Tig welding aluminum

[Aquaticbob]

Just got a TIG welder, been doing just fine on steel. Just repaired an oil pan as a matter of fact. So I went and got some aluminum flat bar because I wanted to start practicing on some aluminum.

I set the machine to AC, wire brushed the aluminum till it was nice and shiny, was set to like 75% or so balance, about 100hz would be my guess, 2% lanthanated 3/32" tungsten, about 1/8" tungsten stick out, #4 cup. I pull the trigger and it starts popping and hissing, and the tungsten just instantly balls up into the cup, turning the metal nice and black and not melting the aluminum whatsoever. I'm a little lost at this point. I feel like the gas coverage is good, and I don't think I've contaminated the tungsten. Any guesses?

 

[dr_clyde]

I know you said you have the machine set to AC, but from the symptoms you're describing, it sure sounds like you're welding on reverse polarity. Are you sure its on AC?


What amps are you running? If you are too hot for your tungsten, it can ball if you have too much EN on your balance as well. Set it for 50% and try again.

 

[dr_clyde]

The other thing to consider is that #4 is a pretty small cup size, and you could be getting insufficient gas coverage. Sometimes if you try to push too much gas through a small opening, it creates a low pressure zone right at the cup opening and draws in atmospheric air. You want a smooth lamellar flow of gas, turbulence draws in outside air.

Try putting a #7 or #8 cup on with about 20 CFH or so. I'd run an 1/8" tungsten if you have one, better amperage capacity on AC.

 

[Shadowdog500]

+1 on checking all your settings again.

What tig welder do you have that has a trigger??

Chris

 

[Aquaticbob]

I know you said you have the machine set to AC, but from the symptoms you're describing, it sure sounds like you're welding on reverse polarity. Are you sure its on AC?


What amps are you running? If you are too hot for your tungsten, it can ball if you have too much EN on your balance as well. Set it for 50% and try again.

I'm positive it's set to AC, I thought the same thing right away. The cup is a point of concern, I should get a bigger one on there. I was only at like 90 amps, so I figured I was well within the range of the tungsten.

 

[zkling]

Does it work fine on DC welding steel? On what machine do you have?

 

[Aquaticbob]

Does it work fine on DC welding steel? On what machine do you have?

It does DC weld steel just fine. Switched to ac and tried it on steel to make sure it was switching. Pretty much did the same thing as the aluminum. Have an Everlast 185, I'm pretty sure I'm doing something wrong. Here is a picture of the aluminum

 

[dr_clyde]

Having looked at the control panel on the interwebz I would try adjusting your balance toward penetration. Like, at least 50%. You are in the amperage range for your electrode, so that should be ok.

What are you using for a remote? You said trigger, but I'm not familiar with this welder.

I found this picture of the front panel. Is your setup just like this? Because this looks like a perfect setup for thinner aluminum TIG.

 

[youngnstudly]

Set your A/C balance for 30%. Everlast bases their A/C balance percentages off of electrode POSITIVE, not the more common electrode negative.

Read the manual and it will clearly explain some of the subtle differences between Everlast and it's competitors welder settings.

Recheck your leads to verify that you have them set up correctly. It's REALLY easy to overlook, even for someone like myself who has been welding for almost 15 years, after you stick weld, then tig (and forget to swap leads back).

Check that your flowmeter is set to the proper flow for the units of measure it measures.

Get a larger cup, or even a gas lens, depending on what you intend on welding.

Much less important (right now), but important in the long run, is your wire brush. Make sure you are using a stainless brush that you ONLY USE on aluminum. Acetone works well for wiping the filler rod and base material clean.

I have no issue using a 3/32" 2% lan. tungsten up to 200 amps when welding aluminum, but half the time I use an 1/8" tungsten for anything more than 180 amps, just because I have the better gas lens setup for aluminum in a mayo jar, so swapping over is a cinch. I like at LEAST a #6 cup, but normally run a gas lens setup with a #7 cup.

