The VISES of Garage Journal

[Fretters]

Many have said regular linseed oil is a sticky mess hence the boiled.

In all honesty, it's not, if done correctly, (although I seem to be the only one willing to experiment for the sake of purity ). The key to using raw is to thin it suitably with a good solvent, hence the gum, (pure), turpentine. I've used it on multiple items, and I'd bank that most would be hard pushed to notice any difference at all to boiled.

This is what I was talking about when I meant the browning effect... How is this done?

That looks like it's just had a wipe down from found condition, so that most likely just fine rust and something like WD40.

Thats the kind of work everyone should try once or twice, just for the experience, but, as a practical matter, such work is better sent to specialist firms. Its not a realistically practical finish for such as hand tools or vises, unless one's working time is of very little value, or one really wants to be some sort of 'fanatic'. (for all I know, that may well be how the tool sets originally supplied with the Bugatti cars were done....they do 'look pretty'.)

That pretty much sums it up. It's not an inconsequential task, but on the flip side, it does give a finish which is in a league of its own. I've always found it quite amusing that a controlled rusting process can be used to create one of the most appealing, rust resistant finishes there is. Rust protecting against rust.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters and ALL: i moved the conversation about boiled linseed and other natural finishes over to the Vise Repair 101 thread because i still have questions so check over there with your comments or suggestions.

All: I found another L. M. & V vise. it isn't nearly as big as my other one and it has a few issues, but i do like the casting and the interesting design. the parts i'll need to fix are to make a set of jaws and drill out and retap the static side where the bolts were broken off inside. also there is a crack on the swivel base that probably needs to be brazed before i use it, but for now it will sit on the shelf next to it's big brother until i have time to deal with it.

 

[zkling]

^^^^^^^
This is what I was talking about when I meant the browning effect... How is this done?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Essentially through a natural browning process. Let it rust, card it off, let it rust, card it off. Slow rust bluing without the boiling water to convert it to black oxide. IIRC it is the oldest method of finishing firearms.

 

[t4runner]

Picked up this Craftsman vise for $5 at a sale yesterday and stripped it and painted it. Sorry no before photos.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Fretters and ALL: i moved the conversation about boiled linseed and other natural finishes over to the Vise Repair 101 thread because i still have questions so check over there with your comments or suggestions.

All: I found another L. M. & V vise. it isn't nearly as big as my other one and it has a few issues, but i do like the casting and the interesting design. the parts i'll need to fix are to make a set of jaws and drill out and retap the static side where the bolts were broken off inside. also there is a crack on the swivel base that probably needs to be brazed before i use it, but for now it will sit on the shelf next to it's big brother until i have time to deal with it.

The blue paint job looks like work from the same painter that did your Hollands a few pages back. On the Hollands I would have complained, he missed painting the screw inside the slide.

 

[drivesitfar]

Get: one of these days i'll have time to finish these awesome tools so i can show vises only restored like you and some of the others. for now i'm just filling the cabinet because a few have gone MIA lately.

yes you are right it was the same painter and he promised to leave them rusty for me if he finds anymore.

All: I've only found one other vise on the internet with this name cast into the vise. anybody have one to post of a L. M. & V so i can see it? these are interesting vises because the dynamic's screw is held in place from behind the back instead of inside like most vises.

 

[va.grouseman]

Drivesit, here are 3 that are similar to yours but do not anchor in the back.

1. Bret888---Page 246,---Post # 4918.---There was no link for this one.---Have to look it up.---But has a good history lesson to go with it.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


2.---Is the only swivel jaw L.M. & V. I've seen.---Page 412




[/QUOTE]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


3.---Is some of my good junk.---Page 466



http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/weakmanfor2things/100_047

[URL=http://s1127.photobucket.com/user/weakmanfor2things/media/100_0535.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/weakmanfor2things/100_0535.jpg

 

[Nuts]

Another way of "browning" iron items. Place it outside near the wifes rose garden and while watching tv in the evenings, step outside for a break and water the roses.

