Building 30 x 36 Garage and Shop Space

[ICT_Kevin]

There's been a week hiatus for some business stuff, but I'm back at it now. The concrete apron is in. The garage is about 70% sheathed below the top plates. I have the osb now to sheath the remainder.

It's so nice to have concrete instead of a sand pile.


I got the work bench free from a friend of a friend a couple weeks ago. It has metal ends and a painted oak front. I'll re-paint it to garage colors at some point. No rush until the garage has color.


I moved stuff enough that Megan can park in the garage when she wants. We'll be ruining access with a dumpster for about a week starting today. With luck, I finish sheeting this weekend and the bulk of the trash goes away.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Our new trick works. Two cars under cover.


Insulation is done and osb sheeting is nearly done.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Dad and I got the door in at the top of the stairs. That'll make it easier to do work upstairs with the boys around. I also loaded the rest of the debris into the dumpster to go away tomorrow.

 

[murd]

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing the upstairs finished.

 

[Fandango]

In a world of gigantic pole barns, this "Just-Right" size garage is really cool. Thanks for sharing.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

In a world of gigantic pole barns, this "Just-Right" size garage is really cool. Thanks for sharing.

A pole barn can spoil you. I have a decent bit of machine shop tucked in a big shop, but a warm place at home will be sooo nice. I've kept my stuff packed in tidy, thinking of how I'll do it when I move things home. I finished sheeting the walls from the wall top plates down tonight, but I'll hold on photos until I can get things cleaned up a little.

I'm thinking about how to improve access in the stair well to get to the high areas. There are three options in mind:
1. Make a platform that sits on the stairs and is big enough to set up a ladder.
2. Make a 26" x 9' removable bridge from stairs to storage shelf over the front door.
3. Screw 2x4 cleats into the wall top plates and set a ladder platform on top.

I kinda like option 3 because a platform could be sized just for my 6' ladder and I can scoot it along the cleats to work the length of the space. It seems like the smallest platform to build and hang up. Seems good if I want to use a short extension ladder sideways from the stairs too. Not sure if cleats interfere with any stair width rules. Could always pull the cleats after work is done.

 

[miamivice]

Awesome structure!

 

[skcj213]

I love what you have done, looks great. Actually, I am planning to build the same garage in the next couple of years, maybe just a bit smaller. If you don't mind me asking, can you tell me what you have invested to get to this point?

 

[V-10 Killer]

Very nice garage, I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I also put up a 30x36 and love it.

 

[HoosierMark]

If you want something to work in a stairway, get a little giant ladder. (or similar). It is so handy for numerous things including painting in stairways. I set mine up with a walk board and it works out great. It also makes a great step ladder for changing light bulbs on higher ceilings in my garage.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

If you don't mind me asking, can you tell me what you have invested to get to this point?

It's about $50 per square foot. I have about 1050 sft down, and 550 sft up for 1600 sft total. I'll let you do the multiplication. That's with a few anticipated expenses finishing the upstairs room yet. In Kansas, I'd say it's hard to do better without outright skimping on some area. I'd have $5000 more in it if I hadn't horse traded for free demo on the old garage, and done so many of the misc and finishing tasks myself.

Coulda simplified plumbing by putting the bath under the stairs, but hard to pull off a shower there. Coulda maybe saved a couple grand doing my own plumbing too. A separate trenching company did all the work that had me scared, connecting water and sewer.

If you want something to work in a stairway, get a little giant ladder. (or similar). It is so handy for numerous things including painting in stairways. I set mine up with a walk board and it works out great. It also makes a great step ladder for changing light bulbs on higher ceilings in my garage.

I though about getting one again when you posted. We may get one yet, but I built the platform tonight. It only took three fresh 2x4s, screws, and some leftover scraps of plywood. It was a $10 solution to use the ladders I have. I've only made it this far by borrowing a 13' clone of a little giant. It looked like I'd need a 17' or better to get to the farthest areas.

48" long x 40.125 wide.


Cleats are screwed into the top plates on either side. Undecided if I'll remove them, or leave them up.


Blocks the stairs like a limbo, but does its job well. The platform is small enough to hang vertical over the stairs above the storage opening.


