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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

Carla

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Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Back to lubrication thoughts. It is the one open item I know I have. I have a few greases laying around I may use if they aren't bad for the application but last night I had a strange thought and I wanted to get the input of the collected vise genii. When I was restoring an old tool box several people recommended Bee's Wax for lubing the slides. This worked great. I was just wondering if this might also work on the exposed portions of the slide to prevent dirt and grit from sticking to the grease and causing build up? Would this be a sufficient lube? Thanks in advance for the help.

Hi, Jeremy,

Yes, you could use bees wax, if you like, and it should work for the purpose.

The reality of maintenence on a common bench vise, at least in metalworking work, is that they attract dirt, grime, metal filings, and abrasive particles from sanding/polishing. Those abrasives could imbed in bees wax, just as they would form an abrasive slurry in oil, so you can't avoid the necessity for reasonably frequent removal of the contaminant materials.

The way to keep a vise in good preservation, if used in metalworking, is to have it apart, clean the parts, apply a reasonable amount of good machine oil to every place where parts work against one another, and re-assemble.

The important consideration is cleaning, to get rid of the abrasive grime, which wears any metal surfaces which see loadings in use, and replace the grime with clean oil.

If one hasn't a ball thrust-bearing on the vise screw, as is most common, using a light grease or a graphite-and-oil mix on the thrust bearing area is prudent. Again, the important issue is that of adequately frequent cleaning, as a mixture of existing oiliness and filings, or abrasive dust from the work done, will badly wear the bearing surfaces.

Fitting a shielded type ball thrust-bearing, and oiling that bearing, makes the vise more 'user-friendly'......and concentrates the clamping wear on the bearing, which is easily replaceable.

cheers

Carla
 
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Carla

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Nov 27, 2010
Messages
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Carla: thanks again for the awesome pictures of another Reed you put your magic touch on to make it look that good. while i don't understand all you are saying about the machining of the swivel jaw pin and hole i bet a ton of members do and thanks for sharing. I'm thinking of changing one of the MISC. to MACHINING and then referencing the posts that have that information. it might end up being a bit difficult to keep up with once all this takes off, but I'll do my best. thoughts on how to document these type of pages if not that method are appreciated.
in the meantime keep posting information like this when you are able and especially with pictures because they sometimes tell it all.

Hi, DIF,

I thank you for the nice compliment, but there's no 'magic touch'......all I did was to follow the common practice of the old toolmakers, who, as a generality, were 'finicky' about their tooling.

Added on edit.......as you see, the bit of flaking which I did......and did a bit sloppily, actually.....on the vise slides is purely cosmetic. What does matter is doing that same class of flaking on the underside of the front jaw, where it isn't seen, but saves wear on the working surfaces by holding oil in microscopic areas, the same reason why the doves and flats of the bearing surfaces of machine tools are flaked'.....or 'chip-blocked' to form the little areas which retain the oil.

(my flaking was sloppy cos I tried to do it quickly......a bad go, that.....flaking or chip-blocking correctly done looks much better, and.....more importantly, in this application, tends to hide existing pitting, scoring, scratches and abuse marks.)

cheers

Carla
 
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JeremyBurke

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Nov 5, 2013
Messages
609
Location
Near Portland, OR
Carla, thank you so much. I'm learning a lot from many of you who have experience. I'm mostly looking to reduce costly or foolish mistakes and extend the life of my tools. Thanks again for your help and advise. Cheers, Jeremy
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,032
Location
Pacific Northwest
Carla: thanks again for sharing your knowledge. it may have been a simple machining method for you and your old school machinists, but I don't see that work around here and haven't in my 60 years.

i'd love to find a guy that can do that and maybe my 80 year old machinist friend is capable of doing that and i didn't know about it to ask. also i really like that the oils have a places to hang onto so the slide always has a little lubrication on it.

also thanks for the maintenance tips on keeping our vises in good working order.

i just changed one of my Misc. sections to Machinist posts and i hope you like it or let me know what i can change either in a PM or a quick post.

we'd all love to have any more of your thoughts or good words and pictures as you are able.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
Messages
16,939
Carla, one thing I wanted to ask earlier, and I don't think you touched on, did you sleeve the handle hole in the screw eye for a tigher fit? It looks (to me) like there is an insert bushing to take up slack. If so, would you mind sharing some details on how you did that without removing the handle? I know some make like Prentiss seem to have a sloppier fit than others between the handle and screw eye, but the fit on yours seems to be extremely tight, plus it looks like a sleeve has been inserted. :dunno:

103r2.jpg
 

Clamp Man

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Jul 9, 2014
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3
Location
Chicago
Jorgensen makes a "made-in-U.S.A." woodworker's vise, in two sizes.

Pony imports a line of vises.

I can help with parts and info. on any of these....

Hope this helps, thanks
Jim
 

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Carla

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Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Carla, one thing I wanted to ask earlier, and I don't think you touched on, did you sleeve the handle hole in the screw eye for a tigher fit? It looks (to me) like there is an insert bushing to take up slack. If so, would you mind sharing some details on how you did that without removing the handle? I know some make like Prentiss seem to have a sloppier fit than others between the handle and screw eye, but the fit on yours seems to be extremely tight, plus it looks like a sleeve has been inserted. :dunno:

Hi, zkling,

Yes, I'd bushed the vise screw, but had forgotten about doing that until you just now reminded me.

So.....here's the story. The Reed works, and some other vise makers, at some time-frames, chose to make the enlarged end of the vise screw by casting iron over the screw, in the.....presumably, as I don't actually know just how they did this.....same way that they cast the jaws with the jaw steels welded to the jaw castings.

In this instance, the hole for the vise handle was worn, and the handle bent.

The correct repair was to shrink-fit a steel bushing into the enlarged iron end of the screw, and make a replacement handle.

The screw end was glass-blasted to clean it, and the diameter of the hole for the handle was found with gage-pins. A short scrap of steel was turned to that diameter, with one end turned to 1/2" to be held in the collet of the vertical mill.

This pin, in the mill spindle, was used to locate the vise screw for boring, simply holding the vise screw on the pin, and bringing the mill vise into alignment with it.

