The VISES of Garage Journal

[Outlawmws]

Heres one i haven't seen before. $15 on CG. Anyone know what it is?

For 15, another one you need to go get. where do you find them all?

 

[Outlawmws]

Hey without GJ people i never would have bought it. I did want input, and i thought it was all good.

I could have sold it as it was, and i did offer it to the board but since i kept it I didn't want to piss everyone off. So far my vises have sold ok, so i should be ok. i promise no racing stripes or naked ladies, no pink, no baby blue.

Oh sure, now its MY fault!

 

[Fretters]

With regards that latest Wilton, I'd just go for a clean up on that one DIF.

Fretters: Stirring the pot is what you do well...

It's a natural talent.

...and wondering if you have made up Carla's brew that she described earlier yet. or have you made one like that before because i think i recall you saying something like those ingredients before.

Not as yet, but I still have plenty of mixes I have yet to make and try.

Mario: Did Joe tell you Wilton stole York's design? i'd like to hear more about that and my thinking was they had two different names for different parts of the world being made by the same owners. not certain on Wilton versus York history so please enlighten me or someone else please do if you know.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111502

 

[rayh]

Drivesitfar--- The paint on my Wilton is pretty close to the last one you showed. On mine where the paint is chipped there's light surface rust(brown). How do you plan on cleaning those spots or do you just put the Linseed Oil over them??? I put a paste wax on mine for the time being. Thanks

 

[drivesitfar]

RayH: I'll probably use simple green on a rag to clean up the dust, dirt and grime then possibly take it apart to clean off the 40 years of gunk inside the vise. once my buffer is set up with some deburring wheels on it i'll shine up the non painted parts. then I'll put boiled linseed on all the bare metal parts and re grease and put it back together. it's not going to happen for a little while because i'm trying to get all my outside projects done before the famous Seattle rains start for another season.

to answer your questions yes on the bare parts where the paint is missing or chipped off I'll make sure it's smooth and just lather it up with the boiled linseed oil. Johnson paste wax works too, but I've tried some of that and you have to do repeat applications more often to keep the rust at bay.

Edit: yes i'm also planning on putting boiled linseed oil over the original painted areas too unless someone can convince me not to for some good reason.

Fretters: thanks for the link to the York history and sounds like I'll be learning another language.

and for just being you.

 

[Fretters]

Cheers DIF. Decided to mount the large Parkinson back on the bench. Got tired of moving it around, and there are the odd occasions when it comes in handy, so she's back in the spot she's been absent from for a few years.

 

[joe.striper]

For 15, another one you need to go get. where do you find them all?

Where do I find them? At places like this. Old guy in Maine. Selling blacksmith equipment. has 3-4 6" vises, most expensive is $250 and 100 lbs, and a bunch of 3-5" stuff. Going down and bringing the check book.

Oh see how big that 8" blacksmith vise is??? he has one that is one size bigger he is selling as well, but he wants $650 for the 8". He says it is north of 200#

Oh and how about this 6" Yost. Guy wants $200, which is way to high for me, but I may be able to haggle better after I chat him up a bit.

That cool green Cole vise is gone, no surprise there. I am also looking at an old arbor press and a Parker 974 that someone is selling in the same area.

You know, I'm half expecting that you guys are going to send me a bill for your advice if I keep buying these things.

 

[joe.striper]

Cheers DIF. Decided to mount the large Parkinson back on the bench. Got tired of moving it around, and there are the odd occasions when it comes in handy, so she's back in the spot she's been absent from for a few years.

Fretters, nice vise buddy but I've got to hook you up with some US Iron so you can have a proper 'vice'!

 

[Fretters]

Bah, I'm not having any of that import tat. Don't think I could cope with one of the large vices you chaps have. That one is plenty big enough and heavy enough for me. Sod's law too, the first thing I did when I was mounting it was to trap skin in the handle. She's the only vice which ever gets me with that.

 

[drivesitfar]

Fretters: good thing you're never going to buy any of those dumb looking rubber thingies so you can keep pinching your fingers that get in the way.

by the way since Parkinson looks so close to Record vices and have the quick release was Record related somehow or did they buy out Parkinson? nice looking vice by the way and you probably didn't have to drill new holes in your bench.

