Wifi to Garage that is 450' from house
- Thread starter Midcape
- Start date
Flash and Flare
Well-known member
I am sorta in the same situation, my shop is about 150ft from my house, but we would like to have a WiFi signal around the firepit which is about 350ft from the house.
F&F
F&F
jkwilson
Well-known member
Check into wifi over power line devices. As long as you are on the same transformer for the power feed at both buildings, they are pretty well plug and play.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear...oint/8941593.p?id=1218956063692&skuId=8941593
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear...oint/8941593.p?id=1218956063692&skuId=8941593
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Mid: any way to run a wire from the house to the garage/shop? I'd be interested to hear what the best solution is. you might want to start a thread about this in the general garage discussion and keep this thread for talking about yourself.
welcome to the forum and do you have any hobbies or goals other than getting your computer to get the internet in your shop?
welcome to the forum and do you have any hobbies or goals other than getting your computer to get the internet in your shop?
Not trying to thread steal, but will the signal produced by these powerline devices pass through the power co meter. (Not a smart meter) My shop and house are supplied by the same transformer however the shop and house both have their own meter.
Get an old direct tv dish
Set up extra wireless router as access point. Put router into tupperware box and locate where the sat dish feed horn used to be.
Point beam at garage. These dishes are set up to take a signal from the sky so the beam does not come straight out of the dish.
If more signal is needed make another setup like this at the garage end and aim at each other.
Set up extra wireless router as access point. Put router into tupperware box and locate where the sat dish feed horn used to be.
Point beam at garage. These dishes are set up to take a signal from the sky so the beam does not come straight out of the dish.
If more signal is needed make another setup like this at the garage end and aim at each other.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
There are several inexpensive DIY antennas that will work. Check the web, especially YouTube.
toplessHO
Well-known member
look up tomato can antenna easy to make.
best way is to use a dedicated long range transmitter and receiver like a yagi
Pay close attention to the bandwidth tho
best way is to use a dedicated long range transmitter and receiver like a yagi
Pay close attention to the bandwidth tho
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
I ran a Lan cable with a sepearate wifi box in the shop. The main wifi router in the house is set as the master and the one in the shop is set as a slave. It works good.
I hear you can also get directional antennas but I never tried that.
Chris
I hear you can also get directional antennas but I never tried that.
Chris
hackwelder
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2014
- Messages
- 224
I did this successfully too, built a "wifi wok" but instead of a wok used the lid from a small Weber BBQ, in my case just used it on the receive end so I could get wifi on my laptop, many metal items that are more or less parabolic will work.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WokFi
You could use unifi long range access points. Put one in house and one in garage and set the garage up to run off of the one in the house. I've done this before over long distances and it works great. They are also reasonably priced at 80 bucks each.
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gojeremy40
New member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2014
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Moonraker
kart-racer
Well-known member
For reliable internet access in your shop I would build a wireless bridge using two Ubiquiti Nanostaion antennas. I install wireless internet access for special events and have been using these for years. We have achieved reliable distances of over 1 mile. They are inexpensive and easy to configure. For that short distance I would use either the Nanostaton M2 or Loco M2
More info: here
And Here
More info: here
And Here
For reliable internet access in your shop I would build a wireless bridge using two Ubiquiti Nanostaion antennas. I install wireless internet access for special events and have been using these for years. We have achieved reliable distances of over 1 mile. They are inexpensive and easy to configure. For that short distance I would use either the Nanostaton M2 or Loco M2
More info: here
And Here
For such a short distance why use those instead of two unifi'S? The unifi long range should handle that no problem, and would also provide your full wireless access for the house and shop and everywhere inbetween. Correct me if I'm wrong but with the nanostation wouldn't he still need to have a seperate wireless access point at both ends? If that's the case just skip the middle man (nanostation) and let the unifi handle everything. I haven't used a nanostation yet but I have been wanting to try one out.
http://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap/
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wssix99
Well-known member
The Unifi's aren't point-to-point systems, right? Even if they go a long distance, that doesn't mean they will be fast at range. A point-to-point solution should be a lot more reliable.
Hey Everyone,
New to the board so this is my first post but I'm an IT guy that does large scale wifi design for schools and enterprise so I'll take what others have said and try to explain it in plain language.
Kart-racer is right on the garage side of things. You'll create a bridge from one wireless router to another from the house to the garage.