Got the ultility closet sheeted before the holiday too. I like it tidied up.

 

[JKC03]

Looks awesome, I'm sure you said somewhere, but what software did you use to design it? I never even thought about an upstairs when I build mine in the future, I like how the stairs are on the side out of the way!!
Great build!

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Looks awesome, I'm sure you said somewhere, but what software did you use to design it? I never even thought about an upstairs when I build mine in the future, I like how the stairs are on the side out of the way!!
Great build!

Thanks. I used the free version of SketchUp (www.sketchup.com). The video tutorials really helped me get going. It's the fast way to get a real idea of how it's going to look. Making components or groups is a huge help when you want to make things like windows or furniture to copy or move around.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

My friend Peter came over and worked four 10 hour days with me over the holiday. We got the bath fan vent and solid vent pipe connected, sheeted the last of the stair well, hung the bath mirror and shower curtain bar and TP holder, hung the bath door, and finished the attic paint. The floor is in work, 95% done (not shown).


My little helper likes to show people everything he finds.

 

[Billhae]

Looks awesome Kevin - I've been following yours as it's the same size as mine but opposite orientation. I didn't opt for the attic space because my house is already at 4800sq ft with the renovated former garage/basement that was under the house and didn't see the need for this extra space - but dang, after seeing yours coming together I think I wished I had at least made an efficiency apartment similar to yours to potentially rent to my oldest kid!!

Great work - nice garage!!

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Looks awesome Kevin - ... - but dang, after seeing yours coming together I think I wished I had at least made an efficiency apartment similar to yours to potentially rent to my oldest kid!!

Great work - nice garage!!

Thanks. I think attic trusses can be a great opportunity. I hope to keep a grip on the attic as an office and library for a long time. It really would make a nice apartment though. I'd put a kitchenette in the dormer nearest the entry door. The other side, right next to the bath door seems in poor smell. The plan for now is to get a mini-fridge in april/may when the college dorms clear out and call that good.

I like your place. Figures since they are similar. Nice looking house too. Looks like we're in a dead heat to get the basics buttoned up.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Awesome stuff Kevin and well done.

Regards

 

[BUGTHUG]

Nice garage, looks just like a home here in Winfield, even the house next door looks the same. Small world.
Do you work for one of the remaining aircraft plants?

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Nice garage, looks just like a home here in Winfield, even the house next door looks the same. Small world.
Do you work for one of the remaining aircraft plants?

Yeah. I'm with McCauley, doing aircraft propellers. We've been a part of Cessna for decades, but sell to any takers. Now Beech is a part of the family too under Textron Aviation. They have us on Beech Field now. I started in aerodynamics, but migrated into structures and mechanical design.

 

[BUGTHUG]

Yeah. I'm with McCauley, doing aircraft propellers. We've been a part of Cessna for decades, but sell to any takers. Now Beech is a part of the family too under Textron Aviation. They have us on Beech Field now. I started in aerodynamics, but migrated into structures and mechanical design.

I'm retired from Rockwell Collins, worked out at the airport next to the FFA building that got ran over from the plane a few months ago.
You do engineering type work?

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Another week, another couple things down. There were air gaps between the sub-floor and the sheetrock attic walls that let air pass between garage and attic. We stapled cardboard blockers around the outside, then foamed or caulked the gaps shut. Floor next.

It's a laminate on sale the last month or so. Summer Retreat Teak is the name. I looked at going really dark, but figured my wall and bookcase color options would be more limited. I got the floor before I finalized wall color.


Now I'm fitting trim. The trim will be wall color, but I'll show it in white in case anyone wants to see how it would look.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Got more trim up in the main room. It's so nice having the bathroom door cased and the latch plate installed. Bath is completely private, even when there's two of us working on the attic. Quarter rounds are painted, so they should drop in fast. Bath trim really isn't started, but it's a small job compared to what we've already done.

Trim in primer color - the way my wife liked it.


