Nickel Wire For Cast

[OverkillYJ]

HOLY ****!!! Nickel wire is expensive!

OK, so I need to weld a truss to a front differentlal for a 4 link suspension. One link go3es on top of the differential truss itself. I see the best way to weld this is to preheat and use nickle wire. There must be more to it...

Also, where can I buy a 1lb roll? I am only seeing at smallest 2lb. I wanted to get a 1lb .030 roll so I would have more length to work with before welding the diff.

Anything else I should know about this? Also, the truss will also connect to the tubes and go from one side of the axle to the other. The differential house welding is more or less to prevent twisting in the space between the two axle tubes since they will provide most of the strength.

Tips appreciated.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

I've never seen one that you need to weld to the casting? Normally you get a bridge style truss that takes the most stress. Think Clayton for round tube and Artec for modular. For these you'll need a good 220v mig machine to penetrate the axle tubes.

I welded the tubes to center section on a chevelle a few years ago. For that I pre-heated to about 400 deg, and then used nickel rod and stick. The thing about stick is that if you can keep the rod lit, you have a better chance of it sticking. Mig really struggles to cut into axle stuffs. I was able to buy 1lb package of ni-rod at the local welding supply.

 

[OverkillYJ]

I've never seen one that you need to weld to the casting? Normally you get a bridge style truss that takes the most stress. Think Clayton for round tube and Artec for modular. For these you'll need a good 220v mig machine to penetrate the axle tubes.

I welded the tubes to center section on a chevelle a few years ago. For that I pre-heated to about 400 deg, and then used nickel rod and stick. The thing about stick is that if you can keep the rod lit, you have a better chance of it sticking. Mig really struggles to cut into axle stuffs. I was able to buy 1lb package of ni-rod at the local welding supply.

I have a Miller 211 that is about 9 months old. For a 4 link to handle the abuse I need it to I need to add weld points to the differential housing weather I like it or not. I dont want to, but I will save quite a bit of weight over the other options. For a truss to span the diff without welds to the housing it has a lot more metal in it. I am trying to save all the weight I can, and it is about a 25-50lb difference up front.

I am going to cut this truss myself and fabricate it from scratch on top of the axle with 3/16" steel and do my best to keep it low profile while strong. I will run a few 1.5"-2.5" beads to each piece of steel that crosses the diff connecting the tubes on each side. It is the strongest/lightest/least expensive option for something this custom. It will also be integrated with the coil buckets.

I have welded diffs before to close ABS sensors and things and never had a problem using mild steel wire. With this though I cannot worry about and cracking in the welds over time. Occasionally I hit a unmovable rock or tree stump with my front axle. These control arm mounts are going to have to hold. If it comes down to it I would rather the control arm bend than the truss twist or start to tear because it is not welded to the diff. I can make a control arm much easier and faster than I can cut out and replace parts of a damaged truss.

Nice to see a Jeep guy on here BTW. I am also on Wrangler Forum with the same handle. Do you offroad and deal with custom stuff like this regularly? If so, how long have you been at it?

 

[kf4zht]

You can find nickel rods in small packs at Northern tool. When I have done cast I always broke out the stick.

 

[OverkillYJ]

You can find nickel rods in small packs at Northern tool. When I have done cast I always broke out the stick.

Yeah, I did see the sticks are so much cheaper for this. Unfortunately all I have is MIG. I refuse to take it to anyone though because it is cast. I feel more comfortable doing it myself because I can take my time, and I also care about the end result more than anyone I pay would.

 

[Stooge]

are you referring to Crown Alloys 44-30 wire? i was looking for some awhile back and the company told me they only make 2lb and up rolls. i think the 2lb roll was $65-70 so i held off until i actually need it for something rather "just to have". seems to have pretty positive reviews from people that have used it

 

[OverkillYJ]

No I did not see that. I only searched EBay and Amazon. My local welding supply (praxair, GTS Welco) doesnt have it. They dont even keep stainless in stock.

I think I am going to check a larger industrial supply place about an hour from me and see what they have. This is something I need on hand anyway for joining mild steel to cast with plugs anyway. I seem to work with cast often, it is just usually something small that doesnt take much stress which is why I dont have the wire already. I get away with mild steel for repairing cracks and things.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

I have a Miller 211 that is about 9 months old. For a 4 link to handle the abuse I need it to I need to add weld points to the differential housing weather I like it or not. I dont want to, but I will save quite a bit of weight over the other options. For a truss to span the diff without welds to the housing it has a lot more metal in it. I am trying to save all the weight I can, and it is about a 25-50lb difference up front.

I am going to cut this truss myself and fabricate it from scratch on top of the axle with 3/16" steel and do my best to keep it low profile while strong. I will run a few 1.5"-2.5" beads to each piece of steel that crosses the diff connecting the tubes on each side. It is the strongest/lightest/least expensive option for something this custom. It will also be integrated with the coil buckets.

I have welded diffs before to close ABS sensors and things and never had a problem using mild steel wire. With this though I cannot worry about and cracking in the welds over time. Occasionally I hit a unmovable rock or tree stump with my front axle. These control arm mounts are going to have to hold. If it comes down to it I would rather the control arm bend than the truss twist or start to tear because it is not welded to the diff. I can make a control arm much easier and faster than I can cut out and replace parts of a damaged truss.

Nice to see a Jeep guy on here BTW. I am also on Wrangler Forum with the same handle. Do you offroad and deal with custom stuff like this regularly? If so, how long have you been at it?

Well in that case it sounds like your only option is to continue the search for a good price on the wire. The Miller 211 would be great, as long as you are running 220v. 110v just doesn't have the snot to penetrate. You've already got lots of ideas, so I just want to help out and make sure you don't regret anything. That's the info I find most helpful when I go at it.

I am not on any jeep forums, there is just too much drama on those. I have experience with tube chassis and back halfed drag cars, mud racing jeeps and now this TJ trail jeep. I learned the most with the race jeeps. I had a 416 stroker in a CJ7, it was a little wild. It all ties together and was/is helpful. I've been at it 10 years.

 

[OverkillYJ]

Well in that case it sounds like your only option is to continue the search for a good price on the wire. The Miller 211 would be great, as long as you are running 220v. 110v just doesn't have the snot to penetrate. You've already got lots of ideas, so I just want to help out and make sure you don't regret anything. That's the info I find most helpful when I go at it.

I am not on any jeep forums, there is just too much drama on those. I have experience with tube chassis and back halfed drag cars, mud racing jeeps and now this TJ trail jeep. I learned the most with the race jeeps. I had a 416 stroker in a CJ7, it was a little wild. It all ties together and was/is helpful. I've been at it 10 years.

Thats nice. Yeah, I am running 50AMPs to my machine which is what it is meant for. The nice thing about it is when I am doing bodywork I can weld extremely thin metal and fill holes without burning it up by switching to the 20 amp outlet. Takes about 10 seconds to switch the plug without tools. I have welded 1/2" on the 50 amp though and had no problem.

http://store.millerwelds.com/commerce/product?ProdID=907422

 

[OverkillYJ]

Here is the thread from when I made my custom rock sliders and flares.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f290/steel-flares-582089.html

 

[zkling]

The crown alloy 44-30 is going to be the best "correct" solution for what you want to do, especially if there is going to be much load on this. I've burned through one spool in the past and since have acquired a tig welder, unless I had something come in that requires alot of buildup, I don't forsee buying any in the near future. I need to talk to them about using it as tig filler as my last order of 99 and 55ni rods hurt.