Proper way to fit a pick axe handle?

[KMinAF]

The handle on my pick axe broke (it had been given to me and the handle was rotted from being outside) so I picked up a nice new Hickory one from the local Cal Ranch. At this point the handle sits about 4 inches proud of the head. So, before I break out the belt sander and wood rasp, I thought it a good idea to check and see if anyone here had any suggestions on how to properly fit the handle to the head.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

On most pick/mattock type tools I've seen, the handle is left rather loose in the head, with a fair amount of material proud of the head so the head can work its way up as it seats and the wood wears. Never seen one purposely fitted tight into the head.

Charles

 

[theknurl]

lamp black or Prussian blue in the eye and use a rasp on the high spots....remember to not rotate the handle in the head while fitting it

I always leave them a little proud to allow for seasonal changes.....a couple of taps on the ground and its good to go

 

[PBCampbell]

If this the type (traditional) where the handle itself needs to be wedged into the eye of the head? We just would pound them on the ground or better yet a good wood floor. To be specific you slip the head on and let it drop, step on it to get it settled and then give it a few whacks.

 

[KRB52]

Typically, they slide on from the "user" end and the head end is tapered. Leaving some "extra" above the head shouldn't be much of a bother. You also should not need wedges or other things pounded into the end of the handle to hold on the head; like I said, it's a taper fits that holds the head on.

 

[KEH]

I wouldn't use the belt sander because you will take off too much wood, unevenly at that. You could clamp the sander in a vise and lock the trigger down. That would make the work easier to control.

Wood rasp sounds fine. Run the head down on the handle firmly enough to leave marks, rasp down the marks, repeat.

I use a broken piece of glass to shave off the high spots. Source of glass? Store where they cut glass to size, they will have plenty of broken or odd sized pieces.

KEH

 

[catalytic]

Here's the U.S. Forest Service Manual on axes, which explains how to do this properly in detail:

https://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/99232823/

Basically, you want to leave the handle around 1/4" or 3/8" proud of the pick. It should be a tight-ish but not super tight fit before you put the wedge in (basically, you want a good close fit all around the handle). Rasps and cabinet scrapers are your friend here. Also, when you pound in the wedge, hit it evenly across the top with a non-metal mallet to reduce the chance of splitting it (or put a wooden block on top of it and pound on the block).

Some people add metal wedges at a 45° angle to the wooden wedge, but this is more controversial. A wooden wedge done right needs no metal wedges, and if there's no metal, it's easy enough to drill and remove the wooden wedge and slide the head back off the handle at a later date if you want to adjust things or add a thicker wooden wedge when the handle dries/shrinks.

Linseed oil is your friend with wooden handles -- it swells the grain and makes the head tighter on the handle once it's installed (never use water to do this, as it works temporarily and then leaves you actually worse off when it evaporates in a couple days).

 

[PBCampbell]

That link is for wood axes, a completely different animal. Pick axes and their sisters mattocks are used in the dirt and I've never heard tell of one with wedges fitted probably because the loose fit helps prevent breakage.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

It's nice to be able to turn a pick axe over when done and tap it on the ground and the head come right off (sometimes a little persuasion required), it makes it easier to store, especially when it needed to go into a pioneer rack back in my Army days.

Not sure 4" sounds right though, might want to make sure you have the correct head/handle combo.

 

[Outlawmws]

Some light duty picks use double but ax handles. So depending on which pick ax, that US forest service post might be applicable. It would definitely be applicable to a Pulaski, but that's half ax half mattock

 

[zkling]

lamp black or Prussian blue in the eye and use a rasp on the high spots....remember to not rotate the handle in the head while fitting it

I always leave them a little proud to allow for seasonal changes.....a couple of taps on the ground and its good to go

This. Of course you could go the route like I usually see at garage sales which is a few drywall screws here and there.