Here's with both doors trimmed, first coat of grey up. The sharp contrast trim has gotten old for me. I like a lot of the old places going a bit monotone to emphasize the furniture and decor stuff. It would look even better over a herringbone oak floor, but everything does.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

I have a stair problem. The stringers aren't quite right. The top step needs 1 7/16 of shim to sit the right height, and each step down needs gradually less until the bottom only needs 1/16 inch. At the bottom, I'll use hobby plywood for shims. At the top for the thick ones, is there a standard way people shim that much? My wife likes the idea of a solid plywood shim, full stair width under the tread. I like the way she thinks for overkill, but it's a lot of plywood to go all-out like that. 2x stock could do it, but I wonder about splitting. Poplar? Plywood strips? Suggestions? I dive in tomorrow morning hopefully.

 

[msgross]

any pics of the problem?

 

[ICT_Kevin]

These pics show the top of stairs. The door is an exterior style with seals since the attic is conditioned and the rest is not. I'm asking around now if the threshold this style is a fail item itself.

The framer expected finish floor to roll out 1 3/16 lower than this tall threshold sits (just figured out where a bunch of the discrepancy appeared).

Started another thread to chase this specifically. It looks like two choices to make now: leave threshold and fix tall height problem vs rip out threshold and do a lower style and shim vs re-cut stringers. Shim height sure drops if I lower the door threshold.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278344

 

[gasgas17]

Firstly, that is a very nice garage you have there. Very jealous.

I must say I have never been a fan of a door at the top of a set of stairs. I had a bad experience in an office space one time when I opened a door leading into a dark space. By the time I flicked the light switch I was free falling forward down a set of stairs. Luckily I was able to grab a railing and save myself. My chest almost exploded though.

Why not move the door 90 degrees onto the landing area and build a new wall for it. Then you will have a full landing at the top of the stairs. And it also gives you room to add one more tread. Something your contractor should have suggested during construction too. I've been a carpenter/contractor for 25 years and would have built it as I described above. A comfortable stair is 7" rise and 10" run. We try never to go over 7.5" rise or below a 9.5" run.

Total rise finish floor to finish floor divided by 7 = number of rises. Round up for a taller rise and one less run or round down for a lower rise and one more run. Your last rise should be your floor construction, so always one more rise than run.

 

[gasgas17]

Guessing your wall height at 10' even that would be 18 rises at 7.26", allowing for a joist of 9.5", 3/4" sub floor and 1/2" flooring upstairs. Concrete slab at the bottom. 17 runs.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

That was the original plan. I didn't force them to re-cut stringers the moment I saw it back in framing. Looking back... The landing at the top was meant to be a few inches back, and the stairs start a few inches further forward.

Thank You. I like it too.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

We buckled down and got the stairs together. We cut blocks to lift and level the steps and get into range. Everything is glued, screwed, and the counterbored screw holes were plugged late this evening.



Our house's stairs weren't a public space so they're pine. The garage got the stouter oak treads. I figure on a lot of dust and sand over the years. The counterbores are easy to see before the plugs. Not now.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Two weeks, and it looks a lot the same, but lots of progress on tedious stuff. Stairs are finished, 5 coats Varathane per a friend's recommendation. What's another 6 hours to wait for another coat? Got towel ring and hook up in the bath, a 2x4 under the man-door front threshold so it won't flex, downstairs trim, and a ton of cleaning. The garage is almost clean enough to photo without shame. Stowed a lot of foam and leftover lumber on my storage shelf tonight.

6 dozen tubes of caulk and a lot of spray foam caps gone to trash and recycling.


Put returns on my hand rail. I like the effect. Went traditional because it felt good to the hand. This one has a deep undercut for the top grip area.


Trimmed the end of the wall beside the stairs. Will keep osb from fraying, and 7/16 radius corners will make it hurt less when I crash into them on occasion.


Built a 2" pink foam coozie with a 3/4 plywood box around the un-insulated part of the heater/AC sleeve. The goal is to reduce condensation in winter, and reduce energy loss year round.


Added melamine splash, paper towel rack, and hanging hooks to the shop sink. I like the change of tone here and the utility improvement. Edges caulked so the particle core will last longer. Screwed to wall instead of glued so it's easy to replace in 15 years.


