Need some help running my air supply.

[hanly2]

Ok so I have a picture here. I need to get my air from the compressor on the right to the reel that I want to mount near or on that pole far left. I also need to install the regulator and water separater that you see on top of the elec box. The way the hose reel mounts the air feed has to be on the left. Can you guys help me out maybe draw something up? I guess I also have to buy the pre cut and threaded pipe from HD making it even harder.

 

[NUISANCE]

I just ordered a Rapid Air master kit that came with 100ft of 1/2inch line. I can send you about 20-25ft of it for free as I don't need anywhere close to that much, just cover shipping. You would still need to order the fittings but you would have enough line to get you there. If you want that shoot me a PM.

Note- I offered this to him as a goodwill gesture so please don't start asking if he says no or otherwise.

 

[Beemer533]

I just ordered a Rapid Air master kit that came with 100ft of 1/2inch line. I can send you about 20-25ft of it for free as I don't need anywhere close to that much, just cover shipping. You would still need to order the fittings but you would have enough line to get you there. If you want that shoot me a PM.

Note- I offered this to him as a goodwill gesture so please don't start asking if he says no or otherwise.

Can I have it if he says no?

j/k... That is a nice offer.

The rapid line is nice and easy to work with, much easier than threading pipe..

 

[NUISANCE]

Can I have it if he says no?

j/k... That is a nice offer.

The rapid line is nice and easy to work with, much easier than threading pipe..

Just trying to pay it forward.

I am installing my kit now, purchased everything from Home Depot. When I bought the master kit I also picked up a bunch of extra straight, 90 and T fittings for this. If you want to wait until I am done with my install anything that is left over that came with the kit, including the cutter and unused fittings, I'll give to you for free including the hose you need. Any fittings that are left over that I bought that I didn't use I'll only charge you what they cost and return the rest.

I know this is coming from the person hooking you up with this stuff but I think you would be stupid to pass this deal up. I am just trying to help a fellow enthusiast by giving you a pretty good deal and paying it forward.

All of this is comes with a promise from you that you will use this stuff and not turn around and sell it for a profit, that is all I ask.

 

[Strouty]

Amazon has it on special with prime delivery for like $79 for the 100' 1/2" kit.

 

[bobbyu]

Amazon has it on special with prime delivery for like $79 for the 100' 1/2" kit.

This is the kit I got and it worked great. It does not come with any T fittings so it's best and cheapest to order them with the kit. Ordering them later will cost you a lot more.

 

[^&right]

hanly, HD should absolutely have a pipe cutter in the pipe section. Measure the lengths you need and have them cut and tread it for you. Unless you buy an 8' pipe and ask for it to be made into 8 one foot sections, they'll do it for you. It is a free service. I ran roughly 60' of 1/2" black pipe in my last shop and went in there with what I needed. They cut it all to length no problem.

Don't forget to have your unneeded pipe threaded at the other end, you'll never know when you'll need it!

 

[NUISANCE]

Amazon has it on special with prime delivery for like $79 for the 100' 1/2" kit.

This is true but that kit comes with only 4 straight fittings, 2 90s and 3 splitter blocks for connections. It's the same kit I got from HD for the same price with shipping but he would end up like I did with way too much tubing and most likely short on fittings. With what I am willing to give he would need to buy a couple fittings and pay shipping but the decision is up to him.

 

[WILD-BILL]

The way the hose reel mounts the air feed has to be on the left.

Unless it's a gravity catch mount it with the roller fairlead at the bottom. I have one (Harbor Freight model) mounted that way and it works just fine.

 

[hanly2]

You mounted it the other way? Did you rotate the arm or just mounted upside down right out of the box? Thank you Nuisance, I am trying to figure out what way I want to go. I need to compare the price and ease of installation and make a decision.

 

[CNGsaves]

Take the freebies from great Pay It Forward offer of fellow GJer !! That's what awesome about GJ - - helping out another guy.

