1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap (EcoBoosted)

[Uncle_Charlie]

I learned how to drive on a 66 F100. Fond memories for me, not so much my dad. Anyhow, I imagine the 66 is signifcantly heavier than the modern F150. Have you calculated the impact of the heavier frame and body on payload and towing capacities? Just a thought...

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I learned how to drive on a 66 F100. Fond memories for me, not so much my dad. Anyhow, I imagine the 66 is signifcantly heavier than the modern F150. Have you calculated the impact of the heavier frame and body on payload and towing capacities? Just a thought...

Some good questions!

The 427 truck estimated weight is around 3550 lbs

The 1966 EcoBoost truck even though I call it a F100 is in fact a F250
Only real difference between a 1966 F100 & F250 in weight is the size of brakes and rear axle. Frames are identical. Diff spring package too.

The interesting thing about the 2011 F150 & the 1966 F250 is they both have exact same GVWR of 7050 lbs

That is one of main reasons I went with a 1966 F250 vs a F100. Seeing as though it will be titled as a 1966 F250 I will be able to use the weight and approx tow ratings of the F150

A 1966 F250 loaded up and a boat anchor 460 with air conditioning and power steering, heavy wheels weighs 4653 lbs

So estimated weight of my 1966 F250 stock is around 4300lbs

A guess on weight of the completed EcoBoost is around 5000lbs

Load capacity of 2050 and towing capacity around 9000 lbs

See weight of the 460 powered F250 and my 2002 F250 4x2 which is a whopping 7000 lbs

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I base the weight of the completed truck using a new Regular Cab Long bed 2015 which has aluminum body. GVW is 4419 lbs add 600 tops to that for a steel body.....

If there was a computer and wiring avail to transplant a 3.5 EcoBoost into a early vehicle it would have been major weight savings.

A interesting thing is a 3.5 ecoboost with 6R80 transmission will weigh about the same as the 427 Big BLock & C6 in my 1966 F100

Big weight gains for the ecoboost truck are the wiring, frame, floor pan and dash & seats. At any rate the ecoboost project truck should be completed with an approx 1000 lb weight savings over the truck the 3.5 came out of.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

So today thought I would get serious in trying to get the EcoBoost project cab mounted.

About the time I get started the new 4 post hoist shows up . .

I figured that would kill some time. Start to unpack and lay things out.

Partially together stand up one of the posts and it looks very tall!

Of course the sales person was here prior assuring me it would fit under a 8' door. The post is 96.5" and the door opening is 96" and that does not account for the plate and end of cable that sticks up nor does it count for the caster in order for me to move the 2450lb hoist.

The company does not take returns. Its 3500.00 out the window . . .

So much for getting much done on eco project other than getting dash kinda in place only to realize it needs to go forward 7" from current position in order to mate up with firewall . . . Simply not going to happen.

Dig a ditch and bury both projects together?

Ever have a day like that?

 

[bulletpruf]

So today thought I would get serious in trying to get the EcoBoost project cab mounted.

About the time I get started the new 4 post hoist shows up . .

I figured that would kill some time. Start to unpack and lay things out.

Partially together stand up one of the posts and it looks very tall!

Of course the sales person was here prior assuring me it would fit under a 8' door. The post is 96.5" and the door opening is 96" and that does not account for the plate and end of cable that sticks up nor does it count for the caster in order for me to move the 2450lb hoist.

The company does not take returns. Its 3500.00 out the window . . .

So much for getting much done on eco project other than getting dash kinda in place only to realize it needs to go forward 7" from current position in order to mate up with firewall . . . Simply not going to happen.

Dig a ditch and bury both projects together?

Ever have a day like that?

Take a deep breath...now exhale...now go find the salesman and strangle that no good SOB!

Just kidding.

There have to be about 10 different ways to get that lift into the garage, and only two or three involve dynamite...

Can't you lay it down, get it inside, and then lift it up? It's just the door that you're worried about, right?

Take an inch or so out of the door frame?

Grind an inch or two out of the concrete?

"Clearance" your brand new lift a bit with a grinder?

Combination of all the above?

