Would electrolysis work to free-up rusted stainless bolt?

[GarageWarrior]

I need to free up a stainless hinge-bolt that is stuck pretty good in Garmin Chartplotter mounting bracket. The bracket is plastic with a steel nut embedded in it.

Would electrolysis work? Any other non-destructive methods?

 

[Moose364]

maybe a little brake fluid dripped on it, Ive had really good luck with brake fluid eating rust

 

[SweetD]

Pretty sure that stainless steel and electrolysis do not mix...

Has to be plain steel with no metal coatings for electrolysis to be safe.

Not to mention that plastic in an electrolysis situation may not be ideal.

Someone else will chime in to confirm or deny...

How about some Kroil?

Dave

 

[finn]

If it is stainless, it is probably galled threads, not corrosion.

 

[drivesitfar]

don't use stainless in electrolysis tank.

vinegar works.

molasses with water (1 part molasses to 9 parts water is the mix) works

diesel works

kroil or pb blaster works

there are a few options that could work and a few pictures of your part might help us help you know which ones not to use. no electrolysis with stainless and probably not galvanized, chrome or nickel either.

 

[454cid]

First of all the "danger" with stainless and electrolysis is using it as the anode, not with the part being cleaned. Unless it's something like a 400 series stainless I wouldn't think it would be corroded, Though. The solution shouldn't hurt the plastic, either.

*I put danger in quotes, becasue I don't consider the chromium to be a real issue. I did some reading on it a few years ago, and much of the "danger" seemed to be the same thing parroted over and over again. The people that really knew something about the chemisty, didn't seem to think it was a huge deal. No I can't provide links, and I won't argue about it.

 

[VersionOne]

Pb Blaster works as said above. But what works even better is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. It's proven to work better than any commercial penetrating oil available.

 

[drivesitfar]

Version: that's the one i was thinking of and couldn't remember the name of. by the way is this product available yet or do we need to mix our own? if it's available anybody have a link or a product name because i also heard it works better than all the rest.

 

[Norcal]

If it is stainless, it is probably galled threads, not corrosion.

That was my thought when first read the thread title, if that is the case grinding may be the best way to go.

 

[Lippyp]

I use a chemical called DEOX-C that is safe enough to shove your hand in with no problems yet it eats rust like good-un. Perfectly safe on plastics too. It's made by a company called Bilt-Hamber and comes as a powder you dissolve in water.

I wouldn't put acetone on something plastic unless you know it isn't going to dissolve!

 

[GarageWarrior]

Here's the bracket in question:

As you can see - bolt head is inside the molded plastic knob, and the nut on the other end is also embedded in plastic holder.

So rust remover would have to penetrate the bolt/nut threads and free up the bolt so that it can be removed without applying a-lot of force.

Lippy - what's DEOX-C? I don't think DEOX-C is available in the US. Is it similar to Evapo-rust (rust remover that works primarily as chelating agent)? Can it penetrate bolt threads?

 

[sbyrne92]

Why not drill it out a buy yourself a new stud and nuts?

 

[dawgee]

pb blaster works great let it soak in for 15 minutes or so and have at it

 

[Lippyp]

Here's the bracket in question:

As you can see - bolt head is inside the molded plastic knob, and the nut on the other end is also embedded in plastic holder.

So rust remover would have to penetrate the bolt/nut threads and free up the bolt so that it can be removed without applying a-lot of force.

Lippy - what's DEOX-C? I don't think DEOX-C is available in the US. Is it similar to Evapo-rust (rust remover that works primarily as chelating agent)? Can it penetrate bolt threads?

Yes I think it probably is similar to evaporust, if you soak it overnight it does penetrate threads, no guarantees though I'm afraid. DEOX-C is made by this company http://www.bilthamber.com/

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I need to free up a stainless hinge-bolt that is stuck pretty good in Garmin Chartplotter mounting bracket. The bracket is plastic with a steel nut embedded in it.

Would electrolysis work? Any other non-destructive methods?

If it is stainless steel, why is it rusted?

 

[VersionOne]

The 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is a home-brew item, not available in stores. It's long been used, just not as widely known as it should be.

Also, the reason the the stainless bolt is rusted to the steel nut is because of a process called galvanic corrosion. This happens often when two different metals come together.

 

[454cid]

If it is stainless steel, why is it rusted?

To me, it looks like the bolt might be stainless, but a regular steel nut, that's been colored black/gray.

 

[Strouty]

When you do get it free, put a little neverseize on it. It looks like they used a regular nut to save five cents. I don't think I would try brake fluid, it usually eats or at least discolors plastics. The ATF/Acetone is a good one for sure. It works similar to Kroil, which is awesome, but pricey.