Opinions on Rustoleum paint

[sleepy127]

I am thinking of getting this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-1-qt-Gloss-Royal-Blue-Protective-Enamel-Paint-2-Pack-7727502/202058549?quantity=1&str_nbr=6526 to paint my Lathe Bench when I am through and maybe later on paint my 3 vidmars and altec box. Just wondering what your experiences with it are. I am planning thinning it with the 15% acetone as recommended and spraying it on with my purple harbor freight gun. How smooth should it turn out as long as I use the right distance from the work and the proper pressure? Will it need a lot of work to give it a professional look (wet sanding / buffing) like spray cans do or should it dry fairly smooth. Not wanting to spend a bunch of money on paint.

Thanks

 

[IOWNJUNK]

I spray trailers with rustoleum, might wanna thin it a little more. I do 50/50 with acetone. Get the hardener too, it dries a little faster. Expect a week to dry this time of year.

Even brushed or rolled on, rustoleum usually comes out smooth and glossy. Once cured (several weeks) it can take a beating.

 

[zkling]

It works great for machinery, boxes and the like......for the price. I've painted lots of stuff with it. Downside is that shop chemicals take it off pretty easily, even when cured.

 

[dogdas]

Personally I wouldn't buy anything from the paint department at Home Depot. Go to a Sherwin Williams store and tell them exactly what you have and how to prep and paint it. Paint pros only know paint, not wall paper not toilets not lumber but only paint.

Make sure you also go to a Sherwin Williams Commercial store, there is a difference.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

....Get the hardener too....

There's hardner sold for Rustoleum? Where do you get it? I've never seen it at Home Depot or a regular hardware store.

 

[slip knot]

I've given up on Rustoleum paint other than in the spraycans. The last few projects I used rustoleum on turned out really crappy. If you want to wait a week or so for the paint to harden it may be OK for you. Cutting it with acetone does help some.

 

[mikegt4]

I have had half way decent results (half way, not all the way) with spraying from the Qt. cans such as you linked to. I try to stay with the "Professional" grade stuff. Usually my biggest problem is lack of adhesion between the primer and paint over time; ie, it chips easily.

In contrast to slipknot, I have completely given up on Rustoleum from spray cans, I usually get to use about 20% of the can before it clogs up to the point that it is unusable.

I agree with dogdas, a commercial paint store has better products and certainly a more knowledgeable staff.

 

[IOWNJUNK]

There's hardner sold for Rustoleum? Where do you get it? I've never seen it at Home Depot or a regular hardware store.

Seen it at Lowes, but I've only bought the stuff at Tractor Supply. Comes in a small can, 4oz maybe, costs almost as much as the paint.

Edit. Implement paint from tractor supply is the same as rustoleum, or close. More colors and cheaper. I catch it on sale for $14.99/gal once in a while.

 

[CT2012]

The stuff works great. Prep is key.

I've painted exterior metal with ridiculously expensive Benjamin Moore metal paints from the best paint shop around, and I've painted with plain ol' oil-based Rustoleum enamel (which itself isn't exactly inexpensive). In my experience, there is no difference, and if you need oil-based enamel at 9 pm on a Saturday and your local Lowes or HD is open but your pro paint shop is not, then presto, Rustoleum it is.

By the way, various BM products and Rustoleum product in gloss white will turn yellowish eventually. BM alkyd (as well as Impervo latex, which I usually use indoors) has, in my opinion, gone south in their formulation in the past several years. It lasts for ****, indoors and out. The interior latex goes grey and dull waaaaay too fast.

So, ask 10 people that same question and you'll get 10 different answers, but that's my answer and I'm sticking to it, as it were.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Seen it at Lowes, but I've only bought the stuff at Tractor Supply. Comes in a small can, 4oz maybe, costs almost as much as the paint.

Edit. Implement paint from tractor supply is the same as rustoleum, or close. More colors and cheaper. I catch it on sale for $14.99/gal once in a while.

No Tractor Supply stores in SoCal, at least that I know of.

EDIT: Checked online, there's one 40 miles away. Uh.....no!

 

[sleepy127]

I did check out the stuff at Tractor supply the other day. May look at it again.

 

[cbacres]

Here's one of my Vidmars that I painted a few years ago. I used Rustoleum 7400, a industrial singal part paint. It's been holding up great. I was able to lay down nice with minimum thinning. Don't know how much different it is from the line that HD has. I've used the black in the gallon from HD with no issues.
The paint from TSC seems to hold up fine.

 

[countryroad82]

I don't really have an exact ratio for thinning Rustoleum, it's close to 4:1 but sometimes I'll go thinner, it just depends as I'm thinning it if it 'looks' right. I've had good results with it myself.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Cbacres - That cabinet looks really great. Any photo of it with the drawer pulls back on it?

 

[CT2012]

Sleepy I forgot to mention, you could just thin a little bit with Penetrol and use a foam roller brush, which is what I did recently on a steel cabinet.