Pay someone who does this for a living a few hundred $$$ to get it inside while you enjoy a cold beverage in the A/C?

Scott

 

[paigej]

I can totally take it off your hands! I'm right down here in Tucson, I'll be there in the morning

 

[7thDimension]

So today thought I would get serious in trying to get the EcoBoost project cab mounted.

About the time I get started the new 4 post hoist shows up . .

I figured that would kill some time. Start to unpack and lay things out.

Partially together stand up one of the posts and it looks very tall!

Of course the sales person was here prior assuring me it would fit under a 8' door. The post is 96.5" and the door opening is 96" and that does not account for the plate and end of cable that sticks up nor does it count for the caster in order for me to move the 2450lb hoist.

The company does not take returns. Its 3500.00 out the window . . .

So much for getting much done on eco project other than getting dash kinda in place only to realize it needs to go forward 7" from current position in order to mate up with firewall . . . Simply not going to happen.

Dig a ditch and bury both projects together?

Ever have a day like that?

Raise the header above the door 3 inches?

 

[MP&C]

I'd say time for the salesman to make good on his assurance of fit. Whether that is modifying height of columns or door height, either should be on his dime or he should take it back..

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Take a deep breath...now exhale...now go find the salesman and strangle that no good SOB!

Just kidding.

There have to be about 10 different ways to get that lift into the garage, and only two or three involve dynamite...

Can't you lay it down, get it inside, and then lift it up? It's just the door that you're worried about, right?

Take an inch or so out of the door frame?

Grind an inch or two out of the concrete?

"Clearance" your brand new lift a bit with a grinder?

Combination of all the above?

Pay someone who does this for a living a few hundred $$$ to get it inside while you enjoy a cold beverage in the A/C?

Scott

I can totally take it off your hands! I'm right down here in Tucson, I'll be there in the morning

Raise the header above the door 3 inches?

I'd say time for the salesman to make good on his assurance of fit. Whether that is modifying height of columns or door height, either should be on his dime or he should take it back..

I tried but not worth the fight trying to get them to take it back.

I need a minimum of 4"

Door height is 96" + or _ 1/4" depending on where you measure.

Height of posts are 96.5" and that does not account for the cap on top and nut and cable sticking out or the casters which I need to roll it in and out.

Deal from the get-go was I needed to be able to push it in and out of shop.
Really struggled on the 427 project header build. needed something inside of shop. Would fit in shop once there but shop too cramped to leave it there unless in use.

I just marked off the posts and whacked 5" off the top, anyone know a good way to shorten 1/2" cables? LOL

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I spent about 30 min getting saw to cut straight. You can tell by pics they were spot on!

Depending on how high I raise it on casters the 5" cut should give me enough clearance to get it to fit in shop.

After that fiasco I thought I would make a serious attempt to finally get the cab mounted on eco chassis.

First up was the dash. I had it kinda in place when I first took the eco truck apart 2 1/2 yrs ago.

Now only to find it needs to go forward 7" in order to be able to fit behind seat and to get the HVAC to work along with column to reach steering rack.

Dash looks cool sitting in there but only 22" from steering wheel to back of cab!

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I can only get help a few hours per week so this is the tough part. This stuff just weighs too much to handle on my own.

Just do not have the energy to make a entire new dash using all the Eco electronics.
I am not much of a designer (ok, not worth a **** at design) and no vision right now what it should look like using all the stock Eco stuff. Its gotta all be there in order for truck to start.

I did drag the Eco cab inside to see if it would help me figure out by measurements and eyeball exactly where to go from here.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

My iphone 5 is on its way out. Getting very blurry pics. Ordered new on over 5 weeks ago still not in.

Maybe these pics will show the world of hurt I am in trying to get the dash in.

 

[gasgas17]

Move the seat back by building a bump out pan under the rear window that would protrude into the box area. This would let the seat go back say another 4 inches or so. Then just pull the front of the box back on the 1/4 panels. I'm pretty sure I have seen that on another truck project here on the forum.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Wow. This might very well be one of the most in-depth projects I've ever seen. Very inspiring.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Move the seat back by building a bump out pan under the rear window that would protrude into the box area. This would let the seat go back say another 4 inches or so. Then just pull the front of the box back on the 1/4 panels. I'm pretty sure I have seen that on another truck project here on the forum.

