How would I go about installing this water booster pump?

[moneyisflying]

I want to install a water booster pump to my shower line to increase the shower pressure. I started another thread on this but it got way out of hand with people feeding me info on what they thought was my problem. So, I want to stay specific and on topic here about installing a booster pump like this; http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A3G81V6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1412814149&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Can it be done to a 1/2" PEX line? The other thing is I have a individual hot PEX line and a cold PEX line. Is there a way to use the pump for both? Or am I going to need 2 pumps here? Anyone have any info?

 

[Daves69]

I have read most of the other thread, and have thought about what you are trying to do. The government started regulating toilet and shower flow ratings back in the nineties. This is when the the 1.6 gallon toilets came to be, also the amount of water flowing through the shower was regulated to 2.2 gal. Per minute at 60 psi. Some of this flow restriction is probably in the mixing valve. The type of shower you wish to experience is not just the amount of pressure but also the volume. A boost bump may not be able to raise the pressure enough if there is not enough volume flowing through the mixing valve.
First of all what mixing valve do you have?
Try looking into some of the commercial valves like the hotels use. These always seem to have more flow than my home shower especially at the tub diverter spout.
These are just some of my thoughts on what has been posted.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I don't think you can use that pump for both hot and cold. Only one input and one output.
You could plumb it in after the mixing valve (thus allowing control of the water temperature).

I expect that the mixing valve and/or shower head will be limit the flow and will result in destroying the pump. They don't list any pressure ratings but 976 Gallons per hour = 16.26 Gallons per minute.

As far as 1/2" PEX sure, why not. They don't list any port sizes but I'm sure you can find adapters that will allow you to connect everything.

Myself, I avoid buying any product when the seller (or manufacturer) doesn't provide the critical specifications.

 

[moneyisflying]

I have read most of the other thread, and have thought about what you are trying to do. The government started regulating toilet and shower flow ratings back in the nineties. This is when the the 1.6 gallon toilets came to be, also the amount of water flowing through the shower was regulated to 2.2 gal. Per minute at 60 psi. Some of this flow restriction is probably in the mixing valve. The type of shower you wish to experience is not just the amount of pressure but also the volume. A boost bump may not be able to raise the pressure enough if there is not enough volume flowing through the mixing valve.
First of all what mixing valve do you have?
Try looking into some of the commercial valves like the hotels use. These always seem to have more flow than my home shower especially at the tub diverter spout.
These are just some of my thoughts on what has been posted.

I don't know what kind of mixing valve I have, or how to really find out past taking it out. My shower is just a shower, as in its not a tub shower combo. Is the valve somewhere in the handle that turns the shower on and adjusts the temp? It would be sure easier to adjust or replace a valve compared to adding the pump.

I don't think you can use that pump for both hot and cold. Only one input and one output.
You could plumb it in after the mixing valve (thus allowing control of the water temperature).

I expect that the mixing valve and/or shower head will be limit the flow and will result in destroying the pump. They don't list any pressure ratings but 976 Gallons per hour = 16.26 Gallons per minute.

As far as 1/2" PEX sure, why not. They don't list any port sizes but I'm sure you can find adapters that will allow you to connect everything.

Myself, I avoid buying any product when the seller (or manufacturer) doesn't provide the critical specifications.

Yeah, I was looking at the same thing after I posted the link. I think I would have to just install it on the hot side maybe to make it work? Other issue is that I read somewhere in the pumps reviews that it would not turn on until the pressure was below 40 psi. Since my system starts at 63 psi and ends at 51 psi, I am not sure it would work or help much without restricting water flow to the pump first.

I have seen twin impeller pumps that has dual hookups (one for hot and one for the cold) that seem like a better solution, however they are out of the UK, and I don't know how I feel about running or rigging the electrical to work for the US voltage and frequency.

Besides all that, if the mixing valve is indeed restricting flow, then as you said it may do me no good to increase pressure prior to the valve.

Thank you both for the input.

Sounds like I need to learn more about my mixing valve to proceed.

 

[Stuart in MN]

The mixing valve is in the shower handle. You would have to plumb in the pump in between the handle and the shower head to do what you're trying to do.

 

[Scott r c]

2 booster pumps, one for each line, assuming your shower lines are independent of everything else. Lot of work for a shower.

 

[moneyisflying]

The mixing valve is in the shower handle. You would have to plumb in the pump in between the handle and the shower head to do what you're trying to do.