With any luck the damn rose will brown too.

Nuts

 

[PCO6]

I picked up a Woden No. 0 vice at an auto flea market last week for $10. It was a bit of a mess and didn't fully open up. A basic cleaning and lubrication was all it really needed.

Here it is as I found it.
View media item 43197
These are all of the parts derusted, painted and ready for reassembly.
View media item 43198
This is it assembled and next to a Record mini anvil with its original paint. I used Dupli-Color Royal Blue on the vice and it turned out to be a pretty good match.
View media item 43199
Here it is next to a Woden No. 1 that I picked up at the same auto flea market last year. It was in similar condition. Woden vices are basically the same as Record vices. I now have Woden Nos. 0 & 1 and Record Nos. 3, 4, 6 & 8.
View media item 43200

 

[Fretters]

Are those the original jaw insert screws? Each one I've come across so far has had the standard screw head, not an unusual angle like that. Nice little vice are those. I had one until the little 'un nicked it off me.

 

[PCO6]

^^^ They fit the countersink of the jaws properly and appeared to be original screws. I agree though, I haven't seen ones with that angle either. This vice didn't appear to have been messed with in any way so I'm assuming all of the parts are original.

 

[Boom1432]

In case anyone looking for a Leg vise in Los Angeles, here's a possible nice one for $75.



http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/tls/4664032928.html

"antique vice 41 inches long heavy solid steele. for sale or trade"

I have one similar to this. But mine is crusty.

 

[Fretters]

They fit the countersink of the jaws properly and appeared to be original screws. I agree though, I haven't seen ones with that angle either. This vice didn't appear to have been messed with in any way so I'm assuming all of the parts are original.

Seems they must have varied quite a bit then, when the mood suited. I know someone mentioned that the thread form was different on theirs a while ago too, (I think it was a B3, and the one I'd checked against was either 1/4" or 5/16" BSW, but theirs differed), so it looks like we probably can't take owt for granted on that front with the Wodens.

 

[Polizei]

I don't know what it is with the whole vice thing bet these tools really resonate with me.



Here is a recent purchase. Record Auto-Vice No. 74.



Does anyone have a code for the correct record red?



I am thinking of restoring this but I also like the patina... Can't have it both ways

excuse poor lighting

So here it is after the resto.

I am think of highlighting the lettering in ivory even though this would not be original

 

[flavc3]

this just pop up near me.....can anyone tell me which model it is and does 50 sound reasonable? Thanks, kinda like fixing these things!!

 

[taumac]

So here it is after the resto.

I am think of highlighting the lettering in ivory even though this would not be original

That's bad *** looking. Nice job. What's the button on back? Removal anvil?

5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
Florida GJ Group
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117

 

[va.grouseman]

Polizei---If you are going to paint the letters, how about try Balane's paper towel method and then give us your opinion.---I'm going to use it when I get one to that stage.

Here's his link---- http://www.shanewhitlock.com/blog/?p=272[/QUOTE]


Good luck, and great job on a real collectable so far.

 

[FMC1959]

So here it is after the resto.

I am think of highlighting the lettering in ivory even though this would not be original

Great job, very nice looking restoration!

 

[McBrownie]

this just pop up near me.....can anyone tell me which model it is and does 50 sound reasonable? Thanks, kinda like fixing these things!!

Something doesn't look right about that spindle knob. The same with the jaws. I would say to proceed with caution.

 

[KMScott]

I have found painting letters is easier if you do a little prep work. I like to hand file flat the tops so you have a actual line to paint to. Balanes example has very flat letters, not like most letters you see in rough castings. I just use a thin tapered brush that I trimmed with scissors. When painting letters it helps to do it under a magnifying lenses and if you are not a drinking man.

 

[FMC1959]

Something doesn't look right about that spindle knob. The same with the jaws. I would say to proceed with caution.

My guess was the area behind the static jaw extends out and goes straight down, looks like a Parker Superior. But McB you are right, the spindle looks more like a Prentiss, and the Jaws do not look like classic Parker jaws.