You'll want directional antennas for this job and a panel should work just fine. Something with 2dB gain or maybe 4dB will be plenty. Make sure the antennas can "see" each other and then configure a wireless bridge within your router setup software. Almost any router on the market today can do this. You don't even have to have matching routers on each end.
Chances are you wouldn't even need a fancy antenna if the line of site is good.
If you don't know how to do this there are lots of tutorials via google and youtube or find the person you know who knows computers and they can probaby do it for a 12 pack.
For the firepit I'd do another directional antenna pointed directly at the firepit. Again, 4dB should be plenty.
About antennas:
The little poles that come on your router are omni-directional. Think of the signal being shaped like a donut (torus if you're fancy) with the antenna going through the hole.
Directional antennas are Yagi's, panels and things like that. The tomato can mentioned is commonly referred to as CanTenna on the web and you'll find lots about building one. Super cheap, great performance if you pay attention to the details. Panels are easier and you can find plans on those too.
The satellite dish is also popular but I'd only use that if I were trying to take a signal a few miles. You can go 10 or 20 with one of those on each end. A good point to remember is that in RF too much gain can be bad. You want to try and match for the situation. Too much equals a lot of noise.
Hopefully this has been a helpful addition to some already good answers.
I'll post later about the shop I'm building in another thread
Later.....
Wally
New to the board so this is my first post but I'm an IT guy that does large scale wifi design for schools and enterprise so I'll take what others have said and try to explain it in plain language.
Kart-racer is right on the garage side of things. You'll create a bridge from one wireless router to another from the house to the garage.
You'll want directional antennas for this job and a panel should work just fine. Something with 2dB gain or maybe 4dB will be plenty. Make sure the antennas can "see" each other and then configure a wireless bridge within your router setup software. Almost any router on the market today can do this. You don't even have to have matching routers on each end.
Chances are you wouldn't even need a fancy antenna if the line of site is good.
If you don't know how to do this there are lots of tutorials via google and youtube or find the person you know who knows computers and they can probaby do it for a 12 pack.
For the firepit I'd do another directional antenna pointed directly at the firepit. Again, 4dB should be plenty.
About antennas:
The little poles that come on your router are omni-directional. Think of the signal being shaped like a donut (torus if you're fancy) with the antenna going through the hole.
Directional antennas are Yagi's, panels and things like that. The tomato can mentioned is commonly referred to as CanTenna on the web and you'll find lots about building one. Super cheap, great performance if you pay attention to the details. Panels are easier and you can find plans on those too.
The satellite dish is also popular but I'd only use that if I were trying to take a signal a few miles. You can go 10 or 20 with one of those on each end. A good point to remember is that in RF too much gain can be bad. You want to try and match for the situation. Too much equals a lot of noise.
Hopefully this has been a helpful addition to some already good answers.
I'll post later about the shop I'm building in another thread
Later.....
Wally
kart-racer
Well-known member
Yes, he would need an additional AP in the garage. Depending on what he plans to do internet wise ( just email and web surfing) the Unifi solution would work, although would suffer some bandwidth loss in bridge mode, as the Unifi was not designed to be used as a bridge like the Nanostation.
I send internet to my garage (apx 100 feet) and send HD Tv via a Tivo mini as well as feed 3 IP cameras back to the server in the house with no signal loss.
jackfork
Well-known member
Wally, I'm also a IT guy and thought your post was excellent. Thanks for posting.
Lippyp
Well-known member
The power line adaptors do go a good distance. A friend of mine was using them and suddenly noticed he could see several extra devices on his network. Turned out the guy across the street was also using them and he could see what was on his network too! so it will even go out past your fuse panel. I'm probably going to use one out to my garage as I'm now regretting not chucking some conduit with some some cat 5 in it in the hole when I ran power out to my garage. Didn't think I'd want/need a pc out there but now I have a new PC considering chucking the old one out there. Just needs a cheap used graphics card throwing in it as the current one is dying.
I guess op should state what he is doing with the WiFi connection as you are right, if he is just browsing the Internet the unifi will be fine. If he is streaming bluray rips then that is a different story.
Also for the op, keep in mind your WiFi range is dictated by the least powerful device. So a unifi talking to a unifi is capable of 600 feet. A unifi talking to a cell phone is going to be limited by the cell phones WiFi power, which is going to be much less.
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Beemer533
Well-known member
He could try a cable, but 450' is well over the 100m (328') limit for LAN. He would probably be closer to 500' all said and done.. Now, it may work at that distance, but I wouldn't count on it.
