Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!

[Faisal]

this is Williams S-50 1/2-Drive Ratchet and S-150A Plug, with Inset for Reverse, ca. 1935-1939, marked "J.H Williams & Co." and "Buffalo, N.Y." in forged raised letters, with "Drop-Forged in U.S.A." on the reverse. The W-Diamond logo appears both on the handle forging and stamped on one face.

The overall length is 10.0 inches, and the finish is chrome plating with polished faces.

The ratchet uses an S-150A drive plug, kept captive in the drive gear, and easily pushed to either side to reverse the direction. The ratchet mechanism can be serviced and lubricated by removing the threaded retaining plate

https://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/williams-supercompany-p4.html

 

[Faisal]

part 2

 

[Faisal]

this is craftsman 1/2-Inch Female-Drive Ratchet, H-Circle

https://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/craftsman-be-hcircle-p2.html

tools used

1-evapo rust
2-wire brush
3-3 in 1 oil
4-paint thinner for cleaning

 

[Faisal]

Woow !! I had bad experience with red vinegar , I kept my rustd chrome tools in red vinegar for 24h and the chrome color changed ! I will try white vinegar

Ver nice restoration and thank you for sharing

 

[n8n]

rather than using vinegar, have you considered electrolysis? No acid involved so less chance of damage to the metal.

 

[Faisal]

rather than using vinegar, have you considered electrolysis? No acid involved so less chance of damage to the metal.

Since long time I am thinking to use electrolysis method on my tools and I have seen many vedio about electrolysis and I am amazed about the results.
I think I will do this method for the next project

Thanks

 

[Faisal]

rather than using vinegar, have you considered electrolysis? No acid involved so less chance of damage to the metal.

Let me ask you about electrolysis , shall I clean the tool from old grease and grime or I can put the tool direct in the electrolysis ?
From you experience what is the ideal steps to use electrolysis method ??

 

[n8n]

Re: Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!!!!

I usually pre clean with oven cleaner before electrolysis. The electrolysis will float off a small amount of oily gunk but it works much better if there is little to none.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[lordabraxis]

Look at these 2 beat up beauties that came in today for warranty exchanges! Both are 1/2" drive craftsman that I think I'm going to try restoring!

 

[jakemac]

Here's a 1960 Craftsman Speeder Ratchet I just finished (after 3 months of work). These were only offered for sale for 3 years, '60-'63.

The glare in the pictures hide it, but there is more pitting and missing chrome than can be seen. The only replacement parts used were a ball bearing for the pawl, and new retaining clips.

 

[Faisal]

Re: Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!!!!

I usually pre clean with oven cleaner before electrolysis. The electrolysis will float off a small amount of oily gunk but it works much better if there is little to none.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

The trial is going on..........

 

[Faisal]

Look at these 2 beat up beauties that came in today for warranty exchanges! Both are 1/2" drive craftsman that I think I'm going to try restoring!

Wooow these ratchets are really worth to restore

=V= and U circle , I think U circle only missing selector switch
I am wating to see the ratchets after restoration

 

[Faisal]

Here's a 1960 Craftsman Speeder Ratchet I just finished (after 3 months of work). These were only offered for sale for 3 years, '60-'63.

The glare in the pictures hide it, but there is more pitting and missing chrome than can be seen. The only replacement parts used were a ball bearing for the pawl, and new retaining clips.

It was in horrible condition and you return the live to it .that what I can say
great restoration but is your process to remove the rust

 

[jakemac]

My methods of rust removal depend on the material.
If it's bare metal, I use a product called EvapoRust.
If it's plated metal, then I use a product called CLR.

They are similar products, but the CLR is a little gentler on chrome. Both of these can be reused. You can get them to last longer if you filter out the sludge when you're not using them. Link
This also works with the degreaser/cleaner that I use called Simple Green.
Simple Green will even soften or remove most paints if you leave it soaking long enough.
I can go months without having to buy a new gallon, and when I do, I add it to the "dirty" stock.

Then, there's always the trusty fine wire wheel. For when I want to keep some "patina" on old bare metal.

I've thought about electrolysis, but haven't gone there yet. I may try it for larger projects someday. My shop is under the house, I have to be careful about fumes (paint fumes as well) or I get yelled at.

 

[n8n]

Electrolysis is best done outside as it does yield some H2 gas, not something you want building up in your workshop. I usually set my tank up on the back porch under the overhang so my power supply doesn't get rained on.