 

[flavc3]

this just pop up near me.....can anyone tell me which model it is and does 50 sound reasonable? Thanks, kinda like fixing these things!!

Seller just got back to me...said its a parker 705 with 4.5 inch jaws and opens 8 inch. I can't find any info on 705??

 

[rusty65]

this just pop up near me.....can anyone tell me which model it is and does 50 sound reasonable? Thanks, kinda like fixing these things!!

That's all original Parker no parts added but i suspect the lead screw garter is missing but that's a easy fix with a piece of sheet steel and a screw. 50 isn't terrible but 35 would sound better if the garter is missing.

 

[balane]

I did these two with the rolled up paper towel/tape method. I shudder to think about what they may have looked like if I tried anything that required precise work.

.

 

[jpickar]

^^^^^^^
This is what I was talking about when I meant the browning effect... How is this done?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

A good way to brown are using gun barrel browning solution. It is called Plum Brown Barrel finish. Browning is done to muzzle loader barrels.
John

 

[Polizei]

That's bad *** looking. Nice job. What's the button on back? Removal anvil?

5 Stitches Garage
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211899
Florida GJ Group
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=117

I thought the button on the back was to serve as a type of anvil. The button is meant to be removable but I could not get it out for the life of me.

Any tips on achieving this would be appreciated.

 

[Polizei]

Polizei---If you are going to paint the letters, how about try Balane's paper towel method and then give us your opinion.---I'm going to use it when I get one to that stage.

Here's his link---- http://www.shanewhitlock.com/blog/?p=272

Good luck, and great job on a real collectable so far.[/QUOTE]

I was wondering how I would do this. I will try this method for sure!

Thank you for the link

 

[bl00]

Seller just got back to me...said its a parker 705 with 4.5 inch jaws and opens 8 inch. I can't find any info on 705??

It looks like it's from the Trojan line. It didn't use the Parker collar or fancy Parker replaceable jaws. I suspect it was the economy line, but still a good solid vise.

 

[McBrownie]

It looks like it's from the Trojan line. It didn't use the Parker collar or fancy Parker replaceable jaws. I suspect it was the economy line, but still a good solid vise.

I've never heard of the Trojan line. Interesting and explains the jaws. That "705" could be a "205" which has 4.5" jaws. My 203 has 3.5". Parker had wacky numbering schemes at times.

EDIT:

It looks likes the 700 series numbering is correct as are the spindle and the jaws for the Trojan line. Here is more information. Look at post #90 on this thread and how he found out that was lucky to only have paid $5 on post #97. It's on the welding web forum for a reason.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?121511-A-Bench-Vise-Thread/page4

 

[Rusty Musket]

What's this appendage on a Wilton?

Has anybody see this before?

 

[EOC_Jason]

I used to have a Parker Trojan 706... I had 5" wide jaws (yeah, the numbers made no sense)...

It was an early design you could tell. Cast-in jaws and no front collar. It was held in like other vises with the collar on the shaft inside.

Very little info about them is available. I did find some old catalogs via Google that were dated pre-1900 that mentioned the Parker Trojan's (but no pictures). You can also see the similarities in design to early Parkers with the feet and front and how they eventually transitioned to the front retaining collar and such.

 

[drivesitfar]

Jason: nice looking Trojan vise. you sure know how to make a vise shine.

Flav: here is a Trojan vise that has been on Craigslist in Portland for a while now for $100 and it's missing a piece of the back of the static jaw. even if it is a light duty or economy Parker it looks well made (the one you posted and not this broken one) and well worth $50. also if you can see if you can keep the square bolts and nuts they might be a nice look when you mount it to your bench if they are in good shape.

Rusty: i'd pass on that swiveling Wilton because the jaws don't look right, but it is a light vise that moves in many directions and maybe the less expensive version of the baby bullet on a power arm or a versa vise. Badass just had a thread asking about the same vise only his was rebadged a Power Kraft by Wilton.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261515&highlight=vise

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Drivesitfar, Get: one of these days i'll have time to finish these awesome tools so i can show vises only restored like you and some of the others. for now i'm just filling the cabinet because a few have gone MIA lately.

yes you are right it was the same painter and he promised to leave them rusty for me if he finds anymore.

