Don't want to blow myself up. Looking for Advice

[jwest7788]

Hey Team,

Recently bought an air compressor from a gentleman on my local classifieds.
(White = Snow, Lame.)


Advertised as 100Gallon. Clearly has a retrofitted pump on it, not sure about the motor, but doubt original.

In particular I'm looking for help deciphering the label on the tank and not blowing myself up in testing.



After scrubbing the oil/dirt and paint off, I believe it reads:
CJWA4778
CSA5427
SH4573A
5 6 45

I gather the bottom line means "Old as hell" (I.e. 5th of June, 1945)

If you can help with the label, that would be sweet, but in the mean time:


I would like to hydotest the tank, but my faucet has already frozen for the winter, and I can't think of an efficient method of moving 100 gallons of water. (Thats 378.5 Liters for my fellow metric users)
Alternatively, I think of it like two years worth of milk jugs, at one jug a week. (alot)


Alternative to a hydro test, I wanted to confirm everyone's thoughts on filling it to 135 PSI with my other compressor (While safely in a totally different building)


The end goal is to run this bad boy at 125 PSI for normal use...





Other notes:
The pressure switch was set to cut out at 70PSI upon arrival. (This is the red flag that has me feeling like treading lightly, and from far away, haha)

The seller explained that this was his fathers, and his dad was downsizing. (To me this indicates good things, but to be taken with a grain of salt, as it was a 'seller' making these comments. -- Seemed like a really nice guy though, got to talking about his kids playing air hockey etc, but who knows)

Tank appears to be 1/4" thick, instead of typical 1/8", will confirm.

The pump appears way to small for this size tank:

Clearly retrofitted, as fresh paint, bright orange. Unlike everything else.

The motor stats:
2HP (is what's shown on the label. Based on what I can see, assume this is actual HP, not peak HP. For discussion, let's say Peak HP is 5hp)
1725RPM
240V 12A
Large and heavy, lol.



Can grab more pics as needed, but in summary:
Anyone know what the label means?
Alternative tests to hydrostatic pressure test? (Fill from afar, and confirm it can handle it doesn't seem safe, any method to fill to 200PSI from a distance?)
Alternative 100Gallon water transfer techniques?
Any other tips or insights?




Preemptively,
Yes, I have seen this: (top right corner)

And am aware of these:
https://www.google.ca/search?q=air+...a=X&ei=jLFjVO-uLpK5ogTXnYGQCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg

(That's why I'm here)

 

[mtwaterguy]

Since moisture would settle to the bottom and begin the rust process, I would start on the bottom of the tank with a ball peen hammer looking for soft spots.

 

[Jswain]

I seen that on kijiji and honestly if my garage was done I would have been calling. Is there a 2" bushing on the bottom? Aside from hydrotesting if there is a large enough port on the bottom I would be taking a pipe wrench, pulling it out and visually inspecting the tank on the inside. If you don't see a lot of rust on the inside, and it looks good on the outside then set it for 125 and call er a day. If that port on the bottom is 2", which it looks like it is then you should be able to see the entire inside of the tank with an inspection mirror & a flashlight.

 

[jwest7788]

I seen that on kijiji and honestly if my garage was done I would have been calling.

You must be in the market then, as I snagged that up pretty quickly, Same seller has a massive diesel steamer for sale for $50, not sure if of interest to you, but the engine alone must be worth more then $50. Link

Is there a 2" bushing on the bottom? [pull] it out and visually inspect[...] on the inside.

Thanks, Will confirm tonight and everyone know what I find.

I would start on the bottom of the tank with a ball peen hammer looking for soft spots.

Assuming there is any rust, will follow this advice. Is the general consensus that if hard wack's with a ball-peen have no effect then I should be good to 125PSI?

 

[MBfreak]

Since you have clearly stated that you do not want to blow yourself up, do not take a shortcut.
Inspecting it visually and by looking for soft-sounding spots with a pointed hammer is a good start.

But since there are welds holding the tank togeteher and it IS old, please hydrotest it . My guess would be that a hydrotest to the double pressure you will set the overpressure relief valve would be good.

And like was sung in the movie Waterhole nr 3 with James Coburn
" And cut him down at long range. To be on the safe side, he did his shooting from behind his horse" ( Quted by heart, basically correct)

Take that to heart.

Good luck

Ola

 

[wild cowboy]

change the oil, use any good 0W-20 synthetic for cars which is better than what's in there.

or ideally, find the correct 150 SUS/32 ISO oil such as or Mobil Rarus 824 or Suniso 3GS or Calumet C3 or Chevron/Texaco Tegra

 

[Jswain]

You must be in the market then, as I snagged that up pretty quickly, Same seller has a massive diesel steamer for sale for $50, not sure if of interest to you, but the engine alone must be worth more then $50. Link

Thanks, Will confirm tonight and everyone know what I find.

Assuming there is any rust, will follow this advice. Is the general consensus that if hard wack's with a ball-peen have no effect then I should be good to 125PSI?

Always in the market! And working with boilers everyday I wouldn't touch that thing with a 100ft pole unless I was planning on completely rebuilding the entire unit, think of a compressor blowing up with added fuel/steam to the mix and quite a few more failsafes that can & do fail when not properly maintained. Although I did look at it for an extra minute when I first seen it pop up

Honestly I wouldn't be hitting anything with a ball pein(or any other type of) hammer. Pull that 2" bushing out and visually inspect the tank from the inside, and clean up/inspect the outside.