In this specific instance, the handle diameter was 7/16" nominal. I bored the vise screw to a few thou under 5/8", noting the bore dia as read with a gage-pin.

I don't remember this particular one, but I'd probably have used a stray grade 8 bolt as turning stock for the bushing, as those are an easy source of good steel....a bit of a salvaged automotive half-shaft is another easy source of good steel.

The correct shrink fit for steel going into cast iron in that size range would be half a thou, varying slightly under if anything. (a usual shrink is .001 per inch of diameter, but one must be careful with small cast iron parts, lest they crack on cooling.)

The bush was turned to the required O.D., and bored/reamed 7/16"+002.

The screw was then heated, just not quite hot enough to show colour, and the bushing, which had been chilled in CO2 snow, was placed.

After cooling, the bush was filed level with the 'ball' surface of the screw, its bore deburred with a c'sink, and the area polished a little.

I used common 7/16" drill round for the handle, and might have had to touch out the bore with a hone a little bit, for the handle stock to slide freely, with an easy slide fit.

I made the 7/8" dia. ball ends of the handle from led-loy (free-machining mild steel) with a 7/16" radius form tool, in the lathe.

The technique for that was to begin by cutting the handle to length, then turning the ends down to .005 under 3/8", .370, for a bit over 7/8" length of turn.. After cutting a 'runout' groove for the threading tool, I ran 3/8-24 threads, on the handle ends.

The handle ball ends were formed by chucking a scrap of 7/8" round stock, drilling/tapping 3/8-24, then turning the radius with a form tool, leaving a 7/16" dia flat, qty 2. They were parted off a bit over 7/8" length, and, one at a time, were wound on to the handle, and the 'other half' of the ball-end was cut in place on the handle, with the form tool, then polished.

When the handle was assembled to the vise screw, the ball ends were simply clamped with a brass bush to avoid scarring. One end was assembled with Loctite, the other with just a touch of Glyptal, to allow easy removal if ever needed.

A more practical way to do this would have been to use commercial 7/8" dia steel balls, simply held for drilling/tapping in a brass or copper bushing, to protect the finish. At the time I did up that little vise, I didn't have a good local source, and those cheap parts would have been two weeks out on order, so I improvised.

On some other vise handles I did, one time and another, I used commercial brass balls for the ends, just to 'look pretty', when nicely polished out.......and quite regret telling about this detail on another internet board, some time ago, where the sexist boy-children there made some rather impolite comments about that.....we've none of those here, right?

I think I've read mention of some of the members here who plan to offer commercial vise 'rebuild' or 'restoration' services, for those who aren't machinists.......presumably, someone who has CNC machining capability will be able to offer a range of replacement vise handles, at some reasonable price level.

cheers

Carla
 

Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
Messages
6,871
Location
Near Salem, OR
DIF, you can now add Trojan to your vise brand list. Saw this on the Portland, OR Craigslist:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/tls/4563062133.html

This vise looks familiar, and I'll bet it was made by one of the major makers for a reseller. I can't tell if the notch in the back of the fixed jaw is damage or made that way. :dunno:
 

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Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
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Near Salem, OR
Carla, I really enjoyed your most recent post, as it is an excellent explanation of not only how you repaired the Reed, but also why you chose to do it that way. It isn't easy to explain how a machinist repairs a broken part, much less why it is done that way!

Since we are telling secrets, I also find Grade 8 bolts to be choice raw material. I much prefer Caterpillar bolts if I can get them, as I have found that they machine easily and produce a fine finish. Many Cat dealers and used machinery parts places will sell you a bucket of good used bolts for reasonable price. They sometimes give you a better deal on a bucket of longer bolts since those are in less demand than the shorter ones! I pick through the bucket and scrap the ones that won't clean up easily. I also find that truck air brake cam shafts make good raw material.

Keep posting as some of us learn something each time you do. Thanks for sharing your wisdom. :bowdown:
 

va.grouseman

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Southern-Central VA.
Continued from page two.

