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The VISES of Garage Journal

Hot Chop shop

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Apr 12, 2013
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Las Vegas
Yes, it's a Craftsman 506.51840. The 506 prefix identifies it as made by Columbian.



It's in rough shape, and missing the swivel base. But it should clean up nicely and look great in a new coat of paint. Might I suggest Arrest-ME-Red to keep Oldldh off your back ? :D


You guys are always so fast with that game of "can you identify this vise" .
Thanks for your help!
 
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McBrownie

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I don't know that the box and stamping on the vice are fake, but I'm not happy that it's not new like it's supposed to be, and they did a horrible job painting it. I have absolutely no "vice" experience and just took it apart and put it back together in five minutes. If this is a good vice I'll keep it and probably powder coat it, unless you guys think I shouldn't.

My first thought was that it has the original paint. A Scout is homeowner quality and I would not be surprised to learn that they sprayed them in the shortest amount of time possible. It certainly is a unique Scout with "backwards" action. I've never seen one like it. I bet not many survived. One good hammer blow on the dynamic, er I mean the static jaw, would probably be the end of it. I think you've stumbled across a rare original "survivor".
 

bigcaddy

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03bab4dc36e1a20db06855ae125dc460.jpg
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These are my extras I dont have a home for in the shop

Is that little lathe on your bench a Craftsman?
 

ScottsRX

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Nangkita, South Australia
I thought I better include myself in this great thread. I picked up these three girls a couple of weeks back for less than $100 each.

There's two Dawn 4 1/2" in red and a Dawn 6" in blue. I actually bought them with only seeing one poorly taken picture so I didn't expect to get the 6". I though they were all 4 1/2 or less.

I'll attempt to clean one of the 4 1/2s up for a bench and the 6 will go onto a stand. The third I think will end up in a mates shed.

The lonely one in the backgorund is a spare one of my dads.

eCIQJQ.jpg

JRSiNc.jpg

fbaf8p.jpg

AF5GT9.jpg
 
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Grigg

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Jul 31, 2010
Messages
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Lexington, VA
I was scrolling through here and I got a question about the older Prentiss vise.
I saw this on the smaller one. The flat screw and piece of metal holding the screw in place.
19d85635c27b04daff172c3c542e1909.jpg

So I have a old num 19. But I don't have that piece. Is this normal on the 19 or am I missing it.
f2fa6a38a129c5aaf414df7c1fb4bc45.jpg

Two different ways of doing it.
The large vise has a collar with a set screw to retain the screw in the moving jaw. The small vise uses a clip that fits in a groove in the screw
 

drivesitfar

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Trecash: looks like you came to the vise thread with an arsenal of vises (vices). i see a Polish, a Reed, some Prentiss and a few others. care to share what the vises (vices) are on your shelf and in your shop? also welcome to Garage Journal and looks like you'll fit in nicely to teach us a few more things.

Scott: great line up of Dawn vices. they look like they will work out great in your shop. build the stand plenty stout for the 6 incher so you can maybe put one of your race cars in it. welcome to the Journal too

ALL: so i was looking up the Yellow vice with the leg under it that was under Mac's pipe bender vise he posted yesterday and the leg on it is actually a foot pedal to tighten the vice and maybe loosen it too. anybody have one to post more pictures of or tell us how it works?

i also found what i think is a big 6 inch Leinen vice holding a part for this "HUGE" torque wrench to give a strength test. this is why we need big vises and it looks like he barely tightened it. biggest wrench i think I've ever seen and it didn't break the vice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBFlM7n-PVQ

enjoy
 

drivesitfar

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TreCash: it looks like a great 8 inch Record vice and you got the one actually made in England. i'm guessing maybe late 90's or early 2000's.

also you might want to attach your pictures by using the paperclip above where you are writing if possible that works like an email and posts thumbnail pictures we can click on to get bigger if we want to.

I'm sure you will have a few of us vice guys asking to have you ship that to them because it's a great vise. does it have the quick release mechanism?
 