I was figuring this was the location of it. I don't think I can manage fitting the pump after this valve. But if the valve is the restriction, then I could get a less restrictive one and install the pump before.

2 booster pumps, one for each line, assuming your shower lines are independent of everything else. Lot of work for a shower.

Yeah, I considered this also, but agree its a lot of work. Seems better to look at a twin impeller pump that has dual outlets (one for hot and one for cold). The exception to this would be if installing the pump just on the hotside would work. Not sure on this and am open to thoughts on the idea.

 

[ixlr8]

I started down a similar path, found out it was the mixing valve that was the restriction. Decided to live with it until bathroom remodel next year. I will then either buy a higher flow mixing valve... or get out my drill and make it a higher flow unit.

 

[moneyisflying]

I started down a similar path, found out it was the mixing valve that was the restriction. Decided to live with it until bathroom remodel next year. I will then either buy a higher flow mixing valve... or get out my drill and make it a higher flow unit.

Well, the line pressure from my controller is 63 psi. The shower at the head has been confirmed at 51 psi. The pressure controller is in the basement, and the shower is on the second floor (and I have 9' ceilings), so with gravity and the distance, I think even if the valve is restricting my flow, I don't expect to see any "major" gains. Yet, at least.

I'm going to inspect the valve in the next few days and see what I find. If I find the valve is restrictive, is there a way to modify the valve? Or do I need to find a new high flow valve? If I need a new valve, where can I find one? Anyone got a link to a high flow one online?

After the valve is in a situation no to restrict the flow, I think I may have to continue to finding a pump to increase the pressure.

 

[rsanter]

I had low shower pressure.
I took the shower head off and found there was a little restrictor washer thing in there.
I removed it and then put the head back together.....much better than before

Bob

 

[Daves69]

Look at your shower valve for a brand name.
Also do you have a tub spout?
Some people have already stated the flow to the tub spout is unrestricted while the shower may have restriction.
Try attaching your shower head to the tub spout pipe and see if this helps.

 

[kaffine]

I do not think having just 1 pump on the hot will do what you want unless you take full hot showers. Having just the 1 pump on the hot side will increase the pressure for the hot water but then at the mixing valve will have to restrict the hot water more reducing the pressure so it will mix with the cold water. Basically you would end up with the same shower but you would have to have the handle set to a lower temp than before to achieve the temp but the pressure and flow wouldn't change.

If you want 1 pump then you will need to put it after the mixer valve as was mentioned a few times in the other thread.

Now the problem with this is how to control the pump. You would not want the pump running without the shower being on. Now I suppose you could but a switch in and then hope you always remember to turn it off when done but I don't trust that kind of setup. The option I can come up with is to have a pressure cut in switch that requires at least a certain pressure to turn the pump on lets say 10 psi or so. Then when the shower is turned on your water pressure will turn the pump on and it will run until you turn the shower off and the pressure drops below that set point. As long as water can flow through the pump with it off the switch can be put on the output side of the pump to make sure it doesn't turn off if the pump pulls the input pressure down to far while running. As long as there are no valves after the pump I would check the running pressure and if it doesn't go too high not worry about an overpressure switch however that is me if I was setting this up for someone else I would have a high pressure cutout as well just to be safe.

Now for placement of the pump it would be best to have it near the shower but remember you can plumb the pump some distance away if needed. I would try to keep the lines as short as possible though but if you need you could put it in the ceiling above or in the floor below by changing the plumbing.


Now if there is no location near the shower to install the pump the other option assuming the supply pipes for the shower are home run back to the distribution panel you could install pumps near the distribution panel. Not sure how well 2 pumps would work. I think if you need to do this it will end up being a lot more complicated. I can see needing 2 expansion tanks and 2 pressure regulating valves. The expansion tanks are so the pumps can cycle on and off and the regulating valves are to maintain a consistent pressure and have both hot and cold close to the same pressure. Now a pressure compensating shower valve might help as it will adjust for differences in pressure between hot and cold so you may be able to do away with the PRVs however I think you will still need the expansion tanks to allow the pumps to cycle on and off. I'm not sure how a thermostatic shower valve would react as they are trying to maintain a set temp not just balance the pressure between the hot and cold.

