General questions about a 20+ year old Sears compressor

[mrstangblb]

My Aunt just gave me my Grandaddy's older Sears compressor, a model 919.176210 1 HP with 12 gallon tank. It's been sitting probably 10 years or so in a house that isn't heated or cooled, but it's been out of the elements so it's in good shape for a 20+ year old or so compressor.

I haven't tried to turn it on it yet but plan on draining the oil in it and refilling it before I do so.

Any advice before I go to turn on this one? I'll check the belt to make sure it's okay, and I'll open the drain at the bottom to make sure there's no condensation.

Thanks for any help you can give me!

Barry

John 3:16 / Jeremiah 29:11-13

 

[theoldwizard1]

Forget changing the oil. As long as it is full, run it,

Hopefully Grandada drained the tank. The only thing that will kill those old compressors is rust through from not draining the tank.

I have a similar one. 2hp 20 gallon. Great compressor.

 

[Zrexxer]

Is it like this one? This was my first compressor, back in 1984. If so, it's made by DeVilbiss. I've had the thing running so hard it was pinging, and it never gave up. Certainly wouldn't hurt to change the oil, and drain the tank. Biggest pproblem I had with mine was it would walk all over the place while it was running. Had to make a little platform for it to sit on so it wouldn't run off.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

What color is it? Green or red?

 

[mrstangblb]

Forget changing the oil. As long as it is full, run it,

Hopefully Grandada drained the tank. The only thing that will kill those old compressors is rust through from not draining the tank.

I have a similar one. 2hp 20 gallon. Great compressor.

I'm a little wary about the tank but it isn't rusty on the outside. I bet it's okay.

 

[mrstangblb]

Is it like this one? This was my first compressor, back in 1984. If so, it's made by DeVilbiss. I've had the thing running so hard it was pinging, and it never gave up. Certainly wouldn't hurt to change the oil, and drain the tank. Biggest pproblem I had with mine was it would walk all over the place while it was running. Had to make a little platform for it to sit on so it wouldn't run off.

Nice compressor! Mine is beige but fairly similar to what you have. Funny that you had to build that platform! Grandaddy must have pulled this one often because the tires are worn.

 

[mrstangblb]

What color is it? Green or red?

It's really more beige than anything.

 

[The Cobbler]

also check the filters as they can become clogged .
I bought one ( or very similar) at HAbitat for Humanity a few years ago , just because it was cheap, in good shape & looked cool

 

[Cope]

It's really more beige than anything.

Sears also used brown and gold back then.

 

[wild cowboy]

It will be a lot easier on the pump and motor, year round, but especially in the cold, if you will use a top quality synthetic motor oil in the compressor - modern synthetics do not foam, and are far better lubricants and have a much lower pour point that the oil that came with it!

Something like Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra in a 5W-30 or a 5W-20 would be great! - as would a 0W-20 or a 0W-30

I did this with all my compressors, and they run quieter, start up much easier in cold weather and use less electricity!

To learn more about lubricating oils, and to learn why thinner oils are superior to thicker oils, regardless of your climate, go read Motor Oil 101 at Motor Oil University from the oil gurus at BobIsTheOILGuy.com!

a snippet:

The greatest confusion is because of the way motor oils are labeled. It is an old system and is confusing to many people. I know the person is confused when they say that a 0W-30 oil is too thin for their engine because the old manual says to use 10W-30. This is wrong.

 

[Zrexxer]

Nice compressor! Mine is beige but fairly similar to what you have. Funny that you had to build that platform! Grandaddy must have pulled this one often because the tires are worn.

I sold that one about 12 years ago, and frankly I haven't even looked at that picture of it in many years. These days I have much larger and nicer compressors, but thinking about that first Sears one now, I kinda wish I had it back.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What color is it? Green or red?

Tan/beige. It has a center "console". This the 2 hp version w/20 gallon tank. Also came in a 3 hp version with 30/gallon tank.