His leftovers would be great for your little setup and would teach you how to put together your own airline system.

Later in life, you may upgrade the entire garage and go will full blown black pipe steel or copper airline system. At that point, Pay It Forward again and pass on your RapidAir hand-me-downs to another GJer or young guy starting out with nothing.

 

[hanly2]

This is true but that kit comes with only 4 straight fittings, 2 90s and 3 splitter blocks for connections. It's the same kit I got from HD for the same price with shipping but he would end up like I did with way too much tubing and most likely short on fittings. With what I am willing to give he would need to buy a couple fittings and pay shipping but the decision is up to him.

So that kit does come with everything in the picture? Even though it says it doesnt come with any fittings? My compressor is 175psi, so I would need to install the regulator before the kit right? If I were to install the regulator and the water separator right out of the tank would that work or is it better to have that installed further down the line like right before my reel?

 

[WILD-BILL]

Just took it out of the box, and mounted it it upside down. No modification at all.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Whichever way you decide to handle this let me point out a few things that no one else has mentioned-

I wouldn't use 1/2" pipe. Use at least 3/4" to get to the reel then use 1/2" to "drop" to the reel. Down the road I'm sure you'll be adding more drops- which means a 3/4" "loop" and the individual drops.

Another thing- don't hard pipe your compressor. Connect the compressor to the 3/4" line with a 3/4" hydraulic line/hose. This isolates the compressor from the airline.

And lastly, plumb the intakes on the cylinders to the exterior of the building and use a Solberg Filter/Silencer- your ears will thank you for it!

 

[SeattleKent]

I used black iron pipe from Home Depot. I followed the TP Tools suggestions of a main line with drop lines. Here is there plan. I have been super happy with the results. I never get any water in the lines. My FIL did a system like WILD-BILL. Spray air for a few minutes and water starts coming out. (Bill - didn't mean to bash your work - just looks kind of like my FIL's system.)

+1 to all of K'ledgeBldr's suggestions. Get the hydraulic hose at a "Parker Store". They can make one up in couple of hours for a reasonable price.

 

[WILD-BILL]

No, problem. I get it. That pic was taken prior to me finishing the system. I plan on adding drip legs and blow out valves to each drop but money ran out. Things are looking up with the new job though so I hope to finish it right soon.

But, in the FWIW column, I have yet to any sign of water out of either hose.

 

[RickP]

That pay it forward offer is awesome! And it would probably be perfect for you. You can use a whip hose to connect the compressor to the regulator, and then use the RapidAir system downstream.

I love my new RapidAir kit for a quick beginner installation. I'm planning a full black pipe install for later, but that's going to be a couple years from now at the rate I'm going.

 

[hanly2]

It was a nice gesture, I already bought the kit, just waiting till after Christmas to install it. It's going to be awesome. lol

 

[hanly2]

Bill what regulators/water filters are you running? They look like the HF ones.

 

[NUISANCE]

I didn't see the question you wrote on 11/24, sorry about that. Since your reel is so close to the compressor I would just put the regulator and separator at the tank like I did. If your reel was further from the compressor I would do it differently but I don't think that is needed in your case.

You won't be disappointed after the install, I'm not. I would map it out prior to install to make sure you have enough connections as you might need more that are supplied in the kit but your set up looks pretty straight forward. I ended up needing 2 more 90 degree fittings than were in the kit so I ordered more prior to install as I wasn't sure how I was going to run my lines.

The one thing you will for sure need is clamps to hold the line as there are none in the kit, these are the ones I used http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...ack-PPC-1550UVB/100175900?keyword=ppc-1550uvb They come in a pack of 12 for like 2 bucks, worked perfect.

