What is better than T1-11

[theoldwizard1]

I like the look of T1-11, but I have seen too much of it delaminate in too short of a period of time. Some/much from lack/improper flashing. A lot from snow piled up against the bottom.

Any similar looking siding products that are more durable.

 

[Zeke]

I don't understand. You are blaming the T1-11 because the flashing is not correct? You could treat the edges with a resin, epoxy or polyester. Find something flexible in those categories.

Around here wood siding tends to be cedar board and batt or T1-11 with batts for the look of B&B. The advantage of cedar is that there doesn't have to be a break at 8 feet. I've heard about 10' and 12' sheets but never seen any.

AFA the bottom of any siding once again the edge has to be treated/painted better than the face. 6" above grade and all that jazz.

Reading your past posts I would think you pretty much know all of this.

 

[Chris705]

Cement board sheet goods? Might be considered more durable.....

 

[fnieto]

Cement board sheet goods? Might be considered more durable.....

+1 on this. We used this some years back on my neighbors home. The original T-111 made of wood was a free for all with local wood peckers. The replacement cement T-111 looks great 10+ years later.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I don't understand. You are blaming the T1-11 because the flashing is not correct?

Snow against T1-11 will cause it to delaminate.

 

[Zeke]

OK, focusing on the snow aspect and not the flashing. I don't think I'd want too much snow up against a house for too long. At least when it starts to melt. How high of drift? You could always run a horizontal skirt board or 3 with a Z-flashing to transition to the ply. Another solution would be to run a masonry wall around the base high enough to not let the snow damage the ply. I like the look of brick with wood siding above. Even simulated masonry veneer panels would do the trick.

If the ply must extend into the snow level I'd try a J-channel at the bottom with lots of weep holes. I'd leave the bottom of the channel a bit below the bottom of the ply. I'd punch the weep holes from the inside rather than drill them. This would make little funnels to draw the water out through surface tension. They should be left open at the ends and periodically down the long walls to clean out with compressed air.

You could periodically oil the channels. Chassis wax would work great.

 

[NUTTSGT]

This was some T1-11 that I took off the garage. It had an issue before we bought the place. My thoughts were that it rotted from the inside out, as there was more damage on the in that exposed to the weather.




Once it was pulled off, you can see a small stain where it was at, but nothing above.




. . . . and yes, I did try to clobber a woodpecker that put a couple of holes in my T1-11.

 

[Tucko]

I don't understand. You are blaming the T1-11 because the flashing is not correct? You could treat the edges with a resin, epoxy or polyester. Find something flexible in those categories.

Around here wood siding tends to be cedar board and batt or T1-11 with batts for the look of B&B. The advantage of cedar is that there doesn't have to be a break at 8 feet. I've heard about 10' and 12' sheets but never seen any.

AFA the bottom of any siding once again the edge has to be treated/painted better than the face. 6" above grade and all that jazz.

Reading your past posts I would think you pretty much know all of this.

I had T1-11 siding on the whole backside of my house, that was an add-on after the Whittier earthquake in the late 80's. The knucklehead that installed it, ran it horizontally to try to mimic the original redwood beveled siding on the rest of the house. I came to find out later when I replaced it, that they had water lapped it backwards.

 

[Zeke]

Not all T1-11 is scored. I just finished a job replacing several sections of the old 1/2" version that had redwood batts installed over each stud. No backing other than tar paper (real TAR paper). The siding was south facing, over planter areas and most likely hit with sprinklers for a lot of it's life. It was original to the late 60's construction. All the damage was within a foot of the bottom.

Not bad for nearly 50 years. I suspect it was painted with oil based flat when new. Don't know about lead as some paints didn't have any back then. The main problems that I could see were that the bottom edge wasn't sealed and the back of the batts were raw. Some batts were coming away. The redwood was not in that great of shape at the very bottoms. Again, no paint or primer on the bottom of the batts... ever.

But the concrete showing below was painted. Lazy *** painters for 50 years. Keep this plywood well coated and it will treat you right.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I use solid body stain on T1-11. It never peels, and it holds up fairly well. Around here, rough cut pine boards are about 11 dollars for a 10' 1''x12''. Maintenance is important.

Lots of people do authentic board and batten, and have for 200 + years. It's a pretty good alternative. Other people use agricultural metal roofing with the raised sections every 8'' as siding. It has a pretty generic board and batten look from a distance, and of course it is maintenance free.

The Hardie Board siding people also make their cement board product as a T1-11 type product. I have to say it is pathetically heavy, makes a dangerous dust when cut, and decomposes near the ground in places where there is freezing in the winter.

But it is another option.

 

[grissom]

I use solid body stain on T1-11. It never peels, and it holds up fairly well. Around here, rough cut pine boards are about 11 dollars for a 10' 1''x12''. Maintenance is important.

Lots of people do authentic board and batten, and have for 200 + years. It's a pretty good alternative. Other people use agricultural metal roofing with the raised sections every 8'' as siding. It has a pretty generic board and batten look from a distance, and of course it is maintenance free.

The Hardie Board siding people also make their cement board product as a T1-11 type product. I have to say it is pathetically heavy, makes a dangerous dust when cut, and decomposes near the ground in places where there is freezing in the winter.

But it is another option.

If you are using the solid body stain - how long are you able to go with out recoating?

 

[Woody610nb]

Take a look at "Smart Siding". It is an easy to install product that looks like T1-11.

 

[mikec35]

I like the smart siding. I've replaced probably $50,000 worth or T1-11 in the past 5 years because it warps, rots and peels- it requires a lot of maintenance to keep the moisture out.

 

[404]

This was some T1-11 that I took off the garage. It had an issue before we bought the place. My thoughts were that it rotted from the inside out, as there was more damage on the in that exposed to the weather.




Once it was pulled off, you can see a small stain where it was at, but nothing above.




. . . . and yes, I did try to clobber a woodpecker that put a couple of holes in my T1-11.

Moisture vapor leaking around the window, or through the block condensing on the T-111, making a giant ice ball between it and the window sill, pushing it out?

Awesome.

 

[finn]

The pine T1-11 seems to delaminate and rot.

My Cabin was made with a fir T1-11 product in 1990 and still looks good for bring 24 years old in Upper Michigan.. We re-stain it with a translucent Cedartone oil based stain every five years or so.

We are putting an addition to the house and find that the original fir product is no longer available. The builder is using a product called Breckenridge. I forgot the manufacturer.

Hope it lasts as well.

 

[b4z]

4x8' sheets of hardi panel are about $31. You can get them smooth or grained. I put battens over them every 8". It looks great. Pic of preprimed hardi panel and unprimed pressure treated battens during construction.

 

[brass89]

Be careful when shopping for wood siding stuff. It's about a 30-40min drive out my way to get to a hardware store like lowe's or h.d. and was hoping for t1-11. Most of what they had in stock (according to their websites) was cheaper and called a store special - basically their 'version' of t1-11. When I got to the store, I was sorely disappointed. Yes it was cheaper but nothing like t1-11.. it was rough as hell (like a d/d or worse if there is such a thing), already peeling apart, wafer thin with a funky texture. Ended up with lp smartside 4x8 sheets for my shed. Much better quality stuff. Even though the back (unfinished side) is an osb type texture (I knew this ahead of time), the back of the cheaper stuff was worse than the back of masonite/hardboard. Just stating a comparison I found between better quality stuff and 'house brand' knockoffs.

 

[Not Bob]

Our house is 30 years old, the original siding has held up pretty well, helped by a thick coat of Sherwin Williams Duration we gave it with brush and roller 12 years ago. However the T1-11 near the garage door trim started to fail last year.

Since I only needed to replace the siding on the lower part of the garage, I needed to match the thickness of the old siding. The Smartside I looked at was too thin, so I went with a product I found at HD called DuraTemp. It's plywood with a hardboard face. It comes pre-primed and has a 50 year warranty. It was the correct thickness and even a couple bucks cheaper than the straight plywood T1-11.

Went all the way down to the R.O., used a lot of Zinsser oil based primer and the new trim is an engineered product called TruWood. A few tubes of Dynaflex 230, my 12 year old leftover paint, which was still good although it shows how weathered the rest of the house is and the job was done.

The Dura Temp was easy to work with but the surface is very hard and will eat some nails (I still use hammers). Hope this helps.

 

[theoldwizard1]

OK, focusing on the snow aspect and not the flashing. I don't think I'd want too much snow up against a house for too long. At least when it starts to melt. How high of drift?

Obviously you don't live in MI near a lake. It is very easy to get a 3' drift on one side of you building. Even if you dig it out, it will be back when the wind blows.

Hardi-panel, or similar, is likely the best solution.