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Running power to shed question

thepinktaco

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Apr 3, 2012
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Just running this by to make sure I am thinking correctly.

Running power to my shed for lighting and a few outlets. My thinking so far is to run 10/2 uf from a 20 amp breaker through the basement (60ft), out of the house then underground about 15 ft to the shed. Once in the shed the 10/2 will go directly to a 20amp light switch acting as the disconnect. From there I was thinking on 12/2 m/c cable to the 3 t-8 fixtures and 2 or 3 outlets.

Am I correct on switching to 12g in the shed since the circuit is a 20 amp circuit and the 10g run is only to minimize voltage loss?
 
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pentavolvo

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12 ga all the way there will be fine in my opinion. I run over 100 feet to my shed doing a very similar setup and zero issues with voltage
 

jdm5

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I'd run 12/3 - separate feeds for your lights and outlets.
 

theoldwizard1

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Once in the shed the 10/2 will go directly to a 20amp light switch acting as the disconnect.
Technically that is not a "disconnect". It s just a switch.

Personally, I would put 2 pigtail on the hot inside the junction box and feed 2 switches, one for light and one for outlets or leave the outlets hot at all times.

From there I was thinking on 12/2 m/c cable to the 3 t-8 fixtures and 2 or 3 outlets.
MC seems like overkill to me
 

theoldwizard1

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I'd run 12/3 - separate feeds for your lights and outlets.

Common neutral. Good idea. You save a few bucks on the wire. At that distance you would have to use 15A breakers. I am pretty certain you have to use a double pole breaker for this.
 
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thepinktaco

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No need for dual circuits. Theres an outlet right next to the shed from the washer for my welder and other power hungry stuff. Shed just needs some lights and outlets for chargers and a drop light.

I was going to use m/c wiring in the shed for protection. I need to see what the inspector says about running exposed wiring in there and how they want it first I guess.
 
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Charles (in GA)

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Technically that is not a "disconnect". It s just a switch.

Personally, I would put 2 pigtail on the hot inside the junction box and feed 2 switches, one for light and one for outlets or leave the outlets hot at all times.


MC seems like overkill to me

230.70(C) simply says the disconnecting means shall be suitable for the prevailing conditions, and 230.79(A) says that for a single circuit, the disconnecting means shall not be rated less than 15 amps.

I think for single circuits, snap switches are considered acceptable as a service disconnect.

Charles
 

theoldwizard1

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230.70(C) simply says the disconnecting means shall be suitable for the prevailing conditions, and 230.79(A) says that for a single circuit, the disconnecting means shall not be rated less than 15 amps.

I think for single circuits, snap switches are considered acceptable as a service disconnect.

I'm not trying to start a ******* contest, but I thought the term "disconnect" always meant break both the hot and neutral.

A snap switch is fine for this application.
 

pentavolvo

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I'm not trying to start a ******* contest, but I thought the term "disconnect" always meant break both the hot and neutral.

A snap switch is fine for this application.

99% of disconnects just break the hot, like the disconnect on an airconditiomer or a normal breaker in a panel
 
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thepinktaco

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Would running 10 gauge though the house, underground to a box on the backside of the lb where it enters the shed then change to 12 gauge to the rest of the shed be acceptable? That would be 100ft or so of 10 gauge feeding the shed for voltage loss. Just don't know if it's acceptable to splice 10 to 12 in a junction box
 

pattenp

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Would running 10 gauge though the house, underground to a box on the backside of the lb where it enters the shed then change to 12 gauge to the rest of the shed be acceptable? That would be 100ft or so of 10 gauge feeding the shed for voltage loss. Just don't know if it's acceptable to splice 10 to 12 in a junction box

You can splice #12 to #10 but the breaker feeding the #10 can be no larger than 20A.
 

pentavolvo

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At 100 feet I would still just run #12. What are you planning on powering that you are I concerned with voltage drop
 

pattenp

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pentavolvo asked good question. If you have a total load greater than 8 to 10 amps you'll start to be over the recommended VD of no more 3%. So you need to consider what you plan on running on those outlets plus the lights. #12 may do fine, but it may be better to run the #10 for the extra capacity.
 
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thepinktaco

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Its 100ft just to the shed, plus the wiring inside. Figured the last outlet would be about 130+ ft from the breaker. I figured over a run like that code wouldnt allow for the voltage loss
 
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