Andy

 

[Aquaticbob]

Having looked at the control panel on the interwebz I would try adjusting your balance toward penetration. Like, at least 50%. You are in the amperage range for your electrode, so that should be ok.

What are you using for a remote? You said trigger, but I'm not familiar with this welder.

I found this picture of the front panel. Is your setup just like this? Because this looks like a perfect setup for thinner aluminum TIG.

This is what my front panel looks like. I'll go for some more penetration on my next run. Unfortunately the pedal I got doesn't seem to work, so I need to figure that one out. I have a trigger on my torch for now that came with the torch that I use. It's on or off, so there isn't any amp control in the trigger.

 

[dr_clyde]

I bet you have the output contactor set of lift arc. That doesn't work so hot on AC.

 

[Aquaticbob]

I bet you have the output contactor set of lift arc. That doesn't work so hot on AC.

For sure set to HF, and tried it on the steel as well, no go on that one either. I haven't ever lift started, only HF

 

[dr_clyde]

Well, my only other idea would be your remote, though I'm not sure why that would have and significant effect.

I've used foot pedals and momentary finger controls on AC, so unless your trigger somehow changes how the arc starts, I'm out of ideas without personally being there.

I've never welded with an everlast, so I don't have any insight on them from an operational perspective.

 

[Aquaticbob]

Well, my only other idea would be your remote, though I'm not sure why that would have and significant effect.

I've used foot pedals and momentary finger controls on AC, so unless your trigger somehow changes how the arc starts, I'm out of ideas without personally being there.

I've never welded with an everlast, so I don't have any insight on them from an operational perspective.

I was just commenting on the foot pedal not working above. The trigger function on the torch works just fine. They are totally separate plug ins. I just gotta think I've done something wrong somewhere and I need someone to see every step

 

[youngnstudly]

Set your A/C balance for 30%. Everlast bases their A/C balance percentages off of electrode POSITIVE, not the more common electrode negative.

Read the manual and it will clearly explain some of the subtle differences between Everlast and it's competitors welder settings.

TAKE THE HINT! Some of your Everlast settings are different than "normal" (big brand) welders, which is a good deal of your issue.

You might need this (see link below) instead of that silly (USELESS) 6 page "manual" that the factory sends with their Everlast welders.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/sites/everlastgenerators/files/downloads/PowerTig 185.pdf

I don't know WHY they can't send the full version with the unit, but what the heck do I know about oversea's manufacturing in the first place?

That was a rhetorical question, don't be a wise guy!

Andy

 

[Aquaticbob]

TAKE THE HINT! Some of your Everlast settings are different than "normal" (big brand) welders, which is a good deal of your issue.

You might need this (see link below) instead of that silly (USELESS) 6 page "manual" that the factory sends with their Everlast welders.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/sites/everlastgenerators/files/downloads/PowerTig 185.pdf

I don't know WHY they can't send the full version with the unit, but what the heck do I know about oversea's manufacturing in the first place?

That was a rhetorical question, don't be a wise guy!

Andy

Andy, I am feeling a little slow since I missed your original post! I'll make sure to try what you suggested. I'll also print off that manual and give it a read. Sorry I missed it!

 

[youngnstudly]

Andy, I am feeling a little slow since I missed your original post! I'll make sure to try what you suggested. I'll also print off that manual and give it a read. Sorry I missed it!

Haha, no problem. I'm sure that once you get things figured out, you'll love your welder. Tig welding aluminum is FUN!

Andy

 

[Aquaticbob]

Haha, no problem. I'm sure that once you get things figured out, you'll love your welder. Tig welding aluminum is FUN!

Andy

I love it so far, I have been avoiding my MIG welder even when it's more practical to use. Obviously it's a little frustrating that I keep ******* the aluminum up, but I'll get it. Ever since getting my first welder a year ago I've been hooked. It's saved me so much money, and both units have already "paid" for themselves.

