Finding a contractor to lift garage roof?

[JimR1998]

I posted about this building before... a structure that I thought was a great asset when I bought the property is at risk of turning into a money pit.

It's an unfinished block outbuilding that I'm looking to turn into a 2-car garage. Basically, we're looking to raise the height of everything inside and out by 3' to resolve grade issues (it's too low on the site).

Three contractors so far are not keen on raising the roof and would rather just tear off and rebuild. That's $5000+ and wasting a roof I paid to have put on. A house moving company said easy job but they charge that much to mobilize a crew.

It's a straight gable roof, 25x30, with new scissor trusses. What's a reasonable amount and time-frame for someone to do this job? I'm in southeast PA (just west of Philly) in case someone can recommend.

Going to try the Amish guys next...

 

[rsanter]

How about you do the roof raising?

If it was me and it was made of trusses. I would screw 2x6s flat to the bottom of all the trusses. I would pull and or cut nails as well as remove some trim as needed to disconnect the roof from the walls.
I would use cribbing at four to six locations and then use bottle jacks to raise the room as an whole and add cribbing as needed till I am to the height I wanted.

I would have the wall extensions pre built before the raising so I can install then as soon as the roof is up.
The next problem you will need to counter is the fact that you are installing a ' hinge point' in the wall. You will need to deal with this to avoid failure and bowing out of the walls.
There are several ways to deal with this. Sheathing, installing floor to ceiling posts at all corners and in the middle of the long walls, or adding floor to ceiling posts into the existing walls

Bob

 

[NUTTSGT]

Is your plan to add a short stub wall in like Bob mentions or are you going to lay several courses of block to raise the height ?

 

[Streetbu]

If the foundation is OK and it has trusses, I'd raise it myself. Get as much done as you can before you actually start lifting it. Several jackposts, blocking and lots of trips between each post & you should be able to lift it by yourself in a few hours.

 

[JimR1998]

I have 4 young kids and barely get enough time with them as it is. Plus I'd need to find reliable helpers for a full weekend which is almost impossible. The wife will not let me attempt this... says there are too many projects for me inside the house.

I was thinking they'd use a wood wall, 4' tall with 4' of block at the base-- basically, a hinge right in the middle. Perfect, right? To tie it together, sheathe the outside top to bottom at least as a start. I can barely find a contractor willing to raise, let alone lay courses of block as the roof is lifted.

The last contractor said he would defer to the municipality for if/how they wanted it tied together. That didn't instill a lot of confidence, and it's an issue either way for a re-roof vs a lift.

 

[Playwme]

I can imagine that for a contractor this isn't as simple a job as you might imagine. You need a fairly good structure to hold the roof up while you build the wall extensions safety, and they're also working with some other contractors work. That's where they charge the extra to avoid unexpected hiccups that will cause them to loose money on the job. The also need to cover potential warranty issues

If it were me I'd disassemble the whole roof, extend the walls, and then use the materials to rebuild. Then again, an Aussie roof would be metal screwed down where yours is probably 6 layers of various materials nailed and stapled and all overlapping.

 

[jack stand]

Pretty straight forward job actually. Raising it is kinda obvious as to what need to happen but my concern as a contractor would be not "loosing" the roof during the lift, this would require a bunch of solid cribbing (and support beams) from the ground up……. or a crane for a 1/2 day, but this would require some beams to support the roof during the lift. As for the concern of a "hinge" point be added to your wall, at near square (25'x30'), a solidly built & sheathed wall with some additional diagonal corner bracing in the wall and a firm connection of the new wall to the block, you'll be fine. There are some wild "connectors" like from Simpson made for high wind & seismic conditions that would work in addition if you or the local "code guy" has a concern. These lifting concerns might be (reasonably IMHO) pushing the job close to your $5000 quotes anyway.

 

[JimR1998]

Left a few messages, let's see who calls me back tomorrow.

Just for entertainment, suppose I did do this myself...

Would it be inadvisable to use hi-lift jacks on the floor with an 8' 4x4 going to the support beam under the trusses? I'd have the 4x4 attached to the beam and bolted through the jack lip so it doesn't kick out. I have access to a few (maybe 4-5) of these jacks already and they only run about $100 to buy new.

