Pole barn interior - "framing" to hang sheetrock/osb

[scoob8000]

I'm no wheres near ready to start hanging sheetrock or osb yet, but I'm trying to plan out how I'm going to do it. Mainly to figure out how I'm running my electric, and how deep back to set my boxes.

It's typical pole barn construction. Posts 8ft apart with horizontal 2x4's on the outside every 2' for the exterior sheathing.

I originally had 3 ideas how to do this. Are there any other, cheaper or better ways?

A> Mimic what they did with the outside wall. Nail 2x4's to the posts horizontally every 2' to attach whatever wallboard to. This would result in a 8" thick wall though.

B> Same as A, but toe-nail the 2x4's between posts.

C> Frame up an actual wall between the posts. I think this would be the best, but most likely cost-prohibitive.



So far I'm leaning towards option A. If this is the case, would 1x3 furring strips suffice, or stick with actual studs?

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

I would only consider traditional framing for your application, especially with sheetrock. I think you will find the walls just to flimsy.

At about $3.00 a piece for a 2x4 or 2x6 stud, going tradition framing ought not be cost prohibitive. In my life I have cut corners in the past for monetary reasons and whenever it involved the building of something that I would be occupying for many years, I ultimately regretted it. Either spend the extra cash up front or wait until you can afford to do it correctly.

 

[61falcon]

I framed mine with 2x4's, insulated with R19 and hung 3/4 plywood painted white. walls are solid and if i damage a board I can unscrew it and hand a new one.

 

[bullnerd]

I am still working on mine, but maybe you can get some ideas, build in my sig.

Good luck.

 

[scoob8000]

I would only consider traditional framing for your application, especially with sheetrock. I think you will find the walls just to flimsy.

At about $3.00 a piece for a 2x4 or 2x6 stud, going tradition framing ought not be cost prohibitive. In my life I have cut corners in the past for monetary reasons and whenever it involved the building of something that I would be occupying for many years, I ultimately regretted it. Either spend the extra cash up front or wait until you can afford to do it correctly.

I'm also the guy that can't cut a piece of wood straight on a table saw. Measure twice, cut 3 times, and still too short. That's my motto.

I've got 12ft walls, so the studs are a bit more. Playing around with the calculators though, I'm suprised that going with a 16" oc wall between the posts is only 200-300 more for the whole thing.

I just seriously doubt my building skill to do this. What about wall flex with OSB vs sheetrock? OSB painted white was my original thought.

I am still working on mine, but maybe you can get some ideas, build in my sig.

I've actually been watching your build log. What you've done with the horizontal 2x4's inside the posts is what I was originally planning on doing.

I framed mine with 2x4's, insulated with R19 and hung 3/4 plywood painted white. walls are solid and if i damage a board I can unscrew it and hand a new one.

Did you use them horizontaly nailed to the posts or did you build an actualy 16" OC wall with them?

 

[cyamaha2007]

A traditional wall built on top of the slab seems common but i didnt like that since the floor floats and moves separate of the building. I went with girts running horizontally for interior walls. To stiffen up the wall you can attach spacers between the exterior and interior girts.

 

[PWC Repair]

It's a little late now but you could have gone with commercial/bookshelf girt walls instead. Then you've got studs for inner AND outer sheeting at the same time. This is how I'm building mine.

 

[scoob8000]

A traditional wall built on top of the slab seems common but i didnt like that since the floor floats and moves separate of the building. I went with girts running horizontally for interior walls. To stiffen up the wall you can attach spacers between the exterior and interior girts.

Just got done looking at your build, very nice! Did you just use 2x4 studs and nail them flat into the posts?

I'm pretty sure this is the route I'm going to go now. I'm not putting anything up yet, just using it to figure out where I'm mounting my outlets and how I'm running the wire.

My building is only 24' wide, I look at the additional 1.5" per wall I'll loose and worry about loosing 3" whole inches though. LOL

It's a little late now but you could have gone with commercial/bookshelf girt walls instead. Then you've got studs for inner AND outer sheeting at the same time. This is how I'm building mine.

Just did some reading on this. That really would have made a lot more sense to build that way. I bet these guys that built mine never even thought about doing it that way.

 

[astroracer]

I have to suggest building 2 x 4 stud walls in between the posts. Gives you space for bat style insulation and doesn't eat up interior space. I built the walls in my shop 30 years ago and have had no issues with the floating floor.
Doing the studs on 24" centers will hurt nothing as they don't support anything but what you hang on the walls.
Mark

 

[racerex]

I have to suggest building 2 x 4 stud walls in between the posts. Gives you space for bat style insulation and doesn't eat up interior space. I built the walls in my shop 30 years ago and have had no issues with the floating floor.
Doing the studs on 24" centers will hurt nothing as they don't support anything but what you hang on the walls.
Mark

That's what I'm doing on build....my builder called them interior wall units. I may add 2x2's so I can use R19.