 

[WILD-BILL]

I have an Everlast 225 LX and I had issues with the pedal as well. They then contracted with SSC Controls to have them make an upgarde pedal after one of the memebers of Evrlasts Forum had one made.

I bought this pedal for mine and the difference was night and day.

Check to see if it will work with the welder you have and if it does I highly recomend getting it.

 

[WILD-BILL]

Also, What type of Aluminum are you trying to weld.

It looks like the stuff that is found at HD or Lowes.

If that is the case I will say that while I'm not sure what alloy it is that stuff welds like dog ****.

 

[Aquaticbob]

Also, What type of Aluminum are you trying to weld.

It looks like the stuff that is found at HD or Lowes.

If that is the case I will say that while I'm not sure what alloy it is that stuff welds like dog ****.

Honestly have 0 clue as to the type of aluminum. It is basically the hardware store aluminum I'm sure though. Instead of getting it from HD or Lowes I got it from a more industrial supply type store hoping they had some better aluminum. I posted over on welding web (just joined there) about the pedal in the everlast section. Kinda disappointing it didn't work. Was looking forward to some pedal action

 

[Aquaticbob]

Turned the balance more towards penetration and now it just sounds like a rapid clicking, and doesn't seem to get the aluminum to puddle up. The tungsten instantly balled up, however didn't start just melting away into the torch like in the past.

 

[bullnerd]

Along with these guys suggestions, check out Weldingtipsandtricks.com, I think he does a setup video on your welder. Good luck.

Also, how about some pics of your setup, welder and bench.

 

[youngnstudly]

Turned the balance more towards penetration and now it just sounds like a rapid clicking, and doesn't seem to get the aluminum to puddle up. The tungsten instantly balled up, however didn't start just melting away into the torch like in the past.

I don't recall offhand what the lowest setting on the balance knob is, but turn the knob to the 9 O'clock position and give it a shot. Slowly work clockwise until you start getting better results (don't go past the 12 O'clock position).

Secondly, make sure your torch lead is plugged into the (-) receiver and your ground lead is plugged into the (+) receiver.

Post where your setting for the flowmeter is at, and what the unit of measurement on your meter is. I think that cup could still be an issue, but you should be able to weld at least a little with noticeable improvement if you have the Argon flow in the ballpark.

Andy

 

[zkling]

I thought those chinese boxes were supposed to be easy to use.

 

[Aquaticbob]

Along with these guys suggestions, check out Weldingtipsandtricks.com, I think he does a setup video on your welder. Good luck.



Also, how about some pics of your setup, welder and bench.

I'll have to do that tomorrow, just left my shop. My bench is temporary right now. It's an old wood desk with a metal grate on top of it lol. I have checked out welding tips and tricks, he makes some great videos, I even asked for a tig finger for Christmas!

I don't recall offhand what the lowest setting on the balance knob is, but turn the knob to the 9 O'clock position and give it a shot. Slowly work clockwise until you start getting better results (don't go past the 12 O'clock position).



Secondly, make sure your torch lead is plugged into the (-) receiver and your ground lead is plugged into the (+) receiver.



Post where your setting for the flowmeter is at, and what the unit of measurement on your meter is. I think that cup could still be an issue, but you should be able to weld at least a little with noticeable improvement if you have the Argon flow in the ballpark.



Andy

Tig is in the negative, ground in positive. I am going to get some more cups tomorrow and some other goodies. I think my gas flow was a little inadequate though as I turned it down a bit. I think I went to about 9 and that's what got it clicking and not really doing much. Here's another picture of the aluminum

 

[youngnstudly]

Honestly have 0 clue as to the type of aluminum. It is basically the hardware store aluminum I'm sure though. Instead of getting it from HD or Lowes I got it from a more industrial supply type store hoping they had some better aluminum. I posted over on welding web (just joined there) about the pedal in the everlast section. Kinda disappointing it didn't work. Was looking forward to some pedal action

There really isn't much to those pedals, and if you want to get help with fixing it, try going onto Everlast's forum and doing a search. Some folks on there have really improved the pedal's function and eliminated the belt slip that is so common for Everlast's pedals. The owner of Everlast (Oleg) and many of their US and Canada based support/repair team members frequent the Everlast forum too. When the pedal's work, they aren't THAT terrible to use. Both of mine have worked pretty decently.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/forums/forum.php?