To stop the roof from moving sideways, I would cut the existing 1' wood knee wall every other support and extend those cut studs down against the block wall to act as a guide when the roof is going up.

Once the lifting is complete, I'd want to shore up the beams to take weight off the jacks. Has anyone used Ellis clamps before? They wedge two peices of wood tight together and stop them from sliding. They seem strong, quick to setup, and inexpensive.

At that point I could prepare the top of the block for my pre-built wall extensions and then lower the roof.

I'm trying to get away from cribbing because I like the idea of at least 6 jacking positions (3 per side). 11' feet of cribbing x 3 crib towers per side x 2 sides is a lot of wood! I would only want something safe though.

Ellis Clamp

http://ellisok.com/ellisok/products_shores4x4.html

 

[nolimits76]

Being a bridge contractor, I've dealt with some "bridge jacking" before which would probably be similar to lifting your roof. The concept is simple, but having the proper equipment, support beams and engineering can be difficult and time consuming. And on a bridge site, many times half the fight is getting a good foundation to place the jacks on, which sometimes require drilled shafts, etc.

Overall, while such a feat can be accomplished, it's usually slow and expensive. There is considerable risk, so as the contractor, I put plenty of profit on the item to make the risk/reward equation in our favor.

To me, if I was spending the same $$ either way, I'd rather demo and go back new myself. Then you don't have to worry about a hack job, and will get exactly what you want.

Really, at this point, it sounds like getting it done right is the most important aspect. It may be frustrating to rip out what you already built -- but sounds like you rushed into trying to fix a problem w/o thoroughly analyzing all the issues. Don't make the same mistake twice. Despite whatever it costs now, trying to skimp will only cost you more (both in $$ and frustration) in the long term.

 

[CNGsaves]

Did you get a quote from Amish ??? I can guarantee that they'll have enough wood/cribbing and get the job done in Pennsylvania.

Also, GJer's need to SEE what garage you want to jack up.

 

[LB-1911]

Did you get a quote from Amish ??? I can guarantee that they'll have enough wood/cribbing and get the job done in Pennsylvania.

Also, GJer's need to SEE what garage you want to jack up.

Photos from the OP's previously mentioned discussion

Additional photos @
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3953462&postcount=1

 

[CNGsaves]

I'm a long time reader and wanted to get some unbiased opinions on my situation. I very much admire the can-do initiative of people here but I have to contract everything out because I'm a slow poke and with kids I have no time. Anyway...

Current state: Hollow cinderblock outbuilding on rubble foundation, roughly 25x28. Structure seems solid, truss roof is new, concrete slab inside is 2-3" thick but no cracks. Built in the 1940's. Has new water and 100amp electrical hookup.

Goal is a 2-car garage. Thoughts on keeping what we've got vs. tearing it down and building exactly what we want?

The main issues with the current building:
- poor siting (about 3' low and at an odd angle)
- thin slab may crack under the weight of 2 cars
- structure needs sealing up and a lot of lipstick (siding, soffit, gutters, trim, etc) to make it look nice.

Option #1:
We got a rough estimate of about $10k for making it "garage ready". That mainly includes the "lipstick" above, a concrete apron at the entrance with drainage, opening in block and framing for doors, and site work to extend the driveway 15ft to the building (it will drop 30" in elevation over that 15'). Does not include: the asphalt driveway itself or any interior finishing (I will get by with the existing switched clamp lights and outlets for the time being). Hopefully the floor doesn't crack up too much before I can afford to get it redone.

Option #2:
A 25x30 building, stick built, on a new 4" concrete slab will run $25K including demolition and site work.

I'm planning to add a 10x12 garden shed to the left of the current building, but that could be incorporated into a larger garage if we went with option #2. Right now that's going to involve building up the slope and pouring an oversized pad (15x20ish) which will probably be $2000 plus the shed.

I put some money into the current structure and hate to throw it away, which is why I'd like some unbiased views. I'm also suspect of what the final cost would be for #2.