Star of Bethlehem 140 and 150------------------------------Page 360, 607, 1157
Parkinsons---Model-F---Perfect Vise------------------------ Page 360, 362, 805, 889
Star of David / Bethlehem---Made in Japan-----------------Page 360, 607, 1157
Hoar---Offset Vise------------------------------------------Page 361
Parkinson's---Ball Based Vise--------------------------------Page 362, Page 1403
Wards Lakeside-----------------------------------------------Page 362
FORTIS----UNBREAKABLE-------------------------------------Page 362
FORTIS----STEEL--------------------------------------------Page 362
A.JA.X----UNBREAKABLE--------------------------------------Page 362
Williamson MFG. Co.---Rotating Vise----------------------------Page 364
Massey Clincher-----------------------------------------------Page 366
Yankee-------------------------------------------------------Page 371
King Fuller----------------------------------------------------Page 382
Blue-Point----------------------------------------------------Page 384
Veit Young---------------------------------------------------Page 385
American Scale---N&B RR---350+ lbs.---8 3/8 jaws------------Page 390
Snap-on---Drop Forged---------------------------------------Page 391
Falcon---Canadian--------------------------------------------Page 399
GG Super Leone---Italian--------------------------------------Page 399
Belknap---Blue Grass Vise-------------------------------------Page 399, 400
Clifford Peterson Tool Co.-------------------------------------Page 408
Vertical Crank Vise--------------------------------------------Page 409
L.M.& V. Co.---Star 55----------------------------------------Page 412,466, 767
Groz----------------------------------------------------------Page 413
Marshall Valstar---Japan---------------------------------------Page 415
Round and Square Stock Vise----------------------------------Page 432, 551
Allens Anvil Vise-----------------------------------------------Page 433
Luther--------------------------------------------------------Page 433, 525, 645, 646
Miniature Keystone--------------------------------------------Page 433, 438
Romanian 150mm----------------------------------------------Page 437
Ace Apex---Rotating Vise--------------------------------------Page437
Larin---Rotating Vise------------------------------------------Page 437,442, 784, 817
Brinks & Cotton-----------------------------------------------Page 438, 898
Boley Watchmaker Vise----------------------------------------Page439
Fray Mershon Inc.---All Angle Vise-----------------------------Page 441
Sawyer---Rotating Vise---------------------------------------Page 445
Hot Rod Cutter Vise-------------------------------------------Page 447
Champion Blower & Forge Co.---Anvil Vise----------------------Page 452
Rock Island---Anvil Vise---------------------------------------Page 452
Wilton---Wilomatic Hydrolic Vise-------------------------------Page 455, 495
Wilton Juno---------------------------------------------------Page 460
Karas Electric Co.---------------------------------------------Page 461
Oswego tool Co.----------------------------------------------Page 461
Erie Tool Co.--------------------------------------------------Page 461
Olympia------------------------------------------------------Page 462
American-----------------------------------------------------Page 463, 794
Yost 99------------------------------------------------------Page 463
Veit & young--------------------------------------------------Page 465
Superior Nickel Chrome---Rotating Vise-------------------------Page 468
Fuller---------------------------------------------------------Page 466
Cole Tool Mfg.------------------------------------------------Page 470
H. B. Smith Co.-----------------------------------------------Page 474
Velox---------------------------------------------------------Page 479
National------------------------------------------------------Page 481
Dodge Slide Set-----------------------------------------------Page 482, 626, 696, 697, 747
Chief----------------------------------------------------------Page 482, 688
King---Rotating Vise-------------------------------------------Page 489
Prentiss---The Gipsy-------------------------------------------Page 489
Grand Specialties Co.---Grand Vise Master----------------------Page 494, 946
Jet-----------------------------------------------------------Page 495, 1103
Sealey--------------------------------------------------------Page 495
York----------------------------------------------------------Page 497
Massey Perfect-------------------------------------------------Page 500, 1161
Tarounio Tool And Die----Machinist Vise------------------------Page 507
Allied---------------------------------------------------------Page 508
Pewe----Sweden----------------------------------------------Page 511
Joplin----Australian--------------------------------------------Page 512
I A----England------------------------------------------------Page 516
Jordan--------------------------------------------------------Page 522
Ridgid / Peddinghaus----Matador / Superior---------------------Page 523
Col. Hdwe.----Clev'd. O.---------------------------------------Page 523
Ludell---------------------------------------------------------Page 524, 633, 860, 1106,1235
Champion-----------------------------------------------------Page 525
Irwin----------------------------------------------------------Page 527
Fulton Peerless------------------------------------------------Page 528
Mercury-------------------------------------------------------Page 529, 568, 1112, 1160
Maryborough Shipyard-----------------------------------------Page 534
Anchor--------------------------------------------------------Page 534
Acme Tool Co.-------------------------------------------------Page 536
AM & F Co.----Pipe Vise---Like the Vanderman------------Page 541, 1199
The Vanderman Mfg. Co.---------------------------------------Page 546, 1157
Schlegel EMF 125---Germany-----------------------------------Page 546, 549, 895
Versa-Vise-----------------------------------------------------Page 554
Colton---------------------------------------------------------Page 554
Fulton Anvil Vise------------------------------------------------Page 561
Precision Built--------------------------------------------------Page 567
Schlegel, EMF-125----Germany---------------------------------Page 568, 792
Rotating Bicycle Vise-------------------------------------------Page 568, 1074
Gibraltar-------------------------------------------------------Page 571
Emmert Tiger--------------------------------------------------Page 579, Page 1366
Craftsman Rotating Vise----------------------------------------Page 581, 582
Prentiss Shepard----------------------------------------------Page 584
Standard---Stationary and Swivel 716E---------------------Page 584, 1075, 1153, 1160
Old Record----------------------------------------------------Page 587
Columbian Plate Steel Vise-------------------------------------Page 587, Page 1403
Foot Operated Vise--------------------------------------------Page 589
H & B----George A. Colton, Pattern Holder---------------------Page 590, 592
J. S. & Co.----------------------------------------------------Page 595, 628
Whitney Metal Tool Co.----------------------------------------Page 596
Casa Grande--------------------------------------------------Page 598
Samson Jr.----------------------------------------------------Page 598
Lewis---------------------------------------------------------Page 599, page 1366
Black & Decker----Workmate 7''--Quick Vise--------------------Page 600
National Sewing Company----Vindex----------------------------Page 601, 605
Cummings Rotating Vise----------------------------------------Page 601, 606
Dawn Machinist Vise-------------------------------------------Page 602, 672
G. M. & T. Co.-------------------------------------------------Page 610
R.B.-----------------------------------------------------------Page 611
Made in USA---------------------------------------------------Page 620, 621
Versa-Vise-----------------------------------------------------Page 623
H. B. Smith Co.-------------------------------------------------Page 618, 777, 1109
Meadville Vise Co.----------------------------------------------Page 628
Drillia Canada Vise----------------------------------------------Page 632
Star Gold------------------------------------------------------Page 635
Ball Base, Rotating Vise-----------------------------------------Page 638
Rotating Bicycle Vise-------------------------------------------Page 638, 654













Continued below----Post #98
 
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drivesitfar

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Oct 23, 2013
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VA: sorry the heat must have been getting to me because no AC in my house or shop and it's in the 80's and 90's here in Seattle this month. that said i know you posted a list earlier in the thread that i posted those to the #2 post showing the information.

is this that list with more added? at what point do i need to input the new information? thanks again for doing this and you can post any of your vises where you've even just taken them apart to lube and put together because you have more than a few good looking vises.

Provincial: thanks for the post and i did see that Trojan in Portland that looks like someone took a bite out of the static's back section. i see VA has a Tucker vise on his list too so maybe there is another Tucker vise to see if that is a design or a broken vise.