It came out glass smooth, only flaws in finish was random dust particles floating along, which was unavoidable while painting in the garage (and despite using tack cloth just prior to applying paint).

 

[fj5gtx]

If you want cheap, go with Rustoleum. I usually go 15% acetone.

If you want fast drying and hard to damage, go to your local auto paint jobber. You'll need to protect yourself if you're applying urethane, but there really isn't any faster, durable, and smoother way to go.

 

[G McKay]

Lathe bench?? I think I would spray it with Rustoleum.

 

[angrystroker]

I don't really have an exact ratio for thinning Rustoleum, it's close to 4:1 but sometimes I'll go thinner, it just depends as I'm thinning it if it 'looks' right. I've had good results with it myself.

I wonder why acetone as a thinner instead of mineral spirits. Acetone evaporates much quicker than the MS. For me that would hurt the curing of the base, it might work application wise. But it sounds like a mistake for longevity, would not try it to find out.

Biggest mistake made when using Rustoleum is not waiting for it to cure out, nose test it, if you can smell the paint it is not cured, really simple test right there.

If coating more than a single coat, FOLLOW the manufactures instructions. I know lots of experts out here that never read instruction also get crapy results because of that.

Would I paint a car with the paint no way, but stands up well for what it is designed for.

 

[sleepy127]

I wonder why acetone as a thinner instead of mineral spirits. Acetone evaporates much quicker than the MS. For me that would hurt the curing of the base, it might work application wise. But it sounds like a mistake for longevity, would not try it to find out.
QUOTE]

Myself, I was just saying acetone because that is what they suggest on the can.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

....Would I paint a car with the paint no way, but stands up well for what it is designed for.

I agree for final, long term paint but sometimes there are reasons! This truck looked like absolute **** when I bought it. No "patina" just ugly old faded primer, most likely out of rattle cans:


Apologies to those that have seen this photo before. I've posted it several times but it is sprayed with Rustoleum Sage green in satin. It's been this way about 3 years now and sits outside all the time. Has held up really well and looks good I think for a few bucks. When I final paint it, it will be stripped to bare metal:

 

[Tronyadorable]

Lanco industrial.
http://www.lancopaints.com/america-...d-industrial-coatings/light-industrial/speed/

 

[creativecars]

Rustoleum is a great option for your project.

Rustoleum is an enamel. So far I have used the Nason Acrylic Enamel hardener. It dried to the touch over night. When I researched it many people have tried most of the AE hardeners and were successful. I would give any of the AE hardeners a shot. Hardeners/Catalyst make a huge difference in the durability, drying time and chemical resistance. I think it is worth the cost.

I painted a trailer and some small pieces with it about two months ago, so no long term experience. My experience is with automotive paint but did not want to put that much money in this trailer. Flowed out very nice.

My next project is a restored Farmall Cub tractor that I will put hardener in also.

 

[BJ42LX]

For important jobs always with a fresh can of Rustoleum.

Your results will begin to suffer after the can sits on the shelf for 6 months or more. After a couple years the rest of the can is garbage.

 

[rlitman]

I wonder why acetone as a thinner instead of mineral spirits. Acetone evaporates much quicker than the MS. For me that would hurt the curing of the base, it might work application wise. But it sounds like a mistake for longevity, would not try it to find out.

QUOTE]



Myself, I was just saying acetone because that is what they suggest on the can.

Because the EPA regulations on chemical emissions prevent them from recommending other thinners. Naphtha is much better for thinning Rustoleum. Xylene is another good choice.

 

[rvhop]

I use Rustoleum paint quite a lot. I have no problems with it.

 

[Krusty]

I used Rustoleum out of a rattle-can on a trunk lid on an old Brit car. It did NOT look like a proper auto enamel finish, but it has held up amazingly well. I was ignorant about surface prep, though I did primer and sand before applying the Rustoleum. That was 20 years ago and the car has sat outside, tarped, ever since in all kinds of weather. I looked the trunk lid a few days ago and the paint has begun to fail in a few places. Not bad for a $5.00 can of paint

 

[cbacres]

Cbacres - That cabinet looks really great. Any photo of it with the drawer pulls back on it?

Dan, I've been quite pathetic on getting the pulls back on. I was looking into power coating, but just too much for what im using for. Then it's which black, gloss of flat. Anyway here it is with a sample.

 

[sleepy127]

Thanks for all of the insight. Now to get together what I need to buy it and make my choice. It may be a while but I will update this thread with the way I went and pictures when it is complete.

 

[May Pop]

Our Menards now will mix something like 100 colors of Rust-Opium. No metallics but many more options.