Working out where to hang 24' ladder, and hooks to buy to hang shovels and such next. Not interested in french cleat rigs. Will pick hardware that goes direct to the wall. Agonizing a little if I work out a ceiling hanging setup for the ladder to save wall space. I've been fighting the need to buy an 8' ladder since my 6' is marginal to reach the 10' ceiling. Hanging things up high will force the issue.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Ten Days. I got my certificate of occupancy from the city, so the permit is closed. It's appraisal prep for the bank and moving in now.

Here's the cleanest that the attic room will ever be:




My office is coming together.


My 2 year old likes the Bill Watterson dinosaur desktop. Raaawr.


We moved 2 book cases. Here's the mess. I'm really itching to do built-ins when I have money and energy again.


Here's my drafting table's stunt. I put 1/2 inch plexiglass over a 1/4 inch mirror. There are pockets routed into the plexi with LEDs shinning edge-wise in toward the middle.


Last, I built this model maybe five years ago. My original plan was 26 x 32 with a full upstairs made to look like a half story. It works out about the same size as what I have, but a lot of area has moved from upstairs to down, where I needed it more. This model made it obvious I should add some length and add a door.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

It's been three weeks. I have bookcases in upstairs, my library racked in, and a ton of stuff cleaned up. There's an amazing amount of cleaning after construction or when moving, even when it's only into your back yard.

Here's a garage miracle, a clean room. There are nine 10 x 12 squares that make the floor. We bunched all the good stuff onto one, or stuffed into the closet.


The trick is to get everything out of the way for concrete sealant.


I'm pretty excited about this bit. We have a lot of the major floor-space suckers hung on the wall in a nice way. I was surprised that Megan wanted to store wheelbarrows inside, but this is a nice way. It's ready for me to remove the wheel with the flat tire any time.

 

[V-10 Killer]

That's beautiful work man. I have a 30x36 too. The only thing I'd change about it if I could would be adding a second floor, but I was locked in by height restrictions. You'll enjoy that thing for a long time

 

[thickhead]

Looks like it turned out to be fantastic building. Congrats!
Looking forward to seeing it filled.

 

[ajohno]

What a top job.

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Thanks everyone. I've looked at a lot of good garage pictures, and I want to make this a good one. Rolling more sealant on the floor today. Tomorrow I'll start moving things back to their places.

That's beautiful work man. I have a 30x36 too. The only thing I'd change about it if I could would be adding a second floor, but I was locked in by height restrictions. You'll enjoy that thing for a long time

I like the 30 x 36 size. If our lot was deeper, turning it 90 degrees like yours could have been nice. It only needed 6 ft more space to get away with it. The attic is great. My boys have been playing upstairs more. The LEGOs are out here now, out of the house for Mom.

 

[Autorotica]

Looks great Kevin,

What did you decide to go with on the concrete sealant?

Thanks!
Chris

 

[ICT_Kevin]

Looks great Kevin,

What did you decide to go with on the concrete sealant?

Thanks!
Chris

Hey Chris. I used a clear sealer from home depot. It's Behr Concrete and Masonry Waterproofer and Protector, #980. Two coats will be about 5 gallons on 1080 sft by the time I finish. It's really thin and runny, soaks into the pores of the concrete to keep water from seeping up from below. We've had good luck with it in a shop space that gets moisture both from above and below. When it's on, you almost can't see it. It won't do the spotless glamor look like an epoxy paint, but it won't peel with moisture or burn with welding or grinding.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-gal-Protector-and-Waterproofer-98001/100179930

The aircraft experimental departments do a similar look for floors here. Waxed concrete look. Same basic rationale I think. Coated so messes don't stick as bad, but no paint to be easily marred by welding, grinding, spills, or furniture moving tracks.

>Quick follow note, it really does look like naked concrete after this sealer. If you wanta gloss or wax look, you'll need something else<

 

[sunsation288]

wow !!, nice stuff , thanks for sharing so many picture ,
congrat again

 

[Model A Fan]

Are you able to show pictures of your old garage after your buddy re-purposed it? It would be cool to see what ever became of it.

I really like the garage you built. The quality of planning and follow through is very impressive. How much did it cost to have that garage designed and built? That is pretty much what I would like to build/have built at some point.

What is your profession? Do you do architectural type work? Very impressive, I like it a lot.