Joe: weren't you cursing us a few days ago before you bought the Emmert for us causing you to buy so many vises? glad to know you are over that.

Hope you have some fun looking at the big old US vises that old guy up the road owns.

 

[Fretters]

A bit of pain is good for the constitution. The holes were already there for her. Just needed to find some bolts long enough. Still need to dig out another one for the rear. She's only mounted with the front two at the moment.

Parkinson predates Record. The QR mechanism was a Parkinson invention, so Record probably just nicked the idea.

 

[Just_George]

Two that I picked up today - don't know that either qualifies as a "score", but they'll be fun.

First is a Parker 272. Overall condition isn't too bad, just the usual signs of use. Biggest problem, probably typical of the type, is that somebody broke off the pin that locks the rotating jaw in place. Good news is, I have the other piece, so assuming I can get it apart, I'll find a way to put that back together. Otherwise, strip, clean, prime and paint is the plan. Paid $89

The other is a Reed 124 1/2 - as seen in the picture, it appears it was dropped (or beat on inappropriately) and the back of the slide is broken off. My plan is to just cut it off square and cut the screw to a corresponding length and I'll have a vise that simply doesn't open quite as far. I figure to use it for sheet metal work, so it shouldn't be a problem. Paid the grand sum of $13...

 

[Fretters]

Looking at that red one, I'd be tempted to go with the shape of the damage on that one and file the curve smooth, and match it both sides. It'd give it just a bit more appeal than a straight cut. Doesn't look like you've lost too much slide length on that one. A good deal for that price, even considering the damage.

 

[drivesitfar]

JG: $100 for those two vises seems like a pretty good deal to me. if you can get the broken swivel pin out and the swivel jaw working I've seen several make new swivel pins out of a bolt or hand the two pieces to a machinist and have one made.

i tend to agree with Fretters on the repair or non repair of the red Reed. the strength will still be mostly there at the end of the screw and cutting the main screw might make it difficult or impossible to get apart or back in. your vise so do as you please.

both vises are not that common so nice finds.

 

[Outlawmws]

the missing piece on the reed is completely non structural as the pressure in use i on top at the back side of the slide. you could braise/weld the missing piece in, and it won't fail in use.

VERY nice find on the Parker. I'd like to find a small swivel jaw Parker like that to compliment the 6 incher I have.

 

[Just_George]

Thanks gents - don't have the missing piece from the slide on the Reed, so it'll boil down to whatever slight modification makes it look best. For the Parker, it appears I have the original knob/pin used to secure the rotating jaw. For reasons unknown, somebody basically hammered a bolt into the hole and sawed it off...I got that out and have started working on freeing up the rotation. Anybody have a neat trick for removing the pin that holds the rotating jaw to the base?

 

[Outlawmws]

You only showed pics from one side: Is yours not drilled all the way through? You should be able to drift it out from the far side. (I can on my 6" Parker)

 

[Just_George]

I'll look again, but it appeared that it was not drilled all the way through...perhaps I missed it.

 

[drivesitfar]

JG: you'll probably have to remove the vise nut so you can get at the pin from below if you are still talking about the pin that keeps the swivel jaw in place on the static jaw. i'm not sure that there is another pin and if so can you post a few more pictures? usually a smaller bolt than the size of the hole tapped up will kick it out of the top. since yours might have been hammered in place from above it might take some time with some kroil or PB blaster soaking on the pin before it moves. patience is always a good thing when these old tools are rusted or seem unmovable.

 

[Just_George]

Good call Outlaw - looked again and it still didn't appear that the hold was drilled thru, but after hitting the side of the static jaw with a grinder/abrasive wheel and removing all the accumulated crud, I could see where the pin came all the way thru. Took only moderate effort to drive it out and the rotating jaw lifted off without much effort.

Drivesitfar, I was talking about the horizontal pin that fits in the groove on the pivot of the rotating jaw to keep it from lifting out. As mentioned earlier, the pin that keeps the rotating jaw from rotating had been replaced with a bolt hammered in, then cut off mostly flush. I was able to get that out by drilling, tapping, and cobbling up a puller-type of affair.