You really should hydrotest it though, especially if you see ANY amount of rust, really 380L is not a lot you could hook up a garden hose to your faucet or bite the bullet and fill up 2 20L pails 10 times depending on how far your house is from the shop. Hydrotest it to 250psi for as long as you please and if there are no leaks you will have peace of mind for the 100g 125psi pressure vessel sleeping next to you. For me that's worth the hour or two of work.

 

[G_P]

Open the tank drain and see if rusty water comes out. If nothing comes out, poke a wire up through the drain to make sure the valve is not clogged full of rust.

If the tank has been taken care of it is probably fine. If it has not been regularly drained it will probably be rusted pretty bad on the bottom and may be unusable.

As for hydro testing it, you can get adapters that screw on faucets in place of the aerator that will allow you to connect a garden hose.

 

[woody 73]

Honey child after watching this video you would not catch me anywhere near that old tank:

 

[jwest7788]

Alright, I'm convinced, will figure out a way to hydro test it if it shows any signs of rust (like I'm sure it will)

To be clear on the process, as I haven't stumbled across an actual how-to:
Fill with water to brim, add T fitting to only unsealed hole in tank, pressure guage on one end, grease ****** on the other, Use a grease gun to pump water in till reaches target pressure (say 250PSI), then drain. Correct?

 

[Jswain]

Correct, except pump grease in not water, make sure it is FULL that will prevent you from extra pumping.


EDIT: It indeed appears people are filling the grease gun with water and pressure testing with that.

 

[woody 73]

Found this on the web see if it helps you out:

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=6D2FD326CCC786856EF36D2FD326CCC786856EF3

 

[WhiskeyTangoFox]

Call around to any local cylinder shops. Like places that sell big nitrogen tanks and those kinds of places. They might hydrotest tanks there. I know the cylinder shop around where I live hydrotest tanks.

Sidenote : your regular ABC powder fire extinguisher has a working pressure of 125 psi. Those are Hydro tested at 585 psi.

 

[pendragon1998]

Thanks for sharing that vid, Woody. That compressor didn't even look *that* rusty. Personally, I've sort of decided on only buying a compressor new so I know the history of what I am using, for that very reason.

 

[wild cowboy]

The pump appears way to small for this size tank:

yes, that pump looks much smaller than what would have been original, but still, if the tank has been taken care of and is not rusty, you probably made out like a bandit - that motor alone is likely worth $200+

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

yes, that pump looks much smaller than what would have been original, but still, if the tank has been taken care of and is not rusty, you probably made out like a bandit - that motor alone is likely worth $200+

Probably should've thrown the seller an extra hundy.

 

[Screwtape]

Probably should've thrown the seller an extra hundy.

Come on...

 

[oldtools]

I prefer to buy used tools over new tools except for air compressor. My policy is not to buy used compressor. In order to use the compressor at 125 psi, I would hydro test (never air test) it to at least 175 psi, not 135 psi because error in test equipment can actually test it at lower than 125 psi. Also 10 psi difference is not a lot of margin. You should consult ASME pressure vessel code for what is the standard practice.

 

[ZRX61]

Doesn't look like a 100gal tank to me....

 

[jwest7788]

Hey, Just a follow up for everyone!

Pressure Tested, holds that pressure fine. I plan to sandblast and paint everything in the spring.

Thanks for your help everyone!

I have some technical questions about the relationship between motor HP and Pump HP ratings, but will open a new thread, because it's pretty unrelated to my fear of explosive failure. Haha

See you there!

 

[Professur]

You tested, or you had it tested?

 

[oldtools]

Hey, Just a follow up for everyone!

Pressure Tested, holds that pressure fine. I plan to sandblast and paint everything in the spring.

Thanks for your help everyone!

I have some technical questions about the relationship between motor HP and Pump HP ratings, but will open a new thread, because it's pretty unrelated to my fear of explosive failure. Haha

See you there!

What pressure was the tank tested at?

 

[RedF]

Looks like you've got it done, but for future reference:

I hydro test tanks on a regular basis. Biggest I've done is 40000 gallon (yes, you read that right).

If there are no obvious trouble spots, ultrasonic thickness testing is a safe bet. Compare the top to the bottom. There should be someone in Calgary willing to do it. I'd do it if I were a bit closer.

I would test to no less than 1.5X MAWP on that tank. Fill to the brim with water, then use a pressure washer to pressurize, using a pair of gauges for pressure, and a shutoff valve to close and disconnect the source once test pressure is achieved. Ideally you would have a relief valve set to +10% of test pressure. Hold for 10 minutes and inspect for pin-holes or malformations.

Proceed accordingly.

 

[jwest7788]

I hydro tested myself to ~250PSI (I didn't think to get a gauge that went high enough, gauge used capped out at 200PSI, but kept going at a rate that should have brought it to 260psi) held it at this pressure for 30 mins.

Working pressure will be 115PSI


I actually used a grease gun, which worked surprisingly well, being a grease gun and all.
I bought a new relief which is set to 135PSI. I really didn't trust the old one. (Never seen one that old, appeared to me the top pops off when the max pressure is hit.)

Just have to throw some Teflon wrap on a few leaky pipe joints and she should be good to go.

 

[RedF]

I hydro tested myself to ~250PSI (I didn't think to get a gauge that went high enough, gauge used capped out at 200PSI, but kept going at a rate that should have brought it to 260psi) held it at this pressure for 30 mins.

Working pressure will be 115PSI


I actually used a grease gun, which worked surprisingly well, being a grease gun and all.
I bought a new relief which is set to 135PSI. I really didn't trust the old one. (Never seen one that old, appeared to me the top pops off when the max pressure is hit.)

Just have to throw some Teflon wrap on a few leaky pipe joints and she should be good to go.

Sounds like you got it covered. Good job!