 

[Faisal]

Electrolysis is best done outside as it does yield some H2 gas, not something you want building up in your workshop. I usually set my tank up on the back porch under the overhang so my power supply doesn't get rained on.

safety first

 

[3baygarage]

Here's a 1960 Craftsman Speeder Ratchet I just finished (after 3 months of work). These were only offered for sale for 3 years, '60-'63.

The glare in the pictures hide it, but there is more pitting and missing chrome than can be seen. The only replacement parts used were a ball bearing for the pawl, and new retaining clips.

That came out real nice! I remember you posting that gem of a find so it's awesome to see the resto. Still haven't found one "in the wild" myself.

 

[Faisal]

hi guys

i want your help to remove Engraving from my ratchet ,its very rare and i want the safe way to remove the Engraving ,any idea?

please see the ratchet picture in the attachment

 

[jakemac]

The only way that I can see to remove the engraving is to sand the piece down. Unfortunately, that would also remove the Craftsman stamp and all the plating as well.

This is one of the reasons why I dislike engraving. It may help you identify your tools when the end up in someone else's box, but it destroys the value of the tool for the next guy.

 

[Faisal]

this is 1/2-drive Snap-on 71-N ratchet KENOSHA WIS , with "Snap-on U.S.A." in raised letters forged into the shank, and with "Patent No 1854513" forged into the reverse.

The overall length is 9.5 inches, and the finish is polished chrome.

 

[Faisal]

Part 2

 

[Faisal]

this is a 3/8-drive Armstrong F-51 ratchet, with "Armstrong Chicago" and the Strong-Arm logo forged into the handle. The reverse is marked "Drop Forged Steel" and "Made in U.S.A." in forged raised letters.

The overall length is 6.8 inches, and the finish is chrome plating with polished faces.

The construction of the ratchet is very similar to that of the 1/2-drive S-51 Ratchet shown previously, with a forged handle and a threaded cover plate. The ratchet mechanism uses a 14-tooth gear with a pivoting pawl, with the shift knob rigidly attached to the pawl. The pawl spring action is presumably supplied by a ball and spring recessed into the handle, and the chosen spring tension gives the ratchet a very stiff action.

The pawl design is very similar to that used by Snap-On for its 1930s No. 71 series ratchets; however, unlike the Snap-On models, the Armstrong pawl is more-or-less permanently attached to the shifter with a pin. This would have made it very difficult to replace the pawl without special tools. (Snap-On used a press fit for the shifter, allowing for easy replacement of the ratchet parts when needed.)

The F-51 model was not listed in the 1935 catalog, but was offered by 1939. Based on the catalog availablility and the chrome finish, the manufacturing date for this example is probably in the range 1938-1941.

https://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/armstrong-bros-p3.html

 

[Faisal]

part 2

 

[Faisal]

this is a a 1/2-drive Armstrong 20-906 ratchet marked with a forged Strong-Arm logo, and with "Forged in U.S.A." on the reverse.

The overall length is 10.5 inches, and the finish is chrome plating.

 

[Faisal]

part 2

 

[Faisal]

this is Armstrong S-50 female-drive ratchet, marked "Armstrong Chicago" in forged raised letters with the Strong-Arm logo. The reverse is marked "Made in U.S.A." and "Drop Forged Steel", as shown in the inset. The overall length is 10.3 inches, and the finish is a heavy cadmium plating.

Armstrong drive tools were usually finished with chrome plating, so the cadmium finish indicates a likely manufacturing date of 1942-1945.

The ratchet mechanism has a 24-tooth gear and is held in place by a threaded cover plate.

[Armstrong S-50 1/2-Drive Ratchet]
Fig. 61. Armstrong S-50 1/2-Drive Ratchet, with Insets for Side View and Reverse Detail, ca. 1946-1947.
Fig. 61 shows another example of the Armstrong S-50 ratchet of somewhat later production, marked as above with forged raised letters "Armstrong Chicago" and the Strong-Arm logo, with "Made in U.S.A." and "Drop Forged Steel" on the reverse.

The overall length is 10.1 inches, and the finish is chrome plating with polished faces.

The drive plug in the ratchet is a model S-150, marked "Armaloy" and "Made in U.S.A." with the Strong-Arm logo.

This ratchet was acquired with a set of sockets that included both "Armaloy" and "Alloy Steel" markings, suggesting a manufacturing date around 1946-1947. The S-50 ratchet model remained in production at least until 1948, but was eventually superseded by the model SA-50, based on the flat shank design used for the SA-51.

https://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/armstrong-bros-p3.html

 

[Faisal]

part 2

 

[SquareLJ]

Faisal, I love your restorations. I just got a circle H Craftsman in the mail that I'm gonna clean up. I can smell the previous owners cigarettes in the lube on it.