My next quandary (never ends, eh?!) is this - I THOUGHT I had the original pin used to fix the rotating jaw...but it doesn't fit the hole. It's close, but slightly too big. I polished it up on the wire wheel, ran a wire brush thru the hole with a drill, still no go. Now I'm not sure I have the right pin - it's long enough, slightly too big in diameter (which I can remedy if needed) and has a mushroom shaped head on it. I'm thinking it's easier to reduce the diameter of the pin than it would be to drill out the hole in the rotating jaw and the hole below in the static jaw...yes?

Edit - the head of the 'pin' can been seen in the photo. It had been inserted into the hole where the locking lever for the rotating base would normally go (I do have a locking lever on the other side)

 

[drivesitfar]

JG: i see the pin now and since i have several other brands of swivel jaw vises and not a Parker i wasn't sure which pin you meant. happy to hear all the pins are out of the static jaw now.

as far as the new pin or re using the old one you might take a look at the Vise Repair 101 thread (link in my signature below this post) and check out about 10 to 20 posts back where RayH and Carla changed a pin on the vise jaw of a Wilton to a threaded one. might be easier to put in and take out later.

also put your question and pictures on that thread and maybe others watching that one will help you with a solution. keep at it because you sound like you are handy enough to fix it right.

good luck

 

[Just_George]

Currently reading the vise repair thread, even as we speak! We'll get 'er done, one way or another! Thanks for the help all!!

 

[McBrownie]

Currently reading the vise repair thread, even as we speak! We'll get 'er done, one way or another! Thanks for the help all!!

Outlaw,

Oh boohoo! "I need a Parker swivel jaw to go with my bigger Parker swivel jaw."

And George,
"My Parker swivel jaw has a broken pin!"

You both ****!

 

[joe.striper]

Good call Outlaw - looked again and it still didn't appear that the hold was drilled thru, but after hitting the side of the static jaw with a grinder/abrasive wheel and removing all the accumulated crud, I could see where the pin came all the way thru. Took only moderate effort to drive it out and the rotating jaw lifted off without much effort.

Drivesitfar, I was talking about the horizontal pin that fits in the groove on the pivot of the rotating jaw to keep it from lifting out. As mentioned earlier, the pin that keeps the rotating jaw from rotating had been replaced with a bolt hammered in, then cut off mostly flush. I was able to get that out by drilling, tapping, and cobbling up a puller-type of affair.

My next quandary (never ends, eh?!) is this - I THOUGHT I had the original pin used to fix the rotating jaw...but it doesn't fit the hole. It's close, but slightly too big. I polished it up on the wire wheel, ran a wire brush thru the hole with a drill, still no go. Now I'm not sure I have the right pin - it's long enough, slightly too big in diameter (which I can remedy if needed) and has a mushroom shaped head on it. I'm thinking it's easier to reduce the diameter of the pin than it would be to drill out the hole in the rotating jaw and the hole below in the static jaw...yes?

Edit - the head of the 'pin' can been seen in the photo. It had been inserted into the hole where the locking lever for the rotating base would normally go (I do have a locking lever on the other side)

Ummm, I have a Parker 272 with a broken slide, frozen top swivel and...wait for it... A perfect little pin that fits perfectly and it is out. PM me please.

 

[oldldh]

We have a new member (merbie), who has just gone to work for Ivan Dutton (Bugatti's-R-Them) in the U.K...

Thought you might like the photo he posted of a Bugatti Vise in need of some "love", and repairs...

 

[Outlawmws]

Outlaw,

Oh boohoo! "I need a Parker swivel jaw to go with my bigger Parker swivel jaw."

And George,
"My Parker swivel jaw has a broken pin!"

You both ****!

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

Rear swivel jaw is on my short list to keep an eye out for!

 

[joe.striper]

Picked up this baby bullet and power arm. Rusted to death but cleaned up nice. Got to get some of that nice green you guys have been using. Slide says 6 53 and dynamic jaw is stamped 11 X 11?

