I rebuilt my Snap-On YA-700 and it works fine. I now see that some oil is leaking out of the Safety Overload Valve (I set it the same number of turns out ). Is that a problem and what should I do to stop it? Thanks!!
I replaced both freeze plugs during the rebuild last winter. I noticed the other day that some oil was leaking out , so I popped out both plugs and saw the safety valve hole was full of oil. I had to carry my jack to my other building and back so maybe lifting/ tilting it caused some oil to leak out?

I have a breather on the tank. I am pretty sure that it was dry before I lifted up my car but was wet after I let the jack down and the jack sat a while..

I agree that with pressurized oil, because of a faulty bypass, the oil would get past the threaded adjusting plug faster, but still, the plug is not leak proof. For that, liquid thread sealant would be required.
It is also true that for Walkers, as well as for any other pump with bypasses, made in the USA or import, the return hole would be under the adjusting plug. Still, that position for the hole does not prevent oil from going up to the top of the threaded plug, no matter how sharp the threads are; it will probably take just a little longer. In about half of the jacks I have worked, I have seen oil over the adjusting plug and the bypass has been working properly, the problem was somewhere else.
On the other hand, if there is "pressurized" oil over the adjusting plug because of a faulty bypass, that would mean that the bypass was actually bypassing while attempting to use the jack to raise a vehicle. Oil being bypassed would be noticed immediately as the jack would not go up any further from the point it started bypassing. No matter how much he pumps, as long as it is bypassing, the jack is going nowhere.
Since the OP did not complain about the jack not lifting the vehicle when pumping the handle, I have to assume that the bypass is working properly and not leaking or bypassing. Had the OP complained of any problems lifting the vehicle after the arm raised it a little, then I could have assumed that the oil over the threaded plug came from oil under pressure bypassing the steel ball. As a matter of fact, the OP says that the jacks is working fine. A bypassing pump would never, ever work fine, not even well enough. And I would give anything to see a pump being able to lift a vehicle while actually bypassing; that would be a first in the hydraulic industry.
So you see, oil over the adjusting plug, in this particular case, it is highly improbable that it comes from a faulty bypass. It should be coming back to the bypass area thru the return hole, no matter how weird this may sound.
It is not so easy to explain things away, because the easy explanation begs further explanation.



