Restoring a Craftsman 113.27520 10" table saw

[xxtreem11]

Hey all...

I picked up this saw from Craigslist for $75 bucks. It looked to be in good shape and had both extension wings, full fence and the original motor so I jusmped on it. Now here comes the teardown of this ******. Damn this thing is he-e-e-e-e-avy. but there's nothing a little muscle and WD-40 can't solve.

 

[billp603]

Heavy is good! What's the piece of plywood inside? I If it's fixing something broken I'd get the correct machined part to go in there.

One trick I have used to clean up and polish the machine surfaces on saw tables is to put a scotchbrite pad under a 1/4 palm sander with some WD-40 or Boeshield T-9.

 

[Outlawmws]

Nice find! But that motor appears to need to be moved up on the mounting plate a bit so the belt does not rub...

 

[xxtreem11]

Thanks! The piece of plywood is a makeshift dust collection system. Not too shabby, but I might try something else. The motor needs a "little" adjustment. The belt may be a little long... or the motor mount needs moved back... or the motor need adjusted higher... or....

I've started tearing it apart. The arbor and blade adjustments were binding a little and the blade was spinning, but not very freely. Hitting all the bolts with some WD-40 made the tear down very easy.

First decision. It looks like the arbor bearings need replacing. They're smooth, but not smooth enough. So the question is... Sears still has the one bearing and the arbor with the bearing. Do I buy them from sears or go with a better bearing (Accurate) and have the one pressed onto the arbor. Decisions, decisions.

Motor teardown is next. If the motor needs bearings too, then I'd rather get them all at the same time.

 

[Packard V8]

Those are great old saws. I've owned several and have two in storage at present. Clean it up, fix what it needs and use it. Just don't put much money in it. You'll have difficulty getting more than your $75 back if you try to sell it. Hard to find a better user saw at that price, but they're thick on the ground and don't bring many offers on craigslist. There are at least a dozen for sale here today.

jack vines

 

[xxtreem11]

Got everything torn apart now. Got my list for Accurate bearings. I need 2 6202LL 5/8 bearings for the arbor shaft and 2 6303 double sealed bearings for the motor shaft.

Now to start tearing down the rest of this so that I can take a wire wheel to the steel, give all the rusted stuff an electrolysis bath and degrease the rest of the innards.

Here's a question for all you seasoned garage guys and restorers.... the Craftsman logo plate on the front of the saw is riveted on. Same with the spec plate on the the motor. What's the best way to take them off and put them back on when I'm done?

 

[justanengineer]

Masking tape, unless you think someone's going to look underneath them.

I have that exact same saw and love it. Best $25 Ive ever spent. I bought its lil brother recently for $15 w/perfect paint to rob the motor for a Cman jointer Im currently restoring. Those saws are no Unisaw, but miles ahead of a box store aluminum saw.

 

[Outlawmws]

Got everything torn apart now. Got my list for Accurate bearings. I need 2 6202LL 5/8 bearings for the arbor shaft and 2 6303 double sealed bearings for the motor shaft.

Now to start tearing down the rest of this so that I can take a wire wheel to the steel, give all the rusted stuff an electrolysis bath and degrease the rest of the innards.

Here's a question for all you seasoned garage guys and restorers.... the Craftsman logo plate on the front of the saw is riveted on. Same with the spec plate on the the motor. What's the best way to take them off and put them back on when I'm done?

It might be a rivet, or it might be one of those rivet "screws" that can be tapped out from the back side. check yours. If it is a real rivet, those are hard to come by in those sizes, and I usually mask them off. and strip and paint.

 

[xxtreem11]

well... i did the ole "dremel a slot in them and screw them out" routine. They're U Drive screws. I'll have to pick some up. Hopefully the local Home Despot has some.

 

[Packard V8]

Yes, Accurate Bearing is a great go-to.

No, the bearings in the Craftsman are nothing special. Any local bearing house should have them by the boxful. Save yourself the shipping and pick up an AX series belt for the saw while you're there.

jack vines

 

[xxtreem11]

So I put the arbor end of the assembly into the hot soapy bat and let it sit for a day. Then started scotch briting and brushing the snot out of it. I didn't want to repaint it. Adding a little WD-40 and it came out pretty good, even if I do say so myself. Now I only wish that I had a larger tub than this 5 gallon one so I can do some multiple parts at a time. It's definitely going to make ******-bathing the top and wings interesting.



Before:

After:

 

[xxtreem11]

So, now that I'm back from loading up the 'ole 4WD sleigh and carting the family across a few states to see the inlaws, it's time to continue our regularly scheduled restoration.

So, I'm trying the old soak rusted bolts in vinegar trick to see if the rust will come off enough to wipe off. I also got a wire wheel for my grinder to get the remainder off and polish them up. I was going to give all the bolts an electrolysis bath, but did not see a way to keep them all together and tied electrically. After I get the bolts all clean, I'm going to spray them with some clear coat.

I still need to ****** the arbor tilt and height adjustment shafts and the top and extension wings, and I think I'm going to use aircraft remover to get the paint off the base, motor housing and bell ends. Then wipe them with some naptha and shoot some color.

