New Home + Epoxy + Garage

[sendmarksmail]

Hello Guys:

I apologize if this has been covered. I've searched for the last 30 minutes including Google. And I can't seem to find a straight answer. I'm about to e-mail a manufacturer as well.

However, for those of you pros with knowledge, I was wondering if you could help me. Our house is almost complete, so new everything. I was wondering if I should bother acid/mechanically etching the garage floor?

Should I just clean it with soap and water, then complete the kit?

Mark

 

[shaun oriold1]

New doesnt mean ready to accept coatings. Prep is still needed.

 

[CombatNinja]

You won't need to grind but you should still etch.

 

[opedawg]

I did mine with the epoxy based paints from Sherwin-Williams. I chose the industrial type, Tile Clad HS.. two coats. Threw some of the paint chips on top of the 2nd coat when it was wet. Then two coats of the clear Rexthane I. Very happy with the result.

The only prep I needed to do was to clean the floor from all dust/dirt. Also, some will mention an anti-slip sand, but to be honest the floor came out perfect without it. Easy to clean, mop, etc. Very durable. Of course, if you drop something metal and pointed, it will chip.

Let me know if you need more info.

Oh yeah, mine was a new slab poured about a month before I painted it. There were no residues or neglect that needed to be acid etched.

 

[NitroShark]

New or not you must still Prep it.

My floor was not brand new but about 6 years old before I coated it. I did not paint but rather choose to coat it with a 100% epoxy system. I’m very pleased at how it handles abuse and wipes up clean. It is about 40 mills thick. That gives a lot of coating to wear through.

If you want it done right, figure at least $5 a sqft for a Pro or $2 a sqft if you do it.

Shawn

 

[jaye944]

concrete has had to have set for at least 30 days, (I read somewhere)

Hello Guys:

I apologize if this has been covered. I've searched for the last 30 minutes including Google. And I can't seem to find a straight answer. I'm about to e-mail a manufacturer as well.

However, for those of you pros with knowledge, I was wondering if you could help me. Our house is almost complete, so new everything. I was wondering if I should bother acid/mechanically etching the garage floor?

Should I just clean it with soap and water, then complete the kit?

Mark

 

[jaye944]

Thats amazing ! Great shine

New or not you must still Prep it.

My floor was not brand new but about 6 years old before I coated it. I did not paint but rather choose to coat it with a 100% epoxy system. I’m very pleased at how it handles abuse and wipes up clean. It is about 40 mills thick. That gives a lot of coating to wear through.

If you want it done right, figure at least $5 a sqft for a Pro or $2 a sqft if you do it.

Shawn

 

[ahkim]

I just put Rocksolid down at my new construction home and I regret not using a cleaner/degreaser. I did the acid etch but there must've been some contaminates from the builder so my Rocksolid reacted and it looked terrible. I made the assumption that new=clean. Unless you're 100% sure it's clean, I would prep thoroughly.

 

[LKNGarage]

I think you have some good answers to your original question. Another tip that I have learned is that an epoxy system has a better (smoother) look if you apply a primer coat under the epoxy coat. The advantage of the primer is that it will fill pores in the concrete. Best of luck with the project !

 

[RogueFab]

Yep, 30 days, and still grind or acid etch, or both. I would just wait 30 days and acid etch. Epoxy and poly on top (if you have enough ventilation).

Post pics

 

[OGJordan]

I did mine with the epoxy based paints from Sherwin-Williams. I chose the industrial type, Tile Clad HS.. two coats. Threw some of the paint chips on top of the 2nd coat when it was wet. Then two coats of the clear Rexthane I. Very happy with the result.

The only prep I needed to do was to clean the floor from all dust/dirt. Also, some will mention an anti-slip sand, but to be honest the floor came out perfect without it. Easy to clean, mop, etc. Very durable. Of course, if you drop something metal and pointed, it will chip.

Let me know if you need more info.

Oh yeah, mine was a new slab poured about a month before I painted it. There were no residues or neglect that needed to be acid etched.

The acid isn't to deal with issues, it's no roughen the surface. It's like sanding something that is perfectly smooth before you paint it. If you don't it can't "grab" well. Your floor will probably start to fail withing a year or 2. And NONE of it will be thoroughly bonded so you'll need to remove nearly 100% of it to replace it.

 

[retfr8flyr]

Make sure the floor has set up for at least 30 days. First, grinding is better than etching no matter whether the floor is new or not. The purpose is to ready the concrete for the epoxy. Put down a good quality primer, then the main coat of 100% solids epoxy with how ever many flakes you want, then the top coat of clear Poly Urethane.

If you follow these procedures you will have a beautiful floor that will last a very long time. Cut any corners and you can end up with a mess, or a floor that will not last. Get with one of the quality vendors on the forum, Scotty at Legacy Industrial, or Justin at Garage Floorings LLC and they will get you squared away with what you will need. Stay away from the junk at the BB stores if you want something that will last.

 

[jaye944]

if you grind, you DONT need to etch ;P

 

[j6810]

Nitro,
That looks great what Epoxy system did you use
Thanks

 

[NitroShark]

In my case I choose Tnemec. On the system I used it has "traction" with chips but the clear coat shines. 40mils total. Be sure to grind to floor. Take your time, do it right.


100% solids system.

The coating I used as follows: (Decorative Flake Floor)

Surface Preparation: ICRI-CSP3. This is the scarification of the concrete to remove all poorly adhered laitance on the surface of the concrete and to provide a surface profile (I used a 7inch hand diamond grinder).

The floor was clean and dry prior to coating. I Filled all control joints with Series 215 Surfacing Epoxy.

1st Coat: Series 201 Epoxoprime applied at – 12.0 dry mils
2nd Coat: Series 237 Power-Tread in 33GR Gray applied at 12.0 dry mils. While the coating is wet, broadcast random decorative flakes into the wet coating.
3rd Coat: Series 284 Deco-Clear applied at 12.0 dry mils
4th Coat: Series 248 Everthane clear applied at 3.0 Dry mils

The application guide can be found here > http://www.tnemec.com/product/stratashield/ You can get data sheets for coverage also.


http://www.tnemec.com


Shawn

 

[Danno1]

.


Nitro,

Your floor is a work of art. But years a go I used to work in a bldg. w textured floors. Whenever I dropped something small I could never find it. So I went w plain gray epoxy in my garage.

Does anyone have this prob w the flake colored floors???



.

 

[NitroShark]

I was rebuilding some hydraulic lifters last week and dropped a really tiny ball bearing (less than 1/16 in diameter) I just used a flashlight shining sideways across the floor and found it easy.

Flake hides a lot and is easy to fix flaws.


Shawn