 

[Daves69]

Some good reading here:

http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/blog/featured-products/a-guide-to-delta-valves-and-cartridges/

www.highpressureshowerheads.com

http://answers.deltafaucet.com/answ...h-shower-only-questions-answers/questions.htm

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Read the reviews for that pump under the link you provided.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

The more I read the post you're posting, it sounds like what you really need to do, is find an "old school plumber" and tell him to fix it and be done with it. The guys in the other thread gave you the right track to pursue on how to locate the source of your pressure/flow drop and it sounds like all you've done is pursue this idea of adding more BS to your system to try to work around what the real issue is. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and hire someone that actually knows what the hell they're doing. Yeah, some of us started getting cute with our answers because it started getting funny to us. I was telling my next door neighbor about the other thread when she rode over and she said you should hire "Tim the tool man" and let him install a pressure washer. I fell out when she said that. The guy in the other thread that provided the link to the video on how to locate the pressure/flow drop was dead on the money. It sounds like all you've done is look at it and try to figure out a way to "make it work" instead of fixing your problem. Personally, I think you're wasting most of the guys time on here. I'll get off my soap box and unsubscribe now and hope these threads fall off.

 

[moneyisflying]

I had low shower pressure.
I took the shower head off and found there was a little restrictor washer thing in there.
I removed it and then put the head back together.....much better than before

Bob

I did not mention, but I have removed the restrictor plate in the shower head already. Although much better, not the pressure I am happy with.

Look at your shower valve for a brand name.
Also do you have a tub spout?
Some people have already stated the flow to the tub spout is unrestricted while the shower may have restriction.
Try attaching your shower head to the tub spout pipe and see if this helps.

I said this was a shower only. No tub spout.

I do not think having just 1 pump on the hot will do what you want unless you take full hot showers. Having just the 1 pump on the hot side will increase the pressure for the hot water but then at the mixing valve will have to restrict the hot water more reducing the pressure so it will mix with the cold water. Basically you would end up with the same shower but you would have to have the handle set to a lower temp than before to achieve the temp but the pressure and flow wouldn't change.

If you want 1 pump then you will need to put it after the mixer valve as was mentioned a few times in the other thread.

Now the problem with this is how to control the pump. You would not want the pump running without the shower being on. Now I suppose you could but a switch in and then hope you always remember to turn it off when done but I don't trust that kind of setup. The option I can come up with is to have a pressure cut in switch that requires at least a certain pressure to turn the pump on lets say 10 psi or so. Then when the shower is turned on your water pressure will turn the pump on and it will run until you turn the shower off and the pressure drops below that set point. As long as water can flow through the pump with it off the switch can be put on the output side of the pump to make sure it doesn't turn off if the pump pulls the input pressure down to far while running. As long as there are no valves after the pump I would check the running pressure and if it doesn't go too high not worry about an overpressure switch however that is me if I was setting this up for someone else I would have a high pressure cutout as well just to be safe.

Now for placement of the pump it would be best to have it near the shower but remember you can plumb the pump some distance away if needed. I would try to keep the lines as short as possible though but if you need you could put it in the ceiling above or in the floor below by changing the plumbing.


Now if there is no location near the shower to install the pump the other option assuming the supply pipes for the shower are home run back to the distribution panel you could install pumps near the distribution panel. Not sure how well 2 pumps would work. I think if you need to do this it will end up being a lot more complicated. I can see needing 2 expansion tanks and 2 pressure regulating valves. The expansion tanks are so the pumps can cycle on and off and the regulating valves are to maintain a consistent pressure and have both hot and cold close to the same pressure. Now a pressure compensating shower valve might help as it will adjust for differences in pressure between hot and cold so you may be able to do away with the PRVs however I think you will still need the expansion tanks to allow the pumps to cycle on and off. I'm not sure how a thermostatic shower valve would react as they are trying to maintain a set temp not just balance the pressure between the hot and cold.

The pump has an automatic shutoff as it is "on demand". But I believe the twin impeller pump would be better as it has the cold and hot side available.

Some good reading here:

http://www.nationalbuildersupply.com/blog/featured-products/a-guide-to-delta-valves-and-cartridges/

www.highpressureshowerheads.com

http://answers.deltafaucet.com/answ...h-shower-only-questions-answers/questions.htm

I actually started off with that delta. I have the delta 1400 valve I believe. It would be nice to see if the 1700 actually offers more water or if it simply makes sure the pressure doesn't drop when a toilet is flushed but offers the same restriction? Also, I wonder if deltas rough in valve would be best? Again no numbers so it's hard to know. My shower head was the high flow one from delta. After the pressure was not good enough I went with the higher pressure model from the highpressureshowerheads website. (We think alike).

Read the reviews for that pump under the link you provided.

I did. It's not the pump I will likely go with, just an example and was more looking for "how to install help".