 

[tinkergeek]

The large black plastic mixing pans for concrete may give you the space you want. Or for that matter, a large sturdy box of the right size lined with heavy plastic may make it possible to immerse the entire top.

 

[Outlawmws]

The large black plastic mixing pans for concrete may give you the space you want. Or for that matter, a large sturdy box of the right size lined with heavy plastic may make it possible to immerse the entire top.

The larger size should do the trick for an Ebath for the table. use a grid of rebar on the bottom, a couple of bricks to hold the table off the bottom, and another brick or two outside the table for supporting a top grid and fire it off.

If the tubs aren't large enough one of those cheap kids wading pools will also do the trick

 

[Dave Norton]

I just acquired one of these saws. It seems to be in fair condition except that the swinging plate that the motor sits on is broken. It is cast iron, and I need help finding a replacement. Tried to find a local welder, but, since it is cast, he wanted $100 minimum fee to weld it.

 

[Outlawmws]

Try Eprey for the motor plate if no one here has one. These get parted all the time.

 

[bisley45]

Nice saw you have there I have on just like it that I did a restore on some time back you will love it. Here is a pic of mine all cleaned up.

 

[gus1962]

Bisley45 , that's a well restored table saw. How is it performing? I wish I'd find a sweet machine on CL someday. I've been waiting for a good one to come out in my area.

 

[ozyborn]

The twist link belts from Harbor Freight seem to hold up well. I hate to use anything from there but the belts are nice


I have rebuilt several of these. I seem to collect them

 

[s2kattracks]

The twist link belts from Harbor Freight seem to hold up well. I hate to use anything from there but the belts are nice


I have rebuilt several of these. I seem to collect them

Ditto, I am using a belt from there as well and its holding up fine.

 

[pragmatic]

Just a question. I just got the same saw. While setting it up, cleaning, changing the belt I noticed that the stud used to keep the belt tension set is very short. I can barely thread a nut on the stud to set the belt tension.

The part (of the stud) that is in the cast iron piece that the motor hangs off of appears to be a larger diameter than the stud itself (stepped down). Is this stud screwed into the cast iron? or pressed in? Left of right hand threads?

While it is very hard to get the bolt threaded (due to the short length) I do not want to mess up the threads trying to vise grip it out. Of course if I got it out I'd have to find a stepped stud or to replace it.

 

[xxtreem11]

Nice saw you have there I have on just like it that I did a restore on some time back you will love it. Here is a pic of mine all cleaned up.

Awesome. Exact same color scheme as the restore I did. I've been slacking with the postings on this one.

Question... how did you polish the handles? I haven't found a good method.

 

[GirchyGirchy]

Question... how did you polish the handles? I haven't found a good method.

I grab a couple of Kleenexes and pull up one of my favorite websites. If you need more information after that point, I don't think I can help...

 

[xxtreem11]

I grab a couple of Kleenexes and pull up one of my favorite websites. If you need more information after that point, I don't think I can help...

:tard:

 

[xxtreem11]

Just a question. I just got the same saw. While setting it up, cleaning, changing the belt I noticed that the stud used to keep the belt tension set is very short. I can barely thread a nut on the stud to set the belt tension.

The part (of the stud) that is in the cast iron piece that the motor hangs off of appears to be a larger diameter than the stud itself (stepped down). Is this stud screwed into the cast iron? or pressed in? Left of right hand threads?

While it is very hard to get the bolt threaded (due to the short length) I do not want to mess up the threads trying to vise grip it out. Of course if I got it out I'd have to find a stepped stud or to replace it.

are you talking about the stud out the motor mount that has a wingnut? If so... I don't keep a nut on it since the motor is heavy enough to keep tension on the belt. I have put a link belt on mine though.

 

[ckadams00]

I used a buffing wheel on a grinder or you can use some metal polish.

 

[smberg]

Regarding U Drive rivet removal, I've found the quickest and most nondestructive way is to use a spring-loaded automatic center punch, and start punching from the back. after 15 seconds it will start moving, and another 15 seconds it will come out, and can be reused to re-mount the plates.

 

[TheBeaner]

I just acquired one of these with the side extenders detached. I see the holes but can't see how they were attached. Am I missing some pins or something that goes in those holes?

 

[Outlawmws]

The wings usually bolt on.

 

[TheBeaner]

Just picked up one of these with the extenders detached. Don't seem to have any loose parts to do the job. How were they originally attached?

 

[TheBeaner]

Thanks, Outlaw (missed your response before.)

 

[tapered-pin]

Nice saw you have there I have on just like it that I did a restore on some time back you will love it. Here is a pic of mine all cleaned up.

I love the blue..

I picked one of these saws up today from an older gentleman (I also got the matching 4" Jointer from the same "model era").

I was thinking BLACK for the restoration, but I might go blue after seeing that pic.


my question for everyone.. the saw's belt tension gets VERY SLACK if the blade is "lower".. has anyone added a belt tensioner to the saw?
if not, how did you resolve having to always go back and adjust the motor/mount/belt