 

[Moose02]

http://search.eastwood.com/ppc/por+...=56087333340&gclid=CPKTxbyPr8ICFWVp7AodhiYAsw

or this i have used por 15 many times and it is fantastic

 

[Ign]

I have had half way decent results (half way, not all the way) with spraying from the Qt. cans such as you linked to. I try to stay with the "Professional" grade stuff. Usually my biggest problem is lack of adhesion between the primer and paint over time; ie, it chips easily.

In contrast to slipknot, I have completely given up on Rustoleum from spray cans, I usually get to use about 20% of the can before it clogs up to the point that it is unusable.

I agree with dogdas, a commercial paint store has better products and certainly a more knowledgeable staff.

While its true some colors can be problematic w clogging or mixing/settling, generally the crappy new tips just clog. Adapter here to fit old tips to the new cans, has restored my willingness to use Rustoleum.

http://artprimo.com/catalog/mobile_product_info.php?cPath=131&products_id=3258

 

[rlitman]

I have not had issues with the new cans, BUT I've found that you cannot overshake them.
I've got a pneumatic paint shaker that clamps a rattle can perfectly. A few minutes of shaking on that, and then a vigorous hand shaking every 30 seconds of spraying (after 15 minutes out of the shaker, if you're not done, put it back in the shaker).
Doing this, I've had no issues getting to the bottom of the cans.

 

[Sweet Baboo]

I agree for final, long term paint but sometimes there are reasons! This truck looked like absolute **** when I bought it. No "patina" just ugly old faded primer, most likely out of rattle cans:


Apologies to those that have seen this photo before. I've posted it several times but it is sprayed with Rustoleum Sage green in satin. It's been this way about 3 years now and sits outside all the time. Has held up really well and looks good I think for a few bucks. When I final paint it, it will be stripped to bare metal:

Beautiful old truck. My Dad had that same truck when I was a kid....factory black paint. Starter in the floor and my Mother had a small foot so Dad started it for her and she left it running til she got back home! She did not drive it too often!

 

[Sweet Baboo]

It works great for machinery, boxes and the like......for the price. I've painted lots of stuff with it. Downside is that shop chemicals take it off pretty easily, even when cured.

I paint old tools no longer in use for display, metal toolboxes, wooden boxes and crates, stools for the grandkids...just about anything with Rustoleum spray paint. The 2x coverage line. If the item needs a bit heavier coverage, I use a can from the Rustoleum Protective Enamel line. I try to avoid using gloss colors and stick with satins and mattes for two reasons. Most of what I paint are vintage items so a gloss finish is too flashy. Also I have found the gloss colors paint runs or thins out occasionally. The satins and mattes don’t unless the prep was not done diligently. Using Rustoleum black or gray flat primer on a clean wiped down item ensures a smooth long lasting paint job. I get consistent great results with Rustoleum. A good initial shaking and continued occasional shakes (just 4 or 5 quick strong ones) and storing the cans inside and not trying to use a can that was partially used and then stored for months makes a positive difference also. I have been teaching my grandchildren to spray paint and their projects are successes as long as they go with those few simple tips!

 

[Zeke]

I don't get people shaking the can once the painting has started. Just the back and forth movement should keep all the pigments and metallic particles suspended.

I once had a spray rig with a remote pot. Min 3 gallons but likely 4. When spraying metallics there was no one to go over and move the pot around to keep the material from separating. So it had an inside stirring mechanism that you left running even while at lunch. Otherwise the pot was stationary, not like a small rattle can with a ball inside. If ordinary paint w/o metallics, I didn't even agitate the big pot.

I also had a 2 quart pressure pot that you could hook on your belt or just carry in your other arm. Again, after many cars I didn't see a need to over agitate the pot. I did put 2 bearings of different sizes inside to keep the heavy stuff off the bottom. But moving around as you do when spraying kept the paint mixed. Good idea to swirl that pot after letting it sit for any length of time.

The best thing about remote pots is that the gun can be used in any position including upside down. Great for doing rockers and fender lips on a car.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Beautiful old truck. My Dad had that same truck when I was a kid....factory black paint. Starter in the floor and my Mother had a small foot so Dad started it for her and she left it running til she got back home! She did not drive it too often!

Just to follow up on this old thread: I finally stripped the entire truck to bare metal when it was modified into the rodstoration it is now. For being 65 years old it had very little cancerous rust and of course we cut it out and replaced with new metal.

Now it's got a mildly cammed 6.0 LS, 4l85e trans, limited slip Ford 8.8 rearend with lug pattern drilled to Chevy 5x4.75, Flat Out Engineering cross member for Corvette IFS, PS, PB, AC. I went way too far with it but of course I love it. I don't drive it nearly enough because I'm afraid to park it anywhere I can't see it! But as much as I love it I really do miss it in it's old "shop truck" look.

 

[IRQVET]

Being a former commercial painter (Aircraft) I can attest that Rustoleum will work fine if you apply it correctly. Most don’t, and thats why they have issues. Usually application or prep related IMHO.

 

[bighouse01]

It’s been 9 years. His rust oleum might still be sticky…