All: here is a list of American scale vises that was accumulated by a member of GJ and if you want to do one for a particular brand and post it please do if it is as complete as you think it can be. if anybody reads this and sees something that they can add please make a post and i'll try to update the list. thanks

American Scale vises

No2: open screw, anvil horn, round knob, opens about 2 3/4 inches, swivel base
No3: open screw, anvil horn, round knob
No4: 4" jaw, open screw, anvil horn, round knob, swivel base

N010: 3 3/4" jaw, 5" opening, 31lbs, fixed base, round knob
No15: covered screw, round knob, might have a swivel base
No30: small vise, small anvil, horn, cylinder knob, open screw
No40: small vise w/pipe jaws, anvil, horn , open screw
No45: similar to No4
No50: open screw, swivel base, anvil/horn, 5” jaw, 40lbs
No50C (or 500): same as No50
No55: no info

No20: weird anvil vise wi/drilling hole through dyn jaw 43lbs
No5: 4" jaw, opens 5", same style as no20 34.2lbs

No?: 8” jaw with 14” opening fixed base (looks kinda like mine above without the swivel parts)

No53N: American Scale/Red Seal, fixed base (need size info)
No54: American Scale/Red Seal, 4.5" jaw, 9 3/4" opening, 9" height, fixed base
No56: American Scale/Red Seal, 6" jaw, 12" opening, fixed base
No61C: American Scale/Red Seal, 3" jaw, 35lbs, swivel base
No62C: American Scale/Red Seal, 3 1/2" jaw, 6 1/2" opening, swivel base
No64: American Scale/Red Seal, 4" jaw, 8" opening, swivel base, 11" height, , handle length 13 1/2", 79 lbs
No64: American Scale/Red Seal, 4.5" jaw, 10.25" high, 3.5" from top of jaw to screw cover, 13" length of screw cover from jaw face to end, swivel base, 75 lbs
No66: American Scale/Red Star, 6” jaw, 14” opening
No?: American Scale/Red Seal, 4” jaw,
No75H: American Scale/Red Seal, 4.5" swivel jaw, 7" opening, 3.5" depth, swivel base, 60 lbs
Red Seal 110 66: American Scale/Red Seal, 6" jaw, 24" length, 13 1/2" height, swivel base (looks like vise in post 13, but no swivel jaw)

No79: Swivel base, swivel jaw, 190lbs, 6” jaw, 11” opening (pic in post 13)
No78: same as No79, 5" jaw, opens 11", 11 5/8 H, 26" length, 120lbs
No?: fixed base, 8 1/4 jaw, 36" length, see pics here
No88(?): AM Scale / Red Seal, 8 3/8" jaw, 350lbs, 34" overall length, 16" high, handle 25 1/2" [ebay listing said it had Coaly & Co.,KC Mo on one side, but the pic shows AM SCALE CO]

No22: 3 1/2" jaw, pipe jaws, 17" length, 10" height
No23A: see above, 4.5" jaw, pipe jaws, swivel base
No25: 6" jaw, pipe jaws, 26" length, 15 1/2" height, ~200lb
 

blacknblue

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Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
64
Location
Jacksonville FL
Yost 3" also posted this on the vise thread.

Bought it looking like this:


Tear down


After following steps:
1) Aircraft paint remover (let sit for 15 min)
2) Wire brush
3) Water rinse
4) Wire wheeled (also used dental pick tool to clean out jaw serrations)
5) Compressed air clean
5) CLR and small steel wire brush in spots I could not wire wheel (Hardware soaking in CLR entire time)
6) Acetone wipe down
8) Mask with tape
9) Rustoleum Hammered Paint (3 coats)
8) Hour dry in sun (90deg+ outside temp)
9) Remove mask and clean up any unwanted over spray with razor blade
10) Lube: Lithium Grease-all threaded components, and mating pieces of swivel base, Machine Oil: Slide and light wipe on handles for corrosion mitigation
11) Re assemble
12) Mount
13):drink:



I may go back and carefully paint the letters white. I like the look of that
 
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BikerDad

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Apr 24, 2014
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Location
Utah
Dumb question, but I've just read thru this thread and haven't seen a lot of the stuff that would normally be covered in a "101" level class.

Parts of a vise, what are they? Other than vice/vise, are there parts that go by multiple names?

Types of vises?

General instructions on disassembling vises?
 
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drivesitfar

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Pacific Northwest
Blacknblue: awesome pictures, great job and nice work writing down the process you did the work. :thumbup:

BikerDad: yes i'm sure there are parts missing so maybe this is a college class where the basic stuff should be known like static and dynamic jaw and such. appreciate the comment and i'll try to add some when the rainy season hits the NW again and i have time to sit at my laptop instead of spending all my time outside on projects. if you are able to make a list please do and i'll try to put it in the first posts or at least refer to the post #.
 

BikerDad

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Apr 24, 2014
Messages
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Location
Utah
BikerDad: yes i'm sure there are parts missing so maybe this is a college class where the basic stuff should be known like static and dynamic jaw and such. appreciate the comment and i'll try to add some when the rainy season hits the NW again and i have time to sit at my laptop instead of spending all my time outside on projects. if you are able to make a list please do and i'll try to put it in the first posts or at least refer to the post #.

Hey, I'd love to make a list, except any list I'd make would be of the stuff I need to know. While I know most of the parts of the vise, I don't have any idea how to take one apart, info I was hoping to find in this thread. I've taken the jaws off my new-sed Wilton (NotABullet) so I can take 'em down to a parts place tomorrow and get replacements, but the rest of the takedown, cleaning and reassembly will have to wait. Not that the waiting is going to be a major problem, I just wanted to knock it all out at once.
 
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drivesitfar

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BikerDad: sorry this thread isn't complete yet, but it never will be because there will always be things to add. so far a lot of the members have been adding names of the vise companies that make vises. the current list might have 10 times as many names as Dayids.org which was the best information about vises to this point.

While this thread doesn't have much information for your Wilton restoration i know of several threads where a member took one apart and put it back together that you can find with a search. if more members make posts like Blacknblue just did then one day it would. wouldn't it be nice if all that information was on just one thread and that's my goal and we'll see if it happens.

good luck.

VA: thanks again for adding to your ongoing list of where to find certain vises on the vise thread and keep up the great work. :thumbup:
 
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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,264
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The Badlands
Drivesadn Bikerdad, there is another thread here that has those basics like parts descriptions and type names for different vise (machinist vs mechanics, vs homeowners...)