To the uneducated, it gives the impression that it was beautifully explained, however...
The amount of oil transferred each time you pump should be the same, with a pump piston seal in good condition, because the space inside the pump piston remains the same. When you pump the handle, all the oil in the pump cylinder will be pushed behind the ram, not just a part depending on how high or low is the load. Only thing that happens is that it gets harder to pump as the load rises. You see, the pump piston will draw always the same amount of oil from the tank, with a stroke of the same length, if nothing prevents it from doing so. A higher load will not prevent that from happening.
Equalization of oil pressures has nothing to do with how the bypass works. The moment the weight of the vehicle exceeds the setting of the bypass, the bypass opens, as simple as that. There is no "slight overcoming of the bypass until pressures equalize". And as long as the weight is higher than the setting, the bypass valve will bypass, no matter how much equalization happens ( which it doesn't anyway).
This does not works as an air compressor, where the bypass valve will open to lower the air pressure but still, whatever pressure is available in the tank will do the work required. When the bypass in a jack pump works, the pressure, generate by the pumping, is lost right away and the pump does no works at all. And if you pump again, again the pressure would be lost at the instant of the pumping. There is no remaining pressure to allow some oil to bypass and then lift the vehicle, as you stated. So "equalization" does not works here the way you explained it. What happens is that the oil pumped is diverted towards the oil tank, therefore it does not do any work at all, like lifting a load. The pumped pressure is lost completely the instant the bypass opens. So no work is done.
The pressure behind the ram is held in by the steel ball in the one way valve and this pressure stays there when the bypass stays bypassing. So that pressure in the ram is retained, it does not affect, or promotes, or prevents, the bypassing in any way, nor does it requires any equalization for the pumped oil to do its work.
The bypassing prevents any further increase of pressure entering the ram space. The oil pumped pushes against the one way valve to allow oil to enter the ram but if the bypass bypasses at that moment, the one way valve does not move at all, preventing further the lifting of the arm. It will just stay in the same position as it was when the bypassing starts.
As I stated before, when the bypass works, the jacks does not lifts at all, either slow or fast.
Has the OP bypass being bypassing the jack would have not work fine as he said. It would have not worked at all. Period. This is a "go" or "no go" situation; there are no mid points here.
You can certainly have some bypassing in the one way valve that controls the ram, and if you pump the handle, the jack would still lift, but the moment you stop pumping, the leaky one-way valve would allow the jack to leak down. Not the same with an overload bypass, once the bypass bypasses, no amount of pumping will lift the arm, unless the weight lifted is reduced or the bypass adjusted for higher loads.
If I were you, I would not explain anything further, because every time you explain, your ship sinks a little more. And it is not my fault. It is all yours...
given to you by some persons here go to your head. So who thinks that he knows everything? It is you, not me. I don't know everything but I like to find information about stuff, whether it is on books (which you despise), hydraulic suppliers manuals and catalogs, online or asking questions when in doubt. And I don't do half hour searches as you once said you did (and you were weary after just half an hour of searching). I do spend some good time looking for information and trying to learn more. You just rely on made up facts for lack of actual information.I am going to repeat it once more, if the bypass works, the jack does not lift, the arm stays were it started bypassing. Whether you like it or not, there is not such thing as "a little bypassing and a little lifting". When the bypass opens, all the pumping pressure provided by the pump piston when the handle is lowered, is lost at that instant. With a full stroke, all the oil pumped is diverted to the tank. With a half stroke, half the oil is diverted to the oil tank. So on and so forth. Any person with good knowledge in hydraulic jacks knows this. How come you don't know it?
HW uses backups in every jack they build, whether smaller or bigger, lower or higher priced, than the 93642. I explained that to you already. As usual, you did not understand it.
I also already explained the persons who designed the earlier 93xxx jacks must have been different persons, with different ideas, from the ones that designed later jacks. No other jack manufacturers use modular backups in their jacks, so the one in the 93XXX jacks is the exception, because this jack was designed when modular backups were popular, and many designer of hydraulic equipment were using these in their designs. Now-a -days, these backups are not so popular and are hardly used in new designs. I already explained this to you, but as usual you also did not understand this.
If you do not believe me about modular backups, which actually exist, and most seal manufacturers sell them, why don't you ask about it to someone why experience in general hydraulic equipment and not to someone who has only experience with floor jacks.
I am sorry if you are unable to understand how a backup works. Sometime ago, I sent you a PM with information about how a backup works and you thanked me for it because up to that point you were clueless on how they worked. I still have that PM, so I might post it here to show what you don't know.
I do have the e -mail for the Shinn Fu guy. Thanks.
Anyway, all this talk about the bypass opening does not answer the question about why there is oil on top of the threaded adjustment plug.
And now I am going to point out the mistake you made when answering the OP question.
You now there is an oil return hole inside the chamber where the steel ball and spring reside, you said it yourself. And this hole is open all the time, so it is a free flow hole. So any oil entering this chamber, because the bypass opened, will flow right trough to the tank, without any chance of building any amount of pressure inside this chamber.
So, you see, another one of your mistakes corrected by me.
For any one interested, below is some information on how backups work. I am pretty sure anyone will be able to understand this but not Hiball.
I am beginning to think that you are just a glorified parts changer, like many car mechanics, who simply change many parts until the problem is solved. You have a lot of experience changing parts, I give you that.
I still sustain that the thick, nylon washer is a modular backup, or modular bearing, as it is also called, and it works the same way other backups work.
I turned in the screw 1/4 turn but wasn't able to jack up anything yet , my shop is too full right now.
During the rebuild I set it to where I found it under the knockout , it was set at 3/4 turn out. I now turned it in 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn out.
I was also thinking about the Overload today, I suspect another issue that could cause small bursts of overload seepage is if the Owner started lowering the Vehicle and then decided to stop it by closing off the Release. I know im guilty of doing it to make sure the Stands are positioned correctly etc.. It definitely puts a shock on the Lift Arm. Of course that would depend on the Overload Setting, Load and Decent rate, But extremely plausible I suppose.
That seems a bit Heavy, have you owned the Jack since New? Ever been serviced?
I do lower the jack then stop like when I want to be 100% sure my jack stands are in the exact spot etc. I try to go slow.Intuitively, this makes sense, so I dug a little further.
I found an online calculator that, given the amount of "drop", the vehicle weight and the stopping distance, spits out the impact force. I assumed that the jack was holding up 1000 lbs., that the vehicle dropped 1", and that it came to rest in 1/4". Although I had to do some conversion, the results are shown below. The impact force is 19280N or roughly 4300 lbs. If the vehicle comes to rest in less distance than the 1/4" I assumed, the impact force would be higher still. I'll also include the link to the calculator in case anyone wants to play with the numbers. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/flobi.html#c1". Maybe someone out there can double check my numbers, just to confirm.
Paul
I bought it 24 years ago used and I believe, the only time it was rebuilt was by me last winter. Both knockouts were in place. The only time I ever overloaded it was 15 years ago trying to jack up my Chevy C-70 dump truck. I do jack up large full size cars and 4x4 pickup trucks. Since the rebuild it works fine except for the oil that came out of the screw.
Sounds like it's been a good Jack? Thanks for replying, did you manage to find some replacement plugs?
Is 1/2 turn too tight? I was planning to contact you to get some plugs and was wondering if you can get rebuild kits for an Amco 2 ton air jack like they use on front end machines?