Outlawmws
Well-known member
No experience here either, but maybe dinner and a movie?
Be careful making moves; That could hurt if she snapped shut at the wrong time...
The VINTAGE toolboxes of Garage Journal!
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No experience here either, but maybe dinner and a movie?
Be careful making moves; That could hurt if she snapped shut at the wrong time...
gipraw
Well-known member
No experience here either, but maybe dinner and a movie?
Be careful making moves; That could hurt if she snapped shut at the wrong time...
I'm not worried. She let me in her box the first time we met.
jakemac
Well-known member
Great story ! Glad you didn't push her on the box.
If you get the chance, tell her to rub some paste wax on the rusted area to help slow down the progression.
ZRX61
Well-known member
ChannelLocks would be my guess....
Outlawmws
Well-known member
AFAIK this is the most active. Hamb has a thread, but it's not doing much at all
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Re: other VINTAGE toolboxes sites
ASAIK = As far as I know.
Again I will ask, what box are you working on?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vintage+tool+box+restoration+site:garagejournal.com
ASAIK = As far as I know.
Again I will ask, what box are you working on?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vintage+tool+box+restoration+site:garagejournal.com
other VINTAGE toolboxes sites
still working on the 6 drawer aztec. just got done polishing the paint. does not look all that bad. might think of a respray in the spring. also have a old sk 2 drawer and some old craftsman hand boxes that are going to be winter projects. thanks jim
still working on the 6 drawer aztec. just got done polishing the paint. does not look all that bad. might think of a respray in the spring. also have a old sk 2 drawer and some old craftsman hand boxes that are going to be winter projects. thanks jim
Dennis Leigh Henry
Well-known member
Channel Locks would be a good guess... (and yes, I've caught the blue handle fever). If I need to transport them..certainly. More than likely it will become my socket wrench box.. since I have a cantilever add on, a drawer in my Kennedy, and several on the peg board that I could consolidate to it..
Dennis Leigh Henry
Well-known member
PB Blaster to knock down the heavy rust first? Seems like someone said that a few panes back...
Dennis Leigh Henry
Well-known member
Seems fairly "late model" to me with that label.. i.e. 1990s or younger..
crice63
Well-known member
This seems like the place to ask about old boxes, so here goes. Maybe I can move it if its not right. I've bought three recently. I'd like to use them, and don't need them to look shiny and new, but would like them to last. I'd like to interrupt rusting if possible.
The first is on old Kennedy ($5) that is identical in every way to a box on the first page of this thread, except the little plastic handles are a tad lighter shade of brown and I have Kennedy rather than Craftsman badging.
It is mostly straight but really rusty on the bottom--one small spot of rust-through doesn't show up on the pic.
Most of the drawers have some rust on the front, and the front plate covering the drawers is the worst--looks like it sat open on the floor for years, so the rust is considerable. I've wire-brushed most of the loose rust off, but didn't know what to do next. The slides work great, pull like butter, except for those on one small drawer that must have been hit while it was half way out--the slides are slightly bent and inhibit full opening/closing. Can I replace these slides? My experience rebending bent metal is that it never works right, but I'm willing to take suggestions.
Also, I removed old brown felt from the insides of the drawers and there is rusting everywhere it was glued. Don't want it to continue rusting--can it be stopped? And what are people using for drawer liners?
I'll do the others on another post just to keep things in hand.
The first is on old Kennedy ($5) that is identical in every way to a box on the first page of this thread, except the little plastic handles are a tad lighter shade of brown and I have Kennedy rather than Craftsman badging.
It is mostly straight but really rusty on the bottom--one small spot of rust-through doesn't show up on the pic.
Most of the drawers have some rust on the front, and the front plate covering the drawers is the worst--looks like it sat open on the floor for years, so the rust is considerable. I've wire-brushed most of the loose rust off, but didn't know what to do next. The slides work great, pull like butter, except for those on one small drawer that must have been hit while it was half way out--the slides are slightly bent and inhibit full opening/closing. Can I replace these slides? My experience rebending bent metal is that it never works right, but I'm willing to take suggestions.