Seat hits at rear window. Where do I find a rear glass with a 4" buldge in it?

Really, Only chance I have is to move dash forward.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I can totally take it off your hands! I'm right down here in Tucson, I'll be there in the morning

What time will you be here in morning to pick it up?

 

[efoster01]

Subscribed. Awesome thread. I just read it all tonight.

 

[welder4956]

Extend the back of the cab 4"?

 

[Wanna Ride]

Extend the back of the cab 4"?

He's already repeatedly stated that's not a viable option.

 

[paigej]

What time will you be here in morning to pick it up?

Now that it's shorter, looks like it should work fine! Good luck with the rest of the build. I think maybe you just need to make the top of the dash more shallow. You are using the eco floorpan and firewall, correct?

 

[BBChevro]

I just discovered this thread today and started reading it from the start - but I can't see the photos for most of it, just red "X"s.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I just discovered this thread today and started reading it from the start - but I can't see the photos for most of it, just red "X"s.

I was having major issues with my photo bucket. When I would upload new photos it would scramble all names of photos already in album making them disappear.

If the photo number shows in the scrambled name I can restore them.

I was just working on that and got to approx post 396.

Its hard to tell which pic was there without a photo number.

It would be far easier to just post them at end of the thread.
Its taking far too long to read each post and figure out which number picture was used. I have over 150,000 photo's on my computer

 

[Sford56]

For the steering column, I don't think you could get it with the column shifter like you have, but you might look at swapping in a telescoping column from another 2011 to get a few inches back...not sure how much it would give over the fixed column, and it would require a floor shift console, but might be worth looking at.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

For the steering column, I don't think you could get it with the column shifter like you have, but you might look at swapping in a telescoping column from another 2011 to get a few inches back...not sure how much it would give over the fixed column, and it would require a floor shift console, but might be worth looking at.

As far as i know the telescoping column did not happen until 2015 models
It does have a tilt column.

A Console shift is just not going to happen for a number of reasons.

1) I need to be able to haul 3 people

2) The cost of switching to a console and different seating would most likely exceed the cost of what I paid for entire ecoboost truck

3) The truck will simply not run without original column & configuration.

4) It may not seem like a budget build to some but it really is, hoping to build this entire truck for less than it would cost to restore a stock 352 truck.

5) Still working on a solution, as I have said from the beginning I will do my best to make this work but still now quite sure I will be able to. A lot of snags to work out.

6) I have another ecoboost truck here to take measurements etc from to see what is feasible to do.

Its quite obvious the entire dash will have to be moved forward a bit to get it to work

 

[BBChevro]

I can now see the photos, so I'll have to go back and see what I missed - that fire engine (F600?) looks great by the way.

Because I couldn't see the pics, I tended to skim through the thread - so this may have already been suggested...

Would it be possible to modify the top section of the firewall to create a pocket to bring the dash components forward (and down a bit at the front if need be) - keeping it all under the stock-appearing hood?

Great project.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Now that it's shorter, looks like it should work fine! Good luck with the rest of the build. I think maybe you just need to make the top of the dash more shallow. You are using the eco floorpan and firewall, correct?

A lot of items had to be shortened on the hoist. Cables were a real picnic.
Seller of hoist wanted 600.00 to fix the cable issue (150.00) each plus shipping and a 2 wk wait time!

I drove down to a cable rigging place in town to have them shortened the 5" I shortened the posts and of course they cut one of my cables too short!

The shop manager took another length of cable from stock & a new end.
The pressed (crimped ) the ends on.

Total cost out the door for one new cable, and new ends. Guess how much that cost me?

Yes, I am using the Eco floor pan and firewall (quiet steel) problem is My cab because I have dropped it down over frame is approx 5" too low already to mate with the Eco floor & firewall (heating plenum issue)

Have a bunch of other fitment issues also. Not looking good to make this work.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

The car my daughter drives was rear ended a month ago and State Farm insurance simply does not want to give a fair price for the total loss. So I have been spending a lot of time trying to get that resolved. Unreal what they get away with.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

I can now see the photos, so I'll have to go back and see what I missed - that fire engine (F600?) looks great by the way.