 

[scoob8000]

Here I go with the cheap route again. I don't know why I always do this.

I'm definitely going with blown-in insulation in the attic, but strongly considered it for the walls too. With the wall thickness I can get very close to R-30 in the walls for half the price of fiberglass batts..

 

[scoob8000]

I shot my builder an email for his opinion and he suggested stud walls between the posts but going 24" OC too.

I priced out the lumber and it's right about the same as it would be to run horizontal girts, but probably actually a little stronger. Also give me more flexibility to mount my electrical boxes.

I'm thinking

PT 2x6x8 on the floor, 2x4x8 nailed to the header and 2x4x12's for the studs. I could bump the studs up to 2x6's for another $150ish for the whole project, but then I need to contend with the nails poking thru from the outside being in the way. Will 2x4's be sturdy enough, even if I have to block a bit between them?

 

[4AudiQ]

I am in your same boat, with a pole barn but no interior finish.

 

[scoob8000]

I am in your same boat, with a pole barn but no interior finish.

I'm going to pick up enough lumber to stud out one 8' "bay" and see how it turns out over the weekend.

It's 15 degrees now and too damn cold to do anything.

 

[scoob8000]

I have to suggest building 2 x 4 stud walls in between the posts. Gives you space for bat style insulation and doesn't eat up interior space. I built the walls in my shop 30 years ago and have had no issues with the floating floor.
Doing the studs on 24" centers will hurt nothing as they don't support anything but what you hang on the walls.

Well yesterday I framed out one bay like this. Those 2x4's are really wobbly (12 footers). Now I'm worried about the weight of the OSB causing them to sag or bow years down the road. :/

It's got me thinking about going back to running them horizontally like girts every 2'. I'm going to screw a couple in just to see how stable they are.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Did you add any blocking between the studs ?

 

[blakjak220]

Seems like if they are a little wobbly now, then once you add the OSB and it's also fastened to the "poles" then that would make the whole thing pretty rigid. I can't imagine that studs are going to sag once they have that panel attaching them all together. After of course you add some blocking horizontally in the middle.

 

[galute]

I used light weight metal studs to frame mine and they are very wobbly. But after insulation and 2 layers of 5/8 fire rated sheet rock they make for a very strong wall. I would hate to trip and bang my head into it. LOL.

 

[astroracer]

Like was stated, a little blocking and OSB screwed to the studs will stiffen it up. There is absolutely no need to be concerned with "sagging" as the studs are verticle, all of the load is verticle and there is no place for them to go once they are plated in. If you are at all concerned you can screw a couple of 2 x 8's to the tops of the outer wall girts, in between a couple of the studs, like blocking, and screw the studs to the 2 x 8's to keep them "tied" to the outer wall. Just a couple would do it so as not to interrupt your insulation too many times.
Mark

 

[jimp]

Have you considered steel siding. I did the OSB, Sheetrock and batt insulation with FRP on the bottom four feet. It looks good, but I later helped my BIL do his pole barn, we copied the pulins for the exteriour walls on the inside and used standard trim and siding, his looks a lot better than mine. Clean, bright and easy to clean. Wish I had used Steel.

We fasten the boxes on one of the purlins@ 4' in the valley on the siding (most of the time few missed and could not do a neat face plate) flush with the pulin. Nice neat finish on the boxes placed right. We also fill the wall cavity with batt insulation, R30.

Think about it, I wish I had.

 

[scoob8000]

I've changed my mind about 6 times now on how to do this.

I was originally going to blow in the walls, but adding blocking will make that a little more difficult.

Instead I think I'm going to continue to frame it with 2x4's, 24" OC, and use batt insulation. It'll end up being a little more expensive, but I can insulate and put the walls up as I can afford to.

Main goal now is to the the 2x4's in so I can run my wire and mount my electrical outlets.

 

[s_ontario]

I'm no wheres near ready to start hanging sheetrock or osb yet, but I'm trying to plan out how I'm going to do it. Mainly to figure out how I'm running my electric, and how deep back to set my boxes.

It's typical pole barn construction. Posts 8ft apart with horizontal 2x4's on the outside every 2' for the exterior sheathing.

I originally had 3 ideas how to do this. Are there any other, cheaper or better ways?

A> Mimic what they did with the outside wall. Nail 2x4's to the posts horizontally every 2' to attach whatever wallboard to. This would result in a 8" thick wall though.

B> Same as A, but toe-nail the 2x4's between posts.

C> Frame up an actual wall between the posts. I think this would be the best, but most likely cost-prohibitive.



So far I'm leaning towards option A. If this is the case, would 1x3 furring strips suffice, or stick with actual studs?

heres a idea
Mine has reverse board and batten on outside and will have steel inside
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/hamb/attach/jpg.gif