Also, I removed old brown felt from the insides of the drawers and there is rusting everywhere it was glued. Don't want it to continue rusting--can it be stopped? And what are people using for drawer liners?
I'll do the others on another post just to keep things in hand.
taumac
Well-known member
Great buy at $5. The slides can bent back into shape. It just takes some time and when bending them you can you a long screwdriver to fill the channel as to not deform it. As for the rust they make a spray can that converts the rust to a primer. I forgot the name. POR I heard works great on rust but its expensive.This seems like the place to ask about old boxes, so here goes. Maybe I can move it if its not right. I've bought three recently. I'd like to use them, and don't need them to look shiny and new, but would like them to last. I'd like to interrupt rusting if possible.
The first is on old Kennedy ($5) that is identical in every way to a box on the first page of this thread, except the little plastic handles are a tad lighter shade of brown and I have Kennedy rather than Craftsman badging.
It is mostly straight but really rusty on the bottom--one small spot of rust-through doesn't show up on the pic.
Most of the drawers have some rust on the front, and the front plate covering the drawers is the worst--looks like it sat open on the floor for years, so the rust is considerable. I've wire-brushed most of the loose rust off, but didn't know what to do next. The slides work great, pull like butter, except for those on one small drawer that must have been hit while it was half way out--the slides are slightly bent and inhibit full opening/closing. Can I replace these slides? My experience rebending bent metal is that it never works right, but I'm willing to take suggestions.
Also, I removed old brown felt from the insides of the drawers and there is rusting everywhere it was glued. Don't want it to continue rusting--can it be stopped? And what are people using for drawer liners?
I'll do the others on another post just to keep things in hand.
Have a good one, Gerard
crice63
Well-known member
Next, I purchased a top/bottom roller combo for $120. Seems kind of high, but I liked them and like them even more after working on them for a bit.
The bottom is a Craftsman 65035, made in 7/74.
Judging from the dates on the **** I found behind the drawers, the same person owned it throughout its lifetime (sorry, no pics...). The guy I got it from had picked it up at an estate sale but not cleaned it up.
Three issues. First, the drawers are lined in green cork-bottom turf, like an old indoor putting green or the stuff at putt-putts. The cork is completely dried out and falling apart. In one drawer it was loose, so I pulled it out and cleaned it up--perfect paint underneath. On the very bottom, though, it is very rusty under the glue and does not want to come up. that's really the second issue, is that the bottom only has some pretty aggressive looking rust starting, crumbly in places but not flaky yet. It should probably be dealt with. Should I remove all the liners, even where it seems firm? And what do I do with the rusty areas. I don't think the whole thing needs repainting.
Pulled the liner from this side of the drawer and it looks great underneath. Below is the bottom section with rust starting on the back.
Third question--the back right caster seems wonky. It does not like to turn and as a result the only smooth roll is if you want to pull it curving to the right. Everything else is really just dragging. I was going to pull all the casters just to clean up or replace the very rusty screws holding them; can this bad one be replaced? Where to get such a part?
Oh, I thought of a fourth question: the slides are not ball bearing, and are in good shape, but could use some form of lubrication. What is the right stuff for this job?
The bottom is a Craftsman 65035, made in 7/74.
Judging from the dates on the **** I found behind the drawers, the same person owned it throughout its lifetime (sorry, no pics...). The guy I got it from had picked it up at an estate sale but not cleaned it up.
Three issues. First, the drawers are lined in green cork-bottom turf, like an old indoor putting green or the stuff at putt-putts. The cork is completely dried out and falling apart. In one drawer it was loose, so I pulled it out and cleaned it up--perfect paint underneath. On the very bottom, though, it is very rusty under the glue and does not want to come up. that's really the second issue, is that the bottom only has some pretty aggressive looking rust starting, crumbly in places but not flaky yet. It should probably be dealt with. Should I remove all the liners, even where it seems firm? And what do I do with the rusty areas. I don't think the whole thing needs repainting.
