Truss issue

[Blown454ss]

Afew months ago I ordered a "garage kit" from Menards. The project has taken longer than expected due to weather and me doing all the work my self. So I'm at the point of throwing the trusses up and got about 6 of them up there laying down. We started sliding them done and noticed the length seems off. They are sissor trusses, on one side of the trusses there is about a 1' flat side that sits on the double top plate and the other side has just the normal notch that sits on the plate, this would the inside have a long flat spot on the inside celing. Too top it off the pitch is slightly different from the sissor trusses and the end truss. I'm going out right now to snap a few pic that will help make more sense

 

[Blown454ss]

Here is a few to start

 

[Blown454ss]

Just to add while the other pics are uploading, if I built it the way they show in the truss design it would have a 2' eve on one side and 1' on the other with a garage width of 26' rather than the 28' it should be

 

[Blown454ss]

 

[mitusa]

Waiting for more pics.......but this might go in the WTF thread?

Unless this is what you wanted, I would make contact with menards to get their thoughts.

 

[Blown454ss]

I went in last night but it is a Saturday night so no one knew. The said they would send the truss engineer out on Monday

 

[Zeke]

Those are not correct for your layout. But if they will work you can run a long row of upper storage cabinets under the flat and it will look like it was designed for them.

 

[Blown454ss]

Those are not correct for your layout. But if they will work you can run a long row of upper storage cabinets under the flat and it will look like it was designed for them.

That was my thinking if they don't want to do anything about it.

 

[warren57]

The gable end trusses are correct, you add a nailer to the inside to match the scissor truss. Best to slide the scissor up next to the gable truss when installing and scribe a line to nail the 2x nailer to.
Now the scissor trusses. They are designed to be mounted on top of the wall plate on one side and the side with the "flat side" is designed for an additional flat overhang, outside the wall plate. The truss is supported on the wall plate about a foot in from the edge of the truss or in other words you would have a flat overhang outside the wall, then a pitched eave. Normally used on a side with a porch to keep ceiling height.
Not what you need, but a common design.
No real fix if you want both sides of the room to match. If the store won't take them back because they are old, you have two choices, order new trusses, or live with one side of the room looking different.
Can't answer for support, but they are actually designed to have the wall at the point where the flat area starts, not out on the end where you have them. They should be over the wall at the internmost area and cantilever out past the wall line.
A little hard to describe.....

 

[Blown454ss]

A little update, I was finally able to get in to Menards on Friday and talked to a guy in the building area he made it very easy. He returned the wrong ones and ordered the correct sissors down side is they are 3 weeks out. They did say it was their fault and they don't want the old ones back. They did make me pay for the delivery charge, I had my three year old son with me so I didn't want to argue with them at the time so I will be going back alone. It was $140 that I don't think I should have to pay cause I already paid the fee on the original order and it was not my fault.

 

[Blown454ss]

The gable end trusses are correct, you add a nailer to the inside to match the scissor truss. Best to slide the scissor up next to the gable truss when installing and scribe a line to nail the 2x nailer to.
Now the scissor trusses. They are designed to be mounted on top of the wall plate on one side and the side with the "flat side" is designed for an additional flat overhang, outside the wall plate. The truss is supported on the wall plate about a foot in from the edge of the truss or in other words you would have a flat overhang outside the wall, then a pitched eave. Normally used on a side with a porch to keep ceiling height.
Not what you need, but a common design.
No real fix if you want both sides of the room to match. If the store won't take them back because they are old, you have two choices, order new trusses, or live with one side of the room looking different.
Can't answer for support, but they are actually designed to have the wall at the point where the flat area starts, not out on the end where you have them. They should be over the wall at the internmost area and cantilever out past the wall line.
A little hard to describe.....

These look like the would work best for an eve entry for the extra over hang over the doors, my neighbor want to build a garage this spring so maybe I'll see if he wants to buy them

 

[Rickss96]

I am to hear that Menards will stand behind their work and give you the correct design. I agree with Warren's concern about the design:

... they are actually designed to have the wall at the point where the flat area starts, not out on the end where you have them. They should be over the wall at the internmost area and cantilever out past the wall line ...

Any significant load on the roof (snow load? you walking on roof?) could cause that truss to collapse at the flat area-angled area point.

As for the _extra_ delivery charge, document everything and write a letter to store manager; if that does not work send a copy to the CEO of Menards. Good luck!