FMC1959

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Trecash: looks like you came to the vise thread with an arsenal of vises (vices). i see a Polish, a Reed, some Prentiss and a few others. care to share what the vises (vices) are on your shelf and in your shop? also welcome to Garage Journal and looks like you'll fit in nicely to teach us a few more things.

Scott: great line up of Dawn vices. they look like they will work out great in your shop. build the stand plenty stout for the 6 incher so you can maybe put one of your race cars in it. welcome to the Journal too

ALL: so i was looking up the Yellow vice with the leg under it that was under Mac's pipe bender vise he posted yesterday and the leg on it is actually a foot pedal to tighten the vice and maybe loosen it too. anybody have one to post more pictures of or tell us how it works?

i also found what i think is a big 6 inch Leinen vice holding a part for this "HUGE" torque wrench to give a strength test. this is why we need big vises and it looks like he barely tightened it. biggest wrench i think I've ever seen and it didn't break the vice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBFlM7n-PVQ

enjoy

I did not quite understand everything they were trying to do, but they got it up to 2000 NM which translates roughly to 1475 foot pounds. Torque not being my specialty, but sounds like a lot! That vise, the nut in the vise and that wrench look like they a held up pretty well.
 

oldldh

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Balane---

As I predicted...

Your "Kermitized" 1750 is a "must have"...:thumbup:

An Extreme Green aficionado will get it...:drool:

Over five days left, and over $ 250.00 already...:beer:

WOW!!!
 

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EOC_Jason

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I did not quite understand everything they were trying to do, but they got it up to 2000 NM which translates roughly to 1475 foot pounds. Torque not being my specialty, but sounds like a lot! That vise, the nut in the vise and that wrench look like they a held up pretty well.

They were actually testing the strength of their tool holder. Usually drills or end-mills or such are just held in there by a set-screw. If the bit starts spinning in the tool holder while milling a part, bad things can happen.
 

hobkirk

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Hello - First post (moved here as suggested), yard sale find, I learned enough here to get started, but I'd like to learn more, including advice on "restore" or "don't restore," suggested starting price if I put it on eBay, etc.

I used to have an auto repair shop (14 years, 3 techs, VW/Audi/Porsche) but now I'm mostly woodworking. But I buy (and sometimes sell) all kinds of tools. This vise was an obvious "buy." The lever wouldn't turn, but the overall condition seemed excellent. After lugging it out of the car, my first step was to weigh it. 32-33? What? I'm not that weak! Oh, two scales. 72#.

The first pics show how I got it. A few hours later I managed to "penetrate" the slide free. The Acme nut solution and the front bearing both impressed me.

I cleaned up the slide surfaces (NOTE: I have not removed the front bearing yet - I just found a post ["Black Reed"] that taught me how.) I've scoured most of the painted surface with a brass brush. After I remove the bearing, I will clean the screw and the top of the slide better.

  1. How much farther should I go if I plan to sell it?
    • The mesh floor in my friend's sandblaster is too weak, so I'd need to pay to get it bead blasted.
    • I do have phosphoric acid which removes rust quite well, but I don't know what it does to paint.
    • I have not been able to figure out what the white stuff is. It seems like it must be paint, but I used a steel brush on the jaw face with virtually no effect. And it didn't want to be scraped off with a screwdriver. But I admit I haven't even spent 10 minutes on it, so I'm just musing out loud.
  2. What's a minimum price for something like this? I can't find my notes on items sold, but my recollection is it should be around $150. (I realize $2/pound is way above "everything about vises" thread!)

FWIW - I really like tools, I really like this vise, and I'm torn about selling it. My current big vise is one of those 5" Chinese pieces of junk. But I use it rarely, it has a swivel base, pipe clamps, and an anvil, all of which I do use on occasion. Shop space is limited - I have my current vise on a dolly I modified with massive reinforcement. I somewhat feel that this Reed Vise should go to someone who will be able to use it more - sorry, I am not taking applications! It pleases me more when I see a guy who frequently drives his 1966 Corvette 427 than the guy who has it stored. That said, the jury is still out on whether I keep it or sell it.

