carbide burrs.

[Harrison2]

I have a project that requires undoing about 10 spot welds on steel however I don't want to drill them out as I want to keep the panel at the back intact and its in a confined space.

So im thinking of using a carbide burr, I read various threads, looked at various types and styles of burrs. Ive used them before but mainly for opening up holes or dressing edges.

This supposed guide conflicted things which I read on here in regards to use of double cut and single cut.

http://www.eternaltools.com/blog/7-facts-about-tungsten-carbide-burs-and-how-to-use-them

in your experience would a single or double cut burr work better for steel and what ones to go for (Im looking to buy a couple of individual burrs rather than a set due to cost).

Ive dealt with Enco and they stock Atrax, bueno?

 

[Buckgnarly]

I thought single cuts were used on Al and other soft metals, and double on steel?

 

[Harrison2]

I thought single cuts were used on Al and other soft metals, and double on steel?

exactly, hence me wanting some more advice, Id hate to drop $15-20 on a burr and burn it up first time

 

[Hammer1963]

I prefer single cut burrs on steel. Double cut are more difficult to control. That being said, I use both. Your best bet for removing spot welds is a ball type burr. Either single or double will work. The single cut will create some rather large and extremely sharp shards, so wear a good pair of gloves, eye protection and a long sleeve shirt

 

[Hammer1963]

exactly, hence me wanting some more advice, Id hate to drop $15-20 on a burr and burn it up first time

Non ferrous and ferrous burrs are totally different. Non ferrous will have less flutes than a ferrous single cut.

 

[Techie1961]

I have spent more hours that I care to remember with carbide burrs. Get a 1/4" ball nose double cut with 1/4" shaft. Spend money on a good one as there is a huge difference between the cheap ones and the good ones. Also, use safety glasses and a shield. I have had a few slivers removed from my eyes over the years even with glasses and a full face shield on. The air from the die grinder and the general nature of the cuttings seem to love eyes and they are sharp.

 

[619DioFan]

I bought the 8 piece burr set from astro pneumatic. these are double cut. nice variety of shapes and sizes. set was 50.00 on amazon. after 2 years of use they still work great. for me this was the best value.

 

[Kevin54]

Just a little tip, when using a burr or a file, keep a large piece of chalk around. Load up the burr of the file with chalk and it will keep either one from loading up with the parent material

 

[sawbuck]

how about using a spot weld drill bit ?

 

[rsanter]

Using a solid carbide 3/8 single or double cut has been my go to method for years.
Can't tell you how many times I have posted that they are better than a spot weld drill.

Bob

 

[the gypsy]

I will be following this thread closely as I have no experience with Carbide Burs and I acquired some this autumn when I bought a used die grinder.

 

[Ign]

Ive dealt with Enco and they stock Atrax, bueno?

I like 'em. As for single or double cut, I use whatever but single will walk in one direction while double is a bit more balanced for lack of a better description.

 

[Harrison2]

thanks for the inputs.

Had planned on going for either ball or cylinder with ball tip, and think il try double cut based on experiences with saw blades and TPI.

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

Just a little tip, when using a burr or a file, keep a large piece of chalk around. Load up the burr of the file with chalk and it will keep either one from loading up with the parent material

That's an awesome tip, thank you for that. You learn something new everyday

 

[Harrison2]

Enco wasn't cooperating so I turned to ebay and bought these two, figured a single and double cut I will see what works more effectively.

Seem to be made by Grobet USA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271589166349?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251641081232?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

the pair was under $18 delivered, after searching the Grobet sku it seems they are around $15-18 a piece plus the shipping.

 

[rlitman]

Also, use safety glasses and a shield. I have had a few slivers removed from my eyes over the years even with glasses and a full face shield on. The air from the die grinder and the general nature of the cuttings seem to love eyes and they are sharp.

PLEASE KEEP THIS IN MIND.

Also, the burr will throw these slivers everywhere. The worst is when they get in your hair, and then fall on your face when you remove the shield.
They're incredibly sharp, stick into clothing like velcro barbs, and make nasty splinters.

 

[gungatim]

not sure why you wouldn't just use a spotweld drill. it is designed to cut the outer panel but leave the inner panel intact, just as you require. much easier than trying to grind with a burr.

 

[Techie1961]

not sure why you wouldn't just use a spotweld drill. it is designed to cut the outer panel but leave the inner panel intact, just as you require. much easier than trying to grind with a burr.

I think a spot weld drill will make a hole in the inner panel won't it. There is a pilot if these are the ones that I am used to.

Regarding cylindrical ball nose and spherical types. The cylindrical is great as a multi-purpose bit where the spherical is great for pocketing and really fast metal removal. For some reason, there is nothing like a spherical for digging in hard and fast.

 

[gungatim]

no, the pilot is a hardened pin that sticks in the outer panel and retracts as you cut the spot weld. it doesn't drill all the way through. at least on all the ones I have and have used...

 

[rlitman]

no, the pilot is a hardened pin that sticks in the outer panel and retracts as you cut the spot weld. it doesn't drill all the way through. at least on all the ones I have and have used...

Yep. It's a spring loaded point that is just there to keep the cutter from wandering as you start.

Regarding cylindrical ball nose and spherical types. The cylindrical is great as a multi-purpose bit where the spherical is great for pocketing and really fast metal removal. For some reason, there is nothing like a spherical for digging in hard and fast.

I think if I were doing this with a burr, I'd reach for the ball tip. It sits a little closer to the collet than my cylinder with ball tips. If I needed a smaller nose, I'd use a tree shape.
Day to day, I use the flame shape more than anything else.

 

[CobraRed]

A 1/2x18" air belt sander with a coarse belt works great for removing spot welds.

 

[Harrison2]

A 1/2x18" air belt sander with a coarse belt works great for removing spot welds.

yeah that would have been my first call but I dont have one to hand at the minute.

and said welds are inside a frame where you cannot get a drill in there.