Because I couldn't see the pics, I tended to skim through the thread - so this may have already been suggested...

Would it be possible to modify the top section of the firewall to create a pocket to bring the dash components forward (and down a bit at the front if need be) - keeping it all under the stock-appearing hood?

Great project.

Yes, 1966 F600. 5700 original miles.
I will have more info on the cab~firewall fit shortly. Have been dealing with SF insurance for 30 days. See my last post.

I will be trying to restore some of the lost photo's so keep checking back.

Because names were scrambled when uploaded I am having hard time getting proper ones to make sense with wording. Will fix as time allows.

 

[Sford56]

As far as i know the telescoping column did not happen until 2015 models
It does have a tilt column.

Completely understand your reasons...but just to clarify, there was both a manual telescoping, and power telescoping column available in 2011 on the higher end trucks. Also, to make it start, you would just need to swap the key cylinder / Switch assembly to the new column. All the electronics for the PATS key are contained within that. Of course, none of that helps with the console shift or cost issues.

Again, not pushing it, I just want to make sure the correct information is out there...just in case

I'm just glad you're still going on this...one of the coolest builds I've seen, and have been watching it for a long time.

Link to 2011 brochure...no page numbers, but just search for "telescop"
https://www.legacydirect.com/brochures/2011_ford_f150.pdf

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Completely understand your reasons...but just to clarify, there was both a manual telescoping, and power telescoping column available in 2011 on the higher end trucks. Also, to make it start, you would just need to swap the key cylinder / Switch assembly to the new column. All the electronics for the PATS key are contained within that. Of course, none of that helps with the console shift or cost issues.

Again, not pushing it, I just want to make sure the correct information is out there...just in case

I'm just glad you're still going on this...one of the coolest builds I've seen, and have been watching it for a long time.

Link to 2011 brochure...no page numbers, but just search for "telescop"
https://www.legacydirect.com/brochures/2011_ford_f150.pdf

I see that now but not on column shift

NEW POWER-TILT/
TELESCOPING STEERING
COLUMN includes a
memory feature that allows
2 different drivers to store
their unique settings and
recall them in an instant.
Standard on KING RANCH,®
PLATINUM, the new
LARIAT LIMITED, and Ford
Harley-DavidsonTM F-150.

I just do not have the funds to do the swap, parts are at a premium in this area. That is if you can find one. There is also the wiring differences that would not be avail best I can tell.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Did find the manual telescoping wheel in the Fx2 & Fx4. Be neat to have but again dont think possible with a column shift

INTERIOR
110-volt power inverter
Auto-dimming rearview mirror
Black leather-wrapped steering wheel
Black rubber off-road floor mats (FX4)
Color-coordinated carpeted floor mats (FX2)
Ford SYNC® voice-activated, in-vehicle connectivity system
Manually telescoping steering column
Message center with 4.2-in. LCD screen and trip computer
Rear-window defroster
Sirius Satellite Radio with introductory 6-month subscription
Steering wheel-mounted SYNC and audio controls

I guess If it comes to that I could find floor shift no console just use current 40-20-40 seating.

A lot of other things not fitting like I had hoped. Not looking to feasible right now.

Long story short I have a EcoBoost truck here for a few days now to take measurements etc from. Its a XLT Column Shift also.

I can make it so there is more room than a stock '66 which is unreal of how skinny people must have been back then.

Pics in a bit uploading: : : :

 

[TimeWarpF100]

For comparison purposes I checked a original '66 F100.

Its only 11.5" from lower portion of wheel to seat and 5.5" from seat to bottom of wheel.

On my 2002 F250 diesel the steering wheel is 18" in the position I drive in.
In seat position where my daughter drives is 16.5"

Seeing as though The project truck will have a tilt wheel and adjustable pedals I can probably at least drive it. Still have to get floor into place and seat in to check distance.

May not be ideal but if its more than a stock '66 . . . . .