I did get a PM from someone but not you and since I can't post in the classified section I am taking the extra stuff back to HD today and going to exchange the fittings for some saw blades that I need to start making my bathroom vanity. You shouldn't need any help with the install as it's pretty straight forward but if you have any questions shoot me a PM

 

[WILD-BILL]

They are the HF freight ones. I'm not real happy with them either. They leak from alomst every where and while I've managed to get most of it sealed up, there are some cracks in the bottom of the little plastic bowls right around where the drain is fixed to it.

The reg over the drill press is not near as bad as the one to the right of the tool box but both will leak down the entire system if I leave the valves open and leave the garage.

I've gotten around this by getting into the habbit of leaving the valves closed unless I'm actually using them on a project.

I'll turn on the compressor, and open both the valves at each reg when I start working. Then, at the end of the day, I close the valves and turn off the comp.

But the reg's were cheap and get me set up and running untill I can afford to get some decent ones and opening and closing the valves has gotten to be second nature and is not a big deal. Probably a good habit to be in now that I think about it.

 

[hanly2]

Another thing- don't hard pipe your compressor. Connect the compressor to the 3/4" line with a 3/4" hydraulic line/hose. This isolates the compressor from the airline.

The only lead in hoses I can find are only 1/4" mnpt. I can't seem to find one with 3/8" to match the rest of the system. I don't want to restrict flow too much right out of the compressor.

 

[CNGsaves]

The only lead in hoses I can find are only 1/4" mnpt. I can't seem to find one with 3/8" to match the rest of the system. I don't want to restrict flow too much right out of the compressor.

You're still thinking TOO SMALL !!!

Below is perfect solution for vibration isolation . . . it's $25 hydraulic hose from Tractor Supply with 3/4" size and 3 ft length. This monster will cover your LIFETIME needs for connecting big compressor to airline system. Purchase brass fittings to handle the size changes.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hydraulic-hose-assembly-3-4-in-x-36-in

 

[NUTTSGT]

Yep, TSC or similar farm store for a hydraulic hose. Depending how you plumb it up, you might need to get a swivel fitting also.

If you're hard plumbing, I took a chance and bought the manual HF pipe threader using a 20% coupon. I had a pipe vise from a swap meet. It took some time but I could do it in my garage and not have to worry about measuring correctly and making a second trip to HD or the hardware store.

 

[WILD-BILL]

You're still thinking TOO SMALL !!!

Below is perfect solution for vibration isolation . . . it's $25 hydraulic hose from Tractor Supply with 3/4" size and 3 ft length. This monster will cover your LIFETIME needs for connecting big compressor to airline system. Purchase brass fittings to handle the size changes.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hydraulic-hose-assembly-3-4-in-x-36-in

This is also what I used to conneect my compressor to the system.

 

[dave67fd]

Here's how I installed my reel. Used quick connect fittings and 3/8" nylon11.

 

[Shootingblanks]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174658

 

[Shootingblanks]

 

[sberry]

I am not sure why the fascination with 3/4 pipe? I spose its great if a guy will hook a 25 hp comp on down the road.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Here's how I installed my reel. Used quick connect fittings and 3/8" nylon11.

Dave, did you consider putting a ****** on the bottom of that "Tee" and a ball valve to create a drain ?

 

[fj5gtx]

I've done a couple shops. Never a moisture problem when I use the layout mentioned by Sharpe (tap off the top of a main trunk that drains on its own).

I only use air handlers, which are regulators with a huge steel water trap. My main trunks are always min 25 feet. I use 3/4" black pipe for the main line.

+1 on the flex hose from compressor to main trunk, I bought one from tptools that has an abrasion steel protection sleeve.

I always set the compressor on anti-vibration pads as well.... those can be had on eBay.

http://sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout

Attached is a pic of my compressor, you can see the flex line.