View media item 36524
Sear/Craftsman compressors from that era (late 70s/early 80s) were either made by DeVilbiss or Campbell Hausfeld.

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

Tan/beige. It has a center "console". This the 2 hp version w/20 gallon tank. Also came in a 3 hp version with 30/gallon tank.

View media item 36524
Sear/Craftsman compressors from that era (late 70s/early 80s) were either made by DeVilbiss or Campbell Hausfeld.

I would just change the oil like you planned, drain the tank of any water, and check the filter to see if it's clean. I worked in a shop and we used the same compressor temporarily while we were moving locations and it worked great for what it was. It ran a 1/2 impact and 3/8 air ratchets. I'm assuming that is a 110v?

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

Is it like this one? This was my first compressor, back in 1984. If so, it's made by DeVilbiss. I've had the thing running so hard it was pinging, and it never gave up. Certainly wouldn't hurt to change the oil, and drain the tank. Biggest pproblem I had with mine was it would walk all over the place while it was running. Had to make a little platform for it to sit on so it wouldn't run off.

Is your compressor a 220v? I inherited one that looks very similar except the pump is green. I haven't hooked it up in my shop yet but my dad told me he used to paint cars as side work with it. My grandfather willed it to me.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm assuming that is a 110v?

The 1 hp version ran on 120V but it need a "full" 15A circuit !

The 2 and 3 HP version required 240V.

Is your compressor a 220v? I inherited one that looks very similar except the pump is green. I haven't hooked it up in my shop yet but my dad told me he used to paint cars as side work with it. My grandfather willed it to me.

The green ones (all green, tank and pump) were pretty much identical, but they did not have the center console with built on regulator. Same hp/voltage as above.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It will be a lot easier on the pump and motor, year round, but especially in the cold, if you will use a top quality synthetic motor oil in the compressor - modern synthetics do not foam, and are far better lubricants ...

Basically true ! Old pressure washer pumps used to spec "turbine oil". When I tried to buy some it was substituted with 10W-30 synthetic motor oil.

 

[finn]

My circa 1981 green "Sears Best" (Devillbis) 220v compressor has a version of the plastic center console.

It's been a great compressor.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My circa 1981 green "Sears Best" (Devillbis) 220v compressor has a version of the plastic center console.

Interesting !

I used to sell those up until 1976 (which is why I know so much about them). All the green ones had an outlet on the end of the tank and most of the time you had to buy your own regulator,

 

[mrstangblb]

Tan/beige. It has a center "console". This the 2 hp version w/20 gallon tank. Also came in a 3 hp version with 30/gallon tank.

View media item 36524
Sear/Craftsman compressors from that era (late 70s/early 80s) were either made by DeVilbiss or Campbell Hausfeld.

That's almost exactly what mine looks like but it's a 1HP. That's a great looking one you have!

 

[mrstangblb]

I would just change the oil like you planned, drain the tank of any water, and check the filter to see if it's clean. I worked in a shop and we used the same compressor temporarily while we were moving locations and it worked great for what it was. It ran a 1/2 impact and 3/8 air ratchets. I'm assuming that is a 110v?

Mine is 110v in the 1HP version.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Mine is 110v in the 1HP version.

It will run on a 15A circuit if the wire is not too long (voltage drop) and there are no other loads on that circuit at the time you are using it.

 

[Jere]

Change the oil to synthetic the label on mine both say 10w30, change the air filter. I oil the filter from time to time and it keeps noise down. I swapped the power cord and plug because they were fraying a little. Check all the fittings for leaks and a inline filter and maybe swap the drain plug. Otherwise if the tank doesn't leak you have a compressor that will outlast the cockroaches.

 

[cuengineer]

I have a 2-hp, 220 v, green one with a 21 gallon tank that I bought new over 30 years ago. It still works, but it has a small leak around the fitting where the air comes out of the tank that I have been trying to fix. It seems to be an unusual brass fitting that I have never see before. Slightly off topic, but anyone have any idea of what kind of fitting this is? The connection is for 1/2" O.D. copper pipe and has a sleeve that has a flat ring around the middle of it that connects to the tank fitting.

 

[CNGsaves]

Really to SEE the ole girl.

POST a picture to your original 1st post by using the Edit feature, then Go Advanced. Click on Manage Attachments and attach PIC that you've pushed to your computer harddrive.

Easy way to get pic to computer is use cellphone and just email to yourself, instead of sending pic to another phone number.

MOST IMPORTANT to check is condition of old tank that has sit there that long during freeze and thaw cycles. Any rust where the round portion of tank is welded?? What does bottom of tank look like?? Any brown or rusty spots??

My only concern with beige tank, is similar old horizontal tank exploded when pressure relief valve failed and compressor kept pumping and pumping.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86685
Look at PICS in post # 5 which sure looks like older beige Craftsman.

SAFETY First !!

 

[wild cowboy]

It will run on a 15A circuit if the wire is not too long (voltage drop) and there are no other loads on that circuit at the time you are using it.

or if you use really big gauge extension cord, such as 10/3 or even 8/3 then you can run a longer cord length - heck you could hook it up 100 feet from power and it would run great if you could afford to use welding cable!

Change the oil to synthetic the label on mine both say 10w30,

any application, car, truck, or air compressor, that calls for 10W-30 is actually better served with synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-30 than the original 10W-30 specified - to learn why, read here at BobIsTheOilGuy.com

 

[mrstangblb]

Goodness sakes... After reading the post of the exploded compressor I will be really wary of this one... But I will try to get pictures of mine here. I plan to go deer hunting with my Dad this afternoon (I picked the meat from last week's shot yesterday - hope my Dad gets one today!), but I will try to show what it looks like.

Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13 / John 3:16

 

[Jere]

any application, car, truck, or air compressor, that calls for 10W-30 is actually better served with synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-30 than the original 10W-30 specified - to learn why, read here at BobIsTheOilGuy.com

Thanks for that link, never heard that before

Goodness sakes... After reading the post of the exploded compressor I will be really wary of this one... But I will try to get pictures of mine here. I plan to go deer hunting with my Dad this afternoon (I picked the meat from last week's shot yesterday - hope my Dad gets one today!), but I will try to show what it looks like.

Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13 / John 3:16

Compressor's tanks don't really explode unless they have been compressed with some kind of explosive vapors like at a paint shop from the thinners, its more of an urban legend if you look into it. There some photos of semi truck tires being over inflated floating around also.

I have a few used tanks rust through, guess what happens they just hiss a little at the leak.

 

[CNGsaves]

Thanks for that link, never heard that before.

Compressor's tanks don't really explode unless they have been compressed with some kind of explosive vapors like at a paint shop from the thinners, its more of an urban legend if you look into it. There some photos of semi truck tires being over inflated floating around also.

I have a few used tanks rust through, guess what happens they just hiss a little at the leak.

Oh young grasshopper who doesn't believe . . . even when he HAS SEEN !!

Look again at safety post I listed. That is old horizontal tank compressor that likely had 2 critical flaws . . . . rusty/weak tank along weld line . . AND . . stuck PRV (pressure release valve) and the overpressurized tank just blew up. Compressor was left running in garage and it BLEW UP and TORE DOOR OFF THE FRIG (look at pics below)!! If a person had been next to that old compressor, they'd have serious injuries or even death.

You're out in crazy / la la land if you think that pressurized vessels (air compressor tanks) only explode because they've got paint thinner fumes in the same room !! . . .

Old compressor tanks need proper inspection/concern for safety before they are used. Big thick-walled commercial compressor tanks are safer, but homeowner types that have been neglected can be unsafe. Always good idea to check out old tank before using it.

 

[Jere]

Oh young grasshopper who doesn't believe . . . even when he HAS SEEN !!

Look again at safety post I listed. That is old horizontal tank compressor that likely had 2 critical flaws . . . . rusty/weak tank along weld line . . AND . . stuck PRV (pressure release valve) and the overpressurized tank just blew up. Compressor was left running in garage and it BLEW UP and TORE DOOR OFF THE FRIG (look at pics below)!! If a person had been next to that old compressor, they'd have serious injuries or even death.

You're out in crazy / la la land if you think that pressurized vessels (air compressor tanks) only explode because they've got paint thinner fumes in the same room !! . . .

Old compressor tanks need proper inspection/concern for safety before they are used. Big thick-walled commercial compressor tanks are safer, but homeowner types that have been neglected can be unsafe. Always good idea to check out old tank before using it.

I am sceptical about that to say the least. Sounds like you are indicating the rusty tank wasn't really the issue, the bad safety valve and the shut off valve were the real culprits if they can even be verified after the fact. How do we know there wasn't a fuel pump changed or some other combustible wasn't lingering?

When a small tanks weld seam goes there will be a some spring action as the steel returns to a less springy state. So even if the seam went there wouldnt be a ton of movement but it could knock some stuff over. All of the tanks I have seen in person have the seam off to the side not along the bottom center were as to completely rust through.

And even if my points aren't that great or wrong this is by no means a common occurrence. If this happened to one out of ten million air compressors should we just say don't buy old air compressor s they blow up danger will Robinson! Or should we use our heads and say check that the compressor shuts off when it should?or that the damn pop off valve isn't welded closed

 

[CNGsaves]

I am sceptical about that to say the least. Sounds like you are indicating the rusty tank wasn't really the issue, the bad safety valve and the shut off valve were the real culprits if they can even be verified after the fact. How do we know there wasn't a fuel pump changed or some other combustible wasn't lingering?

When a small tanks weld seam goes there will be a some spring action as the steel returns to a less springy state. So even if the seam went there wouldnt be a ton of movement but it could knock some stuff over. All of the tanks I have seen in person have the seam off to the side not along the bottom center were as to completely rust through.

And even if my points aren't that great or wrong this is by no means a common occurrence. If this happened to one out of ten million air compressors should we just say don't buy old air compressors they blow up danger will Robinson! Or should we use our heads and say check that the compressor shuts off when it should? or that the damn pop off valve isn't welded closed

Sorry but you simply don't have a clue !!

EVERY TIME I fill up my CNG tank in my vehicle to 4,000 psi that cools to 3,600 psi with NATURAL GAS then I should be blowing up . . . ?? with your la la logic I should be !! Instead, my tanks are designed to withstand over 5,000 psi so the 4K is no problem . . . AND . . . they are well maintained/protected so no corrosion or damage. Cng tanks also have PRD (pressure relief device) that releases overpressure build-up in worst case scenario.

The failed compressor tank shown above is worst case scenario where an old neglected rusty tank was left running until she blew. I don't know if PRV stuck, because it might NOT . . . the pressure of 150psi alone in that old rusty tank could have blown it up.

Jere, if you think a hissing rusty compressor tank is no problem, then go ahead and keep using it, right next to where you're sitting. You might get convincer lesson !

OP, sorry for sidetrack on your thread. Post up PICS of your tank and inspect it really well before using it. If necessary, take out bung plug and look inside tank with boroscope to check for rusty damage spots.

 

[Jere]

Sorry but you simply don't have a clue !!

EVERY TIME I fill up my CNG tank in my vehicle to 4,000 psi that cools to 3,600 psi with NATURAL GAS then I should be blowing up . . . ?? with your la la logic I should be !! Instead, my tanks are designed to withstand over 5,000 psi so the 4K is no problem . . . AND . . . they are well maintained/protected so no corrosion or damage. Cng tanks also have PRD (pressure relief device) that releases overpressure build-up in worst case scenario.

The failed compressor tank shown above is worst case scenario where an old neglected rusty tank was left running until she blew. I don't know if PRV stuck, because it might NOT . . . the pressure of 150psi alone in that old rusty tank could have blown it up.

Jere, if you think a hissing rusty compressor tank is no problem, then go ahead and keep using it, right next to where you're sitting. You might get convincer lesson !


OP, sorry for sidetrack on your thread. Post up PICS of your tank and inspect it really well before using it. If necessary, take out bung plug and look inside tank with boroscope to check for rusty damage spots.

Please look up how the combustion cycle of a I.C.E. works and try making a reply without talking down. Then we can have a conversation about how little we both know

 

[mrstangblb]

Finally got pictures tonight... And you can see when I drained the tank how much water was in it by the trail in my driveway! Sorry the picture isn't clearer.

Barry

Jeremiah 29:11-13 / John 3:16

 

[404]

I got on like that off the street, and all that was wrong with it was the belt adjustment screw.. some people...

Pull on the overpressure safety to make sure it moves first.

Then, If you have not pumped it up full yet, maybe take it outside the garage and let it develop full pressure while you are on the other side of the house.. leave it holding full pressure for a good long while when you are not near it.

After all what's the hurry.

Good luck,
404

 

[404]

If you want it to be 240V look at the label on the motor, it may be dual voltage configurable.

 

[CNGsaves]

OP, that looks like pretty clean and well-maintained compressor but all that water in there for ** years is little worrysome.

Provide PIC of all sides of compressor. Does tank have bung plug(s)??

How about pic of bottom of tank . . . any rusty spots??

If you want some level of certaintly of condition of tank, take out the bung plug and look inside tank with boroscope.

Check out prior GJ threads on compressor tank safety as there are techniques listed to clean out tank.

 

[Jere]

Well you he knows the tank is rusty inside already from then drained water, what more is a boroscope going to tell him...

If you want to get an idea if the base of the tank is rotted enough to leak there will be rust coming through the paint at the lowest point of the tank. You can tap at the sides and bottom with a ballpien hammer and listen for tonal differences or watch for easily deformed sheet metal.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ Deep pitting on INSIDE of tank would be clear sign that rust is winning the war of destruction on the old tank. Also there are more sophisticated tests that measure thickness of material (ie REAL test instead of ballpeen hammer). Finally, true water pressure test would be ultimate test, but likely overkill for this 20 gal Craftsman.

OP, read the prior GJ threads that talk about tank safety and you'll get jist of what all can be done - - - ie inside tank cleaning, inside tank painting, pressure test, etc.

The old girl may be fine, but doesn't hurt to check it out first.

 

[bubinga]

I take it the synthetic oil is a detergent oil?

It will be a lot easier on the pump and motor, year round, but especially in the cold, if you will use a top quality synthetic motor oil in the compressor - modern synthetics do not foam, and are far better lubricants and have a much lower pour point that the oil that came with it!

Something like Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra in a 5W-30 or a 5W-20 would be great! - as would a 0W-20 or a 0W-30

I did this with all my compressors, and they run quieter, start up much easier in cold weather and use less electricity!

To learn more about lubricating oils, and to learn why thinner oils are superior to thicker oils, regardless of your climate, go read Motor Oil 101 at Motor Oil University from the oil gurus at BobIsTheOILGuy.com!

a snippet:

The greatest confusion is because of the way motor oils are labeled. It is an old system and is confusing to many people. I know the person is confused when they say that a 0W-30 oil is too thin for their engine because the old manual says to use 10W-30. This is wrong.

 

[jott]

Slightly off topic, I'm missing my regulator knob. I can't find it available on-line. Where did you get yours(it doesn't look original to me)? I'm tired of using vise grips.

 

[mrstangblb]

Slightly off topic, I'm missing my regulator knob. I can't find it available on-line. Where did you get yours(it doesn't look original to me)? I'm tired of using vise grips.

Good question. My Grandaddy had this compressor for years, and I have no idea where he may have gotten the knob on it. I still haven't tested this thing because I'm scared it might rupture.