I'm not sure if you can use the unifi pro in bridge mode, but either way, you can't use an AP in both bridge and AP mode at the same time. So regardless of whether you use a pair of nanostations or unifi for a bridge, you still need an AP at the remote end (the shop).
Also, as I think someone else mentioned, that distance is a bit far for a unifi. And since you can't install the regular unifi outside (only the UAP AC outdoor can be used outside, but that is over $400), that would further mitigate the signal.
I think the best solution for Midcape is to just get a nanostation M2 for $50 and point it at the shop in AP mode.
kart-racer
Well-known member
He could definitely try one Nanostation in AP mode pointed at the garage, but again will be limited by the transmit power of the devices in the garage. The Nano will send a signal strong enough to receive in the garage, but the devices in the garage might not be capable of sending back the signal.
Beemer533
Well-known member
Very true! It wouldn't be a waste of money or effort though, since he would need 2 of these to do a bridge anyway..
Also, if he is using a laptop, he could use a higher power USB wifi... Probably out of luck though with a tablet or phone though..
Also, if he is using a laptop, he could use a higher power USB wifi... Probably out of luck though with a tablet or phone though..
You don't need a unifi pro or an AC model which are both more expensive. As I stated earlier I have two unifi long range (non ac version) setup about 400 feet away, they are both mounted in the building they serve but have no other obstructions. They are setup to work in bridge and ap mode at the same time, and it works great for Web surfing/netflix.
Here are the exact unifi long range models I used both are mounted inside. At $89 each he can buy two of them and they'll be the bridge and ap at the same time.
https://store.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-40.html
If he does need an outdoor model it is $135 for an outdoor unifi, again non ac version.
https://store.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-outdoor.html
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wssix99
Well-known member
You mean publicly - right here - where his wife can find out?
timtim2008
Well-known member
wifi repeater about $25-$50
Skeetobite
Well-known member
Here's my set up, except for the Engenius EAP350, which turned out to be junk. I have since set up hardwired networks in the detached garages.
My out-buildings are over 400’ away from the house. The max network cable run is limited to 300’. Burying cable and or fiber cost way too much. Solution: wireless. I was surprised at how affordable the solution turned out to be relative to cable and fiber.
The equipment pictured is my exact set-up, but you can mix and match whatever meets your needs or budget. Note that steps 6 and 7 below can be repeated in as many buildings as you like.
Wireless HDTV Devices I have tested, with great success in the secret lab:
Once the HDHomerun Prime is on the network, the features can be accessed from anywhere on the network, wired or wireless.
I have 110Mb service to the house and get about 74Mb down at the outbuildings.
My out-buildings are over 400’ away from the house. The max network cable run is limited to 300’. Burying cable and or fiber cost way too much. Solution: wireless. I was surprised at how affordable the solution turned out to be relative to cable and fiber.
The equipment pictured is my exact set-up, but you can mix and match whatever meets your needs or budget. Note that steps 6 and 7 below can be repeated in as many buildings as you like.
- Cable Modem - At least 20Mb bandwidth. If you have 50Mb+, you’re doing great. With 100Mb+ you’re a rock star.
- Router - This can be wired or wireless. I use the first router as the DHCP server for the entire network (this is what gives each network device an IP address). I have the wireless radios turned off unless I need temporary high speed wireless in that area. DHCP is disabled on all of the other routers, APs, etc.
- HDTV tuner - Comcast provides a “cable card” free if you already have a box through them. I understand this is common among cable providers. The card has your entire subscription encoded, so premium and digital channels are all working, i.e.; HBO, MAX, etc. I was able to pick mine up in person, some require a tech to visit. This tuner is great and allows three devices simultaneously.
- Gigabit switch - Based on past performance and longevity issues, I always prefer commercial grade switches. I don’t recommend a particular brand, but they are easy to identify by their metal case. The gigabit speed is needed to handle bandwidth for streaming movies, music, gaming or HDTV without pixelation (the jitters). This amount of throughput can handle all of these activities simultaneously.
- Outdoor access point - I’ve been using the one pictured for about one year. No problems, no reboots, just crazy high speed access up to 2 miles with direct line of sight (DLOS). I don’t broadcast the AP name because it has no guest network. The last thing I want is people running around with my network key. This access point allows you to scan the area for other APs, which allows you to change the channel so you don’t overlap the one indoors or a neighbor. I love watching a game on the iPad, by the fire pit, while throwing down a cold one!