So-- tear down or fix up?

pic#1 - gable side, placement for 2 garage doors
pic#2 - location of proposed shed, brought up to grade of building
pic#3 - yard view
pic#4 - back view, tyvek tearing off

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3953462&postcount=1

OP . . . you'll have to stick with a thread and go with it, as didn't realize you had prior thread with all the above information.

That's relatively easy fix adding block to make the garage taller, and knocking out areas you want garage door and put in header.

+1 to fix what you've got !!

 

[volleyball]

With 10k You are going to have to do this yourself or just live with it.
If this is a hire out job, let the contractors do the job they want. And pay them.

If this were my project. I'd tear off all the shingles and tar paper. Then cover the roof with tarps , heavy mill plastic or some other lightweight material.
Get a bunch of pallets and build my own cribbing. Some 2x12's attached to the trusses to tie them together. Box in the cripple walls with plywood. Lift the wall using some HF bottle jacks on the cribbing a little at a time. Once raised. I'd attach a bunch of guy wires on all sides to keep the roof from moving while I added blocks or easier a new wood wall on top of the block. Lower roof and strap it down to the block.
Pallets can then be given away.

 

[bczygan]

First thing is I would not build a wood wall on top of the block unless it was at least a 2x6 wall or better.

In fact, I would just continue all the way up with block.

I would use the existing short wood wall as a lifting mechanism. With an LVL attached to the outside, it turns into a beam. This means less lifting points are needed. And you can jack under the LVL, which puts your jacks outside of the wall, and out of the way of the new masonry wall work. Also, 4x4's can be bolted to the outside of the block walls, to sit the jacks on, and for cribbing. All this keeps the roof and existing short wood wall as one 3 dimensional object, and keeps it stabilized by the existing block wall. You could even add a few 4x4's with an adjustable strap, to keep the structure mechanically fastened to the walls.

And since block can be installed in sections, you can leave space for cribbing as you work your way up. Then move the cribbing and fill with block. You should never be more than a course or two above block. Remember to tie the new block to existing by using vertical rebar and filling cores. And use horizontal steel reinforcing as well.

The only thing I might be worried about, is if there is any outward thrust from those scissor trusses. There shouldn't be, but I would tie a bunch of the middle ones together with cables before detaching the roof and wood wall structure from the block wall.

After the block wall is at the desired height, the decision could be made either to keep the existing short wood wall and just lower the roof/wall structure down on the block and fasten it in place, or to cut the wall free and dispose of it before lowering the roof.

Bill

 

[sberry]

I am babysitting so tolerate me. You are finding out about contracting. My neighbor figured it out and did a new addition himself. The scope of this is small, you need to shop around for a little help.
There are about a dozen ways to do this, some for alone some with help. Pallets could work and I tend to do this alternately side to side. 4 guys with shims and pinch bars could also lever it up.

 

[sberry]

You could pour some insulation down the blocks as you went and I like wood as you could insulate it.

 

[rburke65]

It will be interesting to hear a bid if you are able to get to contact the Amish like you are thinking. Good luck with this.

 

[404]

I would jack up 1 side at a time from inside, add block.

In the pic the first jacking happens from inside along the yellow edge till roof is in green position. Add block, set down, do other side.

 

[ishiboo]

I would jack the entire thing at once.

Beg, borrow or steal two steel beams or LVLs to run the length on each side. Steel would be basically like new when you were done and re-sell-able, so only part of the purchase price.

Use a composite post made of sandwiched 2x6s or 2x8s (making them roughly square) to hold the weight in each corner, along with a 20 ton jack on top. Those too can be removed and reused when you are done.

The jacking is not all that difficult, costly or complex. What you need to remember is wind conditions. Wind can and will pick up and move something with that weight/profile. So whether block or wood walls, you will need to have it back down and secured when you are not working.

This is sometihng that to be cost effective, you really have to do yourself. IMO.

 

[ishiboo]

BTW... the posts need a stabilizer under them to keep them from tipping over, obviously, if you don't bolt them to the wall.

 

[404]

Jacking one side a a time provides the needed stability. No extra stabilizers needed.

 

[38Chevy454]

I would jack up 1 side at a time from inside, add block.

In the pic the first jacking happens from inside along the yellow edge till roof is in green position. Add block, set down, do other side.