And I realize this was an excellent find. I often get lucky, and this is an example. Last month it was a Stanley #3 bench plane, about 1911, with most of the original decal on the handle still intact. 3 months ago, a 1970 VW camper tent. Next month? A 427 Corvette would be nice...

Thank you for reading, comments, suggestions.

PS - As a newcomer, I'd like to say I was very impressed by all the info I found on vises AND confused by everything being in one thread instead of having its own forum. But I did get here!
 

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balane

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Over five days left, and over $ 250.00 already...:beer:

It had 50 watchers in the first day so I think it did get some interest. As is typical with eBay auctions I don't expect any more action until the end. That's just how it usually is. Action on the first day and last 60 seconds. The rest of the time is used to build up watchers.

The best I've done on a 1750 was this red Snap On and it went for $340. I'm really curious if the extreme green one can beat it.

.
 

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joe.striper

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agawam, ma
Just comng back from my MA to PA trip today and I picked up these hitchhikers.

From L-R: Craftsman 5176 ($25), Wilton C-0 (65) and a Parker 23X (70). Seller threw in the small clamp on Craftsan as well as a 3/4" breaker bar.

Wilton is excellent shape save for the crappy black paimt! No markings other than #s on jaws as is typical but does not say C-0. Slide dated 10/74
 

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joe.striper

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It had 50 watchers in the first day so I think it did get some interest. As is typical with eBay auctions I don't expect any more action until the end. That's just how it usually is. Action on the first day and last 60 seconds. The rest of the time is used to build up watchers.

The best I've done on a 1750 was this red Snap On and it went for $340. I'm really curious if the extreme green one can beat it.

.

I hope it does do better. Im about to post my 1760. College bills. Thank God its my last year.
 
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FMC1959

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Hello - First post (moved here as suggested), yard sale find, I learned enough here to get started, .......confused by everything being in one thread instead of having its own forum. But I did get here!

An exposed screw Reed, not something you see everyday. Definitely on the rare side, but that doesn't determine value. I think you can get some interest for it, I personally like it.

I think many on this thread would say you won't get rich selling vises. There are some high priced crazy asking prices on eBay, but they sit.

Saiga who posted his on your other thread, is beautiful with it's natural patina and all. Your need a good scraping to get the rust off, and looks like it is missing the Reed name plate. Maybe better to re-paint? Could look really nice (ask Balane for tips).

You could just clean it up really well and then decide it looks good enough and then give a shot of linseed oil, or if it looks ratty, re-paint it.
 

drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hobkirk: i agree with FMC that is one good looking old Reed open screw vise. i might clean it up and put the boiled linseed oil on it like Jason EOC did a few pages back on the Reed 4C he is cleaning up. welcome to GJ and hope you stick around to teach us some of what you know and maybe learn something too.

FMC: my German isn't very good either, but i have yet to find a tool they make that i didn't like a lot. thanks for the math on the PSI those two guys hanging off the 8 foot torque bar were creating.

Jason: nice call on the video saying they are testing a part. Damn big wrench to test with if you ask me and amazing holding power of the part and the vise.

All: i sent the German yellow vise over to the "old world tool thread" and Monte knew who makes that vise. it's a German company and here is the link if anybody can tell us if the post is a jaw opener and closer or how much it is?

sold in Germany by "Optimum"
http://www.optimum-maschinen.de/produkte/1/index.html
 

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Outlawmws

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HobKirk, Look up the threads on Electrolysis. An E tank is IMO the best way to get the rust and old paint off without messing up the patina. I'm not a fan of sand bead or media basting for old tools... I can always tell (assuming there is any exposed metal) and simply walk away.

Paint is mostly completely removed, unless the paint seas laid on perfectly with perfect prep. Rattle can stuff often come off in sheets.