Pulled the liner from this side of the drawer and it looks great underneath. Below is the bottom section with rust starting on the back.
Third question--the back right caster seems wonky. It does not like to turn and as a result the only smooth roll is if you want to pull it curving to the right. Everything else is really just dragging. I was going to pull all the casters just to clean up or replace the very rusty screws holding them; can this bad one be replaced? Where to get such a part?
Oh, I thought of a fourth question: the slides are not ball bearing, and are in good shape, but could use some form of lubrication. What is the right stuff for this job?
crice63
Well-known member
Saved the most interesting for last. The top box turned out not to be a craftsman, but a Duplex, box number 1244, made in Fort Smith Arkansas.
I did find the key for the bottom box but not for this one--I assume I can get one made. The drawers, again no ball bearings, pull like it was made yesterday. They are all straight and clean, no rust inside. They are all lined with black "Cantoni Italian Suede, Made in Italy," glued down with something that admitted no moisture, but that also does not come off. I will leave the liners I think, except where some of the suede has rotted. I need to clean up that epoxy or glue. What should I use? Or maybe just put new liner in without messing with it? I'd rather not remove the paint if I could.
Minor surface rust graces the front drawer handles, but is aggressive in the box bottom, especially along the back and side walls, and along the front outer lip. How do I handle this?
And the handles are the worst. Chrome or whatever was lining it has flaked off. Just sand and paint, or is there a nicer looking or more lasting solution?
There is also some rust on the outside, in places, and the top has what looks like serious bubble starting under the paint.
The front door has bent right below where the double wall stops. The thing will operate better if I can get it straightened out so the door will close neatly. How should i do this?
I'm new to tool boxes, but knew I'd like the character of something that has lasted rather then just getting something new. I like these boxes and hope to be able to keep them around a good while. That's why I'm hoping for advice, suggestions, or links.
I did find the key for the bottom box but not for this one--I assume I can get one made. The drawers, again no ball bearings, pull like it was made yesterday. They are all straight and clean, no rust inside. They are all lined with black "Cantoni Italian Suede, Made in Italy," glued down with something that admitted no moisture, but that also does not come off. I will leave the liners I think, except where some of the suede has rotted. I need to clean up that epoxy or glue. What should I use? Or maybe just put new liner in without messing with it? I'd rather not remove the paint if I could.
Minor surface rust graces the front drawer handles, but is aggressive in the box bottom, especially along the back and side walls, and along the front outer lip. How do I handle this?
And the handles are the worst. Chrome or whatever was lining it has flaked off. Just sand and paint, or is there a nicer looking or more lasting solution?
There is also some rust on the outside, in places, and the top has what looks like serious bubble starting under the paint.
The front door has bent right below where the double wall stops. The thing will operate better if I can get it straightened out so the door will close neatly. How should i do this?
I'm new to tool boxes, but knew I'd like the character of something that has lasted rather then just getting something new. I like these boxes and hope to be able to keep them around a good while. That's why I'm hoping for advice, suggestions, or links.
Crice, good finds and great boxes. You can usually remove stubborn glue by soaking the drawer liners in either mineral spirits(less aggressive) or straight gasoline(more aggressive) but BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL with either and do it outside, away from buildings with fire extinguisher handy.
The caster may be just dried grease, or could be bent some. Take it off and inspect it, then get back with us.
If you want to convert the rust to primer, there are many products available or if you would like to keep the finish, just prevent further rusting, I suggest cleaning really good then soaking rags in vinegar or CLR and wrapping the affected areas. Keep the rags soaked for a few days, you may need to saran wrap the box to keep the rags wet. That will remove the rust, leaving bare metal behind, it may require some scrubbing. From there, you will need to treat that bare metal, I use Fluid Film in a spray can on all my bare metal but Johnsons Paste Wax works great too.
To lubricate the slides, use natural Beeswax.