I'm not home and not sure I have it bookmarked even there. The sticky for stickies should list it.
 

va.grouseman

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Mar 26, 2011
Messages
4,965
Location
Southern-Central VA.
Continued from above---post #90

Parker Lever Vise---Aka.----Hall's Sudden Grip-------------------Page 642
Starkey--------------------------------------------------------Page 647
IKN----Russian-------------------------------------------------Page 652
System Kensche------------------------------------------------Page 655
Shultz Nodular Brazil--------------------------------------------Page 656,793, 1299
Rough Neck----Rotating Vise------------------------------------Page 657
JBS------------------------------------------------------------Page 662
ACESA---------------------------------------------------------Page 665
Adams Co.----Dubuque Ia.----Machinist Vise--------------------Page 668
Woden--------------------------------------------------------Page 671
B P------------------------------------------------------------Page 672
Heavy Duty----------------------------------------------------Page 672
Littlestown----------------------------------------------------Page 676, 679
Gyro----------------------------------------------------------Page 681, 923
Westbrook High School-----------------------------------------Page 694
Made in USSR.-------------------------------------------------Page 699
Littlestown----------------------------------------------------Page 676, 679
Made In USSR-------------------------------------------------Page 699
Yost----Gem--------------------------------------------------Page 704
Palmgren----Tiawan-------------------------------------------Page 707
Baker---------------------------------------------------------Page 716
Metro---------------------------------------------------------Page 721, 728, 753, 1160
Simonds-------------------------------------------------------Page 722
Adams Diamond C0.----Anvil Vise------------------------------Page 730
Walworth-----------------------------------------------------Page 731
Promark-------------------------------------------------------Page 733
Boley---------------------------------------------------------Page 734 949
Elgin Windmill Company----------------------------------------Page 736
Baugh & Moss - Leicester--------------------------------------Page 746, 754
Powercraft----------------------------------------------------Page 755, 756
American Chain Co. Inc.----ACCO-------------------------------Page 767
Droped--------------------------------------------------------Page 771
Yost-----GEM-------------------------------------------------Page 772
Speedy Vise---------------------------------------------------Page 772
Henry Diston---------------------------------------------------Page 772
B. Smith & Co.-------------------------------------------------Page 777
Skil------------------------------------------------------------Page 782
Ward's Master Quality---Anvil Vise--------------------------Page 783, 1069
Schlegel-------------------------------------------------------Page 792
UA.H Brevet---------------------------------------------------Page 793
American------------------------------------------------------Page 794
Champion-----------------------------------------------------Page 794
Wilton----Glisenti S.A.-Milano----Italy--------------------------Page 799
Crawford------------------------------------------------------Page 798
Doug's vise----Made in Canada---------------------------------Page 800
Servess-------------------------------------------------------Page 803
Flex-vise----L.A. California-------------------------------------Page 803, 811
Huyer---------------------------------------------------------Page 804
Duracraft------------------------------------------------------Page 805
Phoenix Hardware----------------------------------------------Page 810
Northern King----Made in Canada-------------------------------Page 816
Larin Machinist Vise--------------------------------------------Page 817
Parker 386----Swivel Jaw--------------------------------------Page 821
Cobra---------------------------------------------------------Page 823, 1125, 1147
IRIMO---------------------------------------------------------Page 828
Blue-point-----------------------------------------------------Page 828
Systems Kensche----------------------------------------------Page 833
Foot Operated Vise--------------------------------------------Page 834
Lane Tech Chicago---------------------------------------------Page 835
Wenlic---------------------------------------------------------Page 835
Prentiss on Lewis Patent----------------------------------------Page 835, 836, 838, 889, 910
Dubuque-------------------------------------------------------Page 838
Biehl Brasil-----------------------------------------------------Page 841, 842
Miller Fall Vise, 1912--------------------------------------------Page 844
Leavens--------------------------------------------------------Page 856
Fuller----------------------------------------------------------Page 857
Rolland's-------------------------------------------------------Page 858
Goodell & Pratt Company----------------------------------------Page 864
Hollands Slab Side----------------------------------------------Page 867
JBT------------------------------------------------------------Page 871,
Park & Lacy Co. Ltd.----Rotating Vise---------------------------Page 872, Post 17437
Dixon Ball Vise--------------------------------------------------Page 874
Triangle 3------------------------------------------------------Page 877
Bicycle Vise----------------------------------------------------Page 882, 883, 1134, 1135
Wilton 600---Swivel Jaw---170 lbs.--------------------------Page 886, 1113
Eron-------------------------------------------------------------Page 889
Pyramid--------------------------------------------------------Page 893, 902
G.M. Yost----Swivel Jaw---------------------------------------Page 910
Columbian Autocrat--------------------------------------------Page 923
J. Marlow---G. Kipp--------------------------------------------Page 917
Fulton Star----------------------------------------------------Page 924
American Forge & Foundry---AFF-------------------------------Page 931
Tekton--------------------------------------------------------Page 943
Rex 700---combination vise---------------------------------Page 943
Welded Steel Plate Vise----------------------------------------Page 952
Hoffmann Group----Garant-------------------------------------Page 951
Wards Master Quality----Machinist vise-------------------------Page 957
Carl Shields---Anvil Vise----------------------------------------Page 961
HOME---------------------------------------------------------Page 961, 1210
ACE-----------------------------------------------------------Page 961
ZEECO--------------------------------------------------------Page 961
CL---Japan----------------------------------------------------Page 961
Western Howe----WESCO--------------------------------------Page961
All Steel Plate Vise--------------------------------------------Page 968
Optimum Machinen---Germany------------------------------Page 976
Craftsman---05198---6" jaws---107 lbs.--------------------Page 981, 1086, 1089
Record Combination---#634---------------------------------Page 991, 993
N.S. Co.---#2 Combination-----------------------------------Page 997
Comb No. 3---Combination---by Oswego--------------------Page 998, 1080
Smart's 66-----------------------------------------------------Page 999
Sawyer---6" Jaws---------------------------------------------Page 1000
Pittsburg Railroad---Automatic Vise--------------------------Page 1010
Charles Parker---Side Screw----------------------------------Page 1022
Hollands #48---Largest Swivel Jaw--------------------------Page 1057
Charles Parker---The Smallest--------------------------------Page 1062, 1195
Hartman---Lever Vise------------------------------------------Page 1067
Cole---on a Pole------------------------------------------------Page 1070
Prentiss---on a Lewis Patent-----------------------------------Page 1071
Parker---#439--------------------------------------------------Page 1077
Oil Well Supply Co.---by Oswego------------------------------Page 1080
Dolex------------------------------------------------------------Page 1082
Proxon-----------------------------------------------------------Page 1082
Athol---#81-----------------------------------------------------Page 1090
Morrison---------------------------------------------------------Page 1094
Keen Kutter-----------------------------------------------------Page 1096
Brass Columbian------------------------------------------------Page 1097
Charles Parker #20---------------------------------------------Page 1108, 1162
Pittsburg Automatic---Railroad Vise---------------------------Page 1110, 1186, 1213
Dawn---not offset--Australian----------------------------------Page 1115
Prentiss #58---stationary---------------------------------------Page 1117
Paramo #00--Small---------------------------------------------Page 1118
Rugol-------------------------------------------------------------Page 1119
Monarch---6 inches----------------------------------------------Page 1128
Charles Parker #978---------------------------------------------Page 1131
Charles Parker #0---2 1/8'' jaw width--------------------------Page 1148
Craftsman---3/4'' jaw width-------------------------------------Page 1150
Ontario---Combination Vise--------------------------------------Page 1154
Walthworth--------------------------------------------------------Page1157
Stainless Steel Morgan-------------------------------------------Page 1160