I am hoping to get a SSC pedal and the rest of the items I need to build the water cooler for my Everlast. An upgraded torch would be nice too!

I thought those chinese boxes were supposed to be easy to use.

No, they are supposed to be EASY TO PAY FOR! If you're experienced in welding, the Chinese welders usually require a small learning curve before you become familiar with their settings and such.

If you're NOT experienced in welding, a Chinese welder is probably the equivalent of being air-dropped into Japan while everyone around you speaks German with a thick Spanish accent.


Andy

 

[bobadame]

Are you using argon?

 

[Aquaticbob]

There really isn't much to those pedals, and if you want to get help with fixing it, try going onto Everlast's forum and doing a search. Some folks on there have really improved the pedal's function and eliminated the belt slip that is so common for Everlast's pedals. The owner of Everlast (Oleg) and many of their US and Canada based support/repair team members frequent the Everlast forum too. When the pedal's work, they aren't THAT terrible to use. Both of mine have worked pretty decently.



http://www.everlastgenerators.com/forums/forum.php?



I am hoping to get a SSC pedal and the rest of the items I need to build the water cooler for my Everlast. An upgraded torch would be nice too!



Andy

I think that's what I'll be doing tomorrow. Really wanted to start using a pedal. I'm going to be playing around more with the settings as well, gotta get it dialed in

And yes, I'm using 100% argon

 

[WILD-BILL]

For those of you with an Everlast, I would also highly recomend replacing the ground clamp.

After I did the arc was much smoother and more stable especially at lower amps.

 

[K13]

For those of you with an Everlast, I would also highly recomend replacing the ground clamp.

After I did the arc was much smoother and more stable especially at lower amps.

Sounds like a great machine replace half the parts and then it will work fine.

 

[1/2 Cup]

For those of you with an Everlast, I would also highly recomend replacing the ground clamp.

After I did the arc was much smoother and more stable especially at lower amps.

As above

I find that the earth clamp is probably the most over looked issues (may be not in this case ) with any type of welding period.
A good earth is essential at all times.
If your earth clamp get gets warm or hot you the piece is clearly not grounded well.

Warm = resistance = voltage drop = more amps required.

Regards

 

[Aquaticbob]

As above

I find that the earth clamp is probably the most over looked issue (may be not in this case ) with any type of welding period.
A good earth is essential at all times.
If your earth clamp get gets warm or hot you the piece is clearly not grounded well.

Warm = resistance = voltage drop = more amps required.

Regards

Went to my nearby welding supply to get some more gas nozzles and lenses, was also going to look at grounds. Unfortunately they were closed! I worked on getting my TIG pedal working. The continuity was good on the plug, so I was inspecting the on off switch and it didn't seem to actually be engaging on the pedal (it's a micro switch that gets pressed to off when you let off the pedal). So now the TIG pedal works great, just need to get to welding the aluminum right.

Which after further inspection from one of my guys, we believe I don't have enough shielding, and my first problem might have been too much cleaning and too much gas flow.

 

[youngnstudly]

For those of you with an Everlast, I would also highly recomend replacing the ground clamp.

After I did the arc was much smoother and more stable especially at lower amps.

Great advice! The ground clamp from 2013 was awesome on my little 160STH, and the new 2014 design for my 250EX is cumbersome and not nearly as user friendly. Has a really cheap feel to it.

The regulator is another thing that a lot of Everlast owners recommend replacing, but I haven't gotten around to that either.....You're supposed to notice smoother arc starts afterwards, but I just pump the pedal and use the post flow as preflow to eliminate the issue.