The caster may be just dried grease, or could be bent some. Take it off and inspect it, then get back with us.
If you want to convert the rust to primer, there are many products available or if you would like to keep the finish, just prevent further rusting, I suggest cleaning really good then soaking rags in vinegar or CLR and wrapping the affected areas. Keep the rags soaked for a few days, you may need to saran wrap the box to keep the rags wet. That will remove the rust, leaving bare metal behind, it may require some scrubbing. From there, you will need to treat that bare metal, I use Fluid Film in a spray can on all my bare metal but Johnsons Paste Wax works great too.
To lubricate the slides, use natural Beeswax.
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taumac
Well-known member
Crice, I love the Craftsman myself. I have a few and they are great boxes. Is the top drawer missing? Nine had a lot of good info. If you plan to repaint it I've used this this.
Its called antique pewter.
The left one has been repainted while the right one hasn't. Its the best match I've found.
Have a good one, Gerard
Its called antique pewter.
The left one has been repainted while the right one hasn't. Its the best match I've found.
Have a good one, Gerard
Most people wire wheel the handles/latches until shiny, then coat them to stay sorta shiny. If you are not concerned with originality, there are replacement handles/latches in the hardware section at Lowes and HD that are REALLY close. Sometimes the holes even match up, sometimes they require new holes but the handles usually cover the old holes.
Taumac, that is about as close to factory as you can get, I bet if that original paint was 20 yrs younger, it would be an exact match.
Taumac, that is about as close to factory as you can get, I bet if that original paint was 20 yrs younger, it would be an exact match.
coleman10
Well-known member
Here's my K-55W ('41-'46) that I got from my dad. It really needs to be restored, but the fixed drawer dividers really don't work for me. Still, it would be difficult to get rid of it. I was seriously thinking of selling it and putting the money toward a new Craftsman box.
79silverado
Active member
Old powrkraft top and proto bottom
sent from my HTC ONE using tapatalk
taumac
Well-known member
Thanks Nine, Here's something I did on my machinist boxes.
I just repainted them using some of this.
Granted I thought it would come out chrome but I liked the finish.
Have a good one, Gerard
I just repainted them using some of this.
Granted I thought it would come out chrome but I liked the finish.
Have a good one, Gerard
jakemac
Well-known member
crice63 - About the handles ........
I had a pair off of a Waterloo built toolbox that needed to be cleaned. They weren't as far gone as yours, but this may help.
I soaked the handles in CLR overnight, wiped the rust off with a paper towel, dipped them again for a while to get any rust that was left, and dried them off. Rinse with clean water to neutralize the CLR. Then, I gave them a light kiss with a fine wire wheel to clean them up. After that, I rubbed vigorously with Nevr-Dul polishing wads, buffed with a clean cloth, and sealed them with paste wax and buffed again.
The screws just got the wire wheel treatment and wax.
Mine still had most of the chrome left. Your's likely don't have any chrome left, so you will need to get down to bare metal and polish it.
Before and After :
I had a pair off of a Waterloo built toolbox that needed to be cleaned. They weren't as far gone as yours, but this may help.
I soaked the handles in CLR overnight, wiped the rust off with a paper towel, dipped them again for a while to get any rust that was left, and dried them off. Rinse with clean water to neutralize the CLR. Then, I gave them a light kiss with a fine wire wheel to clean them up. After that, I rubbed vigorously with Nevr-Dul polishing wads, buffed with a clean cloth, and sealed them with paste wax and buffed again.
The screws just got the wire wheel treatment and wax.
Mine still had most of the chrome left. Your's likely don't have any chrome left, so you will need to get down to bare metal and polish it.
Before and After :
Attachments
crice63
Well-known member
Thanks for all the great tips, guys. What about the bent front door of the Duplex? Unless I want to dismantle a piano hinge I can't take it off the cabinet. Any tips for bending this back into straight?