That is what I was thinking as the easy DIY method. Do about 1 ft each side at a time, alternating until at desired height. This way half the roof is always (somewhat) anchored and held in position while you do the other side.

You still need some type of beam to jack up on each side, but let gravity help you with half being supported by the wall at each step. Add some temp braces at each step so roof does not slide out of position.

 

[ishiboo]

If you want to wait for each course to dry before you lift the other side, go ahead... but that will turn this into a long process. You need minimally more stuff to do it all at once.

 

[volleyball]

It is a pain jacking enough for 1 block at a time. No room to set the block. Do you want to lift block and install at chest height?
I mentioned guy wires which will make it more stable and keep wind from tossing it.
Someone could slide the roof to the left a few feet. Do the right side wall along with going around the corner. Lift roof and slide it back on top of new wall. Then loosely strap it down. Lift the left side taller than the wall will be left and build that wall. Then the back wall and front wall and then lower it onto structure.
Instead of buying lvl or steel, maybe a floor truss is less money. Plywood on the side and you have a strong beam that you could cut to length if they don't come in the length you need.

 

[JimR1998]

Someone could slide the roof to the left a few feet. Do the right side wall along with going around the corner. Lift roof and slide it back on top of new wall. Then loosely strap it down. Lift the left side taller than the wall will be left and build that wall. Then the back wall and front wall and then lower it onto structure.

Eeek. Sounds unnecessarily difficult to me. If you can lift the roof up and over 3 feet, you might as well lift the whole thing at once. Then there would be a lot of tugging to get it square when you're done.

Needing a big beam makes it a much harder DIY project. I'm thinking sistered 2x10x16's with a 3rd jack point in the middle would do the job, no? It doesn't need to survive a snowfall, just a few hours in the air. Once it's fully jacked I'd probably shore it in a few more locations just to be safe.

I called an Amish guy and he's anxious to take a look. He's coming this weekend.

I'm determined to find someone to do it, and I know I will kick myself when I see how easy it really is. In addition to the roof lifting, there's $10k+ worth of associated work so I hope I can make it worth their while.

 

[machsnell]

Jim you are on it. Amish will be able to do well and affordably. Esp with associated work.

You dont need or want metal i beams. LVL or sisterd 2x10s would do it in a heartbeat.

I moved my whole 24 x 24 garage with LVLs and sisterd 2x10s with walls and all in a few hours with three bobcats. we spent some time cross bracing and cutting off from concrete piers but the two sides had the beams to lift and hold together and it made it easy. We moved it 60 feet with a 6 foot lower grade.

mine was easier than you roof but the 2x10s would work well. you just really need a few good framers to cut and brace roof and form knee walls and strap it back down.

Good luck

 

[volleyball]

I mentioned the cribbing first and lifting it straight up. If as mentioned the wind was a big issue, then I offered a way to keep it low.
Do the Amish do block work? The big issue is tieing the old block to the new wall and then to the roof.
You can do wood this time of year. Mortar is going to need heaters and tents.

 

[404]

If you want to wait for each course to dry before you lift the other side, go ahead... but that will turn this into a long process. You need minimally more stuff to do it all at once.

Masons don't let a course dry before they set the next one. I bet that roof weights a lot less than a few courses of block.

 

[404]

It is a pain jacking enough for 1 block at a time. No room to set the block. Do you want to lift block and install at chest height?
I mentioned guy wires which will make it more stable and keep wind from tossing it.
Someone could slide the roof to the left a few feet. Do the right side wall along with going around the corner. Lift roof and slide it back on top of new wall. Then loosely strap it down. Lift the left side taller than the wall will be left and build that wall. Then the back wall and front wall and then lower it onto structure.
Instead of buying lvl or steel, maybe a floor truss is less money. Plywood on the side and you have a strong beam that you could cut to length if they don't come in the length you need.

Lift the roof higher so there is plenty of room to set block. Rent a scaffold to stand on to set the block.

 

[volleyball]

If you raise it high enough, you lose the stability that you think you get by keeping it on one side. Wind gets underneath and it is firewood.

When I laid my last block wall, I used pallets stacked. Then some boards to span the gaps. A few long screws and it gets solid real fast.