Continued on page 22,----Post #424
 
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McBrownie

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Polishing:

1) Deburring wheels for bench or hand grinders
2) Buffing wheels with compounds
3) Johnson paste wax for bare steel
4) Linseed oil for bare steel
5) Wire wheeling with several lighter gauge wheels on a hand or bench grinder
6)

Drives, Great thread! Is it possible to add rust protection to Polishing? I'm a big fan of Corrosion X, but I'm sure there are others.
 
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drivesitfar

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McB: sounds like i need to get off the home projects and start doing some editing. of course that sounds great. can you also take up two back to back posts and show a restore and as many facts as you can think of that were involved in the process. if you did more than one vise and they are different makes or even models please post them too. thanks for the kudos and hopefully this thread will have a lot of information where we don't have to spend hours to find a thread or a fix.

Va: great work and always like to see your posts. any restorations you want to post please do when you get time.

Outlaw: thanks for the wisdom again. any restorations to share with a little or a lot of the steps in the process??
 
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autopts

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Parts:

1) handles, swivel nuts and handles (Ritzblitz is a GJ member)
2) Wilton jaws and many other vise parts (KMScott or www.wiltonviseparts.net)
3) missing swivel nuts and bars: Outlaw's backyard fix (post # 21)
4) Jorgensen wood vise parts and Pony vise parts from Clamp man (post #86)

I have a 800S and I have 3 swivel handles shown. The one on the far left in the 1st photo was made here in the USA. They are easy to distinguish looking at the ends. The ends are rounded. The 2nd one with the flat ends is made abroad and the only ones available today should you need one. Costs average $60-$70 with bolts. Since I'm going the whole nine yards on this vise, I decided to order 2 new swivel handle from KMScott. I knew I would be getting high grade machining and steel and of coarse a USA made handle. I did not ask for any specs on his handle in fact, I never saw one of his bigger handles. At $100 a pair, its a great upgrade. Take a look at these beauties.
I also have a new spindle handle he made that I will be showing eventually. And yes, these handles clear the body when turning





 
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drivesitfar

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Blue: here's what the Craigslist ad said so i can pull the name off when i put it in the vises legend on Post #2. thanks for the post.

"Large Heavy Vice... says NS Co. on side. Might be from train system... Norfolk Southern Railroad, not sure. Mounts with one hole, large 3/4 inch bolt sticks out of bottom, has large washer and T-nut. Very heavy duty! Think it weighs over 50 pounds. Works perfectly. Needs minor repair of aluminum jaw protectors or you can just remove them. I beleive it opens to over 6 inches or more. See photos. Email for more information."

SZ: here's the picture of your Zeeco vise and thanks for posting it.

All: just a reminder that Craigslist ads and Ebay ads all expire at some time so if you can pull out the information that is important and pictures they will stay on this thread for years to come. thanks
 

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Fretters

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I took a photo or two of the sprung leadscrew setup for this thread DIF, just so that people know what to generally expect to find on the underside of the slide on non-QR English vices.

1407973545number3_vice_leadscrew_parts.jpg


That one has a split pin fitted as the original was missing, and I just happened to have a correctly sized split pin to hand. It doesn't matter what type of pin is used as long as it's the correct diameter. The spring keeps it under tension and in place once the assembly is fitted. This photo is the assembly fitted, before I lathered grease on it.

1407973546number3_vice_leadscrew_fitted.jpg
 

Mark in Indiana

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Hello DIF,
This is a great thread you started. I know that there are a lot of guys & gals that have stumbled on threads like Vises of GJ and many others, who've caught the "I MUST RESTORE A VISE FEVER". If I may, I would like to add some advice called " Vise Buying 101"

Here are a few points:

1. Try not to worship at the altar of your favorite brand when choosing a vise. Preferences are OK but, that will only reduce your prospects. There are a lot of high quality vintage vises, regardless of brand.

2. Regarding your restoration skills: Like Dirty Harry...Know your limitations. If you can't weld, don't buy a cracked vise. Also, how much work do you want to put into your restoration ?

3. Get to know the market value in your area. Vintage vise prices have been increasing over the years, but there are still bargains out there. Another thing to think of is that if a seller is asking $150 for a vise, consider what piece of import junk that you would get from a big box store for the same money. However, it doesn't mean that you have to over pay.

4. After you searched the ads, you found a vise to call about. Usually the seller doesn't know much about his vise, but you can ask some basic questions that could save time: What is the overall condition?, Are there any cracks or breaks? Pictures are good also but, don't waste a lot of time because someone else will buy it.

5. So you have made an appointment to see the vise that you called about. Take some tools, if you have to remove it from a bench. Also, take a flashlight in case you can't examine the vise in sunlight.