The more I read the post you're posting, it sounds like what you really need to do, is find an "old school plumber" and tell him to fix it and be done with it. The guys in the other thread gave you the right track to pursue on how to locate the source of your pressure/flow drop and it sounds like all you've done is pursue this idea of adding more BS to your system to try to work around what the real issue is. Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and hire someone that actually knows what the hell they're doing. Yeah, some of us started getting cute with our answers because it started getting funny to us. I was telling my next door neighbor about the other thread when she rode over and she said you should hire "Tim the tool man" and let him install a pressure washer. I fell out when she said that. The guy in the other thread that provided the link to the video on how to locate the pressure/flow drop was dead on the money. It sounds like all you've done is look at it and try to figure out a way to "make it work" instead of fixing your problem. Personally, I think you're wasting most of the guys time on here. I'll get off my soap box and unsubscribe now and hope these threads fall off.

To your first part of your reply, I have spoke with a plumber and my guy who installed my well (don't know his official tital). They believe the pump will work and the PEX line I have will support sufficient volume to make me happy. I don't know of either one knew or thought about the mixing valve.

To your second part; if you have unsubscribed, you are not reading this. If you are, please stay off your soap box and stop wasting "my time". I am trying to get help here and statements like this are not helping move this forward.

 

[kaffine]

The pump has an automatic shutoff as it is "on demand". But I believe the twin impeller pump would be better as it has the cold and hot side available.

If the pump is located between the shower valve and the shower head do not count on any built in controls working correctly. For the built in controls to work correctly it would have to be located before the shower valve.


I looked at the manual of the twin impeller pumps. England has some interesting plumbing apparently. It seems it is common for the hot water system to be gravity feed while the cold water is mains pressure. However all of the twin impeller pumps I saw said they are for gravity feed cold and hot water systems not main pressure systems. The output was also 4bar which is ~60psi.

 

[Kabman]

In the UK, older properties usually have a low pressure, gravity fed system. There is a cold water storage tank in the roof space that is fed by main water pressure. This then feeds a seperate hot water storage tank via the water heater and any other plumbing in the house. Supplies to kitchen or outdoor taps/faucets are usually at mains pressure however.

In newer properties, main pressure systems are the norm. These use a pressurised combi boiler (combined heating and hot water) that heats water on demand. They are more space and energy efficient but not as reliable as the old, low pressure stuff. Mains pressure is in the 75 to 100 psi range, so plenty for a shower.
But the older gravity fed systems often use twin impellor shower pumps like thesehttp://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/products/monsoon/. They use flow activated reed switches to turn on and off automatically.

Mine only runs at a maximum of 30psi but can pump a LOT of water at that pressure. Enough that it has to have dedicated 3/4 hot and cold pipes. It's the volume and speed of the water out of the shower head, rather than the pressure, that makes for a powerful shower.

 

[HAP]

Install it after your incoming water shut-off valve...

 

[moneyisflying]

If the pump is located between the shower valve and the shower head do not count on any built in controls working correctly. For the built in controls to work correctly it would have to be located before the shower valve.


I looked at the manual of the twin impeller pumps. England has some interesting plumbing apparently. It seems it is common for the hot water system to be gravity feed while the cold water is mains pressure. However all of the twin impeller pumps I saw said they are for gravity feed cold and hot water systems not main pressure systems. The output was also 4bar which is ~60psi.

There is no space or room to even consider running a pump between the mixing valve and the shower head. Only place that would really work is in my basement before the mixing valve.

I need to do more research on the twin impeller pumps. I was looking at this one http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TTT550.html trying to find more information. I like how it has an input for the hot and a desperate one for the cold, but past that I need to find one that doesn't have a minimum psi to turn on, and can feed 70-80+ psi. Then if able try to find one that will accept US voltage and frequency (I may not be able to find such a pump). I currently have 63 psi in the lines, but by the time the water goes up 2 floors and through my current mixing valve it drops 12 psi and am at 51. So, I need something to push the water greater than at least 70-80 psi to get any noticeable difference.

In the UK, older properties usually have a low pressure, gravity fed system. There is a cold water storage tank in the roof space that is fed by main water pressure. This then feeds a seperate hot water storage tank via the water heater and any other plumbing in the house. Supplies to kitchen or outdoor taps/faucets are usually at mains pressure however.