 

[bigcaddy]

We have a new member (merbie), who has just gone to work for Ivan Dutton (Bugatti's-R-Them) in the U.K...

Thought you might like the photo he posted of a Bugatti Vise in need of some "love", and repairs...

I want one of those!!

 

[macgee]

Can anyone identify this vise? Old Yost or Prentiss maybe?

Pics are bad and no info but it's for sale for only $60 but you need to go to Bakersfield, CA to get it.

Looks big and easily selling for less than a buck a pound. The pipe jaw looks like it's still there on the dynamic jaw but not on the static side.

http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/tls/4649404863.html

 

[TreePointer]

Can anyone identify this vise? Old Yost or Prentiss maybe?

Pics are bad and no info but it's for sale for only $60 but you need to go to Bakersfield, CA to get it.

Looks big and easily selling for less than a buck a pound. The pipe jaw looks like it's still there on the dynamic jaw but not on the static side.

http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/tls/4649404863.html

When I see tall jaw towers like that on a combination vise, my initial thought is Yost or Columbian. The neck before the jaws is wide and flat like a Columbian, and the long curved name on the static jaw also tells me Columbian.

As always, I reserve the right to be wrong.

 

[drivesitfar]

MacGee: i'm guessing Columbian too. for $60 it's a great deal and the stand is almost worth that much. i'm not sure how far or how much time and gas is involved, but it looks like the guy takes care of his things.

did you notice not a weed in his lawn?

 

[bigcaddy]

Can anyone identify this vise? Old Yost or Prentiss maybe?

Pics are bad and no info but it's for sale for only $60 but you need to go to Bakersfield, CA to get it.

Looks big and easily selling for less than a buck a pound. The pipe jaw looks like it's still there on the dynamic jaw but not on the static side.

http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/tls/4649404863.html

That's a Columbian all the way. If you are going to Bakersfield, make sure to bring your nomex suit so you can keep cool out there

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Just George, "the head of the 'pin' can been seen in the photo. It had been inserted into the hole where the locking lever for the rotating base would normally go (I do have a locking lever on the other side)"
A while back someone else had a 272 and we discussed the ball pin that didn't do anything but sit in that hole in the base. I think it is just a fancy plug for the hole ? I don't know if mine is repaired or the nut on top was a different way to hold the round plate inside.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Picked up this baby bullet and power arm. Rusted to death but cleaned up nice. Got to get some of that nice green you guys have been using. Slide says 6 53 and dynamic jaw is stamped 11 X 11?

Rustoleum Hammered Verde Green, also the Hammered Light Blue is a good choice. No stores here stock those colors, I have to order them from Amazon.

 

[balane]

Came across another 5" Shop King. This one was a really light user, the nicest one I've seen yet. Flat aluminum enamel up top and hammered verde green below.

.

 

[KMScott]

Nice Balane, Look at those jaws, you can see the serrations are in perfect shape, but cut a little crooked, will not effect the grip. I run into this issue when I cut straight serrations too.

 

[zkling]

Came across another 5" Shop King. This one was a really light user, the nicest one I've seen yet. Flat aluminum enamel up top and hammered verde green below.

.

You and your 5" shop kings. I still need to finish mine. Did they not all have the hardy hole? Was that an addition or subtraction in later years?

 

[balane]

I think the hardie holes were on the first ones and went away. This one was still in the original red paint (Which is just horrible to remove, like some older Craftsman vises.) and the anvil area was painted over indicating that Wilton didn't really want people to pound on it. The Shop Kings had different jaw screw arrangements over the years as well. Some had one screw in the middle and dowel pins on either side, some had two screws on the ends and a dowel in the middle and I think the last ones only had two screws like this one. This Shop King here is probably one of the last ones.

EDIT: Added a shot of the original finish so you can see the painted over anvil. My guess is that Wilton realized hammering on these wasn't a good idea and this was their way of easily removing the anvil feature. The earlier ones had bare metal anvils and hardie holes.

.

 

[jakemac]

Came across another 5" Shop King. This one was a really light user, the nicest one I've seen yet. Flat aluminum enamel up top and hammered verde green below.

.

That's a nice color combination. I like it.