Sounds like a great machine replace half the parts and then it will work fine.

You're paying for the machine and the awesome warranty, the factory just throws the accessories in to complete the package...For 1/3 to 1/2 the price, most Everlast owners expect to make some upgrades to their welders to have options or improvements the factory didn't offer.

Miller and Lincoln owners do it too, so it's not like the parts they include with their units are a "One size fits all and impresses everyone."

Andy

 

[Aquaticbob]

There is the front of the welder. That seemed to give me the least ****** quality. I was set to 20 SCFH on the flow with a #7 cup with a gas lens

Still getting popping from the weld, and it doesn't puddle. It starts to crater and burn the area really quickly. Next step is a video

 

[dr_clyde]

Try turning your frequency down to around 60. This is the baseline from transformer-rectifier machines. I find sometimes on my dynasty the arc has difficulty starting on super high or low frequencies.

 

[Aquaticbob]

Try turning your frequency down to around 60. This is the baseline from transformer-rectifier machines. I find sometimes on my dynasty the arc has difficulty starting on super high or low frequencies.

I will try that next. At this point, I have to think I am not cleaning the aluminum enough or something. It just fries

 

[R.Anderson]

I will try that next. At this point, I have to think I am not cleaning the aluminum enough or something. It just fries

It looks clean enough to get a decent weld, unless there is film of oil or something on it but I doubt that.

My guess is the shielding gas or there is a problem with the welder. Make sure the tungsten collet is in the correct way. If it is backwards it blocks the gas, this is a common mistake and seems to be the last thing checked with people learning TIG.

If not the shielding gas and it is welding just fine with DC leads me to think there may be a problem with the circuit that controls the AC balance. May be as simple as a faulty potentiometer(the AC balance knob) or more complex component/s or short/break on the control board. If the welder is faulty I hope the warranty is still good with it. I think it was a 1 year warranty that came with my Everlast PP205. Their customer service via email and phone is good give them a call or email they will walk you through some troubleshooting.


As with the pedal I highly suggest the upgrade to the SSC pedal that Everlast sells on their website. Worth every penny its light and day compared to the factory one.

Also if you really get into it, try upgrading to a Weldcraft TIG torch or torches

 

[Aquaticbob]

It looks clean enough to get a decent weld, unless there is film of oil or something on it but I doubt that.

My guess is the shielding gas or there is a problem with the welder. Make sure the tungsten collet is in the correct way. If it is backwards it blocks the gas, this is a common mistake and seems to be the last thing checked with people learning TIG.

If not the shielding gas and it is welding just fine with DC leads me to think there may be a problem with the circuit that controls the AC balance. May be as simple as a faulty potentiometer(the AC balance knob) or more complex component/s or short/break on the control board. If the welder is faulty I hope the warranty is still good with it. I think it was a 1 year warranty that came with my Everlast PP205. Their customer service via email and phone is good give them a call or email they will walk you through some troubleshooting.


As with the pedal I highly suggest the upgrade to the SSC pedal that Everlast sells on their website. Worth every penny its light and day compared to the factory one.

Also if you really get into it, try upgrading to a Weldcraft TIG torch or torches

Thanks for the tips. I posted on welding web just now to see if anyone there has some tips. Fortunately I have the pedal working, and will roll with that for now. I want to get a flex head torch already (tried to get one today, store didn't have one in stock). I love welding, and I know I'm just going to keep going with it, so I'm not afraid of buying more accessories for it

 

[R.Anderson]

Thanks for the tips. I posted on welding web just now to see if anyone there has some tips. Fortunately I have the pedal working, and will roll with that for now. I want to get a flex head torch already (tried to get one today, store didn't have one in stock). I love welding, and I know I'm just going to keep going with it, so I'm not afraid of buying more accessories for it

Weldcraft Flex head torch . . . love em have two of em I replaced the cheap hose and cable as well but I had to make my own adapter for power and gas. Ebay is good spot to get all of it cheaper than a WS store.