 

[Faisal]

Faisal, I love your restorations. I just got a circle H Craftsman in the mail that I'm gonna clean up. I can smell the previous owners cigarettes in the lube on it.

Great!!! maybe the previous owner is hard worker

i am Very excited to see your restoration job

 

[Faisal]

The only way that I can see to remove the engraving is to sand the piece down. Unfortunately, that would also remove the Craftsman stamp and all the plating as well.

This is one of the reasons why I dislike engraving. It may help you identify your tools when the end up in someone else's box, but it destroys the value of the tool for the next guy.

I know it's very hard to remove the engraving but I will take this challenge

 

[madison069]

It might be possible to hide the engraving? I wonder if anyone used chrome paint to fill in the engraving and maybe it blends in?

Just a thought!

 

[Faisal]

It might be possible to hide the engraving? I wonder if anyone used chrome paint to fill in the engraving and maybe it blends in?

Just a thought!

you are reading my mind

 

[jakemac]

I'd like to see the results of the experimentation. Veeely Interestingk.

 

[softailgarage]

It might be possible to hide the engraving? I wonder if anyone used chrome paint to fill in the engraving and maybe it blends in?

Just a thought!

This is where electroless nickel plating would work. You could use a masking agent on the surrounding area and fill in the engraving. Don't ask me to name the masking agent, it's been too many years. I will tell you it's red and kinda watery, I'll go thru my old notes and try to find it. How much time does it take you to do a ratchet? I notice you said you use pick tools, too remove grease & gunk from the nooks and crannies I presume. You should probably invest in a good ultrasonic cleaner, it would most likely cut your labor time in half. Thats some very nice work Faisal.

 

[Faisal]

This is where electroless nickel plating would work. You could use a masking agent on the surrounding area and fill in the engraving. Don't ask me to name the masking agent, it's been too many years. I will tell you it's red and kinda watery, I'll go thru my old notes and try to find it. How much time does it take you to do a ratchet? I notice you said you use pick tools, too remove grease & gunk from the nooks and crannies I presume. You should probably invest in a good ultrasonic cleaner, it would most likely cut your labor time in half. Thats some very nice work Faisal.

its depend of the ratchet condition but mostly 2 days and using for cleaning teeth brush and paint thinner
i am using pick tools just for take out or install small part like spring or other part

 

[Cdstahlman]

Re: Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!!!!

This thread is like ***********. I've "restored" every ratchet I've gotten, and have a very nice selection of snap on (no.7 up through sv71 and then ferrets and newer) and craftsman. (Flying V, and newer, some BE)

I'll have to toss some pics up, unfortunately all of mine are after photos now.

Where on gods green earth did u get a bucket of super lube at?

I'm looking at a snap on lr42 but the directional selection lever is definitely not original, and finding the correct one would be next to impossible.

 

[Faisal]

Re: Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!!!!

This thread is like ***********. I've "restored" every ratchet I've gotten, and have a very nice selection of snap on (no.7 up through sv71 and then ferrets and newer) and craftsman. (Flying V, and newer, some BE)

I'll have to toss some pics up, unfortunately all of mine are after photos now.

Where on gods green earth did u get a bucket of super lube at?

I'm looking at a snap on lr42 but the directional selection lever is definitely not original, and finding the correct one would be next to impossible.

hi

i got super lube from eBay 13 $ and lets see your collection .

still i have a lot of vintage ratchet i will put it here very soon

 

[Cdstahlman]

That's the majority of them, I have 4 tool boxes like this, all vintage and full.

I have a few more ratchets and things coming, garage is full. My name is Chris, and I have a tool addiction....

I also have old chainsaws, mainly stihl, and 4 lawnboy mowers, and too much old stuff...

 

[Cdstahlman]

Re: Show us Your Vintage ratchet before and after restoration!!!!!



Sorry, this is random, but I have a lot of organization to do. If you look at the pics you can see all the hidden **** like the blower, the block grinder, vintage air tools, and other stuff lurking around.....

I never claimed to be neat

 

[Faisal]

That's the majority of them, I have 4 tool boxes like this, all vintage and full.

I have a few more ratchets and things coming, garage is full. My name is Chris, and I have a tool addiction....

I also have old chainsaws, mainly stihl, and 4 lawnboy mowers, and too much old stuff...[/QUOTE]

WOOOW that is really cool collection ,i am sure if i stay in your garage i will find treasure of tools

looking for more and more and more pictures