Wood beam type manufactures

[backintheday]

I'm thinking bout building a barn type shop, clear span 40x64 but I would like to have exposed beams and posts instead of trusses. I know this isn't easy because of the width but I'm curious to see if there is any manufacure out there that builds these type of kits. I know about socket systems, I emailed them and didn't get a reply and the phone number didn't seem to be active. There is a company in Montana called Dandi but haven't heard back from them either. Anybody know of any other companys they have dealt with or heard of?

Thanks much

 

[LB-1911]

Possible source.

Country Carpenters
http://www.countrycarpenters.com/

Timberframe Barn Raising

 

[wssix99]

Just search for post and beam houses near you: http://www.precisioncraft.com/Regions/Wyoming.html

 

[wnstwolf]

See if you have any soft wood lumber mills in your area. The great room of our home is Douglas fir timber framed that all came about due to finding a mill less than 5 miles away. That little find has been good bad as once you make friends you will spend a lot of time and money.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm thinking bout building a barn type shop, clear span 40x64 but I would like to have exposed beams and posts instead of trusses.

40' wide, with a 7/12 pitch, the rafters (without tail) would be less than 24' so it is do able.

The big issue is no joists, no rafter ties, no collar ties. In the Socket System video , the owner used steel beams to maximize the second floor load. Not only do those beams (floor joists) support the floor but they prevent the wall from bowing out from the load of the rafters. This is critical.


Sorry to hear that Socket Systems may have folded. I had seen it before and it looked like a good DIY system. Any architectural engineer company could design those type of joints and they could be fabbed locally for you. Obviously, this would make the costs a lot higher,


Going in the totally opposite direction, you might consider SIP construction with faux beam and post ! Incredibly energy efficient.

 

[theoldwizard1]

2 GJ threads (neither recent)

Anybody use socket systems / lumber link style timber frame?

my new shop

 

[Stuart in MN]

You may want to search for companies that build laminated beams for churches or similar buildings. Here's a couple:
http://unitedchurchstructures.com/laminated_beam.html
http://unalam.com/~unalam/index.php/our-products/custom-laminated-beams/

 

[backintheday]

See if you have any soft wood lumber mills in your area. The great room of our home is Douglas fir timber framed that all came about due to finding a mill less than 5 miles away. That little find has been good bad as once you make friends you will spend a lot of time and money.

I have a mill less then 3 miles away, as the crow flies about a mile away, he cut a bunch of timbers for my house build. My concern there is the twisting of the timbers and I don't think they're are strong as laminated beams. It sure looks awesome though!! I plan to build a timber frame house some day, I love the look and feel of that style.

Thanks for the help.

 

[backintheday]

40' wide, with a 7/12 pitch, the rafters (without tail) would be less than 24' so it is do able.

The big issue is no joists, no rafter ties, no collar ties. In the Socket System video , the owner used steel beams to maximize the second floor load. Not only do those beams (floor joists) support the floor but they prevent the wall from bowing out from the load of the rafters. This is critical.


Sorry to here that Socket Systems may have folded. I had seen it before and it looked like a good DIY system. Any architectural engineer company could design those type of joints and they could be fabbed locally for you. Obviously, this would make the costs a lot higher,

Going in the totally opposite direction, you might consider SIP construction with faux beam and post ! Incredibly energy efficient.




I'm not 100% they have folded but I never heard back and I saw a couple posts about the same issue.

Your idea about the faux posts with SIPs is my last resort, I plan to use SIPs if possible, can't beat the efficency and ease of construction of those things.


I thought about fabing up my own socket system type joints, that is still an option if need be.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[wnstwolf]

They will check but should not twist. Mine dried for about 10 months and other than some checking have been great. Longest I have are 22'. Would do it again. Only thing I warn is the markings on the beams when they are stacked to dry. We wanted the rough sawn look so did not have them planed. After they dried the shims that were between the timbers caused light stripes which in the end had us plane the timbers. Two years later they have aged beautifully and look great. Our mill had a supplier of metal tie plates if we went that route. I played Amish redneck and morticed and tennoned the system. Almost bought the cool tools but they are very expensive. Instead a few special large router bits a commercial router and a tool you can't do without a parizzi saw that attached to a worm drive circ saw. Loved it.
Mill a so supplied all my T&G boards which were 1" touch and on average 10" wide. This is my sub floor on second level but act as the ceiling for the first level. Just need to be careful when nailing down wood floor!!!,

We used a mix of 10x10 for structure
10x18 was the ridge at 24' long that thing was a bear to install
8x8 minor structure
8x4 as joists and other areas.
Once you get a design drawn out the mill will cut the a bit long and either kiln dry or air if you have the time.
Have fun it was a great process and I would do it again. Just remember these things get heavy. A HVAC crank lift is a great tool to get them up in the air if you are limited on helpers.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I thought about fabing up my own socket system type joints, that is still an option if need be.

Unless you have engineered, stamped drawing and you are a "certified" welder, your joints won't likely pass an inspection.

I'm not saying you are a poor welder. That is just the way it is.

 

[theoldwizard1]

They will check but should not twist. Mine dried for about 10 months and other than some checking have been great.

Are you better off letting the log dry before sawing ? That could be up to a couple of years and really should be under a roof.

 

[backintheday]

Unless you have engineered, stamped drawing and you are a "certified" welder, your joints won't likely pass an inspection.

I'm not saying you are a poor welder. That is just the way it is.

I live in what I consider one of the last true free states in this country. We don't have inspectors. At least not in my county.
WY ***** you don't want to live here...