Nice find! Exposed screw vises generally get minimal respect, but that Reed of yours is a definite exception.
 

FMC1959

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drivesitfar;4185970[B said:
All[/B]: i sent the German yellow vise over to the "old world tool thread" and Monte knew who makes that vise. it's a German company and here is the link if anybody can tell us if the post is a jaw opener and closer or how much it is?

sold in Germany by "Optimum"
http://www.optimum-maschinen.de/produkte/1/index.html

No surprise there, he has to be the "Tim the Tool Man Taylor" of Europe (meant as a compliment :) )
 

HucFinn

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North Carolina
Hi All,

Here's the story. When my father passed, my mother wanted all us "kids" to go through his workshop to claim his things before she considered selling what remained. I picked up a rusty old bench vise because I didn't have one back at my house. Having done some restoration of cast iron cookware, I used electrolysis to clean it up. Issues: 1) Its slide had been pounded on, so it needed some filing to get the jaws to separate; 2) one of its jaw plates was missing; 3) the swivel base lock was broken.

When all was said and done, I ended up with a really great Columbian 143 1/2:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/Stevorama/Vises/Columbian1435.jpg

I may use the one jaw plate to have a second one fabricated, or I may try to use a Prentiss plate assuming I can find a match.

The swivel base lock that I find on the older Columbians of this type are not a locking arm like mine. They all seem to be loose pin locks. I found only one other brand of vise using this type when looking at eBay: a Samson vice.
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h116/Stevorama/Vises/Samson.jpg

I put the original base lock back on it. Right now, I just turn it with a C-wrench. Does anyone know where I might find a replacement base lock and/or jaw plate? :headscrat Thanks!
 
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McBrownie

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Cleveland, OH
Hi All,

Here's the story. When my father passed, my mother wanted all us "kids" to go through his workshop to claim his things before she considered selling what remained. I picked up a rusty old bench vise because I didn't have one back at my house.

I put the original base lock back on it. Right now, I just turn it with a C-wrench. Does anyone know where I might find a replacement base lock and/or jaw plate? :headscrat Thanks!

An heirloom vise! I wish I had my dad's old vise. It was a similar open screw model. There are members here who can help you with replacement parts. Try pm'ing RitzBlitz and KMScott for starters.
 

hobkirk

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Aug 21, 2014
Messages
8
HobKirk, Look up the threads on Electrolysis. An E tank is IMO the best way to get the rust and old paint off without messing up the patina. I'm not a fan of sand bead or media basting for old tools... I can always tell (assuming there is any exposed metal) and simply walk away.

Paint is mostly completely removed, unless the paint seas laid on perfectly with perfect prep. Rattle can stuff often come off in sheets.

Nice find! Exposed screw vises generally get minimal respect, but that Reed of yours is a definite exception.

Useful info. I came here to learn.

OK, so bead blasting turns you off (I could see that) but it doesn't bother you to remove the original paint?

"Exposed screw vises..." - Hmmm, that had not registered in my brain. So I checked eBay listings (vise Reed) and low and behold, the screw is enclosed by the slide mechanism in EVERY case! Now that I think about it, it's obvious that it would be good to keep shop dirt and grit from getting on the screw, so the exposed screw is not good. Is that because it's an earlier or cheaper design?

PS - YOU are THE MAN! My second post was on your shed. We are obviously destined to something!
 

EOC_Jason

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"Exposed screw vises..." - Hmmm, that had not registered in my brain. So I checked eBay listings (vise Reed) and low and behold, the screw is enclosed by the slide mechanism in EVERY case! Now that I think about it, it's obvious that it would be good to keep shop dirt and grit from getting on the screw, so the exposed screw is not good. Is that because it's an earlier or cheaper design?

The threads are coarse enough where they can tolerate some debris, but you wouldn't want to use them in an environment where they could get like a bunch of small shavings in them.