- Client Bridge - the device pictured can run as an access point or client bridge. I planned to have a separate wireless network (as part of the main network) in the buildings, so I use the client bridge mode (this mode simply extends your network). This device is also rated at 2 miles DLOS. This device allows channel selection like its big brother.
- Wireless Access Point - you can use literally any wireless router at the end of the line. It can even be a wired router with hardwired devices or a mix of both. I went with a matching brand name for simplicity and to avoid cross talk between brands. Seems to have worked. The AP can have any name and separate network key. You can even set up the guest network for your buddies to use. I get an average of 69Mb at this device with optimal settings, channel and encryption.
- Devices - any network capable device can be attached. For the HDTV, you need what is called an HDCP compatible device (for digital copyright protection). Simply put, if you have a smart TV or any network capable device that plays DVDs or BlueRay, you’re all set. Note, this particular tuner doesn’t work with Windows laptops due to a glitch in Windows - they will probably fix this, in about 20 years. Since smart phones and tablets are HDCP compliant, they work just fine for all digital channels, but will not play premium channels due to restrictions by the providers.
Wireless HDTV Devices I have tested, with great success in the secret lab:
- iPhone - InstaTV app - no premium channels
- iPad - InstaTV app - no premium channels
- Apple TV - Netflix, HULU, iTunes, etc.
- Windows touchscreen PC with Media Center
- Mac Pro - with VLN tv client - no premium channels
- MacBook - Pro with VLN tv client - no premium channels
- Wireless security camera - D-Link turned out to be junk and was returned. Still researching an alternative.
- PS3 and PS4
Once the HDHomerun Prime is on the network, the features can be accessed from anywhere on the network, wired or wireless.
I have 110Mb service to the house and get about 74Mb down at the outbuildings.
newbinga
Active member
I install several of these each week for surveillance camera installs. I am more on the install side, electrical, wiring, conduit etc and not real familiar with the details of these. We have another IT guy who does the networking portion. But I know we run several cameras over one radio link and they work greatFor reliable internet access in your shop I would build a wireless bridge using two Ubiquiti Nanostaion antennas. I install wireless internet access for special events and have been using these for years. We have achieved reliable distances of over 1 mile. They are inexpensive and easy to configure. For that short distance I would use either the Nanostaton M2 or Loco M2
More info: here
And Here
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Beemer533
Well-known member
Interesting, I didn't think you could do bridge /AP at the same time...
Im not sure why I put "pro" in my post; I meant to just refer to thr unifi line generally..
This post edited by the NSA
BuickFarmer
Well-known member
Now that was funny
Thanks to the moderators for bringing this out of the intro forum, some great stuff here. I've been wondering how I was going to get wifi out to my new build.
Question, my building will be tin sides and roof, will this cause interference.
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wdrumheller
Well-known member
I got this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OWY6P2/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and then I got a 15db gain antenna and cable that would fit from radiolabs.
I got the "backfire" antenna http://www.radiolabs.com/products/antennas/2.4gig/backfire.php and a cable that would fit between the two:
BEWARE I had a hard time figuring out the cable connections male to female, etc... and I called the folks at Radiolab and they made me a custom cable.
It's like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3W4FLS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I like the guys at radiolabs.
I got the "backfire" antenna http://www.radiolabs.com/products/antennas/2.4gig/backfire.php and a cable that would fit between the two:
BEWARE I had a hard time figuring out the cable connections male to female, etc... and I called the folks at Radiolab and they made me a custom cable.
It's like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3W4FLS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I like the guys at radiolabs.
shorton
New member
Hard to beat the price of the TPLINK wa7210n from Amazon.com. Cheap and high power. I have 3 of them spread over my property.
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I use a tp link device as a client ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PFQX7K/?tag=atomicindus08-20) that plugs into a wifi router in my shop. It's about 200' between the house and shop. By using the tp link in client mode I still get wpa2 encryption between it an the primary wifi router at the house. The second router does dhcp forwarding, so all my shop devices see the house ones and visa versa. The tp link is good for 9 miles (line of sight, 35 miles with an external antenna). It's also poe (power over ethernet) so only one cable to run outside.
I use 2 loco M2 nano's to go about 350' from the house to an all steel building. There it hooks up to a router and I have wifi. I think the loco's were 50 bucks each. Been super impressed with them, haven't lost signal once in a year. I tried those plugin POE's from Best Buy and they didn't work. All on the same transformer and same meter.
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