 

[gasgas17]

Another idea that may help is tipping the dash up some to raise the steering wheel some. Try placing a nut between the bottom edge of the dash mount and the truck body. Newer vehicle are more laid back in seating position where older vehicles are more of an upright seating position. Will the air bags be removed or operational? Obviously don't want to sit too close to an airbag. What are you using for a seat? Is the 66 seat smaller? Maybe some E-series van parts would be useful. Think steering column angle.

 

[filtered]

What about replacing the steering wheel with a smaller aftermarket wheel, like a Grant?

 

[Wanna Ride]

Total cost out the door for one new cable, and new ends. Guess how much that cost me?

I never saw where you listed the cost - how much for the new cable... $50?

 

[54stude]

Seat hits at rear window. Where do I find a rear glass with a 4" buldge in it?



Really, Only chance I have is to move dash forward.

Actually, there could be one option. A vacuum formed polycarbonate rear window could be made be a vacuum forming company, much the same way as a helicopter crane pilots window or dome for air hockey table is made. If more room in just the window area would actually help this could be an option?

 

[TimeWarpF100]

;Major Major setback.

I had never had the floor and dash in at same time. It will flat out not fit!

Zero Leg room.

The only way to solve this is to build a entire new dash.

I could probably build it but I am horrible at design . . So much stuff inside the dash that has to be there not sure where it would all fit.

Finally got my 4 post hoist together so a bit more later this eve
Another fiasco that is now solved

 

[saceone]

Re: 1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap & 1966 427 Project

In French we say Une chose à la fois.. Which roughly translates to one thing at a time. Keep on kicking asses and I'm sure you will find a way to solve your cab /dash problem

 

[Notgrownup]

Re: 1966 F100 EcoBoost Engine Swap & 1966 427 Project

In French we say Une chose à la fois.. Which roughly translates to one thing at a time. Keep on kicking asses and I'm sure you will find a way to solve your cab /dash problem

Ou si ca fitte pas grab un Marteau pi fait le fitter....Translates...If it doesn't fit, grab a hammer and bang the **** out of it until it dies....

Seriously though, back away from it until you can figure it out, there is always a way....don't get frustrated.....

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Another idea that may help is tipping the dash up some to raise the steering wheel some. Try placing a nut between the bottom edge of the dash mount and the truck body. Newer vehicle are more laid back in seating position where older vehicles are more of an upright seating position. Will the air bags be removed or operational? Obviously don't want to sit too close to an airbag. What are you using for a seat? Is the 66 seat smaller? Maybe some E-series van parts would be useful. Think steering column angle.

The Idea of tipping the dash to get wheel up will for sure help. Moving it forward and tipping it up or making a complete new dash only viable option.

Problem is even with two people its a struggle to move the dash it is so heavy and clumsy! I had help for a couple hours last night but it will probably not be until friday or saturday before I can get help again. (of course for every minute I get help I have to pay for it)

Of course when I started this project I did have paid help but they moved away after my health failed. Would never have attempted it on my own had I known.

What about replacing the steering wheel with a smaller aftermarket wheel, like a Grant?

Not a feasible option. Major controls are in steering wheel.

I never saw where you listed the cost - how much for the new cable... $50?

Well, The hoist sales~installer told me 600.00 to have cables made up. He told me there was nobody in town that could do it because of liability issues and he had tried. I went to the smart phone and asked siri__ Cable rigging places in phoenix. 1st one that popped up I called them, told them what I was doing they said yes they could shorten my cables. Never asked a price.

When I got there I told them I needed the cables shortened exactly 5".

A bit of confusion with one employee telling another what needed done.
He took out cutters but did not allow for the end so cable was now 1.5" too short!

Here I am thinking of 150.00 per cable as I was quoted to fix.

Said employee got shop supervisor involved and he simply walked over to a large reel of cable, cut off a piece and gave the help the cable another threaded end. Crimp on type.

Total bill ended up $13.48! So instead of listening to the "Installer" and doing it on my own it saved me the full 600.00 (shipping cost add'l on new cable)

So no doubt a shout out for Arizona Wire Rope & Rigging, Inc

A pic of the machine used to swedge/crimp the ends of my cable. And a very large link. Prob 7' tall. Number I heard that does the crimp is like 300 ton!