I think generally you see small ones classified as household grade, but I *think* too you see blacksmiths use them. You do gain rigidity by having the screw outside the slide, and the slide can be more solid than one that has the enclosed screw.

You can still find open-screw vises being made today.
 

Outlawmws

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Useful info. I came here to learn.

OK, so bead blasting turns you off (I could see that) but it doesn't bother you to remove the original paint?

"Exposed screw vises..." - Hmmm, that had not registered in my brain. So I checked eBay listings (vise Reed) and low and behold, the screw is enclosed by the slide mechanism in EVERY case! Now that I think about it, it's obvious that it would be good to keep shop dirt and grit from getting on the screw, so the exposed screw is not good. Is that because it's an earlier or cheaper design?

PS - YOU are THE MAN! My second post was on your shed. We are obviously destined to something!

Generally the paint is either not original to begin, or there is not enough of it left (if any...) to matter. I can count on one hand he number of vises I simply cleaned up and called it good. most were rode hard and put away wet (*and the rust verifies that analogy...)

On the Exposed screws, it's mostly because 99.99% of them weigh < 15, most < 10 lbs, and are easily broken. use withing there capabilities, they are fine. but DON"T EXCEED IT!

I've had one on my welding bench that has been my 'ground clamp" and part positioner for > 20 years, chosen mostly because its fast and opens abnormally wide for an open screw. (My welding bench is an old craftsman 3 drawer roller with 1/2" plate on top and a fold down side shelf that no longer folds, and that is where the vise is.)

I believe most of the larger open screw vises are turn of the (Last) century or earlier, certainly not much past the 30's for the most part. Certainly it probably has some history to the old blacksmith vise designs.

ps: and thanks!
 

McBrownie

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Ok, so no Parker 974 pictures on page 974, no 976's on page 976. One more chance coming up on page 978. Calling all Parker 978 owners! We need your pictures!:willy_nil
 

EOC_Jason

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I believe most of the larger open screw vises are turn of the (Last) century or earlier, certainly not much past the 30's for the most part. Certainly it probably has some history to the old blacksmith vise designs.

That is the one thing that gets me. That is the flat-nose style Reed with the adjustable front collar. Those didn't come into existence until like late 30's?
 

zoomieport

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The Mall City
That is the one thing that gets me. That is the flat-nose style Reed with the adjustable front collar. Those didn't come into existence until like late 30's?

Patent applied for in Jan. 1936, granted in Aug. 1938.
That's an interesting one for sure...
 
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hobkirk

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Aug 21, 2014
Messages
8
Reed Vise 134 1/2 R - Post 2

I removed the screw (the bearing impressed me), finished a rough cleaning, waxed the bare metal, and then oiled things (Mobil 1 motor oil). I reassembled everything but disassembly is now about a 5 minute process.

A couple of disassembled pics, jaw alignment, and the SMOOTHLY working vice, still dripping with patina (maybe).

But I don't know what restricts the vise from unscrewing too far. I must have removed a "stop" somewhere, but I don't remember where. HELP?

Thank you for your comments
 

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Woodtick

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90
I'm calling this Wilton done and ready for takeoff. Now for the next one.....
Rich
 

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oldldh

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Well that totally screws my "educated" guess as to age... :dunno:

Brother Hobkirk---

Make a note...mark the date...:bounce:

Outlaw's "educated" guess was wrong!!!:lol_hitti

It doesn't happen very often...:dunno:

(I don't know where the photo is, but there is a Reed 136 or 137 around here somewhere...):drool:
 

autopts

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Messages
2,268
Just comng back from my MA to PA trip today and I picked up these hitchhikers.

From L-R: Craftsman 5176 ($25), Wilton C-0 (65) and a Parker 23X (70). Seller threw in the small clamp on Craftsan as well as a 3/4" breaker bar.

Wilton is excellent shape save for the crappy black paimt! No markings other than #s on jaws as is typical but does not say C-0. Slide dated 10/74

Nice haul Joe!
 
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