In newer properties, main pressure systems are the norm. These use a pressurised combi boiler (combined heating and hot water) that heats water on demand. They are more space and energy efficient but not as reliable as the old, low pressure stuff. Mains pressure is in the 75 to 100 psi range, so plenty for a shower.
But the older gravity fed systems often use twin impellor shower pumps like thesehttp://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/products/monsoon/. They use flow activated reed switches to turn on and off automatically.

Mine only runs at a maximum of 30psi but can pump a LOT of water at that pressure. Enough that it has to have dedicated 3/4 hot and cold pipes. It's the volume and speed of the water out of the shower head, rather than the pressure, that makes for a powerful shower.

I can't imagine 30 psi feeling like a lot of pressure. I guess if you had mass amounts of volume then it may not be so bad. My problem is I am limited to the 1/2" PEX lines that are plumbed from my basement up through my house 2 stories into my bathroom and shower. It would be a very large undertaking to replace this with larger 3/4" or 1" piping to increase the volume. So, I am left with increasing pressure, which I would be happier with more pressure than volume anyways.

Do those pumps from the UK just plug into the wall? Or do they need to be hard wired?

Install it after your incoming water shut-off valve...

I'll need to install the pump before the mixing valve. No way I could fit it or plumb it after the mixing valve.

 

[moneyisflying]

So, first step is the valve. I have a delta mixing valve. I don't know which one as it came with my delta shower head I originally ordered. I looked at some rough in valves from delta and they seem to be a universal fit which is nice. Prices are very good also.

I'm going to call Delta today to see what valve they think I have and what their best flowing valve would be.

Then I'll have to figure out the pump situation.

 

[steve308]

$55.00 Shipping? Where's it coming from -Mars?

 

[Kabman]

I was looking at this one http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TTT550.html trying to find more information.

That looks a little feeble for what you want. If you're going to the trouble of importing one, get a Stuart-Turner brass pump. They're expensive but built to last.

I can't imagine 30 psi feeling like a lot of pressure. I guess if you had mass amounts of volume then it may not be so bad.

You're right - it's not a lot of pressure. But it's like standing under a waterfall, rather than being sprayed with a garden hose. It sounds like you have plenty of static pressure, just insufficent flow.

Do those pumps from the UK just plug into the wall? Or do they need to be hard wired?.

Just a regular 13A wall plug but that's at 240V so only half the current you'd have with 110V.

 

[moneyisflying]

That looks a little feeble for what you want. If you're going to the trouble of importing one, get a Stuart-Turner brass pump. They're expensive but built to last.




You're right - it's not a lot of pressure. But it's like standing under a waterfall, rather than being sprayed with a garden hose. It sounds like you have plenty of static pressure, just insufficent flow.



Just a regular 13A wall plug but that's at 240V so only half the current you'd have with 110V.

Thanks for the input. Amount of water I have is acceptable, I just wish it were at a higher pressure.

Yeah, I don't know a lot about electrical work, so I am not sure how I would figure a way to make the voltage a frequency work for the UK pumps (If anyone has any ideas, feel free to chime in).

 

[fattogatto]

Check the well pump for a limiting volulme. Even with 65 psi at the outlet, if you do not have the volume you won't havethe pressure. You may simply need to upgrade the well pump to a high volume unit. Check with the pump installer about this option.

 

[404]

Hi,
Here is a method which is not pretty, but cheap-ish and probably effective.
This is just an outline of the idea. Not a complete How to.

Remove the shower head from the pipe up high in the shower. With a hose and fittings, plumb this pipe into a shallow well pump sitting nearby. The output of the the shallow well pump comes back in a second hose and is connected to a shower head mounted in the shower. In use, turn on the water first. Fire up the well pump. Adjust temperature before you get in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-HP-Shallo...276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af65aa12c

 

[moneyisflying]

Hi,
Here is a method which is not pretty, but cheap-ish and probably effective.
This is just an outline of the idea. Not a complete How to.

Remove the shower head from the pipe up high in the shower. With a hose and fittings, plumb this pipe into a shallow well pump sitting nearby. The output of the the shallow well pump comes back in a second hose and is connected to a shower head mounted in the shower. In use, turn on the water first. Fire up the well pump. Adjust temperature before you get in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-HP-Shallo...276?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af65aa12c

Although the pump is not too expensive, I think making it work would be on top of being a big job. Thanks for thinking outside of the box though.