Use a piece of heavy angle steel, use double sided tap to stick small pieces of wood to the angle, one to contact the top of the panel below the hinge and one to contact the lower part of the panel. Then use a large C clamp at midspan to slowly work the bend out. You want the clamp to go behind the panel and reach around to the top of the angle steel. It will be a 3pt bending setup. Prop the lid up at a 45 degree angle. You really don't want to open the front cover on those more than 90 degrees from the top cover. Bending it all the way back like you did in the pics is not a good idea.
The side handles look pretty far gone. I'd probably find a donor set. Luckily Craftsman , Huot and a number of other makers used them so they can be pretty easy to source. Or you can buy some blank chest handles then drill and paint to match.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
but an added comment: use a spreader with the C clamp so you don't dent the panel, and for any kniks and a folded edge, you need a pair of "bull nose tongs"I've posted a couple pair MUCH earlier in this thread, showing both use and the making of such a tool from a dead set of nippers.
Found my 5th Hazet Assistent and received it today. This time an another 171. Haven't restored any of them yet but maybe someday when I run out of other projects 
4 of them (162, 166 and 2 x 171) at my garage, one (166) at the office.
The new one:
And general view of the carts etc.
Sorry, a large space with dim lighting + small camera = bad pics.
4 of them (162, 166 and 2 x 171) at my garage, one (166) at the office.
The new one:
And general view of the carts etc.
Sorry, a large space with dim lighting + small camera = bad pics.
FJ 432
Well-known member
Found my 5th Hazet Assistent and received it today. This time an another 171. Haven't restored any of them yet but maybe someday when I run out of other projects
4 of them (162, 166 and 2 x 171) at my garage, one (166) at the office.
Well now you're just bragging! Those are great carts and hardly ever seen here in the states.
Nooo...I wouldn't do that. BTW. did you notice how I currently one of use them as paper towel stand?
Yes, I agree. But the both 171's would need good cleaning and new rubber at the top edge if I can find the proper kind somewhere.nine4gmc said:
IIRC the 162 (pre 1965) at front of the pic is ex German military, others are from old VW shops and mechs.
Ps. they are very rare or at least hard to find in my country too. I have bought every single one I have found and then imported couple.
Bill Ramsey
Well-known member
crice63, I had the exact same handle in about the same condition as jakemac's, on a Huot box. Mine got a 4-day soak in Evaporust, then a hand polish with automotive polishing compound, followed by automotive wax. At that point it wasn't factory new, but the rust was gone and I was happy enough with it. I agree yours may be too far gone for that. I would suggest a soak in Evaporust, CLR, or vinegar as has been mentioned, then re-evaluate. If little plating is left, then wire wheel and polish if that brings you to a bare finish you can live with, then wax or fluid film. If not, then a metallic paint as mentioned by taumac in post 3309.
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Old powrkraft top and proto bottom
sent from my HTC ONE using tapatalk
very cool. you got a better pic of the PROTO?
crice63
Well-known member
Taumac--Did you remove your clasps, paint, then re-rivet? Or just mask and spray?
Zkling--thanks for the 3-point bending suggestion. I will try that out, need to find a long enough piece of angle iron.
Outlaw--I found your earlier post with the bending tool design. I do have a few rough edges, but no welder so can't make your exact tool. However, I was looking around a while back for info on installing spring pins, and came across many recs for Knipex pliers with smooth jaws. Though much narrower than your tools, they might work for my small adjustments. I have an order pending so might be able to try.
Zkling--thanks for the 3-point bending suggestion. I will try that out, need to find a long enough piece of angle iron.
Outlaw--I found your earlier post with the bending tool design. I do have a few rough edges, but no welder so can't make your exact tool. However, I was looking around a while back for info on installing spring pins, and came across many recs for Knipex pliers with smooth jaws. Though much narrower than your tools, they might work for my small adjustments. I have an order pending so might be able to try.
taumac
Well-known member
I did drill out the solid rivits. I wire wheeled them, painted and revited them back on.
Have a good one, Gerard
Have a good one, Gerard