6. Now you're at the seller's home to look at the vise. Look at the overall condition of the vise. Does it look like it had been beaten with a sledge hammer? Are there any chuncks broken off of it? Are the handles bent? Does the moving jaw wobble or seize while moving? Look for cracks around the feet, outer body of the stationary jaw and the handle area of the moving jaw body. These things may not be deal breakers. They mean your restoration will take more work and may give you leverage on the price.

7. Remove the moving jaw from the stationary jaw body. Are there any cracks inside? Is the spindle but broken or cracked?

8. Assuming that you like the vise, you make a fair offer, it's accepted and you make the purchase. Be sure to ask the seller about the history of the vise if he had it for a long time. That will give you some fun facts to tell your buddies as they admire your restoration.

I'm sure that there are other tips that it didn't list. I hope that this will help those who are taking the first step on the journey that we " vise veterans" have taken often.

Happy trails!
 
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drivesitfar

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Fretters: I might need to pull the pin holding that spring out of my Record No. 4 so i can ship it in the right size box i have. does that pin just pull out or is there a little trick to that before i put a pair of pliers on it and pull?

Mark: thanks for the kudos and i hope a lot of the members vise restorations show up here along with some of the vast knowledge so we won't have to search so many threads to find the answers. feel free to post as many of yours as you like that show plenty of pictures and have the details because you are one of the pros i'd go to if i needed one restored. also did you happen to see vise company list that the members and i have put together? thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Outlaw: your humor is always appreciated. Also with all those vises you have picked up lately i'm hoping you have a few before and after posts and restorations to show us. by the way is that your first Craftsman 519x series vise you just bought or is it one of many?
 

Fretters

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Fretters: I might need to pull the pin holding that spring out of my Record No. 4 so i can ship it in the right size box i have. does that pin just pull out or is there a little trick to that before i put a pair of pliers on it and pull?

Just try and get a bit of compression on the spring before you try pulling it, otherwise the washer being pressed against the pin by the spring makes it a bit of a devil to pull. Easiest method for doing that is to get a length of tube with a bore slightly larger than the OD of the leadscrew and then cut a lengthways slot in the end. The slot wants to be slightly wider than the pin, and long enough so that you can compress the spring slightly without fouling the pin. Then, just slip that over the leadscrew and compress the spring slightly whilst you pull the pin.

The other way is to tap the pin through slightly and then rotate the leadscrew 180 degrees and pull it. You need to be careful not to tap the pin through too far though, otherwise it will foul the underside of the slide when you try rotating the leadscrew. Just tapping it through that little bit gives you more purchase on the pin when you try pulling it.
 
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drivesitfar

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Fretters: thanks for the lesson (again).:thumbup: by the way are all Record vices closed at the ends of their dynamic jaws? it looks like i'll have to somehow take out or loosen the vise nut to get the dynamic jaw out of the static jaw. interesting to say the least.

the old vise makers left their ends of the dynamic jaws open, but they used quite a bit more iron in their slides than the newer ones. i'm sure the closed ends gives the dynamic jaws less chance of deforming or breaking.
 
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drivesitfar

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Fretters: here are some more pictures of my Record No. 4 showing the spring and pin and also the closed end on the dynamic jaw.
 

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Fretters

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by the way are all Record vices closed at the ends of their dynamic jaws? it looks like i'll have to somehow take out or loosen the vise nut to get the dynamic jaw out of the static jaw. interesting to say the least.

the old vise makers left their ends of the dynamic jaws open, but they used quite a bit more iron in their slides than the newer ones. i'm sure the closed ends gives the dynamic jaws less chance of deforming or breaking.


Nope, they aren't. If that was indeed a No.4, (which it isn't, might I add. 4 and R40S are quite different beasts :D), that would be an open end slide. The enclosed end slides were usually so as to incorporate a bearing hanger for the tail end of the leadscrew with the QR vices. There will have been exceptions, but that was generally the reason they'd be enclosed unless it was a pure design choice to attempt to minimise dust/swarf ingress.

To remove that pin, whip the swivel base off. They'll have likely drilled all way through so that you can tap it out. If not, you're just going to have to pull.

With regard that spring, washer and pin, you're going to have to do it the tap, turn and pull way. One thing you can do to help when you pull the pin is to get a length of wooden dowel. Rest one end of it in the dip in the casting for the rear jaw, underneath the spring, then that becomes the fulcrum for using the dowel as a lever to push the washer forward to compress the spring. Make sure you press both down and forward on the dowel to stop it slipping out. Is that a standard V thread on that leadscrew?
 
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McBrownie

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Parker 203 Repair Post #1

I reserved 8 spots to go through a detailed restoration of a 1910's-1920's Parker 203 with 3 1/2" jaws. Not only do I want to share the steps I went through, but also the learnings that I had on purchasing a used Parker online and why I would walk away from this vise if I saw it online today - that is unless it was a swivel jaw! :) I also want to thank fellow GJ'r KMScott because without his help, this vise might have ended up in the scrap heap. So, let's get started.

First of all, I bought this vise because I always like the looks of the "bulb nose" Parkers. I also have a newer "cylinder nose" 974 and I felt that it was a little too big for the corner of my bench. I have since changed my mind on both counts. ;)

By the way, I have about 30 pictures coming over the next 8 posts, so be patient.

Here are some pictures as they were listed on line.
View media item 40377View media item 40376
And here is the last picture marked up with 4 reasons why I would not buy this vise knowing what I know today:
View media item 42943
#1 It's hard to tell, but something doesn't look right with the jaw alignment. I didn't notice at first, but now it jumps out at me. It is noticeable in the first picture as well.
#2 Look closely at the rounded edges in all three photos. These jaws don't look sharp and square. Parker jaws are tricky to fix and downright expensive to replace. The problem is that each set is unique and requires hand fitting. I'll get into more about the jaws later.
#3 I thought, "oh a little chip, no big deal" Again, "Parker Jaws" should be spelled "Parker Jaw$"
#4 Missing a screw, not a big deal, but any replacement part will set you back in time and dollars. There are a couple of members who make excellent replacements for these kinds of things. I have used RitzBlitz in the past and used KMScott for this one.

