To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

drill and impact driver?

Jweebothee

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2014
Messages
484
Location
Albuquerque, NM
Just a quick question, i did a search but did not see what i was looking for, so i apologize if this has been asked before,

What is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? is it just a more powerful drill? and does the impact driver have any use in an automotive setting? i know i can google the answer but i figured i would get a better answer from people who use them often. Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

dutchgray

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,490
Location
Dorset. England.
The impact driver works with an impact action just the same as an air powered one does, they are great for use on cars, the 1/4 hex obviously on smaller fasteners but the 1/2 drive ones output pretty good torque.
 

monomach

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 8, 2013
Messages
1,489
Location
Illinois
Just a quick question, i did a search but did not see what i was looking for, so i apologize if this has been asked before,

What is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? is it just a more powerful drill? and does the impact driver have any use in an automotive setting? i know i can google the answer but i figured i would get a better answer from people who use them often. Thanks
A drill has a drill chuck. An impact driver has a female hex and has an impacting action. Think of it as a power screwdriver on steroids. It is not nearly as good for drilling as a drill. For automotive, it has a use for smaller nuts and bolts that don't have serious torque, much the same use that a powerful drill has under the hood. But yeah...it's real use is for screws and lags.

The impact driver works with an impact action just the same as an air powered one does, they are great for use on cars, the 1/4 hex obviously on smaller fasteners but the 1/2 drive ones output pretty good torque.

No such thing as a 1/2" impact driver. For 1/2", you get an impact wrench with a square drive rather than a driver with a hex.

Drill = chuck that tightens on bit
Driver = hex
Wrench = square anvil
 
Last edited:

DeliveryGuy

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
294
Location
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
A drill is a continuous drive device. So, you have to resist with your arms every bit as hard as the drill is turning. An impact driver is not continuous drive. Think of striking a wrench with a hammer to loosen a bolt, as opposed to using your body to pull it. This is how an impact driver turns a fastener. Short, interrupted, rotational impacts. So when you drive a big screw, the driver doesn't twist your arm off like a drill would. This is very good for screws and bolts, but not very good for larger drill bits, spade bits, and hole saws.
 

Jwych

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 30, 2014
Messages
335
Location
Sioux city Iowa
I use my impact driver at work mostly for screws in lights, works great for old corroded lighting screws. I will also use an adapter so I can use sockets and use it on bolts I know won't take much to take out such as hub cap bolts on semi trailers, saves a lot of time as opposed to using a ratchet
 

firebox40dash5

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
4,185
A drill is a continuous drive device. So, you have to resist with your arms every bit as hard as the drill is turning. An impact driver is not continuous drive. Think of striking a wrench with a hammer to loosen a bolt, as opposed to using your body to pull it. This is how an impact driver turns a fastener. Short, interrupted, rotational impacts. So when you drive a big screw, the driver doesn't twist your arm off like a drill would. This is very good for screws and bolts, but not very good for larger drill bits, spade bits, and hole saws.

I've never tried a hole saw or an >1/4" twist drill, but I have a set of Bosch spade bits that have a 1/4" hex shaft with the groove for a hex impact, as well as several smaller twist bits I use for quick holes with my impact driver, usually in sheet metal, plywood, or drilling rivets. I really like the impact for those uses over a drill, because of the higher torque and low reaction force. Nothing like not breaking your wrist when a 1-1/2" spade bit hits a hard spot. :lol:

Probably a bit slower than a massive drill with a side handle, but a lot easier to use, and more versatile. :thumbup:
 

Ign

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
The impact driver is the only reason Phillips drive is still around. Even so I use square drive exclusively.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

chrisexv6

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
2,290
Location
CT
I assembled my kids big a$$ Costco swingset with the impact driver alone. 3/8" lags, 1/2" lags, wood screws, whatever. All with an impact driver.

I tried to drive the first lag with the drill....the impact driver gives you a much better audible "notice" that the fastener is tightened (or close to tightened), whereas the drill gives you a much better "physical" notice by basically trying to snap your wrist off your forearm.

I also get a kick out of watching DIY shows where people try to use a drill to drive drywall screws.....hey look your drill just drove the screw right through the drywall! Impact driver would at least be a massive improvement (for those that dont want to buy an actual drywall screw gun)
 

Voi

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
5,154
Location
Western South Dakota
What is the difference between a drill and an impact driver? is it just a more powerful drill? and does the impact driver have any use in an automotive setting? i know i can google the answer but i figured i would get a better answer from people who use them often. Thanks

I'd also search drill vs. impact driver on YouTube. Most video comparisons will be driving screws or lags but you might find some relevance to auto work.