 

[sberry]

There is some difference in shops. A compo like he one above is ported for a large line and the owner may actually have some use for it with a heavy impact on occasion and its easy and practical for him. All the big lines and extra fittings are a minor issue.
Same for the TP layout.
A half baked air system can work quite well and line sizing is not very important to performance in the home or small garage. But no sense in putting a 400$ Puma comp on an 800 line to blow up a tire or run an impact. I got a lifelong mechanic bud that put a 3/8 reg on the comp and ran a 50 ft hose to it, wasn't very glamorous but it worked.
I remember buying a 5 hp comp used for 400 at the time, he ran it a lot and had only but a minor problem for 30 yrs.
The home user doesn't need all the **** especially to start in many cases. I am all for a piece of 1/2 pipe or 2 to get a grip on a manifold but the constant encouragement to go up a couple sizes is not really as helpful as one might think.

 

[sberry]

I hate to see a guy save for something then have to wait 2 more paychecks to use it cause he has to buy another trunk full of parts. The main reason for the use of hyd hose is that its cheap and fits steel pipe ready made, a swivel can be had cheap. When things are cheap its way easier to do them right for more people and doesn't leave a lot of money on the sideline. Even the TP schematic mentions it in regards to "waste of resources"
After 38 yrs have learned how much it really takes and that the edge here isn't the same as in a stock car race or professional golfer. It cost too much, takes too long and looking back can see where others were at 80% it was adequate.
I remember when I was a kid had to worry and run inch to do a 3/4 or in many cases a 1/2 job. The same in another thread about water line to a garage, the original question was a 1/2 to 3/4 and 3/4 is adequate but soon we are headed for inch and is there ever going to be a benefit to being able to drop the system pressure in the host this rapidly? How much well or does this go over city service are issues but if its 200$ might not get done if we leave the OP with the impression that a PE black water pipe can be had for 20 a roll isn't just fine.

 

[sberry]

There are a few places most could agree the code minmums are not ideal but in the sweet spots they are not lacking, even with added equipment are still adequate and its not how many outlets are on but how much you use and does it matter if there was a little pressure drop for flushing or and washing? Some circuit resistance is needed when filling a bucket to keep other system pressure usable.
With air circuits in these garages this is almost moot, any one user can use all the capacity of the unit, system pressure will drop, via 3/8 hose or 3/4 pipe.

 

[Lotek]

Two pages and no one's mentioned pvc? This place is slipping.

 

[hanly2]

I think the tank is ported 1/2 so im going to run 1/2 hyd hose to my rapidair system that is 3/8.

 

[imjustdave]

I am not sure why the fascination with 3/4 pipe? I spose its great if a guy will hook a 25 hp comp on down the road.

Some applications need big VOLUME of air... whats the point of having a 60 gallon compressor but only having 3/8 line or 1/2 inch line. Use a 1 inch impact guns that take a 3/4 to 1 inch line... with a 1/2 supply line and see how far you get. Honestly after I build my side storage area and move my compressor I plan on running at least a 1 inch line from my compressor to the garage.

Air is just like power, the further the run and or load the bigger the line or cable needs to be. Run a hot tub heater on 14 gauge wire and tell me how that works out.


I do agree if your just using it to fill tires, or run a finish nailer it wont really matter.

 

[dave67fd]

Dave, did you consider putting a ****** on the bottom of that "Tee" and a ball valve to create a drain ?

Thanks Eric, I have. The system we did at work has them. We reduced down to 1/4" just cause we had a bunch of them. One of those little things I havent got to yet.
I'll probably spend the time and money on a desicant filter first for the main supply. My next needed expense. Little to no moisture unless I'm pulling alot of air.

 

[dave67fd]

I am not sure why the fascination with 3/4 pipe? I spose its great if a guy will hook a 25 hp comp on down the road.

I did it just because I could. Have all the threading equipment at work but after doing a few pieces realized HD does it free. Could have done it at home but didn't want to transport/wrestle the auto threader home. Plus it's a tough system, looks good and helps a bit with capacity.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Exactly. Just as easily could have used 1/2" if you don't want to mess with larger 3/4" . . . . so you save a few bucks for 1/2" at $16

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hydraulic-hose-1-2-in-2-wire-36-in-l