lines on an 83 Jeep CJ7. The fuel line has a barbed end where rubber fuel hose slips over and a hose clamp is used to prevent any disconnection.

Is there a tool that can create the barbed fitting on the steel fuel line? I'd like to bend up my own lines and hence would like to make a factory style barb.

 

[Mike007]

I don't know if the tool exists to do what you want.

If it's low pressure, the hose is commonly slipped right over the fuel line and hose clamped.

If it's higher pressure, I have brazed a brass barb fitting right to a steel line.

Or you could flare a fitting onto it and the go to the barb fitting with a coupling. I'm not a big fan of compression fittings, but a compression fitting to a coupling then barb fitting would probably work too.

 

[rlitman]

I think he's describing a "bubble flare". That's common on fuel line to rubber hose transitions (and heater hose too).

 

[jerryW]

I've used a double flare tool and just do the first part to make a bubble. Not factory but it does hold the line on.


jerry

 

[A_Pmech]

The usual tool for such work is the Parker beading tool.

A partial bubble flare works just as well though.

 

[Mike007]

You learn something new every day.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PMZMU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Jeeper]

The barb would be something like this:

The jeep is now EFI so that would have be taken into consideration. I don't want to go the route or slipping the rubber line over the hardline and clamp. Like the idea of the barb or bubble flair to help retain.

I may go "all in" with a mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. They make a die for it for GM transmission lines that looks a lot like a barb. Might be a worth while purchase....

 

[signcrafter]

Yep I've done transmission lines with a bubble flare and then slip the hose over and double clamp. I've wanted a mastercool set for a while now but have a hard time shelling out the cash for something I won't use much. They look amazing.

 

[rlitman]

The jeep is now EFI so that would have be taken into consideration.

Right, so use proper fuel injection clamps or oetiker clamps and not worm gear clamps.

 

[APEowner]

I use a compression fitting with a female NPT thread on the other end and then thread in a hose barb.

 

[Jeeper]

Right, so use proper fuel injection clamps or oetiker clamps and not worm gear clamps.

done. I have the fuel injection clips and rubber hose. Issue now is some of the hard fuel line has rot and is in need of replacing.

 

[Jeeper]

I went the mastercool flaring tool route. Looks like a nice tool. Now time to get some fuel line.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[bonneyman]

Let us know how this jig works on making a barb-type fitting. Would love to know how they come out and hold up to use.

 

[1oldtimer]

That tool is worth it's weight in gold, I have yet to make a bad flare.

 

[LEVE]

If the engine isn't fuel injected you don't need to get too fancy with the connectors. The simpler the better for field fixes. The CJ's series fuel PSI is about 4psi. Is the engine fuel injected?

 

[Jeeper]

If the engine isn't fuel injected you don't need to get too fancy with the connectors. The simpler the better for field fixes. The CJ's series fuel PSI is about 4psi. Is the engine fuel injected?

Yes, it has the Mopar EFI kit on it.

 

[Jeeper]

I've used a double flare tool and just do the first part to make a bubble. Not factory but it does hold the line on.


jerry

I was just playing around with the new flaring tool. I noticed that if you do just the first step on double flare it restricts the diameter of the opening to the tube. If I do the second step with the cone die, it opens it back up.

 

[n8n]

I've used a double flare tool and just do the first part to make a bubble. Not factory but it does hold the line on.


jerry

This. works fine for me. More importantly I like to use the "fuel injection" type clamps, and make sure the date code on the hose is recent (some really old hose might be kicking around NOS and if it isn't compatible with alcohol some bad juju can happen.)

 

[n8n]

I was just playing around with the new flaring tool. I noticed that if you do just the first step on double flare it restricts the diameter of the opening to the tube. If I do the second step with the cone die, it opens it back up.

I don't complete the first step, just put a little bit on the line so that as long as the line is "stuck" to the clamp it can't blow off.

 

[rlitman]

I don't complete the first step, just put a little bit on the line so that as long as the line is "stuck" to the clamp it can't blow off.

Yep, as A_Pmech pointed out above, it is a "partial" bubble. It's just to increase the diameter, not to seat and form a seal like a true bubble flare.

Anyway, you don't want it to open up so much that the hose gets damaged or overly stretched. You just want a shoulder that once the clamp is on, will not let the clamped part slip off.

This. works fine for me. More importantly I like to use the "fuel injection" type clamps, and make sure the date code on the hose is recent (some really old hose might be kicking around NOS and if it isn't compatible with alcohol some bad juju can happen.)

It's not the date that's the issue. Fuel hose that's not ethanol compatible is still made/sold. If it comes on a roll at the parts store, it's probably the wrong stuff. You need Fuel INJECTION Hose. It has a fluorinated lining (and at least 4 or 5 overall layers instead of the typical 3 in fuel hose) that is impervious to high pressure fuel. Expect to spend $4+ per foot if buying by the foot at the counter.
It's usually stocked next to the fuel injection clamps.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

I fix transmission lines like this all the time. rlitman said it first. You don't want to do the entire bubble. It will destroy the rubber line and eventually fail. I put the line in the flaring tool a little farther then if I were going to make a real flare. (practice makes perfect here) Insert the die and then give the handle about a half a turn, or until right after you can see the tube start to bubble out.

 

[lilredex]

Just replaced the fuel lines on my old Dodge (TBI) and paid $3.99 and $4.69/foot respectively, at CARQUEST, for 1/4" and 5/16 " rubber hose. Pay attention.....it says "fuel injection" right on the hose.

For the 5/16" hard line, I just made most of the double flare, as above, and it looked OK and worked OK with no reduction in internal size. The return line was also a 5/16" but was reduced to 1/4" on the ends. So to simplify, I cut off the old and soldered the reduced sections on (5/16" to 5/16") to the new line as those sections were still good. I tried to swage that new line, but it would have no part of that and cracked. So, I swaged a short section of soft copper and made a coupling to complete the joint.

 

[243]

The rubber hose is rated around 50psi, even GM TBI systems that run around 15psi have pumps that are close to 75psi, I was running an Airtex around 100psi on my previous Jeep, no failures but over time probably not the best idea.

I am working on a TBI system for a new project and ran new steel lines and double flared the ends planning to run rubber hoses to the fuel pump module and TB, until I checked the pressure rating. If you have been to a junkyard lately you may have noticed EFI vehicles are running nylon line.

Dorman makes barbed compression fittings, so I will cut the flares off and use those from the steel line to the pump module,

Nylon hose from Summit,

And quick connects from the nylon to the fuel pump module,

These parts will allow me to use the current carb, the TB after the conversion and last, the 5.3 when I get to the swap.

 

[6768rogues]

I either use the flaring tool to make a bubble in the line or I make a double flare and adapter fittings to a hose barb. Depends how much time I want to put into it.