I have been feeling guilty since yesterday for teasing you about those fully painted vises. I didn't want to do this but, I admit I painted a whole vise one time. It was the 1st vise I ever bought off CL for $15 I think.
It was a big blob of rust and I thought it might be salvaged ? I put in it a plastic barrel with water & muratic acid. I would take it out once a day, hose & brush some rust off. The screw finally came out and after 3 or 4 days I started with a 2x4 and mini sledge in the routine to try and free the slide. I worked the base back & forth enough to get it free and got the center bolt out. The slide was like the Chuck Berry song says "It wouldn't budge" I got it all apart and the flash rust would come back in the blink of an eye. "I'll fix this" I painted the whole thing The handle had been buried in the dirt about 6" down.

 

[Rusty Musket]

Re: What's this appendage on a Wilton?

Has anybody see this before?

Rusty: i'd pass on that swiveling Wilton because the jaws don't look right, but it is a light vise that moves in many directions and maybe the less expensive version of the baby bullet on a power arm or a versa vise. Badass just had a thread asking about the same vise only his was rebadged a Power Kraft by Wilton.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...highlight=vise

Thanks DIF! I already own a light-weight tilting Wilton but mine is a bit different.

 

[FMC1959]

has anybody see this before?

How much is he asking? That one looks decent shape and all parts intact. For $20-$30 I would take it.

i used to have a parker trojan 706... I had 5" wide jaws (yeah, the numbers made no sense)...

It was an early design you could tell. Cast-in jaws and no front collar. It was held in like other vises with the collar on the shaft inside.

Very little info about them is available. I did find some old catalogs via google that were dated pre-1900 that mentioned the parker trojan's (but no pictures). You can also see the similarities in design to early parkers with the feet and front and how they eventually transitioned to the front retaining collar and such.

Jason, your 4th picture close up on the screw and collar looks so Prentiss

i've never heard of the trojan line. Interesting and explains the jaws. That "705" could be a "205" which has 4.5" jaws. My 203 has 3.5". Parker had wacky numbering schemes at times.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?121511-a-bench-vise-thread/page4

The method to Parker's early numbering scheme madness was come to out with a line of vise, starting at a given size and ending at another size. The smallest started at 101 and went to 108, the 4" & 8" just happened to coincide with their model number. Later on with next generation models like 950/970 series, they probably saw the logic of their competitors numbering scheme and went with it

 

[joe.striper]

How big do York vises grow?? I am talking to someone who claims to have an 8" 90 lb'er. They want $100 for but it is 1.5 hours away.

I'd be excited for my first York. Any tips on things to look out for?

Thanks all.

 

[riggs1117]

8" should be heavier than 90 lbs, by ALOT. make sure it is an 8" jaw. probably opens 8 inches more like 4" jaw

 

[Fretters]

How big do York vises grow?? I am talking to someone who claims to have an 8" 90 lb'er. They want $100 for but it is 1.5 hours away.

I'd be excited for my first York. Any tips on things to look out for?

Thanks all.

Ask him what number it says on the side. If it's an 8", it'll have 200 on the side. Can only recall seeing upto 150's? myself. Regarding what to look out for, the same things as you would any other vice.

 

[Fretters]

Me and the little 'un finally got this put back together last night. Before:

After:

It was coated with one coat of linseed oil, 'cos he was undecided whether he wanted it painting or not, so went with the finish which allowed painting later on if needs be. The little sod only waits until we've finished reassembling it before he says he thinks he'd prefer it painted.

 

[Outlawmws]

Fretters, that York looks good nekkid...

My latest acquisition this AM yard sailing:

A Columbian 604-1/2; 4/1/2" jaws, Swivel base, 360 degrees of rotation; 49 lbs on my scale.

Jaws look good, first pic is tough, second is decent: