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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

GDPossehl

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Sep 23, 2014
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450
Location
Atlanta, GA
I just powered through this entire thread today as this type of work is just now coming into my wheelhouse (we're closing on our first house Oct 31st). This is one of the best threads of any kind that I've read in a LONG time. Let's just say my productivity today took a major hit, and I stayed late after work on a Friday to finish it. I look forward to the progress of this build!

P.S. First post!
 
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sakurama

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Oct 10, 2010
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Location
Portland - the cool one.
I just powered through this entire thread today as this type of work is just now coming into my wheelhouse (we're closing on our first house Oct 31st). This is one of the best threads of any kind that I've read in a LONG time. Let's just say my productivity today took a major hit, and I stayed late after work on a Friday to finish it. I look forward to the progress of this build!

P.S. First post!

Glad you've found something of interest in the thread. Congrats on joining and be sure you get your free pencil with your first post!

Gregor
 

KGB Pilot125

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Oct 12, 2013
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117
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Colorado
I did too. :eek:
Yeah, I'm about to be in the same boat. I'm am just about through the 10 pack of cheap plastic mechanicals and I told my self if you can b use them all without losing any then I can get a nice one. Kinda like sunglasses.

Gregor I also just purchased a CR500 I am thinking I want to make it street legal since it had a Colorado title. Great for getting back and forth to the office.
 

red j

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Oct 3, 2014
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Wichita, KS
Gregor,

Another dude from Advrider.

Looks great and very inspiring. Always enjoyed your threads, especially 3-up to Labrador.

My Festool dealer thanks you.

J.
 
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sakurama

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Portland - the cool one.
It's been a busy summer and while that's good it's meant not much time for the house or riding - which is bad. But, because I've been so lax here I felt like I needed to kick my *** into gear and get something done. So here's where I was:

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This vent is emblematic of the difficulty of seemingly small projects that turn out to be more complicated than you expect. Make a box for it out of dry wall and move on right? Well, leave it to me to make it more difficult.

Since the ceiling is cedar I decide to make the box from cedar and the multiple angles are complicated to miter and fit. In addition I decide that I don't want to use the white plastic vent cover that came with the exhaust fan. It's fine on a white ceiling but on this it will be out of place.

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With most of my angles calculated I lay out a circle for the fan.

I found a good deal on a (like) new Festool Carvex jigsaw and wasn't sure if I was going to keep the old one or the new one so this was the first chance to really use it.

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The saw has a strobe timed to the blade and it makes the blade appear frozen in place. Turns out it's not a gimmick and actually made it easier to see the blade cutting. It's also a bit lighter. I guess I'm selling the old one so this one will only cost me the difference which is $50 A small upgrade cost and another benefit of Festool is the great resale.

With the circle cut out I decide that I want to use some stainless perf metal that I have in the shop and decide to make a mold to help shape it - because just screwing it in behind the wood would be easy.

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You think of a truck as heavy but it's really not once you divide the weight between the four wheels. This was a failed experiment and a reminder that I need to build my shop press.

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Instead I took the circle that I'd cut from the vent board and rounded over the edge on the router and then screwed the mesh onto it in nine spots to keep it from moving.

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Then I used some mapp gas and a small hammer to work the edge over...

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And that seemed to do a pretty good job.

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Then I fit it to the panel and used even more screws and, lacking a proper teardrop mallet I used a ball peen hammer to further round the mesh into the panel using my shot bag as the backer.

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And finally I get a test fit and it's looking pretty good. I don't like the hard edge of the wood but I'll round that over.

Then I started on the medicine cabinet for the bath upstairs. I had designed one that would be extremely long and even drew it out on the wall and then decided, after marking a few studs, that I should go back and look through my shots to find one of the wall before it was rocked since I couldn't recall if there was power up high or not.

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I learned a few things when I found this shot. Namely that my old camera wasn't even close to as nice as my new Sony and that there was a vent pipe that didn't show up when I was marking studs with the stud finder and that would have been a real bummer to have cut open the whole wall only to discover that. So I went back to the studs and planned to fit the cabinet between the double stud under the beam and the one next to the vent pipe.

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If you're looking for a stud finder this one from Franklin Sensors is amazing. It's dead nuts accurate and shows you the width of the studs. Here it's showing the double stud under the beam.

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Then I used the Fein to cut the sheet rock and expose the space for the medicine cabinet leaving 18mm on the left side to fur around the wire in the stud.

And so that's where I'm at - bathroom stuff. It's boring but it's small progress and I have to be happy with that.

Gregor
 

RKA

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NJ
Finally a post that doesn't cost me money! :) I do love how you turn the ordinary into something more. Carvex, check. Franklin stud finder, check!

I would never have thought to do that for the vent, but it looks great!

BTW, about that stud finder, it's excellent, like most things Gregor recommends. I've been frustrated by most. Because of the inconsistent results, I'm often checking, re-checking, re-checking and settling on the reading I see more than 60% of the time. The Franklin sensor does really well on sheetrock'd walls. Only once has it given be odd readings, and I never did open up the wall to discover why that was the case. The rest of the time it identifies the boundaries of the stud in one pass. In any case, I was trolling the aisles of my local Costco last week and spotted this. It looks identical to the Franklin in every way but color. I guess Franklin licensed out their design? It's a little cheaper than the Franklin unit as well.

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OJ Bartley

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May 18, 2009
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605
Location
Toronto, ON
You mean you guys can't determine the stud's location accurately to within 1/16th using the ol' knock method? Rookies. ;)

*Disclaimer: I have had to get aggressive in downplaying all of Gregor's cool accessory posts. My wallet and my wife teamed up against me, and I lost the vote.
 

rvieceli

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Nov 3, 2013
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775
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Illinois
Looks good, Gregor........

BUT...... shouldn't you have taken a router and routed out a rabbet ion the face of that board. Cut the square corners off the mesh to round it to fit the rabbet. Then milled a retaining ring from a piece of stainless you had laying around the shop. You could then have tigged some threaded studs to the back and used that to hold it in place.

Just saying.... ;-)
 

elvee

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Nov 1, 2006
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Atlanta, GA
Gregor, great stuff. Your approach is a lot like mine - if there is an easy way, and a hard way, I'll think of another solution that is even more difficult and time consuming.

One note on the link to the stud finder - I had a small heart attack when I saw a $190 stud finder. Then I realized it was for a four pack. The single unit is about $50 it seems.

And what is the going price on the "old" jigsaw"?
 
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sakurama

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Oct 10, 2010
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Portland - the cool one.
Or you could have found a car stereo grille that fit and just used that...

That's a cool idea. I should have looked into that. Would have been too easy though.

Gregor, great stuff. Your approach is a lot like mine - if there is an easy way, and a hard way, I'll think of another solution that is even more difficult and time consuming.

It's a problem right? I am always looking for ways to speed the process but I can't stand to look at a half assed job. Tough to find the balance.

Looks good, Gregor........

BUT...... shouldn't you have taken a router and routed out a rabbet ion the face of that board. Cut the square corners off the mesh to round it to fit the rabbet. Then milled a retaining ring from a piece of stainless you had laying around the shop. You could then have tigged some threaded studs to the back and used that to hold it in place.

Just saying.... ;-)

You, are not looking for that balance - just saying! Sheesh.

You mean you guys can't determine the stud's location accurately to within 1/16th using the ol' knock method? Rookies. ;)

I'm real good at that method if I pair it with the dozen missed screws technique.

Finally a post that doesn't cost me money! :)

Ha. I'll keep working on it! Nice find though.

_____________________________ ||| ___________________________

I got a little bit done today and am hoping to get the bath done by tomorrow. Judiaann is out of town and I like to have something tangible done whenever she's gone so when she comes home she see some progress. I like that when I leave too.

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So I made the frame for the medicine cabinet to fit within the stud space. It's a pretty narrow space once you take away the back and the two sliding doors - those were about 30 of my 100mm.

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I had extra drawer dividers from the kitchen so I ripped them a little narrower and then cut some dado's for them and left the space in the center for taller things. I didn't rabbet the corners or inset the back - it won't be seen and I'm trying to get stuff done now, not practice my skill set.

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And finally it was done, sanded and my first coat of satin poly is on it. Here you can see the deep upper dado's for the sliding doors. They're about 1/2" deep and the lowers are 1/4" deep and the doors are just a tiny bit under the total distance minus a 1/4" so that you can lift them up into the deep slot and remove them or install them. Just like a normal one but in wood.

Lastly is the sliding doors. The 1/4" balic birch I had was warped about an inch over the length. While I could squeeze them into the slots it obviously bound so I went to the internet to look for a solution - and found one!

On one of the wood working sights a person mentioned his technique and so I tried it:

1. spray a light mist of water on the inside of the warp.

2. Lay the wood wet side down in the sun and wait.

3. I put the 8" lathe chuck on the pair of pieces with a 3/4" board spanning the middle and left it for about 2-3 hours.

It worked. I'm sort of amazed but it flattened right out. In order to keep it from going back I glued my white formica onto the opposite side (the non wet side that was bowed out) which I think will help resist it coming back.

Tomorrow I'm going to install all of it and try to get the rest of the trim up.

Gregor
 

OJ Bartley

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Toronto, ON
Cabinet is looking great, Gregor. We have narrow medicine cabs too, and it really isn't that limiting. Her big fat hairbrushes are the only thing I've noticed that won't go in, and it's nice to have different compartments... I'm guessing you'll get one whole section (mostly) to yourself in the end?

Edit: I just had a thought... the tall middle section could probably have a hook or two mounted up high to hang brushes that are too wide to sit on the shelf (if you run into the same problem), if the bristles will clear the doors.
 
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rvieceli

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Nov 3, 2013
Messages
775
Location
Illinois
Don't forget to put an old school slot in the back of that cabinet, so you can drop used razor blades into the stud cavity behind it.
 

ra88it

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Jul 19, 2014
Messages
1
First, beautiful home and wonderful bikes. Amazing tool collection as well!

Didn't notice if you've solved your teflon tape woes or not, but coming from the fleet and air ride worlds... blue loctite is the end all be all on any metal threads that you want to be 100% leak free and very easy to service should you want to expand or swap fittings. Not to mention it satisfies all OCD-ness!

Generally goes like this:

Apply blue loctite to threads. Screw fitting into block. Wipe excess with a cloth. Wait an hour or so (ambient ~70*F+) and pressurize the system.
 
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sakurama

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Oct 10, 2010
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Portland - the cool one.
I remember my grandfather had a slot for disposing of razors - I always thought that was cool but since I have the greatest likelihood of being the person who will open the wall again I'll pass on that.

Good tip on the locktite as well. Did not know that one.

So I managed to get the bathroom about 95% done and for now that's good for me - I'll probably start on another project now. Most of what needs finishing is to caulk the miters and just paint the trim - touch up stuff.

The cabinet turned out great. I now wish I'd made it larger but oh well. When I get around to finishing the linen closet outside the bathroom (the old chimney run) I'll leave a shelf in there for the tall stuff. For the small stuff it's great and takes some mess out of the drawers.

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Then it was time to put in the vent cover. That wasn't a big deal as it took only a couple of screws to hold it in place and I planned on covering them with trim. Trim, however, was a pain.

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The Festool miter tool was helpful for these tight angles but I still had to do some sanding to fit them together as they were so acute.

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Coming from a motorcycle, metal shop fabrication background it occurred to me that I'd most likely have a much easier time coping the trim of quarter round with a hole-saw so I made a small jig to hold the trim and used a 1" bit to cope the 1/2" quarter round. It worked out perfectly and was much easier and faster. Score another point for looking for the easy/lazy way of doing things.

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I'm on the fence about whether I do quarter round around the beams. It feels overly fussy to wrap the trim around the beam so I may just try for a clean tape line and repaint. Pulling the tape out a bit may allow for a straight line where the beam has a bit of warp to it. Black does wonders for hiding everything from a few extra pounds to warped walls and trim. It's the miracle cure!

Okay, it might be a bit before my next update but I hope to come back with guns blazing.

Gregor
 
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Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
I'm on the fence about whether I do quarter round around the beams. It feels overly fussy to wrap the trim around the beam so I may just try for a clean tape line and repaint. Pulling the tape out a bit may allow for a straight line where the beam has a bit of warp to it. Black does wonders for hiding everything from a few extra pounds to warped walls and trim. It's the miracle cure!

Okay, it might be a bit before my next update but I hope to come back with guns blazing.

Gregor

Excellent design and workmanship, as usual. I wouldn't put 1/4 round or shoe or anything else at the end of the beams. I looks clumsy to me. I like to tape off something like that, run a bead of caulk and flatten it out with a wet rag. Then pull the tape right away while the caulk is soft. If you do it right it leave a perfect edge which you should lightly scribe later for a cut line for the 2 colors.
 
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sakurama

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Cabinet and fan box came out great. It does look a little like a subwoofer!

I ran across this link today and thought it just screamed "Gregor". http://onefourthreefour.com/2011/plate-hose-bib/

Thanks. That's in interesting site and you're right, that's right up my alley. Or up my bib???

Excellent design and workmanship, as usual. I wouldn't put 1/4 round or shoe or anything else at the end of the beams. I looks clumsy to me. I like to tape off something like that, run a bead of caulk and flatten it out with a wet rag. Then pull the tape right away while the caulk is soft. If you do it right it leave a perfect edge which you should lightly scribe later for a cut line for the 2 colors.

I think you're exactly right. It would look fussy and complicated. Good idea about the caulk - I have about a dozen tubes ready for finishing and I need to start painting the door jams and trim black to carry it through. I'll start that this week.

Thanks guys!!

Gregor
 

TimRaleigh

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Nov 27, 2013
Messages
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In order to keep it from going back I glued my white formica onto the opposite side (the non wet side that was bowed out) which I think will help resist it coming back.

Gregor

When applying Laminate to doors or drawer fronts etc. you apply a backing panel of HPL (high pressure laminate) to balance the panel, otherwise it will warp again. Most HPL manufacturers make backers specifically for this purpose when laminate is applied to doors, but you can use what you have.

Cabinet looks good.
Tim
 

Just F Me

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Aug 3, 2012
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If you're looking for a stud finder this one from Franklin Sensors is amazing. It's dead nuts accurate and shows you the width of the studs. Here it's showing the double stud under the beam.


Gregor
OK cool...this is a cheap and cool tool to buy. All your other Festool stuff has cost me but I'm having a blast.

Great work as always! Keep going!
 

LCG

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May 27, 2012
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GDL :: MX
What kind of finish did you use on the vent cover?

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I'm building a house and I intend to leave all the wood raw and oil it but, this looks oh so nice!
 
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sakurama

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What kind of finish did you use on the vent cover?

I'm building a house and I intend to leave all the wood raw and oil it but, this looks oh so nice!

I've used a satin finish on everything so far. It's always been a good balance for me between the ease of cleaning of gloss and the covering ability of matt. For the wood I've been using a Satin poly - way back in the early part of this thread I tested a bunch of different finishes and found that the satin poly gave the nicest finish with the most warmth. I'd love to use water base (for the simplicity) but it imparted no warmth and left a milky clear finish that didn't appeal to me.

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This is the exact finish I've used and I've been very happy with it. One word of warning that we discovered early on - be sure you mix the finish well. The satin component of the clear settles and if not mixed will give a glossy finish which obviously won't match the rest. Don't shake, stir. The shaking will make bubbles which will take a very long time to settle out.

As for the idea of oil - I think that it's a very pretty finish but one that will require maintenance. I am having a hard enough time getting things done the first time so I sure as hell wouldn't want to have to redo the surfaces every few years which you may with oil. Satin poly gives a similar look but is much longer wearing. Just my thoughts.

Gregor

PS here's a good video on a way to clean oil based brushes. Variations on this are many but the key is to brush or comb out the bristles.

 
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sakurama

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OK cool...this is a cheap and cool tool to buy. All your other Festool stuff has cost me but I'm having a blast.

Today is a reconditioned tool sale day - jump on it if you've been on the fence:

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tools/reconditioned/

40% off Festool doesn't happen often (ever??) and it's a better deal than you could get even if buying used.

Gregor

PS No affiliation but I've found that when the recon sale happens most people have a hard time getting through - such as my local dealer who can never be bothered - and when that happens I order through http://thefestoolstore.com and they manage to get through. I just picked up a 55 REQ as the deal was so good I will be able to sell my 75 and it will cost me nothing. The 75 has been feeling a bit large as off late and so the time is right to make the switch.
 
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rice rocket

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Mar 24, 2011
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Seems like Bob Marino is the guy to go to for reconditioned stuff, he's always up at midnight, ready to field order. Looks like he was filling until 4 AM this morning. Talk about dedication!

Festool could organize this around noon instead of midnight and save people some sleep, but hey, it seems to work either way (the list was 3x the size last night).

I'm still holding out for a RO 90 and a CT 26.
 

red j

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Wichita, KS
Seems like Bob Marino is the guy to go to for reconditioned stuff, he's always up at midnight, ready to field order. Looks like he was filling until 4 AM this morning. Talk about dedication!

Festool could organize this around noon instead of midnight and save people some sleep, but hey, it seems to work either way (the list was 3x the size last night).

I'm still holding out for a RO 90 and a CT 26.

There has only been a few RO90s (that I missed...) on the 10/20/30% recon in the past few weeks. I haven't seen any CTs other than the Mini/Midi.

The list is less than 50% of what it was this morning and I suspect it will be gone after today.
 

rice rocket

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Gregor, I've texted Bob in the past (same number he provides on his site) when I wasn't sure if he was up and didn't want to wake him, turns out he was awake still. That might be easier during the times when he's flooded.

Reportedly this is running for the whole month and they're working hard to add more things to the sale, so keep hammering that refresh button. :)
 
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sakurama

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So this is a post that's sort of meant to shame me into getting my *** in gear. Someone had asked for a shot over the garage overall and I realized that I did want to shoot a photo to show the progress but lately, with the addition of another bike and trying to do the woodwork necessary for the house - well, it's just gotten out of hand.

i-xWdXsj2-X2.jpg


See what I mean? It turned into one of the those situations where in order to work I had to move two bikes out. Hell, just to get into the garage I had to crawl past the 990. I can ignore that sort of thing for only so long so last week I started to work on it. The trouble is one thing leads to another. I needed to get the lumber stored in there out but that meant consolidating all of it and organizing it. I don't have a before picture because it was so bad I was embarrassed. Everything was just tossed into the little mud room between the garage and the house.

i-pDQRZBj-X2.jpg


I made a lumber rack for off cuts. Progress. I'm making some shelves too. The goal is to get the garage in a workable state so I can start on the kitchen drawer fronts and cabinets.

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Oh, and I want to paint the garage door so I'm hoping for a break in the weather but I cleaned it and bought more purple paint... Ha, kidding. I'm going to paint it black. WTF is with the purple in the this house? It's my least favorite color and it's everywhere! Sheesh! A black door will give me a nice background for posting **** on ebay.

Okay, more this week I promise.

Gregor
 

Terranova

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May 12, 2008
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854
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Grove City, OH
....I see a purple door and I want it painted bla-ack....

I see why they chose white for the song.

The picture of your garage "stuffed" just proves that things move yin and yang.
 
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