And #5 was hiding. Had I seen this vise in person, I would not have walked away, I would have run. You'll have to keep reading to find out what that was all about.

Hope everyone enjoys.
-Bill
 
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McBrownie

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Parker 203 Repair Post #2

Some "easy" fixes. The first thing I noticed is that the spindle had a lot of slop in it. I could move it back and forth about a 1/16". The first thing I thought is "How many times do you need to turn the handle to wear it out like this?" The answer? - A lot! This vise was packed with grease, so who ever used did take the time to lubricate it. This spindle slop was the sign of more trouble to come. The spindle shaft was 3/4" diameter, so I bought a 3/4" ID x 1" OD bronze motor bushing. It was only about $5-$6 dollars. I then held it in place with a threaded rod with washers and nuts at both ends of the dynamic slide. This let me get it centered the best I could and I did that by tapping it with a hammer and measuring with dial calipers.

View media item 40582
Once I got it centered, I used a scribe to mark a line around the bushing:
View media item 40583
And you can see how worn it was:
View media item 40584
Then I carefully used a dremel with the little drum sander attachment to remove material up to the line. BE CAREFUL when doing this. It is amazing how fast the dremel can remove cast iron and I was going for a press fit. So grind a little and check for fit. Rinse and repeat.

Here is the result:
View media item 40585
And here is the dremel attachment I was referring to. By the way, the little brush in this picture does a great job of getting dried paint stripper out of the lettering.
View media item 42944
One problem solved, now let's get on to shining up that metal. I started on the spindle handle and knob using hand files, sanding belts, emery cloth and the dremel. I used the sanding belts and emery cloth like a shoe shiner shines shoes. It took a while - as in days. This metal was really pitted and I never did get it all out. The dremel came in very handy with the sanding drum attachment. I used that like I was peeling an apple. Again, many, many hours and lots of patience.

This is a lot of rust:
View media item 40654
Edit: Adding the dimensions of the collar screw:
View media item 49830
Some of the supplies. I also found that emery cloth ripped into thin strips really helped with some of the curves. You can get all of this stuff at Lowes and Home Depot.
View media item 40661
Many hours later of hand work and some time with a buffing wheel on my bench grinder with a #2 cleaning and polishing compound. I did the same thing on the swivel lockdown assembly:
View media item 42317
The first reassembly and something is not right. Look at those jaws.
View media item 42315
What could be wrong? Keep reading.
 
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McBrownie

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Parker 203 Repair Post #3

Ok, here is where things start getting ugly. The jaws are not lining up right. There is alot of slop between the dynamic slide and the static housing. This vise is old, tired, and worn out. I wish I knew about its' history. This thing had to do some serious work in its' day.

It is at this point that I send a note to Kevin (KMScott) asking if he can help out with the jaws. He begins to ask some questions about the squareness of the vise, so I get to work measuring.

So, let's see what we have. By the way, sorry about these next pictures. The lighting was not the best. Also, the Parker 974 is the workhorse in this project. You can't fix a vise without a vise. ;)
First a little bit of good news. The dynamic jaw is perpendicular with the top of dynamic slide. Whew!:
View media item 42551
Then the same good news about the static jaw face, except what is going on with the dynamic support?
View media item 42552
Oh ****, or crack, I should say.
View media item 42554
This was more than a little disappointing. The angle of the support is largely due to wear. You can see that the groove that is normally cast into the surface is almost worn away and I could not see any cracks running down the side of the support. Regardless, this vise can only be a light duty vise from now on. Kevin and I messaged back and forth about options for shiming, welding, resurfacing of this support and decided that it was safest to leave it alone.

Here is a markup of what was going on with this vise:
View media item 42308Line A is my reference plane - the top of the dynamic slide. If the previous owner would have used this as an anvil, I would have been screwed. But, I was lucky and it was flat. I don't have a picture of the bottom of the slide, but it had worn and needed to be resurfaced. More on that to come. As a result of all of this wear, you can see how things are "sagging" much like the foundation of house starting to crumble. Only these repairs are a whole lot easier and cheaper to deal with.

On to the bottom of the dynamic slide. It was concave, due to wear, by about .025" (half a mm for our international readers) from front to back. The easy thing to do would have been to "fly cut" this on a milling machine, but I don't have a milling machine. I do, however, have a radial arm saw with a 12" sanding disc. So, here is what I did. Remember, the top of my dynamic slide is what I'm using as a reference for flat and square.

You can see the difference between the shiny and dark areas as I get started.
View media item 41449View media item 41448
And the finished product. I took off only enough to get it flat. This was also not a fast process, but it was a good homeowner solution. There was also a bit of a casting problem that needed to be fixed on the front left side as pictured. I used an angle grinder to make a relief so it matched the right side as pictured.
View media item 41450
Now we are rolling. Time to figure out how to get everything back in line with some shims.
 
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McBrownie

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Parker 203 Repair Post #4

Time for shims. Kevin and I were talking about aluminum bronze and welding and machining and horizontal shapers, but in the end, this vise has a stress fracture so I wasn't going to dump a bunch of money into it. On to the cardboard! (just kidding, I started with cardboard for a markup). I lifted the dynamic the best I could into position and clamped a piece of brass stock between the jaws to make sure they were level and parallel. This way, the vise was not sitting on the bottom of the dynamic. Then I slid in various pieces of cardboard to see what I needed.
View media item 42918
I even tried this upside down to let gravity work for me. The 974 is yawning with boredom.
View media item 42320
It turns out that I needed about a 1/32" shim, so I went to the hardware store and found a piece of brass. This will not wear as well as Kevin's aluminum bronze, but it is malleable and cheap - about $8 and can easily be replaced when needed. I ran the shim the full length of the bottom of the static and folded the edges over. This solved one problem and caused another. Make sure you read on because I had to modify this shim.
View media item 42555View media item 42556
This is as good as this is going to get:
View media item 42557
But, this is looking better:
View media item 42558View media item 42559View media item 42560
OK, the bleeding has stopped, or so I thought, so let's move onto those jaws.
 
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