 

[larry_g]

http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/20...eating/2013_CASE_R_Shower_Heads_Sept_2011.pdf

In reading about low flow showers I came across the above document. If you read the last paragraph in section 4 they talk about spa pumps. May be an avenue to pursue. In stead of the pump being in a spa tub it sounds like they are making spa showers. So the spa pump may be adaptable to your situation.

lg
no enat sig line

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I posted what I thought was a reasonable concept in the other thread. Treat the shower as a separate domestic water system. Booster pump fed by the household main, teed off on the discharge. One side of the tee feeds a small water heater piped to the mixing valve. The other side of the tee feeds the other side of the mixing valve. Find some sort of an "old fashioned" unregulated mixing valve & shower head...

Tommy

 

[404]

Although the pump is not too expensive, I think making it work would be on top of being a big job. Thanks for thinking outside of the box though.

You are very welcome.

Regards,
404

 

[moneyisflying]

http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/20...eating/2013_CASE_R_Shower_Heads_Sept_2011.pdf

In reading about low flow showers I came across the above document. If you read the last paragraph in section 4 they talk about spa pumps. May be an avenue to pursue. In stead of the pump being in a spa tub it sounds like they are making spa showers. So the spa pump may be adaptable to your situation.

lg
no enat sig line

That is another thought. It seems the spa pumps don't really measure gpm though, so I am having a hard time seeing if they will offer more or not over a boost pump. Also, they have the single out port so still have the issue of figuring out both the hot and cold side.

Thanks also for thinking outside of the box though. I'll look some more and see if I can find ones with dual output and a gpm rate.

 

[moneyisflying]

I posted what I thought was a reasonable concept in the other thread. Treat the shower as a separate domestic water system. Booster pump fed by the household main, teed off on the discharge. One side of the tee feeds a small water heater piped to the mixing valve. The other side of the tee feeds the other side of the mixing valve. Find some sort of an "old fashioned" unregulated mixing valve & shower head...

Tommy

I think getting a seperate heating element for the hot side would be more expensive than just getting a second boost pump for the hotside.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I think getting a seperate heating element for the hot side would be more expensive than just getting a second boost pump for the hotside.

Could very possibly be. My experience is pumps are always more expensive than you think. Small water heaters, not so much (depending on gas/electric).

Tommy

 

[Kabman]

Yeah, I don't know a lot about electrical work, so I am not sure how I would figure a way to make the voltage a frequency work for the UK pumps (If anyone has any ideas, feel free to chime in).

Use a step-up transformer. The frequency difference won't be a problem but make sure it can handle the current of the pump at startup.

http://www.voltagesuperstore.com/choosingrightconverter.shtml

 

[moneyisflying]

Use a step-up transformer. The frequency difference won't be a problem but make sure it can handle the current of the pump at startup.

http://www.voltagesuperstore.com/choosingrightconverter.shtml

Thanks!

Sounds like the voltage can be taken care of. Now I just need to find a pump that can output 80+ psi. The best brass model from the brand you recommended only is 4.5 bar which is about 65 psi.

 

[Kabman]

You'll struggle to find a shower pump that can deliver 80+psi at any sort of flow. Are you sure you're not getting too hooked up on pressure. There's a difference between the max pressure quoted for a pump and the pressure it can deliver at a given flow rate. Have a look at this spec sheet for an example http://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/media/13224-Monsoon-Universal-Twin-Datasheet.pdf
How much flow you get depends on the equivalent area of the holes in the shower head as well as the pressure drop across it.
If the water's just pouring out of an open pipe there'll be no pressure drop but maximum flow. If it's being forced through a tiny hole there'll be plenty of pressure but very little flow (think of spraying paint). Neither of those are going to give a decent shower.

 

[moneyisflying]

You'll struggle to find a shower pump that can deliver 80+psi at any sort of flow. Are you sure you're not getting too hooked up on pressure. There's a difference between the max pressure quoted for a pump and the pressure it can deliver at a given flow rate. Have a look at this spec sheet for an example http://www.stuart-turner.co.uk/media/13224-Monsoon-Universal-Twin-Datasheet.pdf
How much flow you get depends on the equivalent area of the holes in the shower head as well as the pressure drop across it.
If the water's just pouring out of an open pipe there'll be no pressure drop but maximum flow. If it's being forced through a tiny hole there'll be plenty of pressure but very little flow (think of spraying paint). Neither of those are going to give a decent shower.

I already am struggling to find one that delivers this psi. I may end up getting something that is non standard to work. I am sure I want the pressure. If you have ever had a very high pressure shower, it's amazing, and it wasn't the volume of water that felt great on my back, it was the pressure and that's what I am after.