For what it is worth, I'd rather drill with an impact than drive or do socket work with a drill. Drilling with an impact can be done with hex shanked bits as mentioned in post #9 or with a removable hex shanked chuck.

Of course if it was strictly for auto work an impact wrench would be the better choice. You might also search impact driver vs. impact wrench if you're on YouTube.
 

Ign

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
I'd also search drill vs. impact driver on YouTube. Most video comparisons will be driving screws or lags but you might find some relevance to auto work.

For what it is worth, I'd rather drill with an impact than drive or do socket work with a drill. Drilling with an impact can be done with hex shanked bits as mentioned in post #9 or with a removable hex shanked chuck.

Of course if it was strictly for auto work an impact wrench would be the better choice. You might also search impact driver vs. impact wrench if you're on YouTube.

Love my impact drivers for self-drilling, self-tapping sheetmetal screws. Less likely the snap the screw as you're driving it into metal. Trailer decking screws too (but those have gotta be pre-drilled in most applications).
 

RedRabbit

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
1,052
Location
SoCal
I'm not sure the automotive use of an impact driver, they are best for screws not bolts.
 

firebox40dash5

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
4,185
I'm not sure the automotive use of an impact driver, they are best for screws not bolts.

Interior work, light underhood work (air filter housings, silly engine covers, belt tensioners...), self-tappers, skidplates....

I used to use my 18V Makita driver with a 3/8" adapter to take lug nuts off. :lol: That was far from ideal, but it worked about half the time.
 

vartz04

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2009
Messages
1,882
Location
LaSalle County IL
I use my impact driver for automotive use all the time. Harbor freight, home Depot, and Lowes all sell adapters that let you use 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets. It works great for dashboard bolts, and other small fasteners. You can also use it once you Crack larger bolts loose to speed things up. Same thing during assembly but you might need to finish it off with a wrench. Some of the 18-20 volt guns have 125+ftlbs of torque (usually they give it in in/lbs but you can do the math)
 

DeliveryGuy

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
294
Location
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
I've never tried a hole saw or an >1/4" twist drill, but I have a set of Bosch spade bits that have a 1/4" hex shaft with the groove for a hex impact, as well as several smaller twist bits I use for quick holes with my impact driver, usually in sheet metal, plywood, or drilling rivets. I really like the impact for those uses over a drill, because of the higher torque and low reaction force. Nothing like not breaking your wrist when a 1-1/2" spade bit hits a hard spot. :lol:

Probably a bit slower than a massive drill with a side handle, but a lot easier to use, and more versatile. :thumbup:

Yeah, punching yourself in the face with a drill *****. I have the Dewalt spade bits with the hex shank. If I'm only drilling a few holes, it's quicker just to just my impact driver. If I'm drilling a lot of holes, or holes through several layers of lumber, then I get a cordless drill. Even with 3/4" spade bits, a drill is a lot faster. I did however buy one of those 1/4 shank keyless chucks for using twist bits in my driver, and it works great, except for thick steel like 3/8" or more.
 

ajchien

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2010
Messages
2,656
Location
Los Angeles, stuck on the 60 freeway.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the clutch on most drills.

You can set a drill's clutch so that all screws are equally tightened, and none over tightened. So, on the first screw in a material, you set the clutch just enough so that your screw fully seats, but you're not driving it too deep. After that, every other screw is virtually just right.

On the other hand, the impact is when your drill just doesn't have enough juice to drive that 3" deck screw. Say your screw is 3/4 of the way in, and that cordless drill just doesn't have the battery oomph to complete the task. The impact should pound the thing in, no sweat.

Most of the time, I use the impact for driving screws in wood projects ... Unless I'm doing pocket hole joinery or needing not to over tighten screws, which is when the drill with clutch comes into use.
 
Last edited:

RedRabbit

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
1,052
Location
SoCal
Interior work, light underhood work (air filter housings, silly engine covers, belt tensioners...), self-tappers, skidplates....

I used to use my 18V Makita driver with a 3/8" adapter to take lug nuts off. :lol: That was far from ideal, but it worked about half the time.

Thanks for the heads up, all I do is performance parts, limited experience.
 

SASORacing

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
964
Location
Utah
I'm not sure the automotive use of an impact driver, they are best for screws not bolts.

I use a impact with a hex to 3/8 adapter on bolts at least %50 of the time. If i can fit my impact gun on any bolt I will do so vs a hand ratchet. The huge benefit is speed, It is very fast and speedy to use an impact and can make jobs go twice as quick.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom