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Insulation for Metal Building - What is Ideal?

sagacious

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Nov 3, 2014
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so, I apologize up front for being the "newbie" that is asking a question that im assuming has been asked 1,000 times before. but I can't seem to find any "all inclusive" information on what is actually the best insulation for metal buildings.

We were originally looking at a radiant barrier insulation like Prodex, a 1/4'' thick closed cell polyethylene foam core with a reflective radiant barrier. although now we are seeing reviews that state the R values are almost nothing and that it's a waste of money.

when it comes to Fiberglass insulation (vinyl backed) for metal buildings, we've heard horror stories of how the fiberglass eventually retains moisture from the condensation of the building (as they naturally sweat) and the backing starts sagging, eventually separating and you'll end up with your insulation on the floor.

Spray Foam insulation - My major concern, which I hear people verifying online; is that foam inherently retains moisture. So, you're essentially spraying moisture retaining foam up against metal and it's just a matter of time before your building will rust. Unless I am missing something? I have seen a similar situation numerous times where people spray 'Great Stuff" expanding foam up against metal panels in their (classic) vehicles. they rot out in no time.

so, is there any *best* option out there for insulating my 40'x72'x14' metal building in Central Texas? it's hard to weed through all the "snake foil" insulation claims and it seems like everything I'm looking at has an *eventual* major drawback. can anyone steer me in the right direction?
 
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Rookie2

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Well since it's up you have to seal the seams (panel joints) . If I had it to do over I would have an insulation contractor come in and spray foam all the metal and corners. Pole buildings are a challenge and if you have a metal roof ,they usually create condensation.
 

kj_mustang

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Spray Foam insulation - My major concern, which I hear people verifying online; is that foam inherently retains moisture. So, you're essentially spraying moisture retaining foam up against metal and it's just a matter of time before your building will rust. Unless I am missing something? I have seen a similar situation numerous times where people spray 'Great Stuff" expanding foam up against metal panels in their (classic) vehicles. they rot out in no time.

Closed cell spray foam does not adsorb or retain water. If there is an air gap between the metal panel and the spray foam then water vapor could be trapped there and cause rust to the meal. Closed cell spray foam applied properly should not leave air gaps and when applied to adequate thickness will not allow water vapor to pass through it.
 
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JeremiahTRD

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Piney Flats Tennessee
What KJ Mustang Said.

Closed Cell foam when properly applied will have no voids or space between the foam/metal. Thus eliminating rust. Closed Cell Foam will last the life of the building.

A couple things to mention. If your using a thinner 28 gauge metal Closed Cell Foam will flex and bend the metal particularly around the screw heads. Not a problem with thicker commercial metal.

Also if your using foam you should not leave it exposed for fire safety.
Obviously it depends on what your doing in the building..... Welding sparks etc.. but something to consider.

In addition Great Stuff is more closely linked to an open cell type foam which can retain moisture. Explain's the problem you mentioned in using it in classic cars.


For what it's worth I own a spray foam insulation company in TN.
So yes i'm an advocate for Spray Foam! haha
 

Highbeam

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I have a pole barn in wet western washington. My poles were true 6x8 so my my wall cavity is actually quite thick. Normal pole building walls are poles and then girts. Before the metal went up on the walls I applied house wrap which is an air barrier and a water barrier but not a vapor barrier. Then metal right on top. That house wrap is the drainage plane and I never had any moisture on the inside of the housewrap from condensation or otherwise. I built framework flush to the inside of the posts and installed faced FG batts such that there is a gap of 3 or so inches between the housewrap and the FG. Then OSB sheeting on the inside to cover the faced FG.

Look at pole barn metal and you will see the ribs that allow air to move past the girts.

I am not worried about water coming from the metal. I am worried more about roof leaks. I did not use a metal roof, regular house composition to match my home.
 

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toyoguy81

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I was on a budget and my pole barn was built in 2013, i just insulated 2 months ago with 6 inch R19 rolls with the white vinyl backing. It was a pain in the a$$ but was well worth it. Only a couple months old so I cannot comment on longevity, i sealed up most of the gaps at corners with great stuff spray foam. Definite difference